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Home Board Size (Read 22307 times)

Will Hunt

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#25 Re: Home Board Size
January 19, 2021, 03:50:00 pm
Do not do a 25 degree board.

Am I right in thinking that you fall into the relatively weak but relatively fit category of climber? A 25 degree circuit board isn't going to do you any favours. You'll only further advance your existing strengths and weaknesses. I would very strongly advocate a 40 degree board, even if that necessitates some fairly generous holds at first.

SA Chris

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#26 Re: Home Board Size
January 19, 2021, 03:59:59 pm
I'd strongly advocate building what you think is best for you and your other half to suit your needs, James.

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#27 Re: Home Board Size
January 19, 2021, 04:01:06 pm
Your space and available height is quite an interesting example as 2.5m is the max height you can build under permitted development for an outbuilding/garage/shed so might be relevant to a few people.

I was actually thinking about this the other day. I know this is irrelevant as you want a shallower angle board but in that space (bear in mind its been a while since I used the old sohcahtoa), with a 10cm kicker, you could get a 55 degree board, with approx. 4.2m of climbing surface which would come out 3.4m.

Or in old money, 3 & 1/2 8by4 sheets of climbing surface. Thats a mega board.

36chambers

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#28 Re: Home Board Size
January 19, 2021, 04:03:36 pm
James. Do not take the advice of a man who posts a video of himself using a heel on a board.

:D I'd noticed that too.....

Heel hooks FTW, and toe hooks around the side of the board, drop knees, knee bars, bat hangs, whatever you can think of. Way more fun, and varied, that way. This evening I'm planning on attaching some 2x4 off cuts half way up the edge of the board to use for some horizontal bicycle action. 

James Malloch

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#29 Re: Home Board Size
January 19, 2021, 04:19:12 pm
Your space and available height is quite an interesting example as 2.5m is the max height you can build under permitted development for an outbuilding/garage/shed so might be relevant to a few people.

I was actually thinking about this the other day. I know this is irrelevant as you want a shallower angle board but in that space (bear in mind its been a while since I used the old sohcahtoa), with a 10cm kicker, you could get a 55 degree board, with approx. 4.2m of climbing surface which would come out 3.4m.

Or in old money, 3 & 1/2 8by4 sheets of climbing surface. Thats a mega board.

Yeah if we used the full room we'd have an awesome one! It's quite a decent height room for one really - shame we're going to have guests and need a bed in here in the future...

tomtom

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#30 Re: Home Board Size
January 19, 2021, 04:25:46 pm
Your space and available height is quite an interesting example as 2.5m is the max height you can build under permitted development for an outbuilding/garage/shed so might be relevant to a few people.

I was actually thinking about this the other day. I know this is irrelevant as you want a shallower angle board but in that space (bear in mind its been a while since I used the old sohcahtoa), with a 10cm kicker, you could get a 55 degree board, with approx. 4.2m of climbing surface which would come out 3.4m.

Or in old money, 3 & 1/2 8by4 sheets of climbing surface. Thats a mega board.

I’d guess (from eyeballing it on pictures) that’s not far off Greg Chapmans board..

teestub

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#31 Re: Home Board Size
January 19, 2021, 05:16:39 pm
Yeah if we used the full room we'd have an awesome one! It's quite a decent height room for one really - shame we're going to have guests and need a bed in here in the future...

Original Beastmaker version


Updated more hipster version
https://www.instagram.com/p/CIOMkt8Dne1/?igshid=tdj1x6z6h9we

James Malloch

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#32 Re: Home Board Size
January 19, 2021, 05:19:37 pm
Yeah if we used the full room we'd have an awesome one! It's quite a decent height room for one really - shame we're going to have guests and need a bed in here in the future...

Original Beastmaker version


Updated more hipster version
https://www.instagram.com/p/CIOMkt8Dne1/?igshid=tdj1x6z6h9we

Been looking at those two recently - I think that they could work in our room but it would quite difficult to set up. Though it could probably be made adjustable which would be pretty cool!

Bradders

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#33 Re: Home Board Size
January 19, 2021, 05:22:04 pm
Your space and available height is quite an interesting example as 2.5m is the max height you can build under permitted development for an outbuilding/garage/shed so might be relevant to a few people.

I was actually thinking about this the other day. I know this is irrelevant as you want a shallower angle board but in that space (bear in mind its been a while since I used the old sohcahtoa), with a 10cm kicker, you could get a 55 degree board, with approx. 4.2m of climbing surface which would come out 3.4m.

Or in old money, 3 & 1/2 8by4 sheets of climbing surface. Thats a mega board.

Yeah if we used the full room we'd have an awesome one! It's quite a decent height room for one really - shame we're going to have guests and need a bed in here in the future...

As if anyone is ever going to have visitors again  :lol:

M1V0

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#34 Re: Home Board Size
January 19, 2021, 05:27:29 pm
Your space and available height is quite an interesting example as 2.5m is the max height you can build under permitted development for an outbuilding/garage/shed so might be relevant to a few people.

I was actually thinking about this the other day. I know this is irrelevant as you want a shallower angle board but in that space (bear in mind its been a while since I used the old sohcahtoa), with a 10cm kicker, you could get a 55 degree board, with approx. 4.2m of climbing surface which would come out 3.4m.

Or in old money, 3 & 1/2 8by4 sheets of climbing surface. Thats a mega board.

I’d guess (from eyeballing it on pictures) that’s not far off Greg Chapmans board..

Pretty much, although it comes out to between 45 and 50 degrees (if he's telling you 55, he's a damned liar) and maybe between 3.5 and 4 pieces of ply. kicker was closer to 30 too.

James Malloch

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#35 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 11:59:59 am
What materials would be best for a free-standing board - and what structures are recommended?

I'd guess 18mm ply, but other than that I've no idea really in terms of the surrounding support.

Also - I've seen two types of free-standing board:

1) A board kind of built in a box with vertical support at the end of the wall
2) one with diagonal supports going into the wall about 2/3 up the climbing surface.

remus

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#36 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 12:44:29 pm
18mm ply and 2x4s are your bread and butter. Lots of variations on those available, mainly around treatments (to prevent mold etc.) and quality (voids in the plywood, filler etc.)

For the supports, I think diagonals in to the wall at 2/3rds height are better as there's less to hit if you cut loose at the top of the board.

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#37 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 02:01:41 pm
What materials would be best for a free-standing board - and what structures are recommended?

I'd guess 18mm ply, but other than that I've no idea really in terms of the surrounding support.

Also - I've seen two types of free-standing board:

1) A board kind of built in a box with vertical support at the end of the wall
2) one with diagonal supports going into the wall about 2/3 up the climbing surface.

I made type 1, and I put together a PDF for a friend that had the materials invoice, "blueprints" and accompanying pictures if you're interested in having a look.

petekitso

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#38 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 06:58:46 pm
Sorry for (mild) thread hijack  and probably stupid question but . . .

Is everyone who has built a board in that style happy that two 'uprights' of 2x4 secured by 18mm carriage bolts is strong enough to support the board & punter?

sdm

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#39 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 07:13:21 pm
Also - I've seen two types of free-standing board:

1) A board kind of built in a box with vertical support at the end of the wall
2) one with diagonal supports going into the wall about 2/3 up the climbing surface.

Mine is a 45° free standing board with 3.6m climbing length and 2.4m wide. It's 18mm ply with 2"x4" timber for all supports, secured by M10 4.8 bolts (somewhat overengineered). I bought it from a retiring UKBer, their setup was symmetrical with 2 diagonals on each side, one at full height and one at 2/3 height. Imagine having the grey and red beams on both sides and no yellow beams (assuming I have successfully mastered embedding images on UKB). That layout would have compromised access in to the living room so I modified it to save space.



For my first layout, I tried the lazy option due to a lack of tools, I tried just omitting the longer diagonal so I only had the one diagonal support on the right hand side at about 2/3 height (shown in yellow). This set up had some serious flex problems with my 60kg weight. The board shook noticeably with each move and made a lot of noise if you did any dynamic moves or pinged off and it also took up more space than I wanted so I moved on to layout 2:



I moved the diagonal support to about half height and added in a vertical support as shown in green. It takes up less space than layout 1 and there's no noticeable flex now.

You could probably get away with just the diagonal support at 2/3 due to your smaller climbing surface but you might have a bit of flex.

I've never felt likely to hit the supports when falling or cutting loose. I don't have huge hold density along the edges, but I think I could go closer to the edge without it being an issue. If you set a lot of big moves to a finishing jug right in the top corner, hitting the supports might be a problem.


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#40 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 07:21:07 pm
I love the fact that your board is in the living room. Maybe I should talk to the Mrs...

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#41 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 07:25:20 pm
Fairy lights! Ace idea 👍

M1V0

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#42 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 07:37:27 pm
Sorry for (mild) thread hijack  and probably stupid question but . . .

Is everyone who has built a board in that style happy that two 'uprights' of 2x4 secured by 18mm carriage bolts is strong enough to support the board & punter?

Mine has suggested nothing to the contrary. The very top of my board actually protrudes outside the triangle supports and no amount of weight or swing I have generated has indicated any sort of wobble in the base.

James Malloch

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#43 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 07:54:44 pm
Also - I've seen two types of free-standing board:

1) A board kind of built in a box with vertical support at the end of the wall
2) one with diagonal supports going into the wall about 2/3 up the climbing surface.

Mine is a 45° free standing board with 3.6m climbing length and 2.4m wide. It's 18mm ply with 2"x4" timber for all supports, secured by M10 4.8 bolts (somewhat overengineered). I bought it from a retiring UKBer, their setup was symmetrical with 2 diagonals on each side, one at full height and one at 2/3 height. Imagine having the grey and red beams on both sides and no yellow beams (assuming I have successfully mastered embedding images on UKB). That layout would have compromised access in to the living room so I modified it to save space.



For my first layout, I tried the lazy option due to a lack of tools, I tried just omitting the longer diagonal so I only had the one diagonal support on the right hand side at about 2/3 height (shown in yellow). This set up had some serious flex problems with my 60kg weight. The board shook noticeably with each move and made a lot of noise if you did any dynamic moves or pinged off and it also took up more space than I wanted so I moved on to layout 2:



I moved the diagonal support to about half height and added in a vertical support as shown in green. It takes up less space than layout 1 and there's no noticeable flex now.

You could probably get away with just the diagonal support at 2/3 due to your smaller climbing surface but you might have a bit of flex.

I've never felt likely to hit the supports when falling or cutting loose. I don't have huge hold density along the edges, but I think I could go closer to the edge without it being an issue. If you set a lot of big moves to a finishing jug right in the top corner, hitting the supports might be a problem.



Thanks Martin, much appreciated!

Out of interest, how difficult do you think it would be to make your setup adjustable?

I assume the base of yours is on a pivot unless there’s a kick board? And The side supports are also bolted?

I wondered if you added some additional holes on the horizontals that are on the floor whether you could loosen a few and just adjust where they bolt on the horizontals?

sdm

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#44 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 08:09:10 pm
Quote
I assume the base of yours is on a pivot unless there’s a kick board? And The side supports are also bolted?

Yes, the beams on the back of the board are bolted in to the horizontal base beams and could pivot. No kickboard.

You could make mine adjustable by putting extra holes in the horizontal beams.

It would be a two person job to adjust it though and it would take some effort supporting the weight of the board while you moved the bolts so I doubt I'd want to change the angle every session.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2021, 08:24:07 pm by sdm »

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#45 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 08:27:50 pm
Aye, my woodie is of a similar design to yours but 140cm wide with vertical height of 260cm, which with it being 40deg overhanging makes the climbing surface 324cm long. 

Probes made and assembled it for me and split the top panels to make them light enough to easily lift and screw in place (he evidently had little faith in the muscle I could lend to the task!).   With holds it's much heavier and even if it had the requisite extra holes in the struts, changing the angle would be very difficult. 

Personally, I would not contemplate a board less than 30deg at that size.  The 30 deg at the Pudsey Depot works because it has terrible footholds, lots of bad handholds, and it's wide, so you can set longer problems.  With a small home board you want the potential to make the limited number of moves trickier without the holds being too repellent, and without commercial matting, I personally would not want to be continually skidding off smears. 

What I've found really helps with setting problems on a steeper board, is having more than one separate set of footholds.  My woodie has three - large, small but positive, and domes.  When I devise a problem, I initially try it on any footholds, then on only small positive footholds, and then only on domes - you get more "value" out of problems and it's a nice way of gauging progression.

mrjonathanr

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#46 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 08:29:24 pm
+1 on the foothold thing

sdm

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#47 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 08:36:23 pm
I love the fact that your board is in the living room. Maybe I should talk to the Mrs...
I had planned to put the board in the cellar but got tempted by the higher ceiling in the living room so half of the living room became the board room. There wasn't anyone sensible around to veto that decision.

Added the fairy lights, a lamp, some pictures and some houseplants around it to stop it dominating the room quite so much. I'm not sure how successful that was...

reeve

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#48 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 08:52:44 pm
+2 on the footholds suggestion. Although you can also change it up so it's not only decreasing side / positivity of the footholds: I've got a 'good but in the wrong place / orientation' foothold option which adds some variety.

SDM: that's a lot of holds on your board - impressive! Just showed the photo to my girlfriend who thinks she'd become confused with that many options. Does that become a problem?

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#49 Re: Home Board Size
January 20, 2021, 08:52:51 pm
Added the fairy lights, a lamp, some pictures and some houseplants around it to stop it dominating the room quite so much. I'm not sure how successful that was...

trying to hide a 3.6m x 2.4m board

I love this level of optimism

just brilliant  :bow:

 

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