[Fiend]

Straight from moose's antlers, quite a good topic I think. Boulder problems that look good, sound good, are good in theory, and disproportionately horrible in reality, for reasons to be argued over below.

First Arete, Ilkley - is already on the list (and I suspect Yorkshire will feature quite highly in the "looks great, nasty rock" stakes, unlike say Peak Lime that is reassuringly honestly appalling from the start). But it's currently in second place behind....

The Edge Problem, Cromlech Boulders - great walk in, good boulder, nice sheer face, decent rock, bit of height....and trying to pull on that god-fucking-awful finger-morpho minge-slot is the second worst move in Wales (after the crux of Cenatoph Corner, looming above).



Let the festivities begin....

[andy popp]

Soft on the G; nice shapes, horrible climbing.

[Fiend]

Good call! Have tried and failed to hustle my way up that in "cheating conditions", and just wasn't liking it much. Maybe if you're strong enough to do 8Ball it's a jaunty finish??

[Danny]

Literally everything on SW moorland granite that is considered classic. Pulling on the rock is invariably grim, even when the features and moves are great. Especially true if you're 80kg+. I think I pulled onto the Wave about three times before going through. It's not so much that I think these things are categorically shit, but instead that they can never be truly classic (in the national sense) if you place any value in the ergonomics and aesthetics of holds. Which I very much do.

[Fiend]

Could see that one - dismissing the entire area - coming a mile off! 

[tomtom]

Good call! Have tried and failed to hustle my way up that in "cheating conditions", and just wasn't liking it much. Maybe if you're strong enough to do 8Ball it's a jaunty finish??

Indeed. Sotg looks like a lovely problem. I can’t judge how well it climbs as I’ve still not done it (refuse the very tall standing on a mat getting left foot on the face way) so can’t really comment except I don’t like it

[JamieG]

Possibly a controversial pick. I always think Not To Be Taken Away at Stanage is a disappointment. Looks fantastic, but just doesn't climbs well. Basically a very tricky and frustrating start (if you don't French it) and then a diagonal shuffle on better and better holds to the top. It's not really bad, but I think it is massively overrated considering its classic status.

[tomtom]

Sulky Little Boys.

[Coops_13]

Possibly a controversial pick. I always think Not To Be Taken Away at Stanage is a disappointment. Looks fantastic, but just doesn't climbs well. Basically a very tricky and frustrating start (if you don't French it) and then a diagonal shuffle on better and better holds to the top. It's not really bad, but I think it is massively overrated considering its classic status.

I’m in the same boat as you. I think problems that are disjointed in their styles aren’t that great. Autobot at RMNP is another example - it still doesn’t deserve to be anywhere near this list though

[Danny]

Could see that one - dismissing the entire area - coming a mile off! 

It was only yesterday that I was ripping the shit out of my palms on an amazing unclimbed lip up on Bodmin. I'm an enthusiast, but I do think the best coastal offerings in the region are truly in a different league of quality.

[tommytwotone]

Possibly a controversial pick. I always think Not To Be Taken Away at Stanage is a disappointment. Looks fantastic, but just doesn't climbs well. Basically a very tricky and frustrating start (if you don't French it) and then a diagonal shuffle on better and better holds to the top. It's not really bad, but I think it is massively overrated considering its classic status.

Preach on brother.

As a shortarse I've literally only stuck the first move once in my life, and that was the time I did it.

[Bradders]

Ooh fun, thanks Fiend / Moose for ruining today's productivity.

Not To Be Taken Away at Stanage

Was going to mention this.

AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel. Amazing block, good line straight up the middle through the steepness. Classic status. But holy hell that pocket thing on the ramp is so flipping grim!

[cofe]

AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel.

Oh no! This is on my list for the spring/summer if/when we're finally allowed to travel properly again.

[Bradders]

AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel.

Oh no! This is on my list for the spring/summer if/when we're finally allowed to travel properly again.

Ha sorry to disappoint! It's a good problem in every other sense, but take plenty of tape as I remember having to completely mummify my right index finger to make it bearable.

[Danny]

Ooh fun, thanks Fiend / Moose for ruining today's productivity.

Not To Be Taken Away at Stanage

Was going to mention this.

AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel. Amazing block, good line straight up the middle through the steepness. Classic status. But holy hell that pocket thing on the ramp is so flipping grim!

It's ok *only if* you specifically tape your index finger for that move. 

[JamieG]

Sulky Little Boys.

It didn't get the name for nothing. And I though you were tall tomtom. You should have no excuses. 

Certainly a very frustrating problem, but a nice looking line.

[yetix]

edit never mind others had said the same thing

[tomtom]

Sulky Little Boys.

It didn't get the name for nothing. And I though you were tall tomtom. You should have no excuses. 

Certainly a very frustrating problem, but a nice looking line.

Reach helps at first - but then lank gets in the way when trying to paste your toes bunched up on nothingnesses on the face...

[JamieG]

Sulky Little Boys.

It didn't get the name for nothing. And I though you were tall tomtom. You should have no excuses. 

Certainly a very frustrating problem, but a nice looking line.

Reach helps at first - but then lank gets in the way when trying to paste your toes bunched up on nothingnesses on the face...

Haha, I see you are an experienced climber. Always have a good excuse on hand. 

[cheque]

As someone who once did the start of NTBTA fairly easily, jumped off as my partner was literally heading back to the car with his mats, never got round to doing it again then ruled myself out of bouldering (particularly highballs) for good, this “NTBTA’s shit” talk should be music to my ears but it’s still top of my list of bouldering regrets. 

[SA Chris]

Wisecrack Direct at Slipstones. Cool looking, 3*, holds like razors, I have shed blood numerous times on this, ending a session once when I have removed almost all skin from knuckles. I still have the scars.

[BrutusTheBear]

Literally everything on SW moorland granite that is considered classic. Pulling on the rock is invariably grim, even when the features and moves are great. Especially true if you're 80kg+. I think I pulled onto the Wave about three times before going through. It's not so much that I think these things are categorically shit, but instead that they can never be truly classic (in the national sense) if you place any value in the ergonomics and aesthetics of holds. Which I very much do.

So much for southern softies eh?!  I'm a fan of the granite down here (needs must!).  Like any rock type the holds and the quality varies hugely.  The 'monkey paw' on the Wave is infamously sharp.  I would nominate Devon Sent though, a stunning line on an impressive boulder but my god, for Dartmoor granite, the holds are viciously sharp right from the start.  If you can dispatch technical 7c+ in 2 goes then maybe it is a classic, for everyone else it's a horror show that'll see to your tips in quick time.

AWOL Apprentice at Tintagel.

Oh no! This is on my list for the spring/summer if/when we're finally allowed to travel properly again.

Fear not Cofe, a well placed bit of taping on your right index finger, it becomes a comfortable pocket and an absolute classic again.

[Fiend]

Sulky Little Boys.

It didn't get the name for nothing. And I though you were tall tomtom. You should have no excuses. 

TBF if you're tall it's only V5, but it's going to be a pretty tough and frustrating V5 (unless you're really flexible in the hips I guess). If you actually have to do the hard bit it's better balanced overall.


NTBTA is a good one. A brilliant E2 5b/c old skool solo somewhat spoilt by a genuinely mundane foot-skidding grunt-fest starting move.

[cofe]

At least I know to tape up for AWOL!

[BrutusTheBear]

 

At least I know to tape up for AWOL!

  I was too slow off the draw!  It's a banger, keep it on your list! 
Does everyone just need to toughen up a bit??  I'm sure some crack aficionados are watching this and thinking isn't the pain part of the experience.
I quite like NTBA, the way it gradually eases with height makes it a good steady highball and what a line!