Mostly it was good to see that even someone of her calibre was struggling to do the route and that I just had to ignore the grade and try really hard.
Quote from: JohnM on March 01, 2021, 09:27:43 amMostly it was good to see that even someone of her calibre was struggling to do the route and that I just had to ignore the grade and try really hard.Nothing like the realisation that you aren't shit to get the job done! Nice one John- did your competitor do it as well? M - rest. Some core in the evening. Felt nails.T - finger felt a bit better but didn't fancy one armed hangs so did some two armed max hangs for the first time in ages. I am miles stronger than when I last did these which was pleasing. Worked my way up from 20kg, 10 secs to 37.5kg, 10 secs. Previous PB is about 32 I think. Had a hail mary go at 40kg, which is all the weight I own, and managed about 5 seconds. Main issue with these hangs is the logistical effort of moving all the weight around and the very real risk of crushing my own toes or fingers. Stability hangs to finish.
Epic Saturday Chris!!
Which 6A stumped you at St Ives? I found the main arete on the left nails, and Will called me names...
I actually don't know if she did it or not. I watched her last attempt but she fell on the "7c+ " lower half. I was done by midday and went straight back home to train on the finger board 40kg is good going! That must be well over 150% BW. I am aiming to get to 150% BW by April. I may be able to do it now but I hold back a bit with the added weight as I am never as fresh as I would like to be and I am trying to maintain a strict half crimp. Are you doing any particular grip type or just the one that gets the job done?
I darent load my fingerboard with me and 30+kg.... I’ve tried 25 and it made all sorts of ominous creaks (the board not my fingers!)