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Indoor-Outdoor Lockdown Grade Inflation. (Read 28148 times)

ali k

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The fucking state of this. "Losing My Edge 7C"  :???: :lol: :lol: :lol: :wall: :'(

That's classic. Are we also in a post-truth world with grades? If you just write 7C in the video enough times then it has to be 7C.

webbo

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Is she stood on the ground in the second one after the first move.

Bonjoy

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The fucking state of this. "Losing My Edge 7C"  :???: :lol: :lol: :lol: :wall: :'(




If you're going to do that, just start matched on the arete and call it Losing My Edge Left-Hand and stop kidding yourself and the credulous punters who might watch your videos.

(It's all Dan's fault really for not taking the most obvious line and recording the harder version as an alternative with specific rules  :))
Priceless. This is exactly what I'm talking about. You don't state the rules, someone comes and climbs a blendy illogical bastard version (and takes the grade). There is no bounded and logical line up the RHS of that arete without a rule. It looks like the original is a good eliminate, the no rules version looks highly unsatisfactory.

Bonjoy

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Only just spotted the second climb on the vid  :jaw: . This is a spoof video though right!?

36chambers

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Is she stood on the ground in the second one after the first move.

Pretty much. I'm pretty certain the RH jug she has at that point was completely hidden by moss when the problem was first conceived. So you'd end up leaning off the plinth(/floor) rather than rocking onto it. Since the discovery of the jug it's become a very popular problem for aspiring 7A+ climbers.

Liamhutch89

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PS – Liamhutch89 – I had a look at your UKC wishlist. It includes plenty of probs with rules about start positions and some with excluded hold rules.

Ok, so 'without a single eliminate' was just conjecture and has been proven false. :sorry:

My point was that there's a whole world out there to explore and, personally, as (a) I only get outside once a fortnight or so, (b) I have the luxury of a car, (c) I almost always climb alone so can go where I want, and (d) it's at least 30 minutes drive to climb anywhere anyway, it's clear why gritty shaker makes more sense than demon wall roof only using back 3 with 1 shoe on.

I've indulged in extensions that suit me in the past, i'll even admit that they were fun! (e.g. everything on the Drey block). I also enjoyed feeling like i'd achieved lots of big ticks (for me) in quick succession. But generally, my rate of progress/success is glacial, so by the time i'd finished with the keel, for example, I never wanted to look at the boulder again no matter how good the climbing on keelhaul looks!

However, if I lived in Otley and had no kids i'd probably join the party under DWR!

I just had a quick review of the first page of my UKC wish list, which admittedly I hadn't used in a while until this week to save the recommended problems from this weeks power club. Only 2 out of the 25 problems are at crags which i've already visited. I guess that's the point I wanted to make. YMMV depending on location, circumstances, etc. 

Bradders

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The fucking state of this. "Losing My Edge 7C"  :???: :lol: :lol: :lol: :wall: :'(




If you're going to do that, just start matched on the arete and call it Losing My Edge Left-Hand and stop kidding yourself and the credulous punters who might watch your videos.

(It's all Dan's fault really for not taking the most obvious line and recording the harder version as an alternative with specific rules  :))

Unreal.

Complete with thoughtful consideration of the problem and beta, including him saying the original method "just feels way too physical for me"...yeah, because that way isn't 7C!!

But yes it is all Dan's fault, I lost a huge amount of skin doing it his big grades for bad beta way  :lol:

Bradders

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demon wall roof only using back 3 with 1 shoe on.

Ooh challenge accepted  ;D

36chambers

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... than demon wall roof only using back 3 with 1 shoe on.

Good vision, I'm going to give this one a bash next time I'm there ;D

36chambers

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Will Hunt

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The fucking state of this. "Losing My Edge 7C"  :???: :lol: :lol: :lol: :wall: :'(

That's classic. Are we also in a post-truth world with grades? If you just write 7C in the video enough times then it has to be 7C.


EEEEEERRRRRRRRMMAAAAAAAAAAGEEEEEEEEEERRRDDDD! Have you fucking people only just realised this is happening? You're so deeply rammed into Fiend's arse that you believe the whole shtick about "Will Hunt proposes downgrades for everything". Wrong. Will Hunt proposes downgrades where they're needed because the sequence has changed since the FA, or it's patently piss.

Have a look for people still claiming 7C+ for Heaven In Your Hands (probably 7C with the face-crimp and now even easier with the undercut bump beta - it's not harder than Layby Arete).

Have a look at how everyone is doing Whaleback now (another problem ruined, but tbf a hold did break which rendered it very much more difficult).

Plenty of people still putting 7A on videos of Karjala and Longbow. It makes me sick.

The Tripel Effect is the biggest load of shit and should be struck from the record.

Liamhutch89

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I've met the lad doing losing my edge at the depot a few times and he's a nice guy so i'll stick up for him - at about 6'6 i'm not surprised he finds certain sequences hard, despite being pretty strong!

spidermonkey09

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I've met the lad doing losing my edge at the depot a few times and he's a nice guy so i'll stick up for him - at about 6'6 i'm not surprised he finds certain sequences hard, despite being pretty strong!

He is a nice lad but tiny violin alert for a tall man on gritstone! No sympathy here  :boohoo:

Bradders

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... than demon wall roof only using back 3 with 1 shoe on.

Good vision, I'm going to give this one a bash next time I'm there ;D

Race you to the FA!!!

teestub

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demon wall roof only using back 3 with 1 shoe on.

Ooh challenge accepted  ;D

... than demon wall roof only using back 3 with 1 shoe on.

Good vision, I'm going to give this one a bash next time I'm there ;D

Let’s get an evening sesh booked in when we are allowed and the pub is open.

Liam, most of my cliff eliminate climbing these days is for warming up or circuiting, but I’ve previously been inspired by the historical eliminates there, when I did live in Otley and had no children!

Bradders

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I've met the lad doing losing my edge at the depot a few times and he's a nice guy so i'll stick up for him - at about 6'6 i'm not surprised he finds certain sequences hard, despite being pretty strong!

He is a nice lad but tiny violin alert for a tall man on gritstone! No sympathy here  :boohoo:

Haha yes indeed, especially considering the original sequence suits the taller climber!

He is a nice chap though. So that's something?  ;)

Liamhutch89

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I've met the lad doing losing my edge at the depot a few times and he's a nice guy so i'll stick up for him - at about 6'6 i'm not surprised he finds certain sequences hard, despite being pretty strong!

He is a nice lad but tiny violin alert for a tall man on gritstone! No sympathy here  :boohoo:

It must be nice being at an advantage for every move that doesn't exceed your reach  :tease:

Bonjoy

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PS – Liamhutch89 – I had a look at your UKC wishlist. It includes plenty of probs with rules about start positions and some with excluded hold rules.

Ok, so 'without a single eliminate' was just conjecture and has been proven false. :sorry:

My point was that there's a whole world out there to explore and, personally, as (a) I only get outside once a fortnight or so, (b) I have the luxury of a car, (c) I almost always climb alone so can go where I want, and (d) it's at least 30 minutes drive to climb anywhere anyway, it's clear why gritty shaker makes more sense than demon wall roof only using back 3 with 1 shoe on.

I've indulged in extensions that suit me in the past, i'll even admit that they were fun! (e.g. everything on the Drey block). I also enjoyed feeling like i'd achieved lots of big ticks (for me) in quick succession. But generally, my rate of progress/success is glacial, so by the time i'd finished with the keel, for example, I never wanted to look at the boulder again no matter how good the climbing on keelhaul looks!

However, if I lived in Otley and had no kids i'd probably join the party under DWR!

I just had a quick review of the first page of my UKC wish list, which admittedly I hadn't used in a while until this week to save the recommended problems from this weeks power club. Only 2 out of the 25 problems are at crags which i've already visited. I guess that's the point I wanted to make. YMMV depending on location, circumstances, etc.
Sorry, wasn't having a pop at you. That all makes sense. I was just using you statement to illustrate that eliminate is a vague term that can cover lots of stuff generally considered uneliminate and classic.

Bradders

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The fucking state of this. "Losing My Edge 7C"  :???: :lol: :lol: :lol: :wall: :'(

That's classic. Are we also in a post-truth world with grades? If you just write 7C in the video enough times then it has to be 7C.


EEEEEERRRRRRRRMMAAAAAAAAAAGEEEEEEEEEERRRDDDD! Have you fucking people only just realised this is happening? You're so deeply rammed into Fiend's arse that you believe the whole shtick about "Will Hunt proposes downgrades for everything". Wrong. Will Hunt proposes downgrades where they're needed because the sequence has changed since the FA, or it's patently piss.

Have a look for people still claiming 7C+ for Heaven In Your Hands (probably 7C with the face-crimp and now even easier with the undercut bump beta - it's not harder than Layby Arete).

Have a look at how everyone is doing Whaleback now (another problem ruined, but tbf a hold did break which rendered it very much more difficult).

Plenty of people still putting 7A on videos of Karjala and Longbow. It makes me sick.

The Tripel Effect is the biggest load of shit and should be struck from the record.

The most concerning thing about this thread is that I feel I'm finally coming round to your way of thinking. Especially given that I'm now 14 sessions deep into Ben's Groove Sit, yet did HIYH in a session 4 years ago, which I suppose means they're not the same grade  :(

The problem with that is it would mean Red Baron Roof has to come down to 7C....what to do  :-\ ;D

Bonjoy

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The Tripel Effect is the biggest load of shit and should be struck from the record.
Ooooh I see. I though this was an outrageous bending of the rules (on the world's easiest 7c) Ripple Effect!

Will Hunt

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I'm sure all the usual suspects (we know who they are) are lovely people. It doesn't mean that they're not letting their egos fuck up certain problems. Not wanting to single out the Losing My Edge bloke (who I'm sure is very nice), but just to use this as an example (and it applies to many climbers nowadays unfortunately), anybody who climbs it like that and claims it's 7C is either:
a) completely deluded about what 7C feels like;
b) completely deluded as to their own ability (surely a delusion that would be easily shattered by trying literally any benchmark 7C);
c) conscious of the fact that the problem is not 7C but choosing to "take the grade" anyway - in the self-policed sport of climbing this is, to my mind, cheating.


Btw Bradders, someone I know saw your Instagram story of Ben's Sit and said you had shit beta.

Liamhutch89

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The most concerning thing about this thread is that I feel I'm finally coming round to your way of thinking. Especially given that I'm now 14 sessions deep into Ben's Groove Sit, yet did HIYH in a session 4 years ago, which I suppose means they're not the same grade  :(

The problem with that is it would mean Red Baron Roof has to come down to 7C....what to do  :-\ ;D

I thoroughly enjoy coming across the downgrades on here and UKC logbooks from Will and others, mainly at the thought of how many people are raging. I even got trolled myself when I went to do the Grouch armed with the knowledge that it was actually 6C. I was definitely going to flash it, 6C and in my style, but there I was about 8 tries later using knees, elbows and everything to turn the lip... It's 7A, the same grade as ringpiece.

Bradders

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Btw Bradders, someone I know saw your Instagram story of Ben's Sit and said you had shit beta.

Tell me more....

remus

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Not wanting to single out the Losing My Edge bloke (who I'm sure is very nice), but just to use this as an example (and it applies to many climbers nowadays unfortunately), anybody who climbs it like that and claims it's 7C is either:
a) completely deluded about what 7C feels like;
b) completely deluded as to their own ability (surely a delusion that would be easily shattered by trying literally any benchmark 7C);
c) conscious of the fact that the problem is not 7C but choosing to "take the grade" anyway - in the self-policed sport of climbing this is, to my mind, cheating.

Lets not forget that grading is very far from an exact science so I dont think it's surprising that people can end up just taking the grade. To use a recent example, Breakfast at burbage took me 3 sessions and Ben's Roof at Raven tor took me 3 sessions. Both well established problems, 4 grades apart, felt similarly difficult to me. Maybe I should just stop cheating myself and downgrade Ben's to 7A.

Fiend

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To use a recent example, Breakfast at burbage took me 3 sessions and Ben's Roof at Raven tor took me 3 sessions.

 :blink: <---- is the perfect smiley for this.

 

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