[spidermonkey09]

Off work this week (using up leftover leave from last year).

M - Lovely weather but ended up going for a walk instead of climbing  Nice to be outside though. Max hangs in the evening.1.25kg assist, consistent 4/5 second hangs, especially on left arm. Feels pretty plausible in the short term. Stability hangs + 6.25kg.

T - rest. Think I did some stretching.

W - Shining Cliff condensed. Went home and did max hangs. Some good, solid 6 second hangs on left arm. Right arm a bit off the pace in comparison. Stability hangs + 7.5kg, felt hard. Completed Bring Sally Up pressup challenge (would be interested how gollum/liam go on this!)

T - Anderson Hangs. 3.75kg base weight, felt hard but not unmanageable. Abripperx after, followed by stretching.

F - Went for a wet walk around Bradley Edge and Turningstone. Birdsong block looks great. Jungle bashed through the wood to find Bradley Tor which looked fun as well. Nice to get out the house.

S - rested.

S - Stanton Moor. Good circuit. Tried Brads Rib which felt plausible but very spanned to reach the top. Think it would have gone if I had spent all day on it but felt like it could go either way so kept moving. Found Brads Wall which felt nails; sacked it off almost straightaway. Brutal Arete/Spare Rib was mostly dry with the seam at the top iced up and some wet bits on the top out. It looked feasible so gave it a go. Got up to the last move a few times but the top looked miles away; is there an approved short person sequence on this? All the videos appear to lay one on for the top from reasonable feet. Not sure whether people use the seam for hands which might help me in the future. Did the very good Big Brother arete which required some involved padding and spotting before going to find the other Brads Arete, which was superb. Good day but absolutely freezing. Ate a large portion of chips followed by a large dinner without ever feeling particularly full; not sure I took enough food!

Good week despite the weather sandbagging my attempts to go outside. Any beta for Brutal Arete appreciated as keen to finish it off at some point.

[User deactivated.]

I think I got into position that way, but think I went with my left backhanded into the crack with my right sort of side pulling/undercutting on a ripple on the square. It’s not absolutely impossible it was my left foot in the square. I remember it being very contorted and powerful.

I apologise for not being able to remember the beta, generally I can’t remember 15 seconds later, never mind 15 years and I struggle with the whole left and right thing, much to my climbing partners’ hilarity. “ move your left hand, no your other left hand”. It’s like everything I feels on sight for me.

This method sounds more up my street to be honest! I can picture left foot on and going over left hand.

Completed Bring Sally Up pressup challenge (would be interested how gollum/liam go on this!)

Aware me 

Out of curiosity how many sets do you tend to do on your max hangs? I would have assumed that 5s hangs would need a lot of sets to get the necessary volume in, but perhaps doing the repeater sessions as well is doing the volume part? You seem to be making good progress so i'm tempted to try alternating short duration max hangs (with 2 arms as i'm way off 1 arm hangs) and repeaters. I've never actually done a block of repeaters!

[gollum]

Completed Bring Sally Up pressup challenge (would be interested how gollum/liam go on this!)

Its something I try every now and then, I have nearly done it but never quite completed it. Holding the bottom position is what does for me. Got a plan to keep trying it a bit more regular as think a significant part is in my head rather than elsewhere and I give in because its hard and goes on for ages.

[spidermonkey09]

Find 'Flower' by Moby on Youtube and get stuck in!

Re max hangs, I always used to do 10 second hangs x 5 as per the Moon protocol here (). I found I hit a wall when I started doing this on one arm hangs so switched to 7 second hangs. Since then I've made quite consistent progress, usually managing to gradually increase the duration of the hangs from 2/3 seconds up t o the full 7 seconds. I never move to the next weight until I've done at least one full set of 5 hangs of 7 seconds on each arm with good form.

The volume is an interesting one. Part of the reason I moved to 7 sec max hangs was I felt it was counter intuitive to do a longer duration hang with a max load than I was doing with my repeaters. I felt like I was just getting better at doing more of the longer, lighter hangs and not getting proper strength gains. Repeaters may well have helped; if you don't go mad from boredom they are really effective for me. I've been doing them for years on and off so am amazed by people who have never done them!

[User deactivated.]

Keen to give this a go. With these low duration hangs are you dropping off right as you're about to fail or leaving a second or 2 in the bag?

[spidermonkey09]

Right up to failure for me. I feel like 7 seconds is pretty standard for max hangs though, I've seen programs from 5 seconds with 10 usually the upper limit. Maybe that's a misconception?

[Coops_13]

M: Lower body stretching. Push. Bench press up to 205lb X3 *3sets. Incline press, shoulder press, front and lateral raise. 10 mins incline walk

T: DBC. Hangs 18mm 10s +45lb X5. Boulders up to M+ (more than last time) with attempts on a couple of H-. Max weighted pull-ups crimpd test, got to +100lb X2reps. Front lever pulls X6, BW dips X10 *3sets. Lower body stretching

W: Legs. Leg press, calf raises, hamstring curls, knee extensions *3sets. Knee Exercises *2sets. Lower body stretching

T: DBC. Still feeling tired from Tuesday - not a good session. Hangs 18mm 10s +45lb X5. Boulders up to M+ including some slabs. Weighted pull-ups X5 *5 +85lb. Knee exercises, lower body stretching

S: Satellites, Flatirons. Hiked in and got on Face Full of Brian, hard V8 I had tried before. Feeling nowhere near, had a good rest and fired it off. Went and had a play on Captain Hook V9 - not strong enough. Finished the day failing to do a sharp V6 lip traverse...


S: Hungover, went out to Vanilla Ice boulder with mate. Finished the boulder, doing two slightly contrived linkups involving some really nice moves - Vanilla Dredd V7 and Doctor Dredd V8.

Should have gone home at this point. Went with mate to another spot where his wife was and tried this horrible vert V6. Failed again and again, should have given up. Tried one last time (after many 'one last times') and while pulling on the largest hold at the start, had a large pop in my finger. NNFN. Loudest pop I've ever had. Sat there in disbelief. Very upset and pissed off.

Pop is a new finger injury on RH to compliment the ones on my L. I was hungover and second day on but no warning signs as I felt fine and I was effectively pulling on a jug when it went. Getting an ultrasound scan tomorrow to diagnose - hope it isn't a full rupture as pain not too bad but never had a pop that loud. Fuck.

[36chambers]

Pop is a new finger injury on RH to compliment the ones on my L. I was hungover and second day on but no warning signs as I felt fine and I was effectively pulling on a jug when it went. Getting an ultrasound scan tomorrow to diagnose - hope it isn't a full rupture as pain not too bad but never had a pop that loud. Fuck.

ffs Coops

[spidermonkey09]

ffs Coops

My exact reaction as well 

[SA Chris]

Not good mate.

Is the Flatirons rock the same coarse sandstone as on Flagstaff Mountain, that they call gritstone, but isn't?

[Coops_13]

Is the Flatirons rock the same coarse sandstone as on Flagstaff Mountain, that they call gritstone, but isn't?

Similar - less chossy and not quite as sharp

[SA Chris]

Ah OK cheers.

[tomtom]

If its any consolation Coops - of my 4 or 5 pulley injuries - the one that made the most noise ended up being the quickest to heal... sounded like someone loudly snapping a pencil.

[nai]

Bench press up to 205lb 
Hangs 18mm 10s +45lb
Max weighted pull-ups crimpd test, got to +100lb X2reps.
Front lever pulls X6,
Weighted pull-ups X5 *5 +85lb.

had a play on Captain Hook V9 - not strong enough.

 

unlucky with the injury

[Nibile]

Power Club
Mon - snatch rack pulls, overhead squat, glutes, Lattice Edge in between, 10 sets from -4 to +4.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board, tried one problem, then one foot bouldering + 8kg on P1. One lap on left foot. Bad skin. Flapper repoened. Total waste of time of a session.
Thu - snatch rack pulls 5x5 up to 100 kg. Bar work. TBDL 3x5 up to 120 kg.
Fri - rest.
Sat - loaded carries, wheel, front leve pulls session.
Sun - farmer's 100 kg, overhead 40 kg, 30/30 x12' of work (24' total session).

[Duncan Disorderly]

Earlier than last week still late tho... Dog ate my training diary or summat...

M: Curbar - Went with GF to get her psyched - cold and neither of us could get warm - dog house for me! Dropped her home and nipped up to Blackberry wall for a crimp fest... Really absorbing, fingers felt worked!
T: Shoulder stuff
W: Fingerboard - Back on it first time properly since tweak. BM repeaters - 2 sets or 4 reps = 4 finger HC, 4 finger OH, 3 finger drag, mid 2 drag.
T: Shoulder stuff
F: Blackberry wall - damp afternoon so slippery feet meant had to really pull - nice! Evening max hang benchmarking sesh - Half Crimp on BM 2K slots (30mm?) 12s @ +17KG Ran out of weight to add so dropped to 19mm woodgrips edge 7s @ +14Kg - Spot on! Will benchmark again in 4 weeks and see what gives. Stretching and Shoulder Stuff - Worked! Hammered on Ardbeg 10 Christmas whiskey - ace!
S: Nowt
S: Horseshoe in -2 temps - Missing climbing routes so much led me here against my better judgement. Just did a few easy 5's and 6's to keep me eye in... 2/3 or the way up each route I lost all feeling in me fingers, still loved being out even though the routes were pretty shit and the subsequent hot aches were agonising! Roast dinner and red wine!

Good tough week after the previous easy one - great to get out even if it was just for easy stuff and pottering. Felt like I regained a semblance of normailty for a few hrs which did the head the world of good. Interested to see how much progress I can make from Friday's benchmarks (pretty mediocre I know but the good thing about being weak is that you can only get stronger - or injured! )... Ace!

[SA Chris]

Yo ever considered warming up at home? After discussion on here I'm a convert.

[JohnM]

M - Rest

T - Trail run 10km 300m. Shoulder stability + core (0.5 units), 20 × travelling pull ups, 5 × 2 sling assisted one armers, 5 x 1 pulley assisted one armers (- 9 kg) (1 unit).

W - Trail run 5km 150m. Max. pulls. 5 x 27kg lattice rung, 5 x 15kg BM 2K lower outside edges (1 unit). Foam rolling and shoulder weights (0.5 units).

T - Trail run 5km 150m. NG PE session on Lattice rung. Over estimated my ability and took off 10kg even though I had not done this set for ages and took off 11kg when I was doing it every week. Destroyed my forearms after 2 sets and only made it halfway through the 3rd set of 4. (0.5 units).

F - Pulley assited one arms hangs BM middle edge × 5. Solid set.

S - Drove to the Queyras.

S - AM 12km x-country skiing. PM 12km x-country skiing.

[nai]

M Burbage South. Blinking freezing in the wind. did a few easy fillers I've not done before to warm up then managed Dog's Arse LH sit. King line obvs. Got so cold doing that it took another 30 minutes to defrost then five minutes into next attempts at climbing was frozen again so just went home.

T Mono pickups. BW IYTs on floor.  Walk to butchers and grocers, uphill farmers carry on way back with about 10kg per side

W few weights and BW exercises with nipper for PE  big lower body stretch eve

Th mono pickups. BW IYTs

F 30 mins LI. Short interrupted stretch

S Family walk

S mono pickups
Family walk

[Duncan Disorderly]

Yo ever considered warming up at home? After discussion on here I'm a convert.

Interested... TBH I'd never even considered it (although now you mention it I do recall it being what wads did back in the day)... Do you find you can stay warm with a drive and a walk in? What about in a draughty van with a shit heater?

[SA Chris]

Yeah, even a 20 min warm up indoors seems to last for a few hours. my approach is normally a 20 min walk though, but with a  decent down jacket, gloves, and two pads I am definitely still feeling more warmed up than I would!

[shark]

I find the main benefit is that my fingers are already recruited so I can start pulling harder sooner when I get to the crag

[SA Chris]

I resurrected an old thread