[SA Chris]

Can Niad refert to anything other than the Nose in a day?

[remus]

Can Niad refert to anything other than the Nose in a day?

I like to think they're using the opportunity to raise the profile of National Iguana Awareness Day (8th september, add it to your diary).

[Teaboy]

I remember buying my first pair of Pinks, and the guy in the climbing shop saying if you wear them people will "expect more of you".

Before these were properly available in the UK a pair found their way to Cotswold Betws y Coed for us to test (I was working there) as it was the branch where most climbers worked. As they fitted me it was my job to report back to the purchasers in head office. I told them they looked shit and climbed shit (an opinion I stand by) and that they would not sell, so we didn’t so I was surprised to see them on virtually every climbing magazine cover for the next ten years!

It’s that sort of foresight that has stopped me from contributing to the buy the dip thread.

[SA Chris]

I'm pretty sure that's where I got my pair! I remember they split along the heel cup, which was standard and everyone's did that. I also remember doing Sacre Couer at Blackchurch the week after I bought them and my toes being in agony.

[SA Chris]

If the name was the issue, unless it's old stock, they seem to be keeping the Velcro version, although bizarrely they seem to have stopped using the word "Velcro" (which I think is actually a brand) and called it a "hook and loop".

https://www.adidas.co.uk/five-ten-anasazi-hook-and-loop-climbing-shoes/BC0871.html

Looks like they are adopting VCS for any shoes employing the "hook and loop" system now.

[cheque]

They’ve used VCS instead of Velcro in the name for more than a decade now. It predates Adidas.

Those are reduced so it’s pretty safe to assume they are old stock.

[SA Chris]

Fair enough using VCS, but actually calling it loop and hook in advertising is a bit strange, assume it's because they don't use genuine Velcro ^tm.

Other climbing shoes use "Velcro" in the name, so presumably they do?

[cheque]

Yeah I think Velcro’s like “Hoover” and “Tannoy” isn’t it? A brand name used as a generic term colloquially.

Miura Velcroes are called Miura VS on the Sportiva website. They also use the term hook & loop further down.

Looks like Scarpa have the real thing though despite just having V in the shoe names. Unparallel too.

[Johnny Brown]

As I struggle to break in my Anasazi pros I'm increasingly thinking shit build quality was a feature not a bug.

[seankenny]

It's only this last year that I mustered the self-assurance to buy a pair of Solutions.  They were the first shoe to break the £100 barrier, at a time when the next most expensive shoe was probably less than £90.  For years, I felt I'd be too embarrassed by my unworthiness to wear them in public (like a park runner in a pair of Nike Alphaflys).

Ha, no such self deprecation at the wall these days. Strong but unsubtle 20-something gets keen > upgrades from hire shoes > thrashes Tarantulas to death > finds a bit of technique and onto Dragos or similar

So true! Back when the walls were open, Furias / Dragos worn with thick, white socks were de rigour for muscular novices.

Swear I saw a club flyer for a night called Muscular Novice.

[cheque]

Fred Nicole talks a starstruck Rob G through the NIAD range. Apparently the toe shape hasn’t changed. Hard to know whether than means the Velcros & lace-ups still have a different toe shape to the Moccs or if they’ve all been unified into one or the other. He also describes Moccs as “working quite well for all types of bouldering”  The lace-ups are apparently “slightly softer than they used to be”.