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British men who have climbed >= E9 and british women who have climbed >= E7 (Read 36952 times)

Stabbsy

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Didn’t Birkett repeat To Hell and Back on Hells Lum (E10)? Got a feeling he was a bit dismissive of the grade though.
Here you go - confirmation from UKC.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_birkett_the_weekend_warrior-8532

Also, didn’t Bransby repeat Baron Greenback at Wimberry? And some others for Jordan - Widdop Wall, French Duke at Earl, maybe some more? You could also add Widdop Wall for John Dunne. And Dynamics of Change for Nige. And Adrian Berry repeated Big Issue I think.

Stabbsy

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NaoB

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Thanks for all the suggestions for the women, I've added them all in (other than Naomi B, anyone got anything specific?)

Three in a week for Naomi a few years back
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/05/three_e7s_in_a_week_for_naomi_buys-68911

I have done a fair few E7's over the years, including Birdsong, Gathering Sun, Snap Decision and Deathwatch, also a first ascent (Overlooked at Newchurch). Can't remember what else off the top of my head! Also done My Piano, which is hovering somewhere between E7/8 these days I think, depending on the current state of the pegs. While we're at it, you never put me on the 7C list either....

Will Hunt

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Neil Furniss did Meshuga, assuming you keeping it in (in Cheque's film).

Added him. I was only joking about the Meshuga downgrade (silly in joke about keen roof being popular, and therefore due a downgrade). I don't have an opinion on how hard Meshuga is.

Just in case you're being serious, Keen Roof isn't a candidate for a downgrade because lots of people have done it, it's because a very significant number of the people who have done it say it should be downgraded. I think the beta has changed from when it was first done?

Teappleby

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Good lists Remus, couple I can think of off the top of my head:

Jacob Cook did first ascent of The Lizard King at Ilkley a while back, and Michaela Tracey has done Point Blank.

DAVETHOMAS90

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Open to suggestions on what to do with highballs. Andy Earl is one who springs to mind here, stuff like The Prow and The Dark Side seems pretty full value without pads, but then these are typically done with pads nowadays.
:worms: :worms: :worms: we're gonna need a bigger can! Pad protection is universal but the vast majority of relevant E9s were either done before them or graded without them (there's photos of a few pads in shot for The Dark Side), so good luck sorting all that out.

True, but pads vary a lot in how much difference they make to a route. They might bring an E9 down to E8. Some routes they turn into boulder problems - so it's case by case really.

Andy, yes. Case by case basis.
In reality, this is the case for the other debate re knee pads. This time the other unpopular question re bouldering pads.

The grade really does need to reflect the precise details of how a route has been climbed.

This needs to include all sorts of pre-ascent preparation.

It's so much harder to "go for it" when you know there are no "shit out" options. I think this is important regarding pads. People commonly try to argue that "it's still scary.." etc etc, but having them there - and sometimes in huge stacks - makes the important distinction between whether the decision to "go for it" is made or not. For me, something like Ulysses at Stanage is the obvious example.

Glenda Huxter - The Bells The Bells

Didn't Nick Bullock mention this in a Jam Crack? Am I right in thinking Glenda onsighted it?!

The only photos I've seen of Glenda on The Bells, she's had the high wires in The Cad clipped.

I had a brief look at The Bells, and put some poor tapes on spikes at roughly the same level that you make the traverse out right. I asked Andy Pollitt about this, and he said he'd found some small wires at the end of the traverse. I hadn't seen anything there when I got there, which meant the climbing to the peg would have been unprotected. I've heard of other people putting gear in the Cad, higher than the point where you leave it. Makes a massive difference.

The question of prior knowledge is also interesting. Grimer's comments in Hard Grit, about Seb taking the fall on Parthian, come to mind. I think it's a good case to make about the fall, to say "Maybe that's the E9..". The inference being, that on subsequent ascents, people can benefit a great deal from the experience of other climbers, who've maybe tested the "survivability" of a route.

submaximal gains

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Found by googling 'female' 'E7' site:www.ukclimbing.com and  'female' 'E8' site:www.ukclimbing.com

Lucy Creamer did Slab and Crack at Curbar in 2007
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/uk_trad_2007-797

Katherine Schirrmacher headpointed Balance it is at Burbage South in 2007
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/04/balance_it_is_for_schirrmacher-36038

Katy Whittaker has done Masters Edge and Kaluza Klein in 2008
+ Braille Trail in 2009 + Knockin' on Heaven's door in 2013
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/katy_whittaker_-_braille_trail_-_e7_6c-45873

Subsequent searching revealed Airlie Anderson did the first female ascent of Master’s Edge, making use of a mattress to pad the start for which she received some criticism.

Lucinda Whittaker (nea Hughes) did end of the affair in 2010.
Interview here https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/11/lucinda_whittaker_-_gritstone_e8-58675

Natalie Berry did  Dalriada on  The Cobbler (E7 or E8?) around 2015
She also was David McLeod's partner for the fisrt ascent of 'Old Boy Racer'  E8 5b, 7a, 6b on Ruabhal, St Kilda; It doesn't appear that she led the crux pitch.

Emma Twyford has headpointed Rare Lychen in 2013, Impact day in 2015, then  'Do you know where your children are' and Chupacabrae in 2020
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/09/chupacabra_e89_6c_by_emma_twyford-72478
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/08/do_you_know_where_your_children_are_e8_6c_by_emma_twyford-72437
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/10/emma_twyford_climbs_e9-68419

Karin Magog climbed Bleed in Hell in 2010
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/04/e8_for_karin_magog-53060

Mary Jenner also climbed bleed in hell in 2010
She has also climbed in Inferno E7, in 2006, alos at Bowderstone crag
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/04/e8_for_mary_jenner_-_bleed_in_hell-52774

Anna Taylor has climbed "My Halo (E7 6b) in the Llanberis slate quarries, without the mid-height bolt; Obsession Fatale (E8 6b) at the Roaches; Disorderly Conduct (E8 6c) at Reecastle Crag; and the first ascent of Priceless (E7 6b) at Thrang Cragshttps://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/05/good_day_at_nesscliffe_for_pearson_-_e8_e8_e9-67151 in Langdal"
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/press/berghaus_aims_high_as_trad_climber_anna_taylor_joins_the_team-12242

Is Caroline Ciavalini included? she's elgible for a UK passport if she wants one.
She did Requiem at Dumbarton in 2014, and the Quarryman in 2018
She onsighted Hindenburg E7 in 2012, and redpointed my piano and the jackals (e8) on the same trip.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/05/good_day_at_nesscliffe_for_pearson_-_e8_e8_e9-67151

remus

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Didn’t Birkett repeat To Hell and Back on Hells Lum (E10)? Got a feeling he was a bit dismissive of the grade though.
Here you go - confirmation from UKC.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_birkett_the_weekend_warrior-8532

Thanks for the link :) Added Dave B's ascent to the list.

Quote
Also, didn’t Bransby repeat Baron Greenback at Wimberry? And some others for Jordan - Widdop Wall, French Duke at Earl, maybe some more? You could also add Widdop Wall for John Dunne. And Dynamics of Change for Nige. And Adrian Berry repeated Big Issue I think.

I've added a few of those in, but generally Im not going to bother adding lots of stuff where people have multiples at a grade. The list is much easier to maintain if it's just 'how hard has this person climbed' rather than a complete list of all E9s or harder.

I have done a fair few E7's over the years, including Birdsong, Gathering Sun, Snap Decision and Deathwatch, also a first ascent (Overlooked at Newchurch). Can't remember what else off the top of my head! Also done My Piano, which is hovering somewhere between E7/8 these days I think, depending on the current state of the pegs. While we're at it, you never put me on the 7C list either....

Thanks for the detail, really appreciate it! Interesting you mention My Piano, I think this is a tricky one as from my understanding the gear has changed quite a bit over time (pegs as you mentioned, pretty sure the big cam is a lot better than it used to be, and a friend of mine found a hand placed beak that makes the start a lot safer).

Sorry about missing you off the 7C list, my bad! Would you mind listing a few things out? Had a quick look through the thread and could only find a vague mention about tourniquet?

Jacob Cook did first ascent of The Lizard King at Ilkley a while back, and Michaela Tracey has done Point Blank.

Good knowledge. Anyone remember a date for when Michaela did point blank? The usual UKC news reports are failing to turn up any clues.


ali k

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And Adrian Berry repeated Big Issue I think.

This and Gaz Parry’s (and Steve Mac’s) ascents were with preplaced gear. Doesn’t affect Steve going on the list though.

Off topic maybe but John Dunne’s ascent comes with a question mark if you believe the locals who were there on the day  :worms:

Probes

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Neil Carson & others Mission Impossible

shark

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Monkey boy uncharacteristically did Meshuga.

Tom Briggs did Partheon.

Nike Air

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These mentions make good reference for future dates, why not make use of all these in the actual list and have it up to date and informative?


It also gave me a chance to remember what I'd actually done..

Widdop Wall, felt E10 in comparison to to the other things I did and played on at the time and most likely is.
French duke.
Loaded in the guide as e8 but  Probably a safe E9 but really hard climbing.
Muy caliante.
Talbot horizons.
Hasty Sin Oot Ert Hoonds? 
Final round.



colin8ll

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Jules Lines has done E10: hold fast, hold true.

E9 for Robbie Phillips with Achemine.

NaoB

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Didn’t Birkett repeat To Hell and Back on Hells Lum (E10)? Got a feeling he was a bit dismissive of the grade though.
Here you go - confirmation from UKC.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_birkett_the_weekend_warrior-8532

Thanks for the link :) Added Dave B's ascent to the list.

Quote
Also, didn’t Bransby repeat Baron Greenback at Wimberry? And some others for Jordan - Widdop Wall, French Duke at Earl, maybe some more? You could also add Widdop Wall for John Dunne. And Dynamics of Change for Nige. And Adrian Berry repeated Big Issue I think.

I've added a few of those in, but generally Im not going to bother adding lots of stuff where people have multiples at a grade. The list is much easier to maintain if it's just 'how hard has this person climbed' rather than a complete list of all E9s or harder.

I have done a fair few E7's over the years, including Birdsong, Gathering Sun, Snap Decision and Deathwatch, also a first ascent (Overlooked at Newchurch). Can't remember what else off the top of my head! Also done My Piano, which is hovering somewhere between E7/8 these days I think, depending on the current state of the pegs. While we're at it, you never put me on the 7C list either....

Thanks for the detail, really appreciate it! Interesting you mention My Piano, I think this is a tricky one as from my understanding the gear has changed quite a bit over time (pegs as you mentioned, pretty sure the big cam is a lot better than it used to be, and a friend of mine found a hand placed beak that makes the start a lot safer).

Sorry about missing you off the 7C list, my bad! Would you mind listing a few things out? Had a quick look through the thread and could only find a vague mention about tourniquet?

Jacob Cook did first ascent of The Lizard King at Ilkley a while back, and Michaela Tracey has done Point Blank.

Good knowledge. Anyone remember a date for when Michaela did point blank? The usual UKC news reports are failing to turn up any clues.
I've not done Tourniquet (it is on my wishlist!) but climbed multiple 7C's. Not Bad Dave the only one this year, did a few last year including Ben's Roof (with kneebars). Need to pull my finger out and get on something harder this year.

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Katy Forrester also did Dawes Rides A Shovelhead as the first female ascent and it apparently got downgraded to E7 straight after...

mrjonathanr

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And Adrian Berry repeated Big Issue I think.

This and Gaz Parry’s (and Steve Mac’s) ascents were with preplaced gear. Doesn’t affect Steve going on the list though.

Off topic maybe but John Dunne’s ascent comes with a question mark if you believe the locals who were there on the day  :worms:

Emma Twyford did this August 2018 too
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/08/the_big_issue_e9_6c_by_emma_twyford-71689

ali k

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submaximal gains

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I thought Stevie Haston had done E9 at some point, but on rereading it seems his E9s are now thought to be E8.

Stevie Haston did the first ascent of Melody at Craig Dorys which he gave E9 to in 2005. In 2011 it was repeated by Nic Bullock and may be better described with the HXS grade, the UKC report mentions that Nic placed additional pegs, but removed them before the ascent  :worms:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/09/nick_bullock_-_2nd_ascent_of_hxse9_on_craig_dorys-63923

https://dmmclimbing.com/Journal/September-2011/Dorys-E9-tour-de-force-repeated

Also at Craig Dorys, Stevie did the FA of Nightstalker in 2009 which was reported as E9; the route was repeated in 2014 by Oli Grounsel and Benno Wagner who thought it was E8

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/night_stalker_hxse8_gets_2nd+3rd_ascents-68819

Mick Lovatt repeated Melody in 2019, and Nightstalker around the same time as well - the article containing an interview with him gives both E8 https://www.climber.co.uk/news/news/lovatt-safe-as-milk-at-craig-doris/

Stevie also flashed green spit, 8b crack ?E8

remus

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And Adrian Berry repeated Big Issue I think.

This and Gaz Parry’s (and Steve Mac’s) ascents were with preplaced gear. Doesn’t affect Steve going on the list though.

Good knowledge, I've added a note to the relevant ascents.

Quote
Off topic maybe but John Dunne’s ascent comes with a question mark if you believe the locals who were there on the day  :worms:

Sounds like some beans to spill, any more details?

Neil Carson & others Mission Impossible

Good shout, added them in.

Monkey boy uncharacteristically did Meshuga.

Tom Briggs did Partheon.

Excellent knowledge shark, thanks.

These mentions make good reference for future dates, why not make use of all these in the actual list and have it up to date and informative?

I do try and record quite a few ascents but it makes keeping the list up to date quite tricky. Generally I'm aiming to record stuff that's historically interesting, so an early E9 repeat is much more likely to get on there than Caff (i.e. prolific trad wad) doing Meshuga.

Quote
It also gave me a chance to remember what I'd actually done..

Widdop Wall, felt E10 in comparison to to the other things I did and played on at the time and most likely is.
French duke.
Loaded in the guide as e8 but  Probably a safe E9 but really hard climbing.
Muy caliante.
Talbot horizons.
Hasty Sin Oot Ert Hoonds?
Final round.

Interesting on WIddop Wall, I've upgraded it based on your thoughts. Also added in a few more of the E9s.

I've not done Tourniquet (it is on my wishlist!) but climbed multiple 7C's. Not Bad Dave the only one this year, did a few last year including Ben's Roof (with kneebars). Need to pull my finger out and get on something harder this year.

Nice, good effort! I've added in Ben's Roof so you're on the list.

remus

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Thanks for the searching submax, I've added in relevant stuff for people but haven't included everything (i.e. multiples at the same grade for people).

T_B

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Andy Pollitt - Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door
Ben Tetler - as above, solo
Mia Stacey - Janus, Pacific Ocean Wall Direct (both E7)

Nic Sellers is spelt Sellers, not Sellars.

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kingholmesy

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Wojciech Szymanowicz for Rewind?

Mark Edwards gave it E10 but his grading is questionable.

Woj declined to comment on the trad grade but thought it around 8a/+ with a bold start (albeit a safe-ish crux).  I know he has flashed or done other E8s very quickly, whereas Rewind took him a lot of work.  Based on this, I would guess from the comfort of my armchair that Rewind is likely to be E9.

Woj is Polish but has been resident here well over a decade - I think long-term UK residents were included on the other lists?

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I think Ken Palmer should go on for repeating Question Mark - although did he suggest it might only be E8? Don’t know if he’s done others?

If Ken goes on the list for Question Mark, then Mark Edwards should go on too as the first ascentionist.

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Anyone remember a date for when Michaela did point blank? The usual UKC news reports are failing to turn up any clues.

On or about 05/08/2018, accurate to ± 2 days.

 

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