[RobK]

M – Rest.

T – Max hangs, 3 finger drag with +10kg. All complete. Potentially starting to feel a little tweaky though. I’ve made good progress with this grip over past few weeks so might switch back to half crimp for a bit now. Then an hour on the board. Started with limit stuff but was a little off the pace so just decided to do loads of old problems but using the big feet. Good session and felt worked afterwards. Offset pull ups to finish. Then before bed I did a set of 10 x 10on/50off low intensity hangs, see the other thread.

W – AM, low intensity hangs again. PM, Crimpd 80% repeaters with +9kg. Felt really steady and found I got warmed up really quickly. Maybe because of the morning session? A good long TRX set to finish with, Ts, reverse Ts, superman press ups and rows.

T – AM, low intensity hangs but switched it up to 10on/20off. PM, power endurance on the board. Four sets of broken quarters on my board yellow circuit. 20 seconds between quarters, 6 minutes between reps. Felt like a really good session and failed on the last couple of reps of the last set so perfect intensity. Finished with levers.

F – AM, low intensity hangs, 30on/30off today. Probably going to keep the timings fairly variable. PM, 40 minute run and then more 10/20 low intensity hangs.

S – AM, 10/50 low intensity hangs (sensing a theme yet?!). PM, max hangs and back to half crimp. Decided to go for +24kg which I have never completed a session of and managed to bash it out! Potentially a little left in the tank too. Then an hour of limit stuff on the board feeling really strong. No ticks on either of my long term projects but big progress. Finished with offset pull ups.

S – AM, Crimpd 80% repeaters with +10kg. Felt quite tired on the first set and almost sacked it in but somehow managed to finish the whole session, nice! On the minute pull ups afterwards. PM, 1.20on/1.10off AeroCap on the board. Finished with some push ups.

I guess about as good as a week’s training can get for me at the minute during lockdown. All four fingerboard sessions were PBs and had some really good board sessions too. Now the challenge is to keep this up for the next month or so until hopefully I can fondle rock again while managing fatigue/psyche/boredom levels.

[dunnyg]

Mon. Warm up. dumbell press, oh press  (15 and 12 x3) with 8.5 kg.
20 pull ups, then tried 1 arm. Tried with 2 bands and could do 1 rep each arm. Tried with one band and couldnt start. Tried with 1 hand holding wrist, couple of reps each side, amd managed 1 rep each side with hand on bicep. Find the bands annoying so will do hand on bicep next time.
5 x 5 pullups with +17.5 kg, last set managed 6 reps. Will try 6x5 next time. Did some russian twists between sets.
Post dins leg stretch.

tu. pressups 10 x 2
warm up.
repeaters - 5 sets alternating 4 and 3 fingers. Completed!
Leg warm up and good stretch. aim to do splits feet to either side of yoga mat?

wed. Ilkley. Tried and failed on first arete, made some good links on the calf trav though.

Thurs. nowt

fri. nowt

Sat. Ilkley polar haze and first arete. Didnt enjoy polar at all so Im leaving it. First arete was the only thing out of the wind. Also going to sack this off. Too much wasted time. Ended up in a major psyche hole.

Sun. Went for a run for the first time in a few years. Stopped off at 4 crags and did a boulder problem/route at each in my trainers, including a f.r.a. 12km 380m ascent. Saved my weekend!

Still keen for evening calf sessions, and have my eye on a couple of interesting looking chunks of rock. Weather warming up slightly if very welcome. Only 1 fb session which is naughty.

[shark]

Thanks Rob

11.6-8 Average 161.7(+1.1lb)


M.

T. AM FB set of recruitment pulls and speed pulls. PM Out to Tor with dogs. Walked in from Millers Dale station to find they were tree felling in the vicinity of the crag. Bummer. Home again. Fast pull-ups this time preceded by 2.5 pull-ups with +30kg. Chest to bar 16x out of 20. PB. Lengthy Max hangs session on ergo edge with similar scores to last time.

W.

T. AM FB set of recruitment pulls and speed pulls. Lunchtime. Anston. 1 degree but felt colder. Icicles at Woodys and finish of Soul Crusher wet. Hard section driable. Fingers felt strong. With blancos was able to do starting move and got the first hold a couple of times and then got close to doing the second move. Did the second move in isolation and pretty much did the third in isolation again with the blanco whose toe profile isnt ideal. Finished early cos it was cold and had stuff to do. After went on systems board. After went on systems board. Did gaston sequence easily straight off then completed the Oak AnCap circuit successfully 3x but with hindsight think an easier variant of the throw move - had a lot on my mind

F.

S. AM All day low level headache. Was it the wine? Surely not. FB set of recruitment pulls and speed pulls. PM Tor -1 Big trees gone, crag decorated with icicles including on finishing section. Crag deserted. Missing one of my Crawes so had to break in new Aleons. Ouch. Steve said hi from up in the Monsal Trail. Clocked access supremo Henry Folkard doing a drive by presumably checking the tree felling. Messed around on moves including trying high drop knee for cross through which I’ve now got the finger strength to at least get my leg up for now. 6 attempts from start. 1st go with top on and missed crimp. Tops off from now on. 2nd attempt did the throw and held the crimp but with back3 - couldn’t adjust tried moving foot and fell off of course. 3rd was a big imprecise which took the edge off when doing the throw 4th go got the lip of the crimp as a drag but couldnt adjust again. 5th go (was  pretty fed up at this point) gave myself a light face slapping before setting off and got crimp properly this time and climbed through to setting up for the kick move before coming off.
🦄🌈New link 🌈🦄6th go. Last go, worst go. Fell off adjusting in large pocket

S. Lunch FB set of recruitment and speed pulls. PM Systems board. Warm up. Gastons sequence. Felt tired. 3 attempts at Oak AnCap circuit with harder version of throw move. Best go, second attempt, getting to penultimate hold.


Delighted with progress on Bens. Less delighted with weight gain. Seems to be a slight injury / weakness in right shoulder which makes it harder to pull off the crimp on Bens so need to be mindful of that and not make it worse. Back feels a lot better though. PE on systems board coming together.

[Duma]

PM, max hangs and back to half crimp. Decided to go for +24kg which I have never completed a session of and managed to bash it out! Potentially a little left in the tank too.

Even quicker results than Emil!

[Fiend]

S. crag decorated with icicles including on finishing section. ... 1st go with top on and missed crimp. ....Tops off from now on.

Excellent stuff.

[Duma]

M - hour shunting on The Prince for something to do. Thought I'd have a proper look at eliminating the arete completely, think I'd got a workable sequence but sadly broke a crucial thumb sprag and don't think it goes now. As consolation had a look at the lower rh sequence that most use, managed all but the rockover first go, it's significantly easier for me like this than than the way I led it.
T -
W - am 10min "Too Good To Be True" easy fb session (10s hang/50s rest, various grips).
pm forgot. Night shift.
T - am 10min TGTBT fb session, tweaked as per NaoB (10s hang/20s rest) to increase time under load. Sleep. Eve hour on board, brutally cold in the yard but still good to get some moves in. Night shift.
F - am 14 min TGTBT fb session, tweaked again to 10s hang 30s rest). Sleep. Pm 5k run, flat, pavement, 20:36. Pleased as didn't feel like I pushed 100%. Eve 14 min TGTBT fb session.
S - am forgot to do TGTBT fb. Pm board, 1 hr. Almost didn't bother as still really cold, but started warm up on the fb, and got boots toasty on the radiator which took the edge off. Still felt like a hero in the sleet though. OK session, but excellent finish as set a project move that I'm quite excited about. Managed a (much) easier version of the move before numb toes stopped play.
S - am 14 min fb, couple of front lever progressions. Shoulder rehab. Eve 14 min fb.

Refined the mini fb session through the week, I'm now doing 23 x 10s hangs / 30s rest,
3 x 4 finger deep pockets @ bw,
6 x front 3 drag in deep pockets, the first 2 @ ~90% bw, the rest @ bw,
6 x 4 finger half crimp @ ~90% bw,
2 x middle 2 drag  deep pockets @ ~90% bw,
2 x front 2 drag deep pockets @ ~90% bw,
2 x middle two half crimp @ ~70% bw,
2 x front 2 half crimp @ ~70% bw.
Set up like this I I warm up through the first few hangs, but am also able to pull hard enough once I get to the crimps that it's not just rehab. 14 min means it passes the CBA test and thus has the huge advantage that I'm actually doing it!

70kg. Pretty variable this week but putting that down to the vagaries of night shifts.

[Will Hunt]

Tu - in the hope that there will be a limestone season this year I'd like to attempt to gain some fitness. Repeaters are a bit of a struggle to get pumped on because I find that I'm becoming weak in the shoulders before I complete 6 sets - shoulders get shaky which makes it a struggle to keep going. I have devised a new fingerboarding routine which will take me up routes of dizzying, Spanish heights. 20, maybe even 30 metres long.
I call it. The Pumpenhaus Protocol.
6 sets of 6 hangs. Then a short break to eat something (this is a lunch break thing) then back to the fingerboard. Feet slightly in front of you and do as many hand movements as you can manage. I think I did 90 on the first set, followed by a 10 minute break, followed by 100 moves. Here is a video at x4 speed.




Th - Calf at lunchtime. Warmed up at home and then got shut down by Classic Calf. Worse than last session. Maybe it was just too cold?

Sa - Caley. Warmed on fingerboard and off to Secret Seventh. First tried this in 2013 and have played on it intermittently when conditions seemed good ever since. The consuelas were primed and on the successful go the holds felt as jugs. YYFY!
Also had a crack at Crystal Method which I don't think I've ever had a real session on before - I've merely flailed uselessly a few times and given up. Actually got the top crimp properly this time. Used toe on the foothold, not heel. Had a few goes pawing the low Gaston but can't fathom how that helps. The top Gaston seems fairly unattainable. There must be a magic body position that makes it work?
Had a go at No Pebble Arete before home. Watched World's Strongest Man Tim Palmer do the second(?) ascent of Funny Bunnies, then heckled him as he (twice) very nearly jumped off rather than face the 1940s HVS solo jugfest Rabbit's Paw Wall to top out.

Su - St Ives. Brushing and new blocks.

Skin is in absolute tatters now, but a good weekend was had.

[gollum]

W/C 8/2/21

M- Abs, walk, max hangs, pull based conditioning, upper body mobility, yoga,
T - Density hangs,  Pulls, abs/core, stretch and yoga.
W - Velocity pulls, abs, compression, stretch and yoga
T - Abs/core, shoulders, repeaters, stretch and yoga
F - Abs, pull and compression exercises, stretching and yoga, big hold repeaters
S - Abs, walk, yoga and stretching
S - Abs, yoga and mobility

Playing with a new programme this week to see how I get on.

M - Start with 5 minute plank. Then 4x10 L-sit pull-ups. Move on to levers, holding full lever up to failure and then straight into one leg tucked for 4 sets. Then on to 4  front levers to failure, then retracting one leg and going to failure again. 4 banded back levers for max hold. Finishing with 4x25 hanging windscreen wipers.
Walk is in two halves, as have a hearing test and it just happens to be halfway round my route.
Back for some Max Hangs after warming shoulders thoroughly. 10x8-10 seconds between bodyweight and minus 2k. Press ups and Extensor curls. 3x45 seconds 90° lock offs. 3x3 pull-ups for speed.  3x12 front raises. 3x floor W and Is. 3x30 second hollow bodies.
Do some upper body mobility and a yoga session for hamstrings.
Finish day with 80 paused roll it’s with abs roller.

T - Warm up. Density hangs. First time I’ve tried this, aiming for 6 sets of 45 seconds. Start with bodyweight on 14mm edge, manage it on 3 sets but down around 35 on others, still happy with that as a start point though.
Next is some pull up work. Start with OAP for 5x singles to get going BW on R, -2 on L. Move on to 3x5 OAP with assistance. Needs a bit of experimentation to get weights right. End up with 6k support on RH and close to getting 5 with 8k support on LH, but last rep was just a touch short. Also, not the most efficient pulley, just quick to set up, will sort this out. Finish with some alternate arms Aussie rows with a reach.
For core do a range of planks, hollow bodies, side planks and flutter kicks. Next is 3x3 minute planks, which felt tough after other stuff. Finish with 50 steady abs roll outs.
Stretch routine for side splits today. With yoga for hip flexibility.

W - Do some velocity pulls in the morning for 10 sets but also trying to work out what the right level is for me, which seems to be around +5k on the centre hold of BM2K. Then do a couple of weighted small edge hangs, reaching 4 seconds with 32k added on the 7mm, which equates to almost bang on 100k. This is the point, that I switch the 7s down to the 6mm edges. Very quick play with the pinch blocks and rock solid at 24, shakier at 26 and very shakey but doable at 28 and nailed to floor by 30.
Start with 5 levers for 20 seconds. First two hold for full 20, after that drop back to either straddle or one leg tucked when it starts getting hard. Move on to two arm lock offs first for 3x30-45 seconds, start with full lock, then at 120° and finally 90°. Move on to some compression isometric holds plan to do it for 3x15 seconds, but first set feels steady, so put weight vest on and do three more. Move on to 3x20 bar dips, which get tough around rep 15 on each set. Finish strength stuff with leg raises for 3x10.
Mobility session for upper body and then yoga for shoulders and one of the positions feels absolutely brutal, to the point that I’m unsure that I’m doing it right.
Finish the day with 5 minutes plank, which is harder at this end of a session, and then 50 paused roll outs with the abs roller.

T - Start with abs work in the morning. Mixing up the order of things seems like a neat trick, so same routine as Tuesday but in a different order. Start with 3x3 minute planks. Follow this with 50 abs roll outs and finish with combination of hollow bodies, planks, flutter kicks and side planks. Change in order does change focus about when things get tough.
Go through warm up including some scapular pulls and shoulder range of motion drills. Then into 3x10 reverse Ws with bands and 3x8 reverse Ys with bands. Then go through a range of band exercises to help strengthen rotator cuffs.
Very solid repeater session. Good on all grips and finish with three sets on the 7mm edges, albeit with a longer rest for this portion of the session. I always thought that the board was 1° off, today only to measure it and find the back board is 1° off, the Beastmaker board itself is 3° off, no wonder it feels hard compared to others I use at the various walls, still better for me than it being 3° easier.
Stretching today was again side splits, while yoga was based around the back. Checked out some progressions for the exercise I found so hard yesterday, still hard, just nothing like as hard.

F - Start with some abs and core. Five minute plank to begin with. 3x15 second levers with long rests in between, experiment with pulls on lever position on last set. Back levers next without band for three sets, definitely some minor improvement. Run through floor routine and finish with 80 abs roll outs and 30 second back arch.
Go through warm ups. Start with some weighted exercises for scapulars and rear delts in general. Move on to 5x10 pull ups with 15k, which feels about the right weight to get a good squeeze at the top of each rep. Move on to prone Ts for 3x5 with 3 second pause at bottom of each set. On first set wear weight vest after that do same but also raise feet, use blocks to ensure getting to 6 inch from floor. Next do  3x15 second holds in the T position.  Move on to 3x5 prone Ys, with 15 second hold on last set. Final TRX exercise is prone Is for 3x5. Finish upper body stuff with 3x10 close hand press ups.
Today’s yoga concentrates on fingers, twists, feet and shoulders and feels really good. Do a little more upper body stretching afterwards to make sure I’m working on those shoulders.
New fingerboard exercise, repeaters on big holds for 5 minutes x3 sets. Did it on big holds on Beastmaker, was fine but not sure I’d have wanted, or have been able, to do complete a fourth set. Never much liked any training that takes extended effort.

S - Abs roller for 3x15 off the feet and then do 5 additional reps to get to 50.
Nice walk in the park. Definitely too cold to see if I can do a muscle up on the bars there.
Yoga for climbers session, followed by splits stretching routine. Late afternoon do the hangman shoulder stretch pose with head out from wall about 3 inches for 5 minutes, really cannot imagine being able to do this starting with head at the wall.

S - 50 easy roll outs with abs roller, followed by abs based yoga session and some upper body mobility stuff.
Longer walk on the park with Mrs B.
A lovely rest day.

A good week, certainly focused a lot on stretching with some things that were okay and others that were a real battle, but all of it was well worth it.

[Carl]

A bit pissed off that I couldn't get out due to my heel! At least I'm keeping up some FB work.

STG - 2-3 7B+ [4 complete!] in Q1 and some progress on a 7C. If weather cooperates. Stick to fingerboarding if it doesn't.
MTG - get on a rope for some hardish (> F7b) things this year.
LTG - figure out an LTG.

Monday
Max hangs. Up to 90.9 kg total. On the edge of losing form reps 3-4 out of 6, but 5 & 6 felt better, strangely.

Tuesday
Weighted pullups. Up to 3x6 @96.4kg total load. Last rep felt desperate but managed to grind it out. Bicep slightly niggly afterwards, don't think I have my warmup quite right here -  or too much grinding. Bicep felt fine the following day though, so not overly concerned.

Wednesday
Max hangs, 90.8 kg. Again, 3-4 felt really hard, 5-6 still hard but better. Tried adding in another warmup hang to see if that made any difference to the middle reps always feeling harder, but no apparent effect.

Thursday
Lunchtime 10 on/20 off for 10 minutes to alleviate boredom/join the craze.

Friday
Max hangs, increased load to 91.9 kg. Felt predictably hard, managed 3/6 hangs to the full 7s, about 34s/42s total. Got interrupted by dinner before the last rep - managed 3 seconds which I thought was particularly poor, but re-weighed at an extra 2 kg which could have explained it!

Saturday/Sunday - Nothing, busy on job application.

[RobK]

W - am 10min "Too Good To Be True" easy fb session (10s hang/50s rest, various grips).

Lunchtime 10 on/20 off for 10 minutes to alleviate boredom/join the craze.

Onwards to 2600% gainz!

[Carl]

Onwards to 2600% gainz!

I'm looking forward to pulling 2000+ kg!

[csl]

Power Low Intensity hang club. Looking forward to seeing those 2600% strength gains 

Rest week this week, coincided with a snowdrift underneath the board so unlikely I would have done much anyway.

February Goals

- Have a rest week Done
- Keep the faith, climb on the board 3x a week
- 16x mobility, mainly concentrate on hips: only 5/16 so far
- Mabley Green boulder x3, tick a 7B : not been yet this month

All week. Mostly nothing, some mobility, re-tested 1 arm max hangs and managed bodyweight + 1kg (77kg) on both sides.

I call it. The Pumpenhaus Protocol.
6 sets of 6 hangs. Then a short break to eat something (this is a lunch break thing) then back to the fingerboard. Feet slightly in front of you and do as many hand movements as you can manage. I think I did 90 on the first set, followed by a 10 minute break, followed by 100 moves. Here is a video at x4 speed.

Boring I bet but I'm sure it'll work, an alternative is to get a set of scales and do repeaters with 50% of your bodyweight. Are you doing any PE as well? Repeats of 12 move boulders or similar to build up Anaerobic Capacity.

Good effort on Secret Seventh too!

[User deactivated.]

Gave a week of high volume fingerboarding a go. Obviously this was inspired by the low effort high gains thread, but I decided to go with higher effort even higher gains - he who dares wins, right?

M: am light hangs, pm max hangs
T: am light hangs, pm max hangs
W: am light hangs, board (felt extremely well recruited, half crimping where I previously had to full crimp)
T: am max hangs, pm max hangs
F: enforced rest due to being busy
S: am max hangs, pm board, later pm light hangs
S: light hangs

Up 5kg on max hangs, which is on top of a 10kg gain the week before. Last week I started training in the region of 2-6s hangs rather than 7-10s, so I think I'm still reaping the reward from that.

Going to continue with high volume finger priority training until I feel like I need a break.

[duncan]

‘Ello everyone. Amazed to see shark not doing low-intensity high-frequency hangs, usually quick to embrace the latest fashions! If not quite the same as the Broomgrove Road traverse, I’ve decided it’s like doing a couple of easy trad. routes, sitting around snacking for a few hours, followed by another easy trad. route. I did this for decades and, funnily enough, it didn’t make me strong or less prone to injury!

M - 7km walk, with a 19 minute jog in the middle. First time ‘running’ in three months but felt fine.
T - 10km walk. Deep body-weight squats. Single-leg squats to 90 degrees.
W - 14km walk. Tired in a good way.
T - Shoulder conditioning (IsYsTs, side planks, hand stands). 10km walk. Got vaccinated, fun experience, felt like I’d been punched in the arm and a bit tired afterwards.
F - 9km walk.
S - Deep body-weight squats. Single-leg squats to 100 degrees. 12km walk.
S - 9km walk. Shoulder conditioning.

Rest the fingers week. Felt good generally, zero post-viral fatigue (yay!) and lots of time outside. Generally unfit. Probably the heaviest I’ve been in my life (I looked similarly cuddly after a winter in Tahoe - living with party people, working on the ski lifts, refuelling with beer, nachos and melted cheese - but sensibly didn’t have scales).

Back to the fingerboard, ease into the plodding, cut down on the snacking.

[shark]

‘Ello everyone. Amazed to see shark not doing low-intensity high-frequency hangs, usually quick to embrace the latest fashions!

I prefer to think of myself as open to new ideas despite my age rather than too quick to write things off....

[tomtom]

Try putting feet on the edge of a chair rather than the floor. It means you have to put weight through the toe (rather than heel) and you can also have some core working games of rocking the chair so its on two legs - and having to keep it on two legs  whilst doing the fingerboard shit.

[tomtom]

Been toying with the low intensity morning evening FB routine - and decided to wait and see

Mon: Board day. Good session

Tues: Repeaters on BM slopers, TRX including "supine rows" holding at the 'top' for ten seconds - these are brilliant, like holding a really beefy hard uncercut.

Weds: 1 arm PU day. Better than last time - down to -12kg. Messed about a bit with some drop downs and then some more TRX

Thurs: Board day. Decent - long session (unusual to have the time) not exceptional but good.

Fri: rest

Sat: Board day. V.Good day -nearly did one very hard move Ive been trying for ages.

Sun: TRX to warm up, then tried something new - Assisted 1 arm hangs on the slopers. Weird/good. Took a while to refine my body position/how to hold the assisting rope/footloop, then the weight started to come off. Got down to reps on -12.5kg - and one lot of 10 secs hang at -10.5kg. Could probably go a wee bit lower, but spent alot of time getting down there. Benchmarked -12.5kg for half crimp on the 14/15mm BM crimp edge.. Gentle TRX to warm down later. Felt beasted in the shoulders...

[SA Chris]

First post post sharkathon

8th - fingerboard session. Sure I did something else but not sure what.
9th - 9km on MTB in the snow, great fun, solid underfoot, only felt a slight shift at one point. Couple of snowboard rides in local field, testing bike light gaffer taped to helmet. Worked brilliantly.
10th - lunchtime, few runs in a local field. Evening headtorch mission. 3.5 km hike up hill in Durris, 1 km straight down telegraph pole line. Perfect powder at the top, but a bit flat lower down. Amazing to be out!
11th - 6.5 km run, mostly to see how ice is forming on the coast, and take photos. Amazing weather.
12th - not a great deal, sorting kit out, and half hour shovelling snow and ice to clear driveway.
13th - ski tour - wild and windy, headed to Ballater, and could start right from town centre! 12/13km, up two hills, 2 descents. Absolute hoolie at the top. Great to be out in raw wild weather. Short walk up to Burn O Vat, icicles amazing.
14th - kettlebells evening, not much else, day shortened by minor crisis with leak from gas fire

Mad weather week, a lot of time spent shovelling snow and playing with sledges etc with the kids.

[Nibile]

Power Club
Mon - fingers garage session, good but skin is an issue. I guess bike and boxing gloves do not help. DL 130 kg and 110 with snatch grip. Clean and press. High pulls.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board, one problem then one foot bouldering on PE1 +8 kg. PE low 30/30 x5. Weights.
Thu - PE low 30/30 x7 with margin. Then pulling circuit. TBDL 5x100 kg, pull ups x5, snatch 5x40 kg, high pulls 5x50. All x6. Sacked the broad jumps. From now on every weights only session will start with one PE low 30/30 set of minimum 5 reps.
Fri - rest.
Sat - wheel hits and loaded carries, 2'+2' x10, 2' rests. Outside, in -4 temp. Fantastic.
Sun - very tired from 2 hours long walk in baltic weather (which obviously does not count as training). Pull ups 30" finisher. Farmer's static holds 120 kg x30" x6.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: new (to me) Font 7a outside

M-F: can't recall specifics, but I did about 3 TRX sessions, mainly shoulder-focused but experimented with core on Friday which was bloody hard.

Sat: Got a pass out, albeit with my 4 year-old lad in tow, who was surprisingly keen to come out. Was dubious of his staying power in "feels like -6" connies at Shipley but to be fair he stuck it out for an hour and a bit.

Enough time for him to have a potter, but sadly not enough time for me to do the low version of Leaper Traverse. Did a classic "Dad warmup" - basically pulling on the problem, got about 4 goes before we had to sack it off.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Early again!

M: Warmup, pull on fingerboard - Feel definite tweak in LH middle A4... No idea where it came from as been feeling good and generally being careful... Cold and snowing outside so decide to fuck it all off for a week and go snowboarding instead. Meersbrook Park in the snow was a bit shit - getting colder tho so fingers crossed!
T: Mint connies on Jacobs Ladder - Hit some lips, spun some shit - fucking love it! Built cellar board in the evening...
W: Snowed the evening before - even got a bit of pow down the ladder - could do with a ski lift! Complete cellar board YYFY!
T: Meersbrook park riding - Not as good as the ladder but me daughter had fun... Set an easy problem on board - Test finger, not right! Another day or two.
F: Back to the ladder with me youngest - Coverage getting a bit thinner but still well ridable...
S: Ladder with a mate - Last day of the season I reckon still jusmped the lip and hit a few kickers but it's looking worn out!
S: Walk round Gardoms with Gf and hound - nice to get out in the last of the snow. Nowt dry but looked pretty. Shoulder stability stuff and tentative FB session - managed a few 10s bodyweight hangs on BM (30mm) HC with no pain... Result!

Shit week training-wise - finger pain was a real shock! Think I managed it pretty well all told - best snowboarding week for ages in Sheff so glad I took advantage of that! Was due an easy week anyways but going to go carefully this next couple of weeks, maybe some PE on the board and try and get out on't string.

[Yossarian]

M - hour shunting on The Prince for something to do. Thought I'd have a proper look at eliminating the arete completely, think I'd got a workable sequence but sadly broke a crucial thumb sprag and don't think it goes now. As consolation had a look at the lower rh sequence that most use, managed all but the rockover first go, it's significantly easier for me like this than than the way I led it.

Is there much shuntable Avon stuff that’s (relatively) ok to set up? Trying to update my list of southern venues that work for last minute solo trips when we can get back out...

[Fiend]

The whole of Unknown Buttress lower tier as long as you've got a long rope, although most of them are slightly tech E1-4 stamina plods. Probably quite a bit around the cave on the left of sea walls, and near idleburger if you can solo VDiff to get up there.

[cheque]

zero post-viral fatigue (yay!)

Glad to hear this Duncan. 

Try putting feet on the edge of a chair rather than the floor. It means you have to put weight through the toe (rather than heel) and you can also have some core working games of rocking the chair so its on two legs - and having to keep it on two legs  whilst doing the fingerboard shit.

I used to use a medicine ball which gets more core involved and feels more like using smaller feet.

[Yossarian]

The whole of Unknown Buttress lower tier as long as you've got a long rope, although most of them are slightly tech E1-4 stamina plods. Probably quite a bit around the cave on the left of sea walls, and near idleburger if you can solo VDiff to get up there.

Ta Fiend, will check all this out...