W. AM Had a play on the fingerboard moving between the slots. Found it harder than campusing edges as you need to be more accurate getting your fingers in the slots. Also seemed harder when moving back down slots. Managed 5 moves (4 up, 1 down) a few times timing 3 secs per move. Surprisingly fun and much harder than I thought it would be. Works shoulders too. Seemed like a good exercise. T. Two goes up Tin Of with rests. Rock felt glassy and I felt awful. Felt knackered and glum about my woeful endurance. Third go with cloud cover redpointed it! WTF? Fourth go did with a few rests. Felt absolutely destroyed.
Then round to Unknown Wall for some gentle trad up Desecrator HVS which was fantastic, belaying in the sun looking out to Portishead was very good for the soul. Board session at home after, unsurprisingly bit tired but still managed to try hard.
I really like these little sequences on the fb, adds so much interest for me which is key for the motivation. And nice one busting out tin of from nowhere.
Great to get my nemesis project done finally
This time I managed to climb to the top despite a desperate hand adjustment on the last hard move. Good to finally put this to bed! This route has taken me more tries than any other 8a+.
S - AM: Warm up at home then back on the nemesis 8a+ project. Felt good on the moves again and the skin on my tips was holding up a bit better this time. Someone from the Austrian team was also trying the route which was the first time I had ever seen anyone else trying it. It was good to see that there wasn't some trick I was missing and that the route is just hard. Having seen this girl boulder indoors, she has power to burn but the route was also giving her a hard time. After falling on the last hard move and exchanging goes I had one final attempt which was more to get my draws out as my tips were already weeping. Somehow I got though the lower crux but I felt much fresher at the halfway point where the route leaves the 7c+ exit. This time I managed to climb to the top despite a desperate hand adjustment on the last hard move. Good to finally put this to bed! This route has taken me more tries than any other 8a+. The grading is strange as the hardest part is the lower wall which is shared with a 7c+ meaning it would have been the longest a 7c+ had ever taken me as well if I had taken that exit! It felt every bit at least 8b to me but nobody else seems to think so on 8a.nu so I guess the locals are just too strong! PM: NG PE session 3 sets (0.75 units).
W/C 22/2/21Work on locks. Start at full lock for 3x30 seconds wearing 10k vest and am really quite surprised to do it, although I am trying quite hard it’s safe to say. Go on to do the same at 90° and 120°, which get progressively less difficult at lower angles but remains pretty tough.
Well done! Do you think the company on the route that day gave you a bit of a boost? Either by way of friendly competition or just a validation that you had the 'right' sequence and so could focus your attention?
Th - Lamp sesh at St Ives. Had a go on Gritty Shaker but connies didn't feel great. Wouldn't mind seeing Liam's photo if the link can be made to work, though not sure I'll make the span if it's what I think it is. We bailed to the Amphitheatre and did the remainder of the obvious lines (bar the hard thing). Skin was pretty worse for wear by the end which was a shame.
Mostly it was good to see that even someone of her calibre was struggling to do the route and that I just had to ignore the grade and try really hard.
Quote from: JohnM on March 01, 2021, 09:27:43 amMostly it was good to see that even someone of her calibre was struggling to do the route and that I just had to ignore the grade and try really hard.Nothing like the realisation that you aren't shit to get the job done! Nice one John- did your competitor do it as well? M - rest. Some core in the evening. Felt nails.T - finger felt a bit better but didn't fancy one armed hangs so did some two armed max hangs for the first time in ages. I am miles stronger than when I last did these which was pleasing. Worked my way up from 20kg, 10 secs to 37.5kg, 10 secs. Previous PB is about 32 I think. Had a hail mary go at 40kg, which is all the weight I own, and managed about 5 seconds. Main issue with these hangs is the logistical effort of moving all the weight around and the very real risk of crushing my own toes or fingers. Stability hangs to finish.
Epic Saturday Chris!!
Which 6A stumped you at St Ives? I found the main arete on the left nails, and Will called me names...
I actually don't know if she did it or not. I watched her last attempt but she fell on the "7c+ " lower half. I was done by midday and went straight back home to train on the finger board 40kg is good going! That must be well over 150% BW. I am aiming to get to 150% BW by April. I may be able to do it now but I hold back a bit with the added weight as I am never as fresh as I would like to be and I am trying to maintain a strict half crimp. Are you doing any particular grip type or just the one that gets the job done?
I darent load my fingerboard with me and 30+kg.... I’ve tried 25 and it made all sorts of ominous creaks (the board not my fingers!)
