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SW Area Zoom meeting 27 th Jan. Anstey’s issues. (Read 14664 times)

Oldmanmatt

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Mark K (area chair) has shared the mentioned meeting to the SW sports climbing partners FB page, with a link to a UKC article that is broken...

Anybody know what’s up? If it wasn’t almost dark and peeing down, I’d walk over, but...


Oldmanmatt

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Well, looks like a walk with the camera tomorrow.

Only went down there just before Xmas, so it must be recent. Or not obvious from the path down to Redgate.

Ged

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Back in September somebody terraced a path across the bottom of empire wall, as in where you walk to get to ferocity wall. Seemed odd, as it wasn't really an issue compared to other slopes that are crumbling away. Didn't seem particularly offensive though. Is it really torbay wildlife trust land?

spidermonkey09

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Some proper frothing outrage on ukc. What's the view from people who actually climb there, is it a big deal?

Wood FT

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I’ve not been in a few years :( but the bit where you belay for Uzi in my pocket was a pain in the arse and eroding badly  back then. Seems OTT to patio the floor to ferocity wall (under might and main?) unless things have radically changed in recent years.

duncan

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It could be frothing at the mouth, but it could be the kind of thing a landowner takes a dim view about. I thought the photos made the 'landscaping' look quite messy but it's hard to tell without seeing the real thing. Seems sensible to establish a BMC view quickly, especially if the landowner turns out to be unimpressed.

Ged

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Some classic UKC antics over there.

That slope was a real mess as WFT says. Haven't seen the work to be able to comment on whether it's a good solution or not. The pictures look like it's quite extensive!

Hopefully climbing at the cove will be banned forever and everyone will have to get stuck into South Devon conglomerate climbing.

Wood FT

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It could be frothing at the mouth, but it could be the kind of thing a landowner takes a dim view about. I thought the photos made the 'landscaping' look quite messy but it's hard to tell without seeing the real thing. Seems sensible to establish a BMC view quickly, especially if the landowner turns out to be unimpressed.

Where are the photos?

Ged

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There's a Flickr link on the thread somewhere.


Wood FT

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There's a Flickr link on the thread somewhere.

Whoa, bloody hell that looks like Hamburger Hill. It looks good at the base of Uzi/Heathen Man but the rest looks like the chap has had a few sugary drinks and some gabba on. Extensive. Shame the tree isn't there to soften Tom Newberry's ground sweepings falls...

Andy W

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BrutusTheBear

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Depends who you talk to but levels of outrage vary. A lone wolf, permission from land owner and consensus not sought.  Apparently there are nice flat terraces under each of the routes on Empire wall but the quality of workmanship is leading some to question whether they will stay nice and flat.  We'll see what happens after some heavy rain.
It's all going on down here......... In other news.. Someone(?) has bolted a line on the Culm at Menanchurch Point in the last week or 2 which has provoked a fierce response.
Should be an interesting meeting.  :popcorn:

Oldmanmatt

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Depends who you talk to but levels of outrage vary. A lone wolf, permission from land owner and consensus not sought.  Apparently there are nice flat terraces under each of the routes on Empire wall but the quality of workmanship is leading some to question whether they will stay nice and flat.  We'll see what happens after some heavy rain.
It's all going on down here......... In other news.. Someone(?) has bolted a line on the Culm at Menanchurch Point in the last week or 2 which has provoked a fierce response.
Should be an interesting meeting.  :popcorn:

Given the rain, right now, I wonder...

I will go for a look tomorrow.

Edit.

Just checked forecast. Rain and gales until late Wed.


Ged

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Bloody heck. Extensive.

kingholmesy

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There is the obvious point that this has been done without any consultation with the land owner, or other climbers (apart from apparently canvassing opinions at the crag - certainly nothing raised via the BMC).

Leaving that aside, the next issue is the quality and extent of the work that has been undertaken.  Obviously it's difficult to say definitively without visiting in person (and in any event I'm not a land management expert), but from the video it looks like a real mess to me.

Admittedly erosion was an issue underneath the Empire wall.  However, I question the durability of the terraces of earth and stones that have been erected - and if nothing else it looks a complete eyesore.

I question the wisdom of the way this has been undertaken, but am sure it was done with good intentions - clearly a lot effort has been expended.  I hope that the debate can focus on the issues, rather than personal criticism - otherwise it only serves to discourage people from consulting properly in the future.

remus

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...and if nothing else it looks a complete eyesore.

I agree with what you're saying, but on this point: this kinda thing always looks shit just after it's been done. Given a year or two Im sure it'll look a lot better.

kingholmesy

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In other news.. Someone(?) has bolted a line on the Culm at Menanchurch Point in the last week or 2 which has provoked a fierce response.
Should be an interesting meeting.  :popcorn:

That FB thread about the Culm bolts was carnage!  I only read half of it before needing to get on with some work, and can't find it now.  Has Stu deleted it?

kingholmesy

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this kinda thing always looks shit just after it's been done. Given a year or two Im sure it'll look a lot better.

Yeah maybe, I guess we'll see.  Possibly still an issue if the landowner (Torbay Council?) gets wind and sees what look like a mess caused by climbers in the meantime.

macca7

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Re the culm bolts.
Stu has removed the post at ut all ended up being a bit playground and getting no where. I have some pics of the nice shiny bolts having gone down for a quick go on Friday only to find the first three drill holes bolt less! Lovely looking peice of wall now desecrated by four shiny bolts and 3 drill holes or ready to go depending on your point of view?

With regards to Ansteys I've not been but have seen all the pics and videos and it does look a bit over the top. Some of the steps off the end of those terraces look rather large. Its more difficult to tell it being winter as well but those images sure make it look like a bit of a bomb has gone off! I'm not expert but I'm worried about the longevity of some of those terraces. Clearly the big issue however is permission and land ownership its in an area of SSSI I think which may cause a few issues. Perhaps a softly softly do a little see how it goes approach would have been better?
At least this weather will give his workmanship a good testing!

tomtom

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...and if nothing else it looks a complete eyesore.

I agree with what you're saying, but on this point: this kinda thing always looks shit just after it's been done. Given a year or two Im sure it'll look a lot better.

Even by May it may look alright. Weird to do that much in one go if there’s no permission. If it were me (and I’m not a rabid patio builder) I’d have done it little bit by little bit... and maybe not in a Sssi!!

It’s a big job though! A couple or more people working for more than a couple of days at it...

macca7

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According to the ukc thread all the work was done by one guy.

Although he didn't cut any trees down his none climbing assistant did that and only with a hand saw!

Looks like a fair few trees have been felled!

kingholmesy

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Re the culm bolts.
Stu has removed the post at ut all ended up being a bit playground and getting no where. I have some pics of the nice shiny bolts having gone down for a quick go on Friday only to find the first three drill holes bolt less! Lovely looking peice of wall now desecrated by four shiny bolts and 3 drill holes or ready to go depending on your point of view?

From the posts I read there was a lot of people getting unnecessarily personal rather than focusing on issues - which as intimated above is counter-productive.

I would be interested to see the pictures Macca if you are happy to PM them to me?  I promise not to use them to reignite the argument!  BTW - what sports grade did the line go at?

Cheers, Luke.

macca7

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Hi Luke

Yes it all seemed to get a bit petty and old vs young etc etc

More than happy to send over the pics they aren't great as to see the boolts you have to get pretty close and then you don't really get a feel for where they are on the wall but more than willing to share.

Didn't get on the route as i said the first three bolts were missing with just the holes there! Also thought I might get lynched!

Cheers macca

 

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