i'm keen to try some highball boulders
My question to those who've done it: how much faff is it in practice?
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on March 03, 2021, 04:07:53 pmi'm keen to try some highball bouldersWhich ones? I enjoy highball rock scrambling and could possibly join you?
Quote from: Will Hunt on March 03, 2021, 04:52:31 pmQuote from: Liamhutch89 on March 03, 2021, 04:07:53 pmi'm keen to try some highball bouldersWhich ones? I enjoy highball rock scrambling and could possibly join you?There's plenty that have caught my eye: cindy crawford, tender homecoming, strangeness, etc.
Basically, for working individual moves, short sections, or cleaning stuff I used a gri-gri abseiling in from above. Trying a route from bottom to top that I had semi-dialled I used a micro traxion (dangerously).
Quote from: ali k on March 03, 2021, 05:27:36 pmBasically, for working individual moves, short sections, or cleaning stuff I used a gri-gri abseiling in from above. Trying a route from bottom to top that I had semi-dialled I used a micro traxion (dangerously).This. Working something on a gri gri generally easy and less faff than setting up a normal toppers. Worth using rope protectors and ropes you're not bothered about trashing. I use cut down bits of old sport rope for working grit/shorter stuff.
Descending on a MT
Quote from: ali k on March 03, 2021, 05:27:36 pmBasically, for working individual moves, short sections, or cleaning stuff I used a gri-gri abseiling in from above. This. Working something on a gri gri generally easy and less faff than setting up a normal toppers. Worth using rope protectors and ropes you're not bothered about trashing. I use cut down bits of old sport rope for working grit/shorter stuff.
Basically, for working individual moves, short sections, or cleaning stuff I used a gri-gri abseiling in from above.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on March 03, 2021, 04:07:53 pmMy question to those who've done it: how much faff is it in practice?I've done a fair bit over the years, but mostly working longer trad projects. My take on it would be that trying hard stuff at your limit would be best just on a gri-gri dropping in from the top, with a knot tied below you when you pull on (and with rope protectors at the top) as per TB. But doing anything more than a move or two is a ballache as the rope doesn't really move through the gri-gri unless you can take a hand off to pull it.For longer easier stuff I always used a micro traxion as the rope runs through it without needing to touch it but you wouldn't want to take a fall on a micro traxion too often or work stuff on it.Basically, for working individual moves, short sections, or cleaning stuff I used a gri-gri abseiling in from above. Trying a route from bottom to top that I had semi-dialled I used a micro traxion (dangerously).
Quote from: ali k on March 03, 2021, 05:27:36 pmTrying a route from bottom to top I used a micro traxion (dangerously).Ali, interested to know why you think the MT is dangerous. Just the way you were using it? Or fear of the teeth shredding your rope? I've used one loads for working stuff, and whilst properly taking falls takes a bit of getting used to, I was merrily lobbing off multiple times on walk of life, and felt fairly happy.
Trying a route from bottom to top I used a micro traxion (dangerously).
Paranoid about the teeth shredding the sheath ..... mainly cos the little catch that fully opens the cam could get knocked and then you’d be sliding all the way to the bottom
Quite specific gear sizes there Dan!
Nice demonstration of a gri gri working well herehttps://www.instagram.com/p/CHYCn9_D7tP/?igshid=rh973tzd1r8b
I like a shunt for the start of a project/hard moves/ short route. You can go up and down easier than on a micro traxion. Descending on a MT feels horribly sketch. I've never got that on board with the gri gri train. Great for abseiling and trying moves if you're just inspecting stuff, but very bad for the elbow tendonitis trying to move upwards. For anything less than 15m a shunt is ideal (although this isn't how they're meant to be used).
Shunt/Grigri/MT Pro's and con's (just my opinion, JB and Bonjoy will have a better idea)Shunt: kind to the rope, pays out smoothly if rope is tensioned. Grab it and you're fucked, potentially the same if the cam arm hits you or the rock. Hit a backup knot at speed and it will open up and release pretty easily.Grigri: kind to rope, bit of a bastard to pay out rope. Harder to defeat mechanism than shunt.MT: best movement, looks scary but much less likely to develop slack so is probably the safest. Cam release is double movement so very unlikely to happen by accident.Also, learn to transition, then you can pretend you are a cool caver type rather than a boring climber with no real clue.
Always put a knot in. A device might break hitting a knot but my money would be on it not.