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Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi (Read 22356 times)

HaeMeS

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Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 08:37:30 pm
Strong Belgian climber Antoin Kaufman reported on his Insta feed Insta that even stronger Belgian Simon Lorenzi has done Big Island Sit: https://www.instagram.com/tonioclimbing/

Edit: Simon Lorenzi reported the story himself on Instagram as wellm https://www.instagram.com/simonlorenzi
« Last Edit: February 08, 2021, 09:08:00 pm by HaeMeS »

remus

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#1 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 08:47:44 pm
Big news! Jimmy Webb has put a lot of time in to this hasn't he? I thought Id heard rumours of 9A...

(Simon's posted it on his ig https://www.instagram.com/p/CLCxgJ2jDB1/)

Bradders

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#2 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 08:48:35 pm
Awesome, cool to see something this hard being done in Font.

And yep Jimmy Webb has put a few trips into it.

Duma

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#3 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 08:55:25 pm
Excellent news!

And top work the ukb grapevine, speediest news service around!

HaeMeS

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#4 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 09:04:19 pm
The Belgians seem to think Big Island is no harder than 8B+. They tend to downgrade a lot of the stuff they climb. Maybe an unintentional game of who’s the biggest downgrader, or a sort of national complex  ‘surely we can’t be that strong...’  :-\ ;)

jwi

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#5 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 09:13:55 pm
Big news!

Lucien Martinez says that the stand is 8B+, but not easier than that, for tall people.

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#6 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 09:21:34 pm
The Belgians seem to think Big Island is no harder than 8B+. They tend to downgrade a lot of the stuff they climb. Maybe an unintentional game of who’s the biggest downgrader, or a sort of national complex  ‘surely we can’t be that strong...’  :-\ ;)

I'm now mulling over Will Hunt's probable attitude to Trappist beer, chocolate, and waffles.

HaeMeS

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#7 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 09:23:04 pm
Big news!

Lucien Martinez says that the stand is 8B+, but not easier than that, for tall people.

Lorenzi is quite small, 167 cm, and thinks the stand is 8B+ as well. Kauffmann on the other hand is quite tall.

reeve

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#8 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 09:30:31 pm
The Belgians seem to think Big Island is no harder than 8B+. They tend to downgrade a lot of the stuff they climb. Maybe an unintentional game of who’s the biggest downgrader, or a sort of national complex  ‘surely we can’t be that strong...’  :-\ ;)

I'm now mulling over Will Hunt's probable attitude to Trappist beer, chocolate, and waffles.

"Rochefort 10? I tried that once several years ago and it's surely no more than 6%"

 ;D

remus

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#9 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 09:40:04 pm
It seems like pretty much everyone takes 8C for The Big Island, and climbing from the sit in to the start is ~8B+ according to Jimmy. So get your grade maths calculators out: 8B+ in to 8C with no rest = ?

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#10 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 10:05:31 pm
Sounds mega, after reading Jimmy's report on working it.

turnipturned

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#11 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 10:14:51 pm
It seems like pretty much everyone takes 8C for The Big Island, and climbing from the sit in to the start is ~8B+ according to Jimmy. So get your grade maths calculators out: 8B+ in to 8C with no rest = ?

(14+15+4)/2=16.5, so benchmark v16/8C+

kelvin

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#12 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 10:51:28 pm
It seems like pretty much everyone takes 8C for The Big Island, and climbing from the sit in to the start is ~8B+ according to Jimmy. So get your grade maths calculators out: 8B+ in to 8C with no rest = ?

(14+15+4)/2=16.5, so benchmark v16/8C+

AHH. So this is what I sent to O level Math for.

mrjonathanr

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#13 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 11:16:38 pm
It seems like pretty much everyone takes 8C for The Big Island, and climbing from the sit in to the start is ~8B+ according to Jimmy. So get your grade maths calculators out: 8B+ in to 8C with no rest = ?
= 16BC+. Simples.

36chambers

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#14 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 08, 2021, 11:44:45 pm
I'm well psyched by this!

https://www.grimper.com/news-simon-lorenzi-reussit-big-island-assis-deuxieme-9a-bloc-monde-vient-il-tomber

Apparently the sitter only adds "solid 8A+", according to the link above, so probably still 8C according to Turnips formula... ;D

Here's Hojer doing some of the lower moves a few years ago

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPSPxsXhzQJ/

monkey boy

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#15 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 09, 2021, 07:06:03 am
Jimmy thought Big Island was 8B+ and climbing into it from the sit was harder than the stand itself but probably still 8B+.

iwasmexican

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#16 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 09, 2021, 10:11:39 am
Big news!

Lucien Martinez says that the stand is 8B+, but not easier than that, for tall people.

Lorenzi is quite small, 167 cm, and thinks the stand is 8B+ as well. Kauffmann on the other hand is quite tall.


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#17 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 09, 2021, 10:29:46 am
There is a video of Simon Lorenzi on his IG of a problem next to No Kapote Only from a few days ago, and on the photographers feed there is a photo of Charles Albert working The Island with them all, so I'm sure Simoh Lorenzi would have tried them both.  It would be interesting to hear how he thinks they compare.

remus

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#18 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 09, 2021, 10:31:11 am
Jimmy thought Big Island was 8B+ and climbing into it from the sit was harder than the stand itself but probably still 8B+.

Wonder why he changed his mind as he took 8C for it on 8a.

More broadly, I find the grade deflation on this thing pretty confusing. DG did the high start in 2008 and gave it 8C which was then downgraded to 8B+ following repeats. Then the low start was added that apparently bumped it up to 8C (according to the ~15 people who have logged it on 8a.nu), but now that's only 8B+? And adding an 8A+/B/B+ in to the start of that gets you whatever. Someone needs to stick their neck out and give it a big number or 8C is gonna be the new 6c.

andy popp

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#19 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 09, 2021, 10:55:18 am
but now that's only 8B+?

One of the people to downgrade it this week said on Insta: "About the grade, it would be aesy to achieve one of my bigest dreams taking it as an 8C but it would’nt be fair... I think it’s more appropriate to grade it 8B+," even though he's not climbed 8B+ before and it took him 15-20 days? Smacks of competitive downgrading to me.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2021, 11:13:28 am by andy popp »

spidermonkey09

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#20 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 09, 2021, 11:00:16 am
If its 'only' 8B+ why has it taken so long to get done? Doesn't Jimmy Webb eat 8B+ for breakfast?


Will Hunt

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#22 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 09, 2021, 11:07:45 am
Smack of competitive downgrading to me.

Tell this amateur I'll see him at Paris 2024  :boxing:

Scouse D

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#23 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 09, 2021, 12:00:28 pm
but now that's only 8B+?

One of the people to downgrade it this week said on Insta: "About the grade, it would be aesy to achieve one of my bigest dreams taking it as an 8C but it would’nt be fair... I think it’s more appropriate to grade it 8B+," even though he's not climbed 8B+ before and it took him 15-20 days? Smacks of competitive downgrading to me.

All these fellas will have watched the million videos of the Big Island and trained for the those moves specifically. It doesn't surprise me that someone who hasn't climbed 8B+ can climb the Island.
Doesn't make the Island not 8C.
Doesn't make that climber an 8C climber either.
 Makes them an Island climber.

andy popp

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#24 Re: Big Island Sit climbed by Simon Lorenzi
February 09, 2021, 12:07:18 pm
but now that's only 8B+?

One of the people to downgrade it this week said on Insta: "About the grade, it would be aesy to achieve one of my bigest dreams taking it as an 8C but it would’nt be fair... I think it’s more appropriate to grade it 8B+," even though he's not climbed 8B+ before and it took him 15-20 days? Smacks of competitive downgrading to me.

It doesn't surprise me that someone who hasn't climbed 8B+ can climb the Island.

Nor me. I'm just wondering what yardstick he's using to declare 8B+ is the appropriate grade?

 

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