[Will Hunt]

So just above Manson's Must, on the top - there's a flat plateau with a load of stuff about 1 metre-ish high. There's also a boulder with a plaque on it if it helps to find the area.

Will have to take some photos and do a topo for Unknown Stones next time I'm there Will!

Ta. Might be the bit I've already explored with them. When I'm on top I'm never quite sure which bit I'm above. I think an Unknown Stones kid's circuit guide would be an excellent idea.

[Duncan Disorderly]

On time again! 

M: Routes @ Horseshit - Needed to get back on the string so went with the GF to the BMC's premier choss-hole  . Did a couple of 5's then threw laps on a 6a+ (in between her attempts)... Most I did was 4 reps @ nominal rest (lower down, pull straight back on)... Finger felt fine!
T: Blackberry wall - 1hr of 30+ move traversing on small edges. Finger good!
W: Shoulder shizz
T: Back to horseshit with GF... Horrible conditions! Bailed in wind and rain - half a warmup route done.. Home for board sesh, 2hrs PE... 15 move circuits @ mid to large holds.... Trashed!
F: Shoulder stuff
S: Board sesh - Power and PE - Warmup, 7 move max problems on 1st joint edges, 7 move max problems on larger holds with bigger moves, 15 move mid to large holds (to failure)...
S Walk round Burbage/Higgar with daughter looking for dry rock... There wasn't any! Shoulder stability stuff!

Good week after last weeks down-time... Laid off the fingerboard again to give the tweak a bit of respite, probably could have handled it but feel that I substituted it pretty well with the fingery climbing.... Nice to set some problems on the board and get climbing. Also great to get out on the string again... Missing the routes!

[Nibile]

Power Club
Mon - fingers Lattice. Did some tests up to +6 kg (3" hang) and +5 kg (5" or more). BW 68 kg, 70 kg with clothes and pre session snack. Weightbelt and chain probably 1 kg. Not bad. Scores for RH. LH 4/5 kg less due to shoulder issues. Lots of hangs at +4. Snatch DL (not rack) 5x5 90 kg.
Tue - rest.
Wed - short on time again, need to win the lottery. BM back2 mid 10 solid hangs + 2 on small (tweaky and painful). Weights and pull ups in between. PE low 30/30 x10 yay! Quite dangerous for knee... I felt it. Twisting and pulling is not good.
Thu - short on time, ut supra. Bar work. Snatch 5x5 40, 42, 44, 44, 42 kg. High pulls 5x5. Farmer's static holds. Overhead carry. 9mm back3 hangs in between sets.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights outside. A blessing.
Sun - PE low 30/30 x10 fairly easy. 6 boxing rounds.

[dunnyg]

The move to the big jug in the centre of the face? I've been trying to hit that, with LH in the sharp gaston and using the RH pinchy thing as an intermediate for ages.

The move to the jug yeah, but coming in from above. From the left had sharp gaston, go right hand up to a crimp, shuffle to high feet and pop to a good side pull. Left hand then up to the crimp and (somehow) drop down to the jug. I fell off this drop down a few times.

[moose]

I've never noticed a crimp or sidepull up above the pinchy blob thing...either we're at cross purposes, or I can't be looking hard enough.  I suspect success will depend on just seeing someone else on it.

[JohnM]

M - Trail run 10.84km 310m.

T - Trail run 14km 582m. NG PE session (4 sets) (1 unit).

W - Shoulder stability + core (0.5 units). Slopers + pockets (0.5 units). Repeaters (0.5 units).

T - Trail run 10.31km 308m. Assisted one arm pull ups (1 unit).

F - Route testing at the university wall (6b+ - 7c). Weighted pull ups (3 x 3 24kg, 4 x 5 15kg, 3 x 8 10kg) (1 unit).

S - Ski tour up and down Grosser Solstein 20km 1765m.

S - Alpine skiing Stubai Galcier 21 runs.

Failed to do 2.5 out of the 8 units planned for this week. I think I may have to change my training plan. There is not enough time to rest and I was too ambitious to retain the same volume of strength and finger strength training units as before whilst introducing more and more power endurance. I have been making strength gains but at a glacial rate so I was keen not to drop to many of the sessions but it looks like I will have to. The route testing was the first climbing moves I had done in 2 months. However, I could feel some strength gains, particularly on the overhanging basic stuff and it was a no fall session. I was useless as a route tester though as I suggested 7a for everything even if it was meant to be 6b+ or 7c!