[Jim]

any tips for holding the slap move?
(heel hooks and mono's round the courner not welcome!)

[cofe]

slap it really hard while chewing your bottom lip.

[Mr.Burns]

U tried slapping with your right hand so you don't barn door?

Not sure if it works but I have seen it done that way in which case I guess it does work. :roll:

[dave]

i recon just hit it hard with left adn have good skin. and make sure theres a camera pointing at you.

[Mr.Burns]

word to that dave!!

if the camera is on you....make sure you look good!!
if the camera isn't on you then stay in bed!!!

[Jim]

right hand slap would be nails.
Think you might be right about the camera. Just not pysched enough

[cofe]

the camera battery had just run out though when i did it. so maybe this theory isn't watertight....?

[Mr.Burns]

did you find that out after you did it? just knowing a camera is facing your way is sometimes enough.

[cofe]

good point. no it had just expired. maybe it was the rage at finding this out...

[Ru]

Can I second the slap really hard method? It worked for me too. I also used this beta on Andy Browns Wall to good effect. Finally I used a variation of this beta for Lager Lager Lager - pull really hard on the holds.

As a general rule people don't pull hard enough I think.

[Johnny Brown]

U tried slapping with your right hand so you don't barn door?

Not sure if it works but I have seen it done that way

Surely you were sniffing glue when you wrote that? What do you do with the left?

As for slapping hard, I find the slap is easy, but holding it hard. So you must slap less hard, but grab the hold harder :wink: Try to deadpoint it so your body ain't so wild. I believe there is a good demonstration on stick it.

As a general rule people don't pull hard enough I think.

I think you pull too hard. T'aint nat'rul.

[Jim]

I believe there is a good demonstration on stick it.

Look at Me  :

[RobinB]

Is using a right foot heel hook and the shallow pocket round to the right of the arete considered acceptable? Saves you bashing your back on the boulder if you fall off

[Johnny Brown]

Yes, as long as your heel doesn't stray into the crack. As this is the logical place and reduces it to about 6a most do without the heel.

[jonjon]

Barker - why did you have to ask?

[Johnny Brown]

You didn't have your heel in the crack did you Jon? I bet you thought you were some kind of technical genius... 

[cofe]

Don't worry word. I've just added this subject to my To-Do list for Tuesday morning...   

[RobinB]

I knew I shouldnt have asked 

[Probes]

Lock the undercuts, miss out the arete n you dont have to slap!!

[jonjon]

You didn't have your heel in the crack did you Jon? I bet you thought you were some kind of technical genius... 

Not all of it 

[Johnny Brown]

Whatever - its still tippex time!