[DAVETHOMAS90]

Remus, I've just watched the fantastic video of Ryan on Sleepy Hollow - media linked to your thread.

I think that depth of information is really valuable. Could it be that your list becomes a go to place for media, as well as records of significant trad ascents?

For James Pearson, I think it would be better to include his other ascents too. Eg: Is Not Always Pasqua, The Groove, as well as The Walk of Life. And Harder Faster - especially as some of these are first ascents.

PS. agree with your comments about not wanting to be the judge of what constitutes a "valid ascent" etc. Also, in the context of your comments, I understand the grade split too.

[T_B]

It would be really great if someone from Gen Z had a go at Dr Doolittle. Or maybe it needs an old skool crimper to come out of retirement? I mean it’s hiding in plain sight is it not? I’ve never heard of anyone trying it. The story of John Arran putting cut up credit cards into his shoes to make them stiffer makes you wonder whether it might be easier in shoes other than Boreals.

[remus]

Remus, I've just watched the fantastic video of Ryan on Sleepy Hollow - media linked to your thread.

I think that depth of information is really valuable. Could it be that your list becomes a go to place for media, as well as records of significant trad ascents?

Glad you enjoyed the vid Dave. Longer term Id definitely like to start filling it out with more content like that, and maybe even little essays about significant climbers/climbs/ascents. Think something like peak rock but more of an ongoing project than a one off.

Just need to find some more anoraks who are keen to get involved!

If I ever get round to it I was thinking it might be fun to put together some longer form pieces (long blog post style) based on some of the lists.

There's also the functionality to do a project like Ed G-S put together earlier this year (where you can search for problems and get beat vids), but it doesn't really fit under the 'climbing history' banner.

For James Pearson, I think it would be better to include his other ascents too. Eg: Is Not Always Pasqua, The Groove, as well as The Walk of Life. And Harder Faster - especially as some of these are first ascents.

Agreed, would be keen to add in some more of Jame's routes and problems as he's done a lot around the UK (pembroke onsights etc.)

[SA Chris]

Didn't reliose there were vids attached. there goes a couple of hours. Wonder if you would be allowed to link to Reel Rock etc?

[remus]

Didn't reliose there were vids attached. there goes a couple of hours. Wonder if you would be allowed to link to Reel Rock etc?

If it's a public vid I can link in to a specific timestamp but if it's a payed vid it wont work (other than just taking you to somewhere you could pay for the full thing). If someone was feeling super keen they could go through and add all the stuff in stone love, committed etc.

[SA Chris]

True enough, probably more effort than worth. Either way, a fantastic effort getting what you have together.

[remus]

Ed Booth got in touch on fb to help with the addition of a few ascents of Rare Lichen and Gribin Wall Climb

Men https://climbing-history.org/list/6
Women https://climbing-history.org/list/7

[Alex-the-Alex]

Cool list. Niall McNair did the Dark Side a few years ago as a highball. Is that being discounted?

[remus]

I'm staying away from stuff done in a highball style for the moment. No doubt there's stuff done with pads that more than warrants a trad grade, but it's so hard to draw a sensible line somewhere about what's worth a trad grade and what's worth a bouldering grade.

[remus]

Anyone able to id the climber in this clip of Knockin on Heavens Door from consumed?

[Doylo]

Dan Honeyman with me the very scared belayer.

[remus]

Dan Honeyman with me the very scared belayer.

Good knowledge, thanks! Not surprised you were scared, Knockin' is pretty close to the bottom of my 'routes Id want to belay someone on' list.

[Doylo]

And Dan near the bottom of ‘persons I’d want to belay ‘ list. Well back then anyway. He gave me an elbow to the temple falling off Unfamiliar and I could only eat soup for a week.

[nik at work]

 

Belaying Dan stories are amazing.

First time I met Dan was bouldering at the Foundry. The next day he suggested we go climbing outside (I was a very green, led a couple is VS’s, climber). He had me belay him on Kaluza Klein...
“If I fall off just jump off this ledge”

Errrr ok....

He then proceeded to fall of the top, repeatedly...

[Johnny Brown]

Can see why he and Tom hit it off! Sketch-fest!

[Tony]

IIRC Sean gave it straight 8a and got sufficient stick that he wrote an article to explain his reasoning. Basically, he said it's a redpoint.

The CC have done it with their Pembroke guide, giving all routes of E56 and above an accompanying sport grade in their select guide only for only those route where it is known ... The CC Pembroke guidebook authors (Emma and Paul) have a huge advantage in worked really hard doing it for Pembroke by speaking with lots of locals and visitors alike and making a real effort ... Some of the popular hard routes [in Pembroke] get almost as much more traffic than anywhere else as the populous climbing areas of the Peak and Yorkshire. Bar a few notable exceptions, most routes in Yorkshire of, say, E5 and above see only a few disparate repeats. I imagine many are unrepeated. The popular hard routes in Peak/Yorkshire have loads of ascents much like the popular routes in Pembroke. There are unpopular routes in all areas...

Fixed some of your whinging for you Will

[Doylo]

His upper body was quite stacked so the elbow really had some force behind it. Seem to remember belaying him lobbing off some E6 at Stanage too with me belaying but can’t remember the route.

[SA Chris]

Another blow to the head, or old age?

[Fiend]

Can't find it on his channel, but Irish Si's commentary after Dan sketches up Kaluza Klein (possibly with Nik belaying) is great....

"It's.....it's fucking raining...."

"You're a fucking tool."

"I'm not climbing with you again!"

[nik at work]

That was probably a couple of years later so not me belay h, but agree that the commentary is brilliant 

[Doylo]

The drives to the crag were even more necky...

[petejh]

IIRC Sean gave it straight 8a and got sufficient stick that he wrote an article to explain his reasoning. Basically, he said it's a redpoint.

The CC have done it with their Pembroke guide, giving all routes of E56 and above an accompanying sport grade in their select guide only for only those route where it is known ... The CC Pembroke guidebook authors (Emma and Paul) have a huge advantage in worked really hard doing it for Pembroke by speaking with lots of locals and visitors alike and making a real effort ... Some of the popular hard routes [in Pembroke] get almost as much more traffic than anywhere else as the populous climbing areas of the Peak and Yorkshire. Bar a few notable exceptions, most routes in Yorkshire of, say, E5 and above see only a few disparate repeats. I imagine many are unrepeated. The popular hard routes in Peak/Yorkshire have loads of ascents much like the popular routes in Pembroke. There are unpopular routes in all areas...

Fixed some of your whinging for you Will

 

Will downgrading Pembroke now.

[remus]

IIRC Sean gave it straight 8a and got sufficient stick that he wrote an article to explain his reasoning. Basically, he said it's a redpoint.

The CC have done it with their Pembroke guide, giving all routes of E56 and above an accompanying sport grade in their select guide only for only those route where it is known ... The CC Pembroke guidebook authors (Emma and Paul) have a huge advantage in worked really hard doing it for Pembroke by speaking with lots of locals and visitors alike and making a real effort ... Some of the popular hard routes [in Pembroke] get almost as much more traffic than anywhere else as the populous climbing areas of the Peak and Yorkshire. Bar a few notable exceptions, most routes in Yorkshire of, say, E5 and above see only a few disparate repeats. I imagine many are unrepeated. The popular hard routes in Peak/Yorkshire have loads of ascents much like the popular routes in Pembroke. There are unpopular routes in all areas...

Fixed some of your whinging for you Will

 

Will downgrading Pembroke now.

New years resolution 2022: downgrade France.

[andy moles]

Bit sad putting forward my girlfriend (again), but Ferdia has climbed E7s: Skye Wall, Free Stonehenge (with gear in), Power of the Darkside (as a highball), an 8+ in Sweden which I guess would be E7, maybe others.

Michelle McLoughlin does the FA of an E7 in that Owey film [edit - it's called Temple of Boom], and I think she's done others - Thing in the Forest maybe?

[Alex-the-Alex]

Sad because you are a supportive bf? Or sad because she's a dark horse operator under the radarand hasn't been mentioned? Because both of those are pretty cool nowadays. You may need to recalibrate your coolometer Andy Moles.