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Shoes with heels that aren't shit. (Read 9740 times)

MischaHY

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#25 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 09:16:04 am
I recommend these to everybody but you could try the Womens LV Miuras, either lace up or velcro? The mens miura heel was baggy for me but these are perfect.

This was on the agenda but now Kataki seems to be the superior choice as it's got similar stiffness and precision but the heel fits perfectly. If only it had toe rubber... That's basically what I want really - Kataki stiffness with a decent toepatch for hooking. Oh, and a little bit wider. 1st world problems.

MischaHY

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#26 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 09:20:59 am
I mainly climb in Solutions and find the heels good, but when I need a really good heel I use LS Genius - give them a try?

Blows my mind when people recommend the heel on the Genius. It's just a big thick blob of plastic!

Goes to show how subjective this issue is.  I really dislike the Solution heel - to me, they are a massive insensate lump of rubber. I prefer the heels of LS Pythons and Miura VSs - despite having areas of exposed leather, with no rubber, I find them grippier, as I can conform them more to the hold.

Yeah this is exactly the thing as a heel that conforms for me just folds away. This means soft shoes feel awesome on the front but crap on the back. I accidentally turned up to my boulder project with the wrong pair of shoes the other day and literally couldn't do a move I normally use to warm up on because the shoes were folding off the hold whilst staying fully on the foot! It's madness but the way forward does seem to be hard heels for me at least.

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#27 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 09:22:23 am

This was on the agenda but now Kataki seems to be the superior choice as it's got similar stiffness and precision but the heel fits perfectly. If only it had toe rubber... That's basically what I want really - Kataki stiffness with a decent toepatch for hooking. Oh, and a little bit wider. 1st world problems.

Yeah, the LV Miura's are quite narrow as well. I found the Katakis too wide.

That feels like a pretty niche requirement; can't be very often you need to stand on a stiff rubber dependent 10p edge and then toehook before needing a precision heelhook!  :lol:

More generally it doesn't surprise me that toe rubber tends to come only on the softer shoes, given its more of a bouldering requirement and bouldering generally doesn't need super stiff edging shoes.

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#28 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 09:33:06 am
Bit of a left-field suggestion, but could you make some sort of heel insert that'd fit inside the shoe to fill out the dead space? Combined with something that already has a stiff heel it might help stop the heel scrunching up without having to downsize too aggressively.


Ooh, now we're getting technical 🤓Any thoughts on what might be a suitable material?

Butchering an insole might work if you could find something stiff enough. Maybe a piece of a tupperware box? Or some sort of molded fiberglass kinda thing? Dont blame me if it cracks and you get a foot full of glass though  :lol:

MischaHY

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#29 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 09:49:42 am

This was on the agenda but now Kataki seems to be the superior choice as it's got similar stiffness and precision but the heel fits perfectly. If only it had toe rubber... That's basically what I want really - Kataki stiffness with a decent toepatch for hooking. Oh, and a little bit wider. 1st world problems.

Yeah, the LV Miura's are quite narrow as well. I found the Katakis too wide.

That feels like a pretty niche requirement; can't be very often you need to stand on a stiff rubber dependent 10p edge and then toehook before needing a precision heelhook!  :lol:

More generally it doesn't surprise me that toe rubber tends to come only on the softer shoes, given its more of a bouldering requirement and bouldering generally doesn't need super stiff edging shoes.

I must be really weird because I find myself toehooking on vert routes quite often, usually to help add body tension on directional holds or control rotation. I get your point - that combination is not so important in the majority of scenarios but I do have a lime boulder project at the moment that needs all 3 (although not pure dime edge capacity, just instinct level stiffness)   ;D

It's an overhanging rising traverse with 14 moves, very small crimps and footholds, one crucial toehook and two tiny spike heelhooks where you really need to drive weight through the heel. It's actually what got me so picky about all this in the first place 😂

Here's a video:

m.cooke.1421

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#30 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 09:51:54 am
Bit of a left-field suggestion, but could you make some sort of heel insert that'd fit inside the shoe to fill out the dead space? Combined with something that already has a stiff heel it might help stop the heel scrunching up without having to downsize too aggressively.


Ooh, now we're getting technical 🤓Any thoughts on what might be a suitable material?

Butchering an insole might work if you could find something stiff enough. Maybe a piece of a tupperware box? Or some sort of molded fiberglass kinda thing? Dont blame me if it cracks and you get a foot full of glass though  :lol:

How about a blister plaster stuck to the inside of your shoe?

MischaHY

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#31 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 09:56:51 am
Bit of a left-field suggestion, but could you make some sort of heel insert that'd fit inside the shoe to fill out the dead space? Combined with something that already has a stiff heel it might help stop the heel scrunching up without having to downsize too aggressively.


Ooh, now we're getting technical 🤓Any thoughts on what might be a suitable material?

Butchering an insole might work if you could find something stiff enough. Maybe a piece of a tupperware box? Or some sort of molded fiberglass kinda thing? Dont blame me if it cracks and you get a foot full of glass though  :lol:

How about a blister plaster stuck to the inside of your shoe?

Cheap, removable and malleable... I like it!! Will genuinely give this a go.

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#32 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 10:00:35 am
I recently bought some Boreal Ninjas for using on the board, they fit my wide forefoot and have a moulded heel similar to Solutions. Obviously too soft if you want an edging shoe, but the Dharmas might be a stiffer option (not sure if they're the same last but they're supposed to be wide fitting and the heel is the same)?

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#33 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 10:40:25 am
Cheap, removable and malleable... I like it!! Will genuinely give this a go.

Accept that if you use Compeed it might be there a while! The surface of these things are very slippery though, might be worth a strip of finger tape over the top. Could stack two, but if you start adding enough to reach the thickness of a book then it's regarded as aid.

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#34 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 10:45:37 am
I mainly climb in Solutions and find the heels good, but when I need a really good heel I use LS Genius - give them a try?

Blows my mind when people recommend the heel on the Genius. It's just a big thick blob of plastic!

Goes to show how subjective this issue is.  I really dislike the Solution heel - to me, they are a massive insensate lump of rubber. I prefer the heels of LS Pythons and Miura VSs - despite having areas of exposed leather, with no rubber, I find them grippier, as I can conform them more to the hold.

Yeah this is exactly the thing as a heel that conforms for me just folds away. This means soft shoes feel awesome on the front but crap on the back. I accidentally turned up to my boulder project with the wrong pair of shoes the other day and literally couldn't do a move I normally use to warm up on because the shoes were folding off the hold whilst staying fully on the foot! It's madness but the way forward does seem to be hard heels for me at least.

Ha, again, bizarre given that my go-to shoes for really difficult heel hooks are a baggy old pair of 5.10 (proper 5.10 not Adidas) Pinks. I find the heel works so well on those because it folds / molds to the rock.

MischaHY

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#35 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 10:46:34 am
Cheap, removable and malleable... I like it!! Will genuinely give this a go.

Accept that if you use Compeed it might be there a while! The surface of these things are very slippery though, might be worth a strip of finger tape over the top. Could stack two, but if you start adding enough to reach the thickness of a book then it's regarded as aid.

Can't risk being accused of aid... That's only allowed in Font.

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#36 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 11:38:12 am

This was on the agenda but now Kataki seems to be the superior choice as it's got similar stiffness and precision but the heel fits perfectly. If only it had toe rubber... That's basically what I want really - Kataki stiffness with a decent toepatch for hooking. Oh, and a little bit wider. 1st world problems.

Yeah, the LV Miura's are quite narrow as well. I found the Katakis too wide.

That feels like a pretty niche requirement; can't be very often you need to stand on a stiff rubber dependent 10p edge and then toehook before needing a precision heelhook!  :lol:

More generally it doesn't surprise me that toe rubber tends to come only on the softer shoes, given its more of a bouldering requirement and bouldering generally doesn't need super stiff edging shoes.

I must be really weird because I find myself toehooking on vert routes quite often, usually to help add body tension on directional holds or control rotation. I get your point - that combination is not so important in the majority of scenarios but I do have a lime boulder project at the moment that needs all 3 (although not pure dime edge capacity, just instinct level stiffness)   ;D

It's an overhanging rising traverse with 14 moves, very small crimps and footholds, one crucial toehook and two tiny spike heelhooks where you really need to drive weight through the heel. It's actually what got me so picky about all this in the first place 😂

Here's a video:

That video is class, the way he falls off and slides down to the start of the trav on the snow whilst screaming 'neinnnnnnnnnn'. Imitable behavior.

SA Chris

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#37 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 12:15:06 pm

That video is class, the way he falls off and slides down to the start of the trav on the snow whilst screaming 'neinnnnnnnnnn'

To which you reply "not 9, 8b+"

MischaHY

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#38 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 03:53:47 pm

This was on the agenda but now Kataki seems to be the superior choice as it's got similar stiffness and precision but the heel fits perfectly. If only it had toe rubber... That's basically what I want really - Kataki stiffness with a decent toepatch for hooking. Oh, and a little bit wider. 1st world problems.

Yeah, the LV Miura's are quite narrow as well. I found the Katakis too wide.

That feels like a pretty niche requirement; can't be very often you need to stand on a stiff rubber dependent 10p edge and then toehook before needing a precision heelhook!  :lol:

More generally it doesn't surprise me that toe rubber tends to come only on the softer shoes, given its more of a bouldering requirement and bouldering generally doesn't need super stiff edging shoes.

I must be really weird because I find myself toehooking on vert routes quite often, usually to help add body tension on directional holds or control rotation. I get your point - that combination is not so important in the majority of scenarios but I do have a lime boulder project at the moment that needs all 3 (although not pure dime edge capacity, just instinct level stiffness)   ;D

It's an overhanging rising traverse with 14 moves, very small crimps and footholds, one crucial toehook and two tiny spike heelhooks where you really need to drive weight through the heel. It's actually what got me so picky about all this in the first place 😂

Here's a video:

That video is class, the way he falls off and slides down to the start of the trav on the snow whilst screaming 'neinnnnnnnnnn'. Imitable behavior.

Brilliant, isn't it? Proper psyche material.

Alright update - got the expected stack of shoes today and surprisingly enough the best fit seems to be the men's solution in 41.5. Although it does seem to be higher volume it somehow has a much nicer fit to the Achilles than the women's one which I found meant it slipped less when testing hooks. This is actually very advantageous because in every other sense the men's model is far superior for me being wider and stiffer.
The odd thing is I tried this exact model on not two years ago and it felt shit so maybe TomTom is onto something with his four pairs the same size 🤔🙈

The evolvs didn't fit at all unfortunately although I wish they did because they're a gorgeously designed shoe.

Will report back once I've messed around with them a bit but right now they feel spot on so hopefully it stays like that.

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#39 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 04:06:02 pm
Solutions were remodelled about 2 or 3 years ago (or longer)? I never had the old ones so can't compare.

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#40 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 04:10:26 pm

The evolvs didn't fit at all unfortunately although I wish they did because they're a gorgeously designed shoe.

Will report back once I've messed around with them a bit but right now they feel spot on so hopefully it stays like that.

Oddly, my Evolv Oracles were the only shoe where I've HAD to use the plastic bag trick to get them on, and they were crippling to begin with, but after a week they broke in and became my comfiest shoes and have not stretched any further since then. I keep them on for 2 hour board sessions with no issue. They aren't my preferred shoe for performance (genius) but are my favourite to wear and the build quality seems top notch. Everyone has a different foot though!

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#41 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 07:00:04 pm

The evolvs didn't fit at all unfortunately although I wish they did because they're a gorgeously designed shoe.

Will report back once I've messed around with them a bit but right now they feel spot on so hopefully it stays like that.

Oddly, my Evolv Oracles were the only shoe where I've HAD to use the plastic bag trick to get them on, and they were crippling to begin with, but after a week they broke in and became my comfiest shoes and have not stretched any further since then. I keep them on for 2 hour board sessions with no issue. They aren't my preferred shoe for performance (genius) but are my favourite to wear and the build quality seems top notch. Everyone has a different foot though!

Second this. I went a full size down and had to bag + wear on the sofa to break in a few times. They are by far my favourite shoe for all sorts of stuff.

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#42 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
March 02, 2021, 08:38:30 pm
Bit of a left-field suggestion, but could you make some sort of heel insert that'd fit inside the shoe to fill out the dead space? Combined with something that already has a stiff heel it might help stop the heel scrunching up without having to downsize too aggressively.


You could maybe get a ski boot fitter to inject some mouldable boot liner material in there? Would be a very custom job, but could actually be very successful.

Not cheap and cheerful however....
Ooh, now we're getting technical 🤓Any thoughts on what might be a suitable material?

Butchering an insole might work if you could find something stiff enough. Maybe a piece of a tupperware box? Or some sort of molded fiberglass kinda thing? Dont blame me if it cracks and you get a foot full of glass though  :lol:

How about a blister plaster stuck to the inside of your shoe?

Cheap, removable and malleable... I like it!! Will genuinely give this a go.

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#43 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
October 05, 2021, 11:58:24 am
Looking for some knowledge...

Dragon heels are the only heel I've had recently that fit to my narrow heels and low-profile feet. I've got a pair of Sirius now and I love them but the slightly baggier heel isn't as good. I used to use Evolvs but binned them after some build quality issues with the Nexxo (which, incidentally, had decent heels until the rubber peeled off them!). Lace-up would be ideal as I can get a tight fit across my thin feet. Anyone got any rogue suggestions? Scarpa, Sportiva etc. are generally too wide in the toe box.

Cheers all!

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#44 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
October 05, 2021, 04:16:32 pm
Drago LV? 

Some find the Drago heels not good. I've just had a pair arrive (note - not qualifying for cheap shoes thread  :greed: :greed: ), but I think others have said they're good, so maybe worth trying them on to see? Toe box feels more snug than my usual Scarpas.

Mainly just posting to prompt others who may agree/disagree.

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#45 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
October 05, 2021, 08:59:10 pm
I found the Drago heels a little baggy, otherwise great shoe. The LVs are as good in every other way but have way more snug heels which is ace

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#46 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
November 01, 2021, 09:28:37 pm
I found the Drago heels a little baggy, otherwise great shoe. The LVs are as good in every other way but have way more snug heels which is ace

Been breaking the Drago in, and just generally using them as all my other shoes need resoled. Really struggled on w problems that felt like they should be a fairly basic heel today. So maybe not so good...

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#47 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
November 02, 2021, 09:32:05 am
Looking for some knowledge...

Dragon heels are the only heel I've had recently that fit to my narrow heels and low-profile feet. I've got a pair of Sirius now and I love them but the slightly baggier heel isn't as good. I used to use Evolvs but binned them after some build quality issues with the Nexxo (which, incidentally, had decent heels until the rubber peeled off them!). Lace-up would be ideal as I can get a tight fit across my thin feet. Anyone got any rogue suggestions? Scarpa, Sportiva etc. are generally too wide in the toe box.

Cheers all!

Hey Andy

Ye I used to love the dragon heal as well - could get it to stick on almost anything.  Scarpa dont fit me so Im pretty much using la sportiva now.  The heel on some of their models are pretty good (eg skwama and otaki) although im not so keen on the more bulbous solution heel.  You mentioned the toe box is too wide but I think they do lower volume versions of most of their shoe models - might be worth a shot? 


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#48 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
April 12, 2022, 12:53:41 pm
Picked up the Sportiva Mantra a few days back. First impressions are excellent and very positive for flat heeled folk. I'd say it's the first proper soft shoe/slipper that's ever fitted my foot well. Sensitivity is amazing, hooking is very stable with minimal rubber folding and the overall fit/feel is very snug and precise.

The fit is somewhere between Solution and Skwama but very soft. Really looking forward to using these on rock, especially sandstone/gritstone.

Size wise I actually went 0.5 sizes up from my Solution size and this seems to work well. They still haven't stretched much yet so we'll see how that goes.

Overall though very impressed and thusfar highly recommended.

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#49 Re: Shoes with heels that aren't shit.
April 12, 2022, 06:40:10 pm
Drago LV? 

Some find the Drago heels not good. I've just had a pair arrive (note - not qualifying for cheap shoes thread  :greed: :greed: ), but I think others have said they're good, so maybe worth trying them on to see? Toe box feels more snug than my usual Scarpas.

Mainly just posting to prompt others who may agree/disagree.
Drago LVs were a game changer for me. I find the normal Drago heel baggy as fuck.

 

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