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Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi (Read 22365 times)

tomtom

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#50 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 09:53:20 am
Impressive  indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.

Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating  ::)



A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that.  Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.

ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.

Possibly the book the route may be named after?

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#51 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 09:59:23 am
Impressive  indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.

Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating  ::)



A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that.  Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.

ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.

Possibly the book the route may be named after?

That's ok then, I wonder if Lorenzi had to experiment with different  editions of the book, to find the right stiffness, thickness. I really hope he didn't tamper with the book, add pages or stiffen the cover and such like.

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#52 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 10:02:20 am
I was kind of underwhelmed by this news, inasmuch as you can be underwhelmed by 9A, but this has made it for me. It just adds a bit of mystique to it. So much potential for artistry in the choice of book. For the French, Victor Hugo, naturally; for the English aspirant nothing would do but a first edition of Thackeray's Vanity Fair.

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#53 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 10:11:15 am
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soudain-seuls-Isabelle-Autissier/dp/2234077435

£2.80 for the kit to get you up font 9A is good value. Presuming he didn't use the kindle edition.

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#54 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 10:14:03 am
I've patented the kneepad with inflatable insert already, before anyone tries.

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#55 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 10:18:26 am
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soudain-seuls-Isabelle-Autissier/dp/2234077435

£2.80 for the kit to get you up font 9A is good value. Presuming he didn't use the kindle edition.

Are we sure he used this book though? Were there witnesses?

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#56 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 10:39:53 am
ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.

The first draft of Baart van Rajj's new guide '9 + 10 - 1 straight up problem in fontainebleau'.

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#57 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 11:00:34 am
does anyone happen to know whether it's possible to link the Big Island assis into Conviction?

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#58 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 12:04:51 pm
If he didn't use Soudain Seuls I will be disappointed

Andy F

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#59 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 12:07:31 pm
Impressive  indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.

Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating  ::)



A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that.  Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.

I think that really depends on what book it was, there is a big difference between 'of mice and men' and 'Lord of the rings'. I do think it would be cheating if he used a hardback bible though.

Hardback Bible? You mean the old Lancs brick? Hauling that up anything is well worth 9A in my opinion.

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#60 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 12:34:48 pm
For the French, Victor Hugo, naturally; for the English aspirant nothing would do but a first edition of Thackeray's Vanity Fair.

My bet is on a tailored combination of the seven volumes of Proust's "À la Recherche du Temps Perdu" - then he could compensate for variations in leg bulk / clothing by swapping different parts in and out.

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#61 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 12:43:27 pm
ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.

The first draft of Baart van Rajj's new guide '9 + 10 - 1 straight up problem in fontainebleau'.

second draft, first draft was for No Kapote Only

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#62 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 02:00:14 pm
Good to see climbing done by the book
.
.
.
Ah thats my Uber....bye

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#63 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 02:06:44 pm
A Camus would be appropriate.

When Greg Cameron soloed Lost Arrow Chimney in the 70s he carried The Myth of Sisyphus to read in case he was stuck behind another party. (History does not record if it was used as a knee pad on the numerous wide sections)

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#64 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 02:55:50 pm
Isn't there a pic somewhere of Haston using a book with a cam in a wide crack.

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#65 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 04:36:51 pm
Impressive  indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.

Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating  ::)



A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that.  Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.

ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.

Possibly the book the route may be named after?

Well done hive!
Quote
Dear readers, the key to doing 9A is to have a friend who is a bookseller! Indeed, Oriane agreed to sacrifice her current reading, Soudain Seul, for the Big Island. Simon taped the book to his thigh, under his knee pad, to gain a little length; it works.

https://www.grimper.com/news-il-annonce-9a-bloc-les-coulisses-realisation-historique-simon-lorenzi

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#66 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 04:42:51 pm
Another fucking thing to take to the crag. Therabands, liquid chalk, block chalk, portable fingerboard, portable fan, kneepads, and now a selection of leather-bound hardbacks.

Andy W

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#67 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 04:47:00 pm
Another fucking thing to take to the crag. Therabands, liquid chalk, block chalk, portable fingerboard, portable fan, kneepads, and now a selection of leather-bound hardbacks.


and glue

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#68 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 05:06:37 pm
Reacher strapped the book to his leg. He’d picked up the paperback at a thrift store. He hadn’t read it. Reacher didn’t have time to read. Leave your nose in a book and you never knew who or what might be checking you out. And in a town like Fontainebleau that could get you killed.

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#69 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 05:26:51 pm
Another fucking thing to take to the crag. Therabands, liquid chalk, block chalk, portable fingerboard, portable fan, kneepads, and now a selection of leather-bound hardbacks.

At what point is it just cheating?  :worms:

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#70 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 05:29:24 pm
And don't get me started on calling the sit start to a problem anything other than the problem's original name + "Sit Start".  :spank:

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#71 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 05:30:03 pm
Impressive  indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end.

Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating  ::)



A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that.  Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.

ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.

Possibly the book the route may be named after?

Well done hive!
Quote
Dear readers, the key to doing 9A is to have a friend who is a bookseller! Indeed, Oriane agreed to sacrifice her current reading, Soudain Seul, for the Big Island. Simon taped the book to his thigh, under his knee pad, to gain a little length; it works.

https://www.grimper.com/news-il-annonce-9a-bloc-les-coulisses-realisation-historique-simon-lorenzi

What a great little write up. Everything about this makes me love it, the story, the problem, the book and most of all its in Font where the whole idea of bouldering is rooted.

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#72 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 05:56:42 pm
It's certainly not a mindset i've ever seen from an equally near london climbing contingent, must be the ferry or something spoiling the weekend wad development vibes which you see from the dutchies and belgians.

Not a wad and unlikely to ever do any development in Font  :lol: - but I have lived in London for a while and can confirm that booking the ferry and tying yourself into a potential washout is a lot less appealing than just picking the area of the UK with the best conditions on a Friday night and driving there. Add in Brexit related queues on this side and it makes it even worse unfortunately.

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A bit of background on Simon Lorenzi: he is certainly not a nobody who suddenly comes out of nowhere. He won the junior title at the world championships in 2016 and in 2017 he climbed Action Directe. Last spring, the strong climbers in Belgium suddenly started to train seriously. That had a big effect, and in six months the number of >8c routes in the country doubled. Simon was the one who climbed the country's first 9a. He was also the first to repeat 'Traction Universelle'. This was the first 8c (+?) in Belgium and had been climbed by his father Claude in 1994.

Belgium has produced quite a few strong climbers over the years, including world-class athletes like Claude Barbier, Arnould t’Kint, Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Muriel Sarkany and Anak Verhoeven. I’m really curious about this next generation. Seb Berthe (and his amazing summer in the Alps) and Simon Lorenzi are the first two to show how strong and keen they are. Keep an eye on Antoin Kaufman (strongest of them all?) who may be making headlines later this year.

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#74 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 10, 2021, 09:22:45 pm
Short article on the other channel.  Best viewed for the link to David Graham's short FA video of The Island, which made me feel nostalgic - old style Dragons (V10s would have made it perfect), and chuntering about the Island being a mental theory to avoid being categorized as insane.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/02/the_worlds_second_font_9a_for_simon_lorenzi_in_fontainebleau-72709

 

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