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Indoor-Outdoor Lockdown Grade Inflation. (Read 28522 times)

SA Chris

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I'm sure I'm not that only person who pisses around on the easier boulders at Caley, climbing them in as many ways as possible.

Fixed. Agree, it's toss, and belongs here. Part of Will's earlier comment.

Just because you've done an eliminate and it felt satisfying to do, doesn't mean it is worth writing up or even that good. Maybe just about justifiable in a rock starved corner of the country, but not in an established historical area with tons to go at.

Bradders

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Yeah, madness. Is any eliminate a first ascent anyway?  :worms: ;)

cheque

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I spotted this one yesterday, which is just a font 3 done with one less move.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/caley_crags-540/the_stotty-524871


Unchecked by the UKC crag moderator in the two years since it was done. Whoever this “Footwork” guy is needs to pull his finger out.  :lol:

dunnyg

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I love eliminates, growing up with westvale and woodhouse, and now with the calf nearby, the Cameron Duff guides hand drawn eliminaye face topos have provided un-ending psyche. Where to draw the line?

Will Hunt

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They're using Psychi pads. That tells you everything.

36chambers

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I love eliminates, growing up with westvale and woodhouse, and now with the calf nearby, the Cameron Duff guides hand drawn eliminaye face topos have provided un-ending psyche. Where to draw the line?

I draw the line at Crucifix Traverse Loop and Tour de Crucifix.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/almscliff-373/crucifix_traverse_loop-470987
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/almscliff-373/tour_de_crucifix-554402

SA Chris

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I love eliminates, growing up with westvale and woodhouse, and now with the calf nearby, the Cameron Duff guides hand drawn eliminaye face topos have provided un-ending psyche. Where to draw the line?

In a guidebook? problem follows the line, any additional description shouldn't be needed beyond where it starts and ends. I love them too, make up as many eliminates as you like, they are great fun, just don't bother grading each one individually, and don't be naïve enough to assume you are the first to do it and claim it.

SA Chris

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Fiend

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Fucking training links are the next level bullshit. Good call. Anyone who records them should be trawled face first through all the Almscliff cowpats.

Will Hunt

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Ahem.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/yeadon_crag-16854/bounce_by_the_ounce-441296

God only know what he has in mind for the back of the Calf  :o

dunnyg

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That was a 3* line!
Also pots, kettles etc.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/yeadon_crag-16854/power_royale-440607     

Perhaps my deviant up bringing by the ACD guide has mpre serious consequences than first thought...


tomtom

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I once recorded a low level low quality low grade traverse at Conies Dale as a pisstake on PeakBouldering. Only to find that someone else had previously recorded the same low level low quality low grade traverse as a pisstake on PeakBouldering :D

Will Hunt

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That was a 3* line!
Also pots, kettles etc.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/yeadon_crag-16854/power_royale-440607     

Ah but that is the most obvious line on the roof allowing a proper sit at the back, gaining the lip via the obvious rail, which leads into the most obvious finish. Three stars, ultra classic gem. etc etc

36chambers

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I've also noticed that these two sequences now exist on UKC as Crimpy Roof Right Hand and Crimpy Roof, respectively



I originally did Crimpy Roof bumping up high LH intermediates so I was thinking of claiming that as Crimp Roof Left Hand, thoughts and opinions?

Fiend

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So a thread about claiming and over-grading shit eliminates has turned into a great Yorkshire scrittle love-in huh.....






















....can't say I'm at all surprised TBH.


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My logbook wish list is about as long as the bible, without a single eliminate to my knowledge. I've no idea how people find the time or energy to do them!

tomtom

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My logbook wish list is about as long as the bible, without a single eliminate to my knowledge. I've no idea how people find the time or energy to do them!

Well if following the guidelines to only travel "within the same part of your town or city", for some folk that means limited choice of venue - hence the eliminate explosion....

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My logbook wish list is about as long as the bible, without a single eliminate to my knowledge. I've no idea how people find the time or energy to do them!

Well if following the guidelines to only travel "within the same part of your town or city", for some folk that means limited choice of venue - hence the eliminate explosion....

Oops, I just outed myself

dunnyg

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Yeah, almscliff and westvale eliminates were because at various time in my life these were the only rock that was available, typically due to lack transport or crappy weather.

tomtom

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Nothing wrong with em - good fun really. Been done for years... Just maybe a bit OTT recording them as NEW PROBLEMS!!!

(unless they really are mega...)

gollum

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One of my favourite ever sessions was a big (and at the time fairly strong) team of us trying to do eliminates on the eliminates on the Egg, using the garbage edges next to the real edges or pockets instead on the holds themselves. Very entertaining exercise in tunnel vision.

teestub

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Almscliff eliminates on an early summer evening after work, followed by a pint and bar snacks in the Hunters 😍

Bonjoy

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If only it were as simple as eliminates are bad and not worth recording and non eliminates are the true lines and should be the default. What even classes as an eliminate? I challenge anyone to come up with a simple definition which doesn’t end up capturing loads of established classics. Is WSS just a bad sequence on Ronside Force-it? T-crack is shit without the rules. Trackside is just a bad sequence on Sidetrack. Gorilla Warfare eliminates a huge footblock at the end. The list is long.
Many many problems have rules, some are just so obvious that you forget they exist (e.g. the footblock on Gorilla Warfare). The problem is, when you do a new problem you have the choice of either stating the obvious rules vis-à-vis start positions and excluded footblocks etc, or have 2nd ascent hungry punters milking the absence of rules and climbing some shitty bastardised version of the problem which often climbs badly, has no bounding logic, and is wrong at the given grade. I swear if GW was put up as a new problem today some idiot would post up a vid of themselves doing it with a 10 minute rest on the block midway. Much better to be less damning of eliminates and accept that many bits of rock require rules of one sort or another in order for them to have fun, meaningful (everything’s relative obvs) climbs up them.
Clearly there is a line beyond which rules become counter productive and clearly this is crossed a lot, but I think bouldering is also blighted by people trying to pretend things are purer than they are and then getting upset when someone breaks one the problems multiple unstated rules. Rules are a boulderer’s friend, they increase the number of viable/fun climbs available and they mean everyone is roughly talking about the same challenge when they refer to a problem. Too many, not enough, unstated, or ill conceived rules are the true enemy.

PS – Liamhutch89 – I had a look at your UKC wishlist. It includes plenty of probs with rules about start positions and some with excluded hold rules.

Will Hunt

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I think this is the appropriate time to say that if you're reading this and you've uploaded a video, or otherwise "ticked" the problem, of yourself doing Losing My Edge using the method where you go straight out to match the arete and then womble up it at about 6A, then I think you are absolute sub-human scum.

The same goes for anybody who has started, or intends to start, Titfield Thunderbolt using anything but the lowest two crimps on the curving rail thing. I've seen people trying this problem off three stacked pads so they can pull on from finger-jugs. It's embarrassing to see.

Will Hunt

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The fucking state of this. "Losing My Edge 7C"  :???: :lol: :lol: :lol: :wall: :'(




If you're going to do that, just start matched on the arete and call it Losing My Edge Left-Hand and stop kidding yourself and the credulous punters who might watch your videos.

(It's all Dan's fault really for not taking the most obvious line and recording the harder version as an alternative with specific rules  :))

 

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