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[Yorkshire] [Shipley Glen] [6B-7A?] Two slopey mantels (Read 5167 times)

PeteHukb

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Have done a couple of undescribed (that I can find) problems on a block at the pub end, between the Green Traverse and Black Roof - straight downhill from the easy short kids' slabs.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/shipley_glen-1343/shipley_slopey_slidey-619226
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/shipley_glen-1343/coiled_spring-575098
There's a couple of easier aretes on either side of these two too.

The left-hand line could well be 7Aish but basically a single move mantel so who knows. If your enthusiasm doesn't stretch to checking it out, perhaps you can point me to some other Yorkshire problems where the mantel is the crux, for benchmarking? Surely we need a graded list of Yorkshire mantels anyway?

Pete

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Pair In A Cubicle V6, Brimham ..."like an epileptic seal on a belt sander"

Liamhutch89

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perhaps you can point me to some other Yorkshire problems where the mantel is the crux, for benchmarking? Surely we need a graded list of Yorkshire mantels anyway?

Jim's Problem at Brimham appears to be a 7C+ mantle! I'm keen to lose some skin on it.

moose

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Pair In A Cubicle V6, Brimham ..."like an epileptic seal on a belt sander"

I vaguely recall PIAC being one of my first V6s - amenable to crimping tiny ripples and scrabbling, beached whale style. That suggests to me that it isn't a true, hard mantel.  Due to extreme leg-length, I'm  incapable of even the easiest "pure" / obligatory mantels.

Will Hunt

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Pair In A Cubicle V6, Brimham ..."like an epileptic seal on a belt sander"

I vaguely recall PIAC being one of my first V6s - amenable to crimping tiny ripples and scrabbling, beached whale style. That suggests to me that it isn't a true, hard mantel.

 :agree:

I'm not a good manteler and I flashed this. Find a ripple and hoy a leg over the top.

PeteHukb

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Hmm, did PIAC too long ago to be useful, but maybe I should warm up on it en route to Jim's Problem - ta!

Closest nearby comparisons I've done recently were The Mantle and Iain's Mantle, both 6C at Baildon Bank. Both excellent, both easier than the new problem.

Will Hunt

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I accept the challenge of attempting to repeat these noble grinds. I will report back.

dunnyg

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The mantle on the anchor at brimham is a good grovel benchmark?
PiC is a good grind, as is the slightly harder version next door, but both do have holds.

r-man

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Just googled some vids. Is this the eponymous Jim, and are these the original problem names?

https://vimeo.com/user100086669

Bradders

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Suspect so, good find Robin!

PeteHukb

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I accept the challenge of attempting to repeat these noble grinds. I will report back.
I knew you'd be up for it Will. Let me know if the UKC descriptions aren't clear - they're certainly long...

Fiend

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Closest nearby comparisons I've done recently were The Mantle and Iain's Mantle, both 6C at Baildon Bank. Both excellent, both easier than the new problem.
The one above the steps? Gulp. Fall off that and you'll end up in Bradford.

P.S. I didn't flash PIAC but I did have to take my shirt off in mid-winter to get maximum slug-wobble belly-friction.

webbo

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I’m pretty sure I used a couple of jams on pair in a cubicle.

PeteHukb

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Iain's Mantle
The one above the steps? Gulp. Fall off that and you'll end up in Bradford.
That's what makes it so good! It's not hard but it's spicy as anything. The other problems on that block are decent, and Refuse to Mambo next door is a great 7A that deserves more traffic.

36chambers

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There's Crazy Mantel (half way along Slopey Traverse) at Almscliff which looks reasonably similar.

Unfortunately, it's a bit up in the air with regards to what grade it gets and what's in.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/almscliff-373/crazy_mantel-243728


tommytwotone

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Obviously Bob's Bastard etc at Caley...

Will Hunt

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Rocky Horror at Yeadon is quite like Bob's Bastard but harder and is in at 6C+.

jamesturnbull97

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Rocky Horror at Yeadon is quite like Bob's Bastard but harder and is in at 6C+.
After you've done the mantles on the Rocky Horror block carry on the cow close to go give your ego a real kicking on the various Hell's Mantle problems.

BeardWill

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I've done the right hand problem before, well two problems right of the tree, one easy directly above the footblock and another right again pulling on LH undercut/sidepull RH sidepull pinch and slap to the slopers. I broke the intermediate crimp off you could use for the RH repeating this the other day.

here are a bunch of other bad lowball lip traverse/mantels around and about if that's your thing.

PeteHukb

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I've done the right hand problem before, well two problems right of the tree, one easy directly above the footblock and another right again pulling on LH undercut/sidepull RH sidepull pinch and slap to the slopers. I broke the intermediate crimp off you could use for the RH repeating this the other day.

Ah, I knew this block would turn out to be Yorkshire's newest mossy hot-spot! Yeah the first one right of the tree (low start off the footblock) is the easier of the two I'm talking about.

The other one you're talking about - presume the right hand arete is out?

Quote

here are a bunch of other bad lowball lip traverse/mantels around and about if that's your thing.
It seems to be...

BeardWill

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Yeah the arete is out, crux is pulling on and getting stood up over the LH undercut. To be honest not sure if it's a different problem to what you've done or not.

Will Hunt

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Called in at lunchtime and met Pete who showed me the sights.

First impressions were very good. The leafy setting, the architecture of the rock. I can't believe I'm saying this but the word that sprung to my mind was "Font".

There are a few different ways you can cut the block up into different climbs but this is what felt natural to me, and what I thought gets most value out of the rock.

Left hand side:


Right hand side:


On the left you could do something with the left arete. Maybe it would work from sitting also?

Pete's problem Shipley Slopey Side hangs the lip and mantels it out without the arete. It doesn't feel illogical - since you face to the right the arete is out of sight and out of mind. It's remarkably pure - there's a lone pebble up on the slab but the easiest beta keeps hands on the lip. I don't think I would have managed it if Pete hadn't demonstrated the beta. Font 6C+ (mantel) feels bang on.

Right of the tree I thought there were two lines. Each of these is slightly compromised in quality by being a little too short for a stand start which doesn't just start with hands on the lip, and by having sit starts that are the foul type where getting your arse the first inch off the ground is disproportionately hard compared to the rest of it. I did manage the left hand sit-start but then fell off the top and when I came to pull back on I realised that the crucial left-foot pebble foothold had blown - so the true sit to this is now much harder and I didn't put much effort into trying to make it work. So with that in mind I would posit that well described low starts are probably the way to get the best out of the block - creating the most balanced problems.

So to the left, there is what Pete has named Coiled Spring. I started left hand in the groove next to the tree, right hand in the low undercut. Really nice climbing on this. It felt about 6B+ with the sit start as it was with the pebble. It's probably 6A+ with the low start.
Viddy here: https://www.instagram.com/p/CMCtUtxDr_S/

To the right is another problem (have you got a name for this, Will? What grade did you think for the full sit?). Start sitting with right hand on a low, poor dish-crimp on the rib and left hand in an obvious undercut. Pull on stiffly and slap to the crimp that's been left where the broken flake was. This feels like it might be low to mid 7s, however it's much easier to start with your hands on the same holds but from a standing position - i.e. the crux on the sit is graunching off the floor - not my cup of tea. I ended up starting this with my right hand on the broken flake and left hand in the low undercut. It gets interesting going over the top. Maybe 6B for this one? The right arete of the block is out.

The right arete of the block would make a nice easy problem.

Here's Pete demonstrating Shipley Slopey Side:



It's a real shame that the tree is so close to the block. The groove line would be a good thing to do and there would be ample scope for lip traverses and link ups ad infinitum.

PeteHukb

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Thanks to Will for popping by and confirming my impressions there's a few worthwhile problems here for locals!

And thanks to everyone else for generating a nice list of mantels to work through...

BeardWill

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It's hard to grade because the crux is pulling off the floor, maybe 6c/7a mark. It feels impossible until it works *shrug*

tommytwotone

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Had a trip over to check these out today. Can't really comment re: grade or quality as I didn't get very far, but blimey the rock is sharp.

I have an all day pass tomorrow so decided against ragging my skin in advance.

Got the start of Coiled Spring sorted and got hands up on top. I'm assuming it's a grim grovel from there!

PeteHukb

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Once you've got your hands on top, shuffle them around until you can throw a heel up, then just continue irreversibly upwards  ;D

 

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