[Duma]

+1 to TT's point on screws - decent ones are def worth it!

[Nutty]

Probably worth getting C24 over C16 as it's (generally) stronger for the same dimensions. I bought cheap ply for my board and it's fine, but I'd probably spend more on the ply if building again as the surface isn't great and there's a fair amount of filler been used.

[bigironhorse]

the regular decathlon one isn’t much cop

This is a major understatement, only use if you want everything to feel 50% harder!

[Wood FT]

the regular decathlon one isn’t much cop

This is a major understatement, only use if you want everything to feel 50% harder!

+1, shit is moisturiser

[SA Chris]

shit is moisturiser

Is it? Must try some on my face.

[James Malloch]

Thanks for the responses on timber! I ordered it all today which should mean we're ready to start making it this weekend.

My first set of holds arrived and look awesome (from Taylormadeholds). Check them out on their instagram if you're interested - it's the set which have 5 campus rungs with them too. Gone for 50 holds + 10 smaller "chips" (i.e. smaller crimps) and 5 campus rungs which will hopefully go up the middle of the board. Have 30 dome foot holds too with half of them having a notch cut out to make them more positive.

Also got 16 "micro jugs" from core coming too for warming up / going around and around on.

We're going to go for 25 degrees (Sorry Will!!) but it's being made so that we could make it 30 degrees fairly easily. Should be great in the short(ish) term for some rehab and getting fitter again - we can take stock in a few months time and see if we think it needs making steeper then - though going much steeper would mean we'd be hitting the wall on the other side of the room if we came off.

My thinking is that we can use it at 25 for a while - get a set of problems / circuits made. And then wither switch to worse footholds, or just make the wall 30 degrees and do the same things. Or wear a weight vest.

Will be 2.8m length and 2.3m wide with no kicker.

Might not make us the strongest climbers ever but I've got good lank and hip flexibility to get me up things beyond my finger strength grade!

[webbo]

I think you will find it underwhelming at 25/30 degrees. I have just built mine at about 40 with no kicker. I did short session on it yesterday after fitting the holds on it. The last time I climbed was October 2nd. If you are worried about it being too hard put some jugs on with large footholds. You can always put smaller holds on later.

[moose]

I think you will find it underwhelming at 25/30 degrees. I have just built mine at about 40 with no kicker. I did short session on it yesterday after fitting the holds on it. The last time I climbed was October 2nd. If you are worried about it being too hard put some jugs on with large footholds. You can always put smaller holds on later.

+1.  Mines a 40 with no kicker too.  I was originally wary about such a steep board as I'm very weak and was mainly climbing at Malham at the time; a vertical board covered in undercuts would have been more appropriate!  But as it had to be compact (~1.5 metres wide), I chose an angle that ensured each move could pack a punch without needing to use holds like razors.  I've now got a good variety of handholds and three sets of footholds (big, small positive, domes) and can set problems at a decent variety of difficulty and get a good beasting in 1-2 hours - perfect for a long lunchtime while WFH. 

For me, while the Depot 30 is one of my favourite boards, I don't think such a shallow angled woodie would work so well in a scaled-down home format.  That angle would probably necessitate using holds that are too aggressive on the skin for frequent use, smeary footholds mean lots of unpredictable falls that would need good matting, and the extended problems possible at the Depot might be unfeasible on a small woodie.   

[Bradders]

+1 to the above. I think you'll regret having it at 25 definitely. Might get away with 30, but it'll still feel underwhelming.

[James Malloch]

Quite possible/probable that it will be underwhelming. But it will work for what we want in the next 2-3 months. I couldn’t hold a cup of tea without pain not that long back and climbing something not that steep set it off again last time I climbed.

We also couldn’t really go much steeper without impacting on other uses of the room. I’m more than happy to go round and round on it so it should work okay for now.

Problems will be contrived for sure but that’s all part of the fun!

[M1V0]

Good choice on the holds James, I have a couple of TaylorMadeHolds and they’re nicely made.

[Fultonius]

 Don't listen to them, mine is 30 and yes, I need to have bad feet to make problems hard, but not all holds need to be razors - you can also go slopey.

I can warm up without fear of rupture, and my girlfriend can join me for a session. There is no global optimum. And even what's ideal for training might not be ideal for the constraints.

[SA Chris]

Agree.  What you have seems ideal for your all round needs. Enjoy using it.

[James Malloch]

Yeah I'm happy and psyched! Will be perfect for me and my girlfriend. I've a great boredom tolerance for going around and around (though not for fingerboarding) so I'm be happy with short circuits that get repeated. My spring/summer this year consisted of a 6A traverse which once done I did there and back, then there and back and there, then there and back and there and back. Some the best fun climbing I've had given the lack of other options available 

Really looking forward to moving again!

We've got dome feet which May be a bit too positive once we're set up and back into it. So if anyone can recommend some real bad footholds I'll probably get some ordered soon 

[Duma]

James - I have these on my 30 degree board
https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/shop-by-type/footholds/geo-screw-on-feet-board_1/

the positive way up is generally too good at my angle, but upside down they make great options for harder feet. would prob be ok for you at 25 degrees?

[RobK]

I was just about to provide the same link as Duma. My local wall uses them as the 'bad' set on their circuit board which is probably at about 20-25 degrees. They're suitably rubbish

[SA Chris]

So if anyone can recommend some real bad footholds I'll probably get some ordered soon 

I may have a bag of the old Metolius ones you can have for a nominal fee, I'll have a look. they are light to post.

[tomtom]

Jenga blocks.

I got an old set for a fiver off eBay. Hardwood 15mm edges. Perfect.

Thanks to Lagerstarfish for the recommendation.

[Duma]

Id say jenga blocks would be too good for 25 degrees

[teestub]

Id say jenga blocks would be too good for 25 degrees

Bivvy ledges 😄

Would second (third) the Core ones, give a great variety of options and you could have set right way up and a set upside down for variety. I’d stay away from any polished wooden dome style feet as I can’t stand them, but some people get on well with them.

[Fultonius]

We've got dome feet which May be a bit too positive once we're set up and back into it. So if anyone can recommend some real bad footholds I'll probably get some ordered soon 

I bought some 50mm beech hardwood half balls of ebay - they are ideal bad footholds on the 30degree board. Once they get rubbered up, they get even worse.

[JJP]

Yip I have some of those core ones as well and they are good/ hard.  Have them positive side up on a 45 (feel v hard to use) and use them other way on the kicker - suspect this would give a good difficult foothold on a 25.   

[Will Hunt]

I rate the Core screw ons. They're the intermediate option on my 40 board but they are all angled positive-side up. You could certainly make good use of them by playing with the different angles on your horrible 25 degree board ( ).
If you've the cash to splash, get some of the "screw on feet micros" from the same range. I have these angled edge-side up as the hard setting. You could experiment with the slopey side but that might be too gnarly.

[tomtom]

Id say jenga blocks would be too good for 25 degrees

10mm (measured) and slick.

Get a whole packet for the price of 1.5 core screw ons!

[SA Chris]

Id say jenga blocks would be too good for 25 degrees

Agree. the ones I use are dirt by comparison. Can always take a plane to them though, or saw diagonally in half.