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Unexpectedly Banging Blocs (Read 5525 times)

andy popp

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#25 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 27, 2021, 05:20:30 pm
You could probably drop all of Pex Hill and the wall climbs at Harmer's Wood into this thread. I've always liked a blank-looking wall but can understand that they aren't so striking to some. The quality of the climbing though: my God.

I've wondering all day whether to just post a list of Cheshire obscurities, The Dark Ark being top of said list of bland looking walls.

steveri

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#26 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 27, 2021, 05:24:52 pm
You could probably drop all of Pex Hill and the wall climbs at Harmer's Wood into this thread. I've always liked a blank-looking wall but can understand that they aren't so striking to some. The quality of the climbing though: my God.

I'd add the delightful Harold's Wall on Helsby Barrel. It might just be spectacularly me-centric but the reach for the sloper below the top is almost too far and needs a semi-dynamic tippy-toe teeter. Latching it just so at the point where you start to fall backwards, blows a satisfying raspberry to gravity.

Edit: just when it was looking Yorkshire centric, the balance rocks back towards Cheshire obscura :)

moose

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#27 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 27, 2021, 05:44:07 pm
Nice thread - I was going to suggest something similar but was delayed by wondering if it'd be apt or sexist to refer to such problems as "Jolie laide" - a woman whose face is attractive despite having ugly features!

tomtom

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#28 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 27, 2021, 05:44:36 pm
blank walls are a line in themselves to me and shouldn’t be in this thread. I don’t think they’re bland at all!

A blank wall with just the faintest ripple in it - or seam of tiny weaknesses...

andy popp

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#29 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 27, 2021, 05:56:28 pm
Edit: just when it was looking Yorkshire centric, the balance rocks back towards Cheshire obscura :)

I'm going to play my ace: Sufferer's Slab at Stonehouse Lane. Lump of quarried rock that looks like a big poo in a bit of scally wasteland in downtown Runcorn. Graffiti, old chipped holds, but this faint runnel is a beaut.   

steveri

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#30 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 27, 2021, 06:02:40 pm

I'm going to play my ace: Sufferer's Slab at Stonehouse Lane. Lump of quarried rock that looks like a big poo in a bit of scally wasteland in downtown Runcorn. Graffiti, old chipped holds, but this faint runnel is a beaut.

Excellent, been meaning to have a look at that lump for ages. Intrigued now, not least because it seems to be simultaneously 6a, 6C and 6C+ on ukc.

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#31 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 28, 2021, 10:30:52 am
I have a fairly low threshold for what counts as quality generally but I remember being really nicely surprised by how well Balls Test at Balsow climbs.

Fiend

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#32 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 28, 2021, 11:03:23 am
There's nowt surprising about that, apart from how previously underrated it was!

Fiend

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#33 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 29, 2021, 09:42:30 am
On the subject of which nothing on Cheshire sandstone should be on here as anyone with half a brain expects the climbing to be full-on bangage.

Here's another one: Terrible name ("All 14 8000m Peaks" FFS), shameless eliminate with an easy arete right next to you, and a light dusting of scrittle compared to the send-train-bellend-fest chalk-caked thuggery of the left hand prow of it...



...but then again it's a lovely shield of rock, good landing, great scenic mezzanine mercifully far above the Deliverance-polishing chodes, obvious pull-on, cool moves that manage to be balancy, positional, frictional and powerful, leading a skin-of-teeth fall onto a jug to finish - mwah :-*

Will Hunt

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#34 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 29, 2021, 10:43:32 am
Having seen it slagged so much by the the cognoscenti, I had pretty low expectations going into Toit du Cul de Chien. I was delighted to find that it's a classic for very good reason.

andy popp

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#35 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 29, 2021, 11:14:33 am

I'm going to play my ace: Sufferer's Slab at Stonehouse Lane. Lump of quarried rock that looks like a big poo in a bit of scally wasteland in downtown Runcorn. Graffiti, old chipped holds, but this faint runnel is a beaut.

Excellent, been meaning to have a look at that lump for ages. Intrigued now, not least because it seems to be simultaneously 6a, 6C and 6C+ on ukc.

It's not 6A! Climb straight up the faint runnel. Slight rules: don't use any chips (which are all low down) and don't use the pocket to the L on Stonehill Wall. It actually never occurred to me use it.

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#36 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 29, 2021, 11:35:43 am
Font is a complete gold mine for seemingly unpopular lines that are total belters. Trying to scrape a few from the memory banks, but one that stands out is a little arete opposite Le P'tit Toit at 95.2. Right in the middle of a super popular area, never has any chalk on it but a really cool, subtle couple of moves.

SA Chris

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#37 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 29, 2021, 11:48:46 am
Le Bossu at Canon too, and the prob just to the left

Scouse D

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#38 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 29, 2021, 11:51:27 am


Here's another one: Terrible name ("All 14 8000m Peaks" FFS), shameless eliminate with an easy arete right next to you, and a light dusting of scrittle compared to the send-train-bellend-fest chalk-caked thuggery of the left hand prow of it...



...but then again it's a lovely shield of rock, good landing, great scenic mezzanine mercifully far above the Deliverance-polishing chodes, obvious pull-on, cool moves that manage to be balancy, positional, frictional and powerful, leading a skin-of-teeth fall onto a jug to finish - mwah :-*
I was there when my mate Bogg did that. We tried to talk him out of the name but he thought it was a stroke of genius.

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#39 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 29, 2021, 12:25:57 pm
Can you kick Bogg in the cock please, ta  :yes:

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#40 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 29, 2021, 04:07:40 pm


Here's another one: Terrible name ("All 14 8000m Peaks" FFS), shameless eliminate with an easy arete right next to you, and a light dusting of scrittle compared to the send-train-bellend-fest chalk-caked thuggery of the left hand prow of it...



...but then again it's a lovely shield of rock, good landing, great scenic mezzanine mercifully far above the Deliverance-polishing chodes, obvious pull-on, cool moves that manage to be balancy, positional, frictional and powerful, leading a skin-of-teeth fall onto a jug to finish - mwah :-*
I was there when my mate Bogg did that. We tried to talk him out of the name but he thought it was a stroke of genius.

Knowing Bogg quite well, I'd say we got off quite lightly with that route name.

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#41 Re: Unexpectedly Banging Blocs
January 29, 2021, 04:48:53 pm
This one is well worth the very short walk in if you're in the market for a steep 6c prow. Much better than it's ultra obscurity suggests.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/carl_wark-893/toads_mouth_prow-444865

 

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