[Will Hunt]

Short article on the other channel.  Best viewed for the link to David Graham's short FA video of The Island, which made me feel nostalgic - old style Dragons (V10s would have made it perfect), and chuntering about the Island being a mental theory to avoid being categorized as insane.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/02/the_worlds_second_font_9a_for_simon_lorenzi_in_fontainebleau-72709

The supposed "first ascent" footage of The Big Island in that article is a disgraceful mash up of footage recorded over different sessions though. A bit disappointing. 

[SA Chris]

And don't get me started on calling the sit start to a problem anything other than the problem's original name + "Sit Start". 

wot no Assis?

[Bradders]

No to be fair, other viable options are "Assis" (regardless of country / local language), "Sit" or "SS" if you need to save space in the guide 

[carlisle slapper]

So, reading between the lines,  does this open the door to books strapped to feet as well then? As we used to joke about Brad pit sitter only being possible in a pair of garry glitter platforms for sub 6ft 2 types, i'm thinking a cable tied Dostoyevsky or two on the right foot would see you right on that as you're stood on a ledge with a colossal undercut. Maybe BB guns could complete the stanage guide with it literally helping him up marble wall? where there's a quill theres a way...

[tomtom]

Its certainly not an open and shut case...

[SA Chris]

I'm just ordering the complete Encyclopaedia Britannica and arranging sherpas.

[jwi]

So, reading between the lines,  does this open the door to books strapped to feet as well then?

At a sport climbing crag near to where I used to live the main developer—a former body builder—was short with a static climbing style.

One of the very first routes at the crag was put up by a rival and has a long move from a small side pull up to a big jug after the main difficulties. Most of us just jump, no problem.

Our protagonist never managed the jump, but the foothold you jump from is large and flat, so he could do the move if he carefully balanced a flat rock on the foothold and used that as a foot stool. Consequently he climbed the start of the route with a large rock in his pocket (at about 8a/+ this was close to his max level), lay it on the foothold, climbed up and carefully put his feet on it to try to reach the jug in a slow controlled manner.

The rock always fell off in the middle of the move, and our hero never did the route. Shortly after he quit climbing and became a golfer.

[dunnyg]

Ha, thats is an amazing story.

[duncan]

So, reading between the lines,  does this open the door to books strapped to feet as well then? As we used to joke about Brad pit sitter only being possible in a pair of garry glitter platforms for sub 6ft 2 types, i'm thinking a cable tied Dostoyevsky or two on the right foot would see you right on that as you're stood on a ledge with a colossal undercut. Maybe BB guns could complete the stanage guide with it literally helping him up marble wall? where there's a quill theres a way...

Totally fine. Emily Harrington wore Alex Honnold’s shoes over the top her own, like a pair of high altitude double boots, so she could heel-toe the Monster Offwidth. 

https://www.climbing.com/news/emily-harrington-free-climbs-el-caps-golden-gate-in-a-day/

(Couldn’t miss the opportunity to shoehorn another barely relevant Yosemite story into this thread...)

[northern yob]

 

So, reading between the lines,  does this open the door to books strapped to feet as well then? As we used to joke about Brad pit sitter only being possible in a pair of garry glitter platforms for sub 6ft 2 types, i'm thinking a cable tied Dostoyevsky or two on the right foot would see you right on that as you're stood on a ledge with a colossal undercut. Maybe BB guns could complete the stanage guide with it literally helping him up marble wall? where there's a quill theres a way...

  This is such a grey area.... Bransby has previous form in this. He once took his chalk bag off mid bouldering comp and balanced it on the crucial foothold, enabling him to make the reach..... cool but not exactly legit.  Same goes for Indian creek splitters tape free is one thing taped is another and taped to fit yet another.... where do you stop! I’m saying a book isn’t legit( if it is Ben might well be on for the Stanage tick, he only needs a couple inch)

[turnipturned]

As this has gone totally off topic.

What about in situ kneepads? I remember watching Ted try and gaffa tape his kneepad to Bat Route (only to fall off about 5mins later). Surely you have to place the kneepad on lead? Or maybe it’s okay if you climb up, place it, then down climb back to the ground. However, Not sure how I would feel if he also tried to gaffa tape a bible to the kneepad as well. Maybe that’s too far?

[turnipturned]

 Not sure how I would feel if he also tried to gaffa tape a bible to the kneepad as well. Maybe that’s too far?

Actually, that definitely too far, purely on safety grounds. Imagine that headline “man killed at Malham by falling bible” that would be tragic.

[tomtom]

It would truly be a message from up high. Or from “him upstairs..”

:D

[AMorris]

This thread makes for amazing reading while I am skiving work, absolutely loving it 

[Nibile]

Here we go, from 9A to 8B+/A1.

[tomtom]

This thread makes for amazing reading while I am skiving work, absolutely loving it 

Its got everything - armchair grading and an ethical debate about knees and bibles. Did he do it commando?

[mrjonathanr]

If there's an even lower sit will it be abbreviated to SSSS?

[jwi]

A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere.

What's this about? Has the swedish psychopath written something both insane and insulting again?

[Fiend]

^^^ very well put   

[Duma]

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLMF7rTDu7j/?igshid=1fug2y3z62dw7

[JamieG]

A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere.

What's this about? Has the swedish psychopath written something both insane and insulting again?

I'm out the loop. Who is this referring to?

[Wood FT]

A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere.

What's this about? Has the swedish psychopath written something both insane and insulting again?

I'm out the loop. Who is this referring to?

Jens, the editor of 8a.nu

[jwi]

A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere.

What's this about? Has the swedish psychopath written something both insane and insulting again?

I'm out the loop. Who is this referring to?

Vol de mort

[JamieG]

A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere.

What's this about? Has the swedish psychopath written something both insane and insulting again?

I'm out the loop. Who is this referring to?

Jens, the editor of 8a.nu

I presume you mean things like this, where he gives Lorenzi a 'yellow card' (!?) for the book under the kneepad.

https://www.8a.nu/news/innovative-9a-tricks-by-lorenzi

[Fiend]

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLMF7rTDu7j/?igshid=1fug2y3z62dw7

Nice image!