Quote from: Ru on February 10, 2021, 09:36:04 amQuote from: Andy W on February 10, 2021, 09:20:08 amImpressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end. Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.
Quote from: Andy W on February 10, 2021, 09:20:08 amImpressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end. Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.
Impressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end. Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating
Quote from: Andy W on February 10, 2021, 09:42:35 amQuote from: Ru on February 10, 2021, 09:36:04 amQuote from: Andy W on February 10, 2021, 09:20:08 amImpressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end. Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.Possibly the book the route may be named after?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soudain-seuls-Isabelle-Autissier/dp/2234077435£2.80 for the kit to get you up font 9A is good value. Presuming he didn't use the kindle edition.
ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.
Quote from: Ru on February 10, 2021, 09:36:04 amQuote from: Andy W on February 10, 2021, 09:20:08 amImpressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end. Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know. I think that really depends on what book it was, there is a big difference between 'of mice and men' and 'Lord of the rings'. I do think it would be cheating if he used a hardback bible though.
For the French, Victor Hugo, naturally; for the English aspirant nothing would do but a first edition of Thackeray's Vanity Fair.
Quote from: Andy W on February 10, 2021, 09:42:35 amha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.The first draft of Baart van Rajj's new guide '9 + 10 - 1 straight up problem in fontainebleau'.
Dear readers, the key to doing 9A is to have a friend who is a bookseller! Indeed, Oriane agreed to sacrifice her current reading, Soudain Seul, for the Big Island. Simon taped the book to his thigh, under his knee pad, to gain a little length; it works.
Another fucking thing to take to the crag. Therabands, liquid chalk, block chalk, portable fingerboard, portable fan, kneepads, and now a selection of leather-bound hardbacks.
Quote from: tomtom on February 10, 2021, 09:53:20 amQuote from: Andy W on February 10, 2021, 09:42:35 amQuote from: Ru on February 10, 2021, 09:36:04 amQuote from: Andy W on February 10, 2021, 09:20:08 amImpressive indeed, but sticking something hard under a knee pad? In an interview on 8a he says "Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood)." I wonder what he used in the end. Anyhow I definitely think that's cheating A book, apparently. The 8a.nu interview suggests it was to make his leg longer to fit the kneebar. I have some sympathy with that. Where it fits into the ethical continuum I don't know.ha I love that...what book? surely that must now be important, I hope it was a French book.Possibly the book the route may be named after?Well done hive! QuoteDear readers, the key to doing 9A is to have a friend who is a bookseller! Indeed, Oriane agreed to sacrifice her current reading, Soudain Seul, for the Big Island. Simon taped the book to his thigh, under his knee pad, to gain a little length; it works. https://www.grimper.com/news-il-annonce-9a-bloc-les-coulisses-realisation-historique-simon-lorenzi
It's certainly not a mindset i've ever seen from an equally near london climbing contingent, must be the ferry or something spoiling the weekend wad development vibes which you see from the dutchies and belgians.