[Fiend]

I presume you mean things like this, where he gives Lorenzi a 'yellow card' (!?) for the book under the kneepad.

https://www.8a.nu/news/innovative-9a-tricks-by-lorenzi

Apart from the 8a Practice and Ethics from 2002, there few written ethical rules in climbing

The 8a ethics use the traffic light system, providing examples of "yellow flag" behaviours, which anyhow make the ascents legitimate.

In my book, I nevertheless give him a yellow card.

Thus  jwi's original description of Jens 

[Fultonius]

As this has gone totally off topic.

What about in situ kneepads? I remember watching Ted try and gaffa tape his kneepad to Bat Route (only to fall off about 5mins later). Surely you have to place the kneepad on lead? Or maybe it’s okay if you climb up, place it, then down climb back to the ground. However, Not sure how I would feel if he also tried to gaffa tape a bible to the kneepad as well. Maybe that’s too far?

How about in-situ boulder mat on The Rathlin Effect E9 in Fairhead?  I shit you not....



Ricky's vid of Caff on it:

[Fiend]

The first 3 minutes of that video are enough to make me question onsight trad climbing!

[Wood FT]

I'm so glad there are videos of trad like this so I don't ever have to do it. Brilliant.

[SA Chris]

Vol de mort

End of de bell more like.

[Anti]

 With all the recent drama around ethics in this place I feel we need some (tongue in cheek) rules. Cyclists among us may be aware of the (now cringe worthy) rules by Velominati (www.velominati.com) thus I think that this forum, as holy gatekeepers of all valid ascents on rock, need a similar list.

[jwi]

First repeat ascent goes to local climber Nico Pelorson

https://fanatic-climbing.com/seconde-ascension-de-soudain-seul-par-nico-pelorson-second-ascent-of-soudain-seul-by-nico-pelorson

[tomtom]

Cool. Looking at the picture no literature was required either...

[cheque]

Book around.

[Bradders]

Some lovely extra background info on bleau.info about this:

NB: this problem has been opened in February 2021 and is one of the hardest in the world. It's an 'old' project which has been tried long before The Island was opened in 2008. The roof, called "Toit du Nid d'Aigle" by foresters, had been identified as a futuristic project by climbers in 1973 and its sitstart had been tried since the late 1990s. Simon suggested to call this problem "Soudain Seul" in a nod to the book placed under his knee pad.

Toit du Nid d'Aigle translates as Roof of the Eagle's Nest. Kind of wish it had kept that name!

[jwi]

8C+ according to Nico Pelorson

https://www.grimper.com/news-nico-pelorson-decote-big-island-assis-soudain-seul-8c

[Bradders]

it does not seem to him selective enough to be able to be 9A block. The difficulty is played on the length of the passage more than on the intrinsic difficulty of the movements (there are 15 to 18 depending on the methods), he explained that many strong climbers could claim success for a sufficient investment. He does not see the 9A in this way.

So is he essentially saying none of the individual moves are hard enough for it to be worth 9A overall? And that people will be able to do it by sieging it, so as to get it so dialled it no longer feels hard?

Also, love reading Google translate versions of this kind if article 

To hang a block 9A on its hunting board, on the other hand, it will be necessary to iron.

[remus]

French climber in downgrade shocker 

[andy popp]

So is he essentially saying none of the individual moves are hard enough for it to be worth 9A overall? And that people will be able to do it by sieging it, so as to get it so dialled it no longer feels hard?

Daniel Woods appears to be extremely close to doing Sleepwalker sit start - I wonder he'll dare go beyond 9A if he does it.

[gme]

French climber in downgrade shocker 

Google translate - the country who invented the grading system keeps it real.

[jwi]

French climber in downgrade shocker 

Google translate - the country who invented the grading system keeps it real.

Hahaha!

Also, love reading Google translate versions of this kind if article 

To hang a block 9A on its hunting board, on the other hand, it will be necessary to iron.

The better machine translation has become the more I hate it. That's the “uncanny valley” I guess: good enough to seem human like, but still too bad, too biased, and above all too lacking in semantic capabilities. I was more positive about MT when it turned out obvious garbage most of the time, now I hate it with a passion.

“Tableau de chasse” is an idiomatic expression akin to “trophy cabinet”, or why not “ticklist” in this context. Only a statistical model would choose the meaning “ironing” over “pass over” for “repasser” in the second part of the sentence.

[teestub]

Daniel Woods appears to be extremely close to doing Sleepwalker sit start - I wonder he'll dare go beyond 9A if he does it.

I’ve sort of been expecting a downgrade of the stand, given the flurry of ascents it’s had compared to other 8C+ in the states (think Hypnotised Minds has only had 2 repeats in 11 years) but that hasn’t happened.

Tableau de Chasse is a flipping awesome phrase!

[SA Chris]

Cool. Looking at the picture no literature was required either...

Google translate

Did you use a book under your knee pad like Simon?
Yes "Leaving" by Tina Seskis. A book that I had found in a book box and that I did not like very much! Thanks for the trick Simon!

Yet to see a "sans livre" ascent.

[36chambers]

Daniel Woods appears to be extremely close to doing Sleepwalker sit start - I wonder he'll dare go beyond 9A if he does it.

I’ve sort of been expecting a downgrade of the stand, given the flurry of ascents it’s had compared to other 8C+ in the states (think Hypnotised Minds has only had 2 repeats in 11 years) but that hasn’t happened.

I wonder if it would actually take that long for one of the new youths to repeat the sit assuming Daniel does it.

Sleepwalker has had a good number of ascents now, but I'm started to think standards are just that high nowadays. Jimmy, Woods, and Nalle (Nalle albeit with harder beta) all gave it 8C+. Those guys should know better than anyone. 

[Bradders]

Sleepwalker has had a good number of ascents now, but I'm started to think standards are just that high nowadays. Jimmy, Woods, and Nalle (Nalle albeit with harder beta) all gave it 8C+. Those guys should know better than anyone.

Yeah this. I did see a comment from Woods on his Insta where he'd intimated it might be slightly easier for the tall, but even then he seemed to suggest it was still 8C+.

[User deactivated.]

I feel like all these new up and comers should be stronger than those who came before, particularly with all the modern coaching, olympic preparation, training knowledge, youth and facilities. But when I see videos of Woods and Webb on rock, they do still seem to be a cut above, seemingly putting down 8C+ whenever they go on a trip. Or am I just buying into the Mellow propoganda machine?

[jwi]

[Nibile]

Yet to see a "sans livre" an ascent.

FTFY.

[Duma]

What nibs said

[SA Chris]

Gotcha.

de retour.