+2 on the footholds suggestion. Although you can also change it up so it's not only decreasing side / positivity of the footholds: I've got a 'good but in the wrong place / orientation' foothold option which adds some variety.
SDM: that's a lot of holds on your board - impressive! Just showed the photo to my girlfriend who thinks she'd become confused with that many options. Does that become a problem?
Will only work if you have your feet in a grid pattern (I.e. I have four rows of six footholds set in line), but forces you into different body positions, especially high steps or bunched feet which is a weakness for me, or if you restrict columns as well means you end up going really wide too. Anything to force not using the easiest option.
Quote from: reeve on January 20, 2021, 08:52:44 pmSDM: that's a lot of holds on your board - impressive! Just showed the photo to my girlfriend who thinks she'd become confused with that many options. Does that become a problem?I don't find it a problem, I like having a lot of holds. It's good for variety, makes it easy to set replicas and I never run out of problems to set. It stops me feeling the need to reset so I've built up a massive library of problems for endurance work or if I'm feeling too lazy to set new problems.
Another idea I've had recently for foothold rules is only one allowed per row and / or per column, with no swapping. Will only work if you have your feet in a grid pattern (I.e. I have four rows of six footholds set in line), but forces you into different body positions, especially high steps or bunched feet which is a weakness for me, or if you restrict columns as well means you end up going really wide too. Anything to force not using the easiest option.
More broadly, I think having some foothold rules is underrated generally. A lot of boards these days seem to have a grid of feet and if it's just 'use anything' I find I get pretty lazy with the sort of movements I end up doing. Recently I've found setting problems with specified feet has made for some much more interesting problems.
Recently I've found setting problems with specified feet has made for some much more interesting problems.
Quote from: remus on January 21, 2021, 08:21:24 amRecently I've found setting problems with specified feet has made for some much more interesting problems.Yeah 100%. I've found that rule is just a nice way of short cutting the process. Also +1 for having really high hold density. I watched a YouTube video yesterday where a couple were stripping their entire wall in order to then set specific problems, and I couldn't understand why they were bothering. Having a big set of holds means problems just develop naturally, especially if you force yourself to think about either moves outdoors, or moves on other boards, and all without the massively time consuming faff of taking all the holds off and putting them all on again. Here's the vid. Suppose whatever keeps you entertained atm but hardly good practice in my opinion.
Its also an aesthetics/taste thing... I personally don't like the splatter board approach - prefer fewer holds and more spaces...
Has anyone had experience training on a really small board? Something like this;I've got pretty limited space, but keen on the idea of some sort of training beyond just a fingerboard - just not sure how valuable this would be
Going back about 8 years.. this was the only space I had when I took my cellar board down.. pretty mixed results.. certainly got stronger fingers and fitter fingers, didn't do much for anything else... but then I had a bar for arms and lever strength. Had quite a bit of fun on it stringing together different routines. The little board at blocfit came from these videos I am pretty certain of that.
Interesting hearing everyone’s methods. I’ve had three different feet sizes and just swap them around - so in the same place but harder to push on/stay on. My board has quite a low hold density and I’ve probably only got 8-10 different problems on it (mirrored so double that). I do the same warm up and then cycle up through a series of harder problems that are all quite droppable. So if I’m climbing well I get thought most of these quite fast and then make up one or two to try. If I’m climbing shit I never make it through the older repertoire. Amazingly I’m not really bored of it yet - having had three different foot hold sets it’s climbed subtly differently (but enough) each time.