[Will Hunt]

The counter thread to the original (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31090.0.html). Which problems are overlooked, unattractive, unpopular, or otherwise disdainful which you found to be unexpectedly delightful?

[User deactivated.]

I predict there will be plenty of limestone non-lines in this thread, but in terms of standalone blocks, I thought the drey at Caley climbed great despite looking pretty uninspiring.

Also at Caley, the un-named problem to the left of New Jerusalem that inexplicably gets 7C on UKC, but is perhaps 1 grade harder than New Jerusalem. Equally as good but has 6 ascents on UKC vs 365 for NJ.

[tommytwotone]

Sure there's more, but one off the top of my head...

Fall In (6a) at Almscliff - the bulging arete right of Morrell's Wall, taking the slotty crimp thing in your left hand. Really good, and I've never seen anyone else bother with it.

[HarryBD]

I predict there will be plenty of limestone non-lines in this thread, but in terms of standalone blocks, I thought the drey at Caley climbed great despite looking pretty uninspiring.

Also at Caley, the un-named problem to the left of New Jerusalem that inexplicably gets 7C on UKC, but is perhaps 1 grade harder than New Jerusalem. Equally as good but has 6 ascents on UKC vs 365 for NJ.

Another one at Caley next to New Jerusalem: Cruel Crack. Some horrifically sharp looking pebbles in there but you can just place your jams carefully to avoid them and layback a couple of moves. I think it endeared itself to me as I flashed it while Rich could barely get off the ground and tore holes in the back of his hands.

[mrjonathanr]

There's a problem at la Pedriza, can't find the name at the minute... it's a lone porthole /scoop about 18'' wide sitting 10' up a wall.  You take a running jump and mantel. Looks daft; it's brilliant.

[HarryBD]

There's a triangular slab below Parker at Shipley Glen that has a big rising ramp from R - L. The eliminate traverse that ignores this staying low and using a small flake that feels like it's about to snap has some brilliant movement on it.

[tomtom]

Expect you may get quite a few shuffles and lowballs in here!

Baldstones Traverse. Looks distinctly average - but has some great moves in it (and two cruxes). Also just starts to test endurance enough to get fingers to start uncurling and get you worrying, but not enough to make it an endurance fest.

[Will Hunt]

There's a triangular slab below Parker at Shipley Glen that has a big rising ramp from R - L. The eliminate traverse that ignores this staying low and using a small flake that feels like it's about to snap has some brilliant movement on it.

I can't think whether I've done that. I'll have to do that next time I'm there.


I'm sure I can think of more, but Racing Raymond is one that stands out to me. Quarried arete that doesn't get much press, in a small scruffy quarry. The movement on it is perfection.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHClSMvjYLB/

Everything on this slab that you can pass on an approach to Simon's Seat. Practically unheard of in the region, but a stunning collection of highball slabs.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BqVkItihF0N/

Addio Arete at Ruin Bank Woods. Completely without any hype. Looks a bit green and tatty but just insanely good.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BiAgnXZDiaZ/

Loads and loads of stuff in the 5s and 6s at Earl. The quality is not exactly unknown, but I don't think there's many places you can have such an enjoyable warm up. It's a circuit which doesn't seem to be on the radar for most 5th and 6th grade crushers. Case in point would be Ron's Groove. A 3-star 5+ Ron Fawcett problem which has one other tick besides mine in the UKC logbooks 

[SA Chris]

Everything on this slab that you can pass on an approach to Simon's Seat. Practically unheard of in the region, but a stunning collection of highball slabs.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BqVkItihF0N/

That looks amazing, just my cup of tea..

[Danny]

Expect you may get quite a few shuffles and lowballs in here!

Yep. Years ago, when I was first getting into climbing, I remember seeing some boulderers trying Fear of a Slopey Planet in the Pass. I burst out laughing at the very sight, which struck me as massively comical against a backdrop of bigger boulders and grand crags. Anyway, about a year later, after getting into bouldering a bit more, I went over to do it. I ended up really enjoying the holds, rock texture and movement. It suddenly struck me as better than everything on the Cromlech boulders, despite being a bit arse-draggy.

[Ged]

Gravitron at the beach at Ansteys Cove.  Looks like a bum dragging shuffle on sharp holds, and kind of is, but is also an excellent PE test with consistent moves and a satisfying top

[Fiend]

Radium Traverse, Woodhouse. Looked like, and indeed was, crabwise ledge shuffling with vaguely eliminate handholds, but turned out to be an epic voyage of shuffling, teetering, sweating and balancing. I felt older, if not wiser, by the end of it.

[Alex-the-Alex]

This is a much more positive thread! There's so many bumscraping 3 move wonders that have turned out to be so much better than they look. Ahab at Brimham came to mind. Great movement and lovely slopers all squeezed in to 2m. Voyeur at Plantation similarly doesn't look much but great to climb.

Lots of unsung gems too, but Brown Beck has a whole crag of them. Mariachi, Lunacy, Controlled Burning and that whole wall. And it's only a 40 min stroll. Does a whole crag count?

[tomtom]

This is a much more positive thread!

Yes - absolutely. Excellent.

[Ross Barker]

I was pleasantly surprised by Snapper at Nesscliffe. Named not because of snappy rock, but snappy fingers.

Doesn't look like much but has really interesting moves on shallow monos and undercuts!

[Bonjoy]

There are so many good unsung probs, hard to pick out particular besties.
As a general rule I tend to find the probs I enjoy the most have a few notable ‘flaws’ by the exacting standards of purity people seem to like to apply. Lines with perfect aesthetics, rock, landing, a strong inescapable line, well defined start and finish – are so vanishingly rare that they’re never likely to have moves as attractive as the packaging. The inevitable polish and undergrade don’t tend to help much either. Whereas there are so many ‘slight second’ problems which have amazing moves if you can think beyond the crouch start, eliminate rule, tight line, or whatever. There’s nothing more blandifying than an insistence on everything being just so.

[dunnyg]

Time, and time after time, both at west chevin. Fewer than 10 ticks.
Time is a cool 6A boulder problem arete, with high feet. Feels like it should be way harder, but somehow just works. Continuing to top out gets you an e1 tick, but it is easier. A little un nerving and you can escape the top if you want, but a good feeling when you go for it.

Everyone walks past to do eat the light, or warms up on the oposite wall!

[SA Chris]

Brown Beck has a whole crag of them. Mariachi, Lunacy, Controlled Burning and that whole wall. And it's only a 40 min stroll. Does a whole crag count?

I had a brilliant day there, fantastic variety of height and features for a small(ish) crag. Did a few new things too, which were added on smartboysonline when it still existed, but never got into the new guide. 40 mins is roadside by Scottish standards!

[Will Hunt]

Sypeland has a few belters which are pretty under the radar. Ramble On escaped notice until 2010. I seem to remember it being about as perfect an arête as you're likely to get, bounding a broad chimney-crack effort. A proud height. Techy wizardry. Bliss.

Tiggers Can Fly. A Jerry Peel problem I think. Scrittly as hell but so worth rolling through it. Between you and me there's a little box on top with a notepad and an old blunt pencil in it - left there by the late, great Tony Barley. Signed by him, Jerry Peel, Tom Peckitt and not many others. A really special place full of old ghosts.

[mrjonathanr]

Elephants eye at Baldstones. Inoccuous looking variant with a brilliant, committing  and improbable feeling crux move. Little gem.

[nai]

Did that recently, disappointed that the start is up the Ear but that was soon dispelled by the move out of it. Then a bit of a spicy pad to finish.  So good.

[Andy F]

 Cosine Alternative at Pex Hill. The counter diagonal to the permanently popular Bermuda Triangle is equally as good but very rarely gets done. 11 logged ascents Vs 67 for Bermuda.

[mrjonathanr]

Elephants eye at Baldstones. Inoccuous looking variant with a brilliant, committing  and improbable feeling crux move. Little gem.

innocuous ffs.
Cosine alternative is a good problem, can't compete with the first move of Bermuda though. To be fair, everything at Pex a) looks intriguingly technical and b) climbs much better than it looks.

(Except MacArthur Park, which is rubbish)

[Will Hunt]

You could probably drop all of Pex Hill and the wall climbs at Harmer's Wood into this thread. I've always liked a blank-looking wall but can understand that they aren't so striking to some. The quality of the climbing though: my God.

[Andy F]

Elephants eye at Baldstones. Inoccuous looking variant with a brilliant, committing  and improbable feeling crux move. Little gem.

innocuous ffs.
Cosine alternative is a good problem, can't compete with the first move of Bermuda though.

It's not as hard, but more sustained climbing all the way.

[andy popp]

You could probably drop all of Pex Hill and the wall climbs at Harmer's Wood into this thread. I've always liked a blank-looking wall but can understand that they aren't so striking to some. The quality of the climbing though: my God.

I've wondering all day whether to just post a list of Cheshire obscurities, The Dark Ark being top of said list of bland looking walls.

[steveri]

You could probably drop all of Pex Hill and the wall climbs at Harmer's Wood into this thread. I've always liked a blank-looking wall but can understand that they aren't so striking to some. The quality of the climbing though: my God.

I'd add the delightful Harold's Wall on Helsby Barrel. It might just be spectacularly me-centric but the reach for the sloper below the top is almost too far and needs a semi-dynamic tippy-toe teeter. Latching it just so at the point where you start to fall backwards, blows a satisfying raspberry to gravity.

Edit: just when it was looking Yorkshire centric, the balance rocks back towards Cheshire obscura

[moose]

Nice thread - I was going to suggest something similar but was delayed by wondering if it'd be apt or sexist to refer to such problems as "Jolie laide" - a woman whose face is attractive despite having ugly features!

[tomtom]

blank walls are a line in themselves to me and shouldn’t be in this thread. I don’t think they’re bland at all!

A blank wall with just the faintest ripple in it - or seam of tiny weaknesses...

[andy popp]

Edit: just when it was looking Yorkshire centric, the balance rocks back towards Cheshire obscura

I'm going to play my ace: Sufferer's Slab at Stonehouse Lane. Lump of quarried rock that looks like a big poo in a bit of scally wasteland in downtown Runcorn. Graffiti, old chipped holds, but this faint runnel is a beaut.   

[steveri]

I'm going to play my ace: Sufferer's Slab at Stonehouse Lane. Lump of quarried rock that looks like a big poo in a bit of scally wasteland in downtown Runcorn. Graffiti, old chipped holds, but this faint runnel is a beaut.

Excellent, been meaning to have a look at that lump for ages. Intrigued now, not least because it seems to be simultaneously 6a, 6C and 6C+ on ukc.

[bolehillbilly]

I have a fairly low threshold for what counts as quality generally but I remember being really nicely surprised by how well Balls Test at Balsow climbs.

[Fiend]

There's nowt surprising about that, apart from how previously underrated it was!

[Fiend]

On the subject of which nothing on Cheshire sandstone should be on here as anyone with half a brain expects the climbing to be full-on bangage.

Here's another one: Terrible name ("All 14 8000m Peaks" FFS), shameless eliminate with an easy arete right next to you, and a light dusting of scrittle compared to the send-train-bellend-fest chalk-caked thuggery of the left hand prow of it...



...but then again it's a lovely shield of rock, good landing, great scenic mezzanine mercifully far above the Deliverance-polishing chodes, obvious pull-on, cool moves that manage to be balancy, positional, frictional and powerful, leading a skin-of-teeth fall onto a jug to finish - mwah

[Will Hunt]

Having seen it slagged so much by the the cognoscenti, I had pretty low expectations going into Toit du Cul de Chien. I was delighted to find that it's a classic for very good reason.

[andy popp]

I'm going to play my ace: Sufferer's Slab at Stonehouse Lane. Lump of quarried rock that looks like a big poo in a bit of scally wasteland in downtown Runcorn. Graffiti, old chipped holds, but this faint runnel is a beaut.

Excellent, been meaning to have a look at that lump for ages. Intrigued now, not least because it seems to be simultaneously 6a, 6C and 6C+ on ukc.

It's not 6A! Climb straight up the faint runnel. Slight rules: don't use any chips (which are all low down) and don't use the pocket to the L on Stonehill Wall. It actually never occurred to me use it.

[remus]

Font is a complete gold mine for seemingly unpopular lines that are total belters. Trying to scrape a few from the memory banks, but one that stands out is a little arete opposite Le P'tit Toit at 95.2. Right in the middle of a super popular area, never has any chalk on it but a really cool, subtle couple of moves.

[SA Chris]

Le Bossu at Canon too, and the prob just to the left

[Scouse D]

Here's another one: Terrible name ("All 14 8000m Peaks" FFS), shameless eliminate with an easy arete right next to you, and a light dusting of scrittle compared to the send-train-bellend-fest chalk-caked thuggery of the left hand prow of it...



...but then again it's a lovely shield of rock, good landing, great scenic mezzanine mercifully far above the Deliverance-polishing chodes, obvious pull-on, cool moves that manage to be balancy, positional, frictional and powerful, leading a skin-of-teeth fall onto a jug to finish - mwah

I was there when my mate Bogg did that. We tried to talk him out of the name but he thought it was a stroke of genius.

[Fiend]

Can you kick Bogg in the cock please, ta 

[Ged]

Here's another one: Terrible name ("All 14 8000m Peaks" FFS), shameless eliminate with an easy arete right next to you, and a light dusting of scrittle compared to the send-train-bellend-fest chalk-caked thuggery of the left hand prow of it...



...but then again it's a lovely shield of rock, good landing, great scenic mezzanine mercifully far above the Deliverance-polishing chodes, obvious pull-on, cool moves that manage to be balancy, positional, frictional and powerful, leading a skin-of-teeth fall onto a jug to finish - mwah

I was there when my mate Bogg did that. We tried to talk him out of the name but he thought it was a stroke of genius.

Knowing Bogg quite well, I'd say we got off quite lightly with that route name.

[Bonjoy]

This one is well worth the very short walk in if you're in the market for a steep 6c prow. Much better than it's ultra obscurity suggests.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/carl_wark-893/toads_mouth_prow-444865