UKBouldering.com

British men who have climbed >= E9 and british women who have climbed >= E7 (Read 36943 times)

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
One confirmed E9 doesn't confirm an E11
I know of at least 2 routes which have been downgraded by people who actually bothered to climb on other rock types and routes.

I've never really understood your beef with him. People get FA grades wrong all the time. Even if Nothing Lasts isn't E11, it's probably still E10. And even if it isn't, confirmed E9 does get you onto Remus' list, which is the only thing that matters in this context.

I'm not out to be a cheerleader for Franco. He's made some hefty mistakes along the way (I don't consider getting an FA one grade out to be a hefty mistake), but he's also been instrumental in developing and pushing standards in a significant UK climbing area, including doing the documentation. That deserves a lot of credit.

It might bother you that he's different and hasn't followed the approved path through climbing, but that doesn't mean that his FA's are all piss.

Steve Crowe

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 198
  • Karma: +17/-1
  • Using knees since 1974
    • www.climbonline.co.uk
Karin has onsighted loads of E6's and some E7's. She was never that keen for serious head pointing but did do some. She wrote a short summery last year for someone and expanded it a little more for my website.

https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/02/climbing-is-my-passion-by-karin-magog/

Steve Crowe

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 198
  • Karma: +17/-1
  • Using knees since 1974
    • www.climbonline.co.uk

Andy F

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1985
  • Karma: +129/-13
  • Ex-ex-climber
One confirmed E9 doesn't confirm an E11
I know of at least 2 routes which have been downgraded by people who actually bothered to climb on other rock types and routes.
In the context of this list, being E9 and confirmed repeat, Cookson should be in.

JJP

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 117
  • Karma: +2/-0

Andy F

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1985
  • Karma: +129/-13
  • Ex-ex-climber
One confirmed E9 doesn't confirm an E11
I know of at least 2 routes which have been downgraded by people who actually bothered to climb on other rock types and routes.

I've never really understood your beef with him. People get FA grades wrong all the time. Even if Nothing Lasts isn't E11, it's probably still E10. And even if it isn't, confirmed E9 does get you onto Remus' list, which is the only thing that matters in this context.

I'm not out to be a cheerleader for Franco. He's made some hefty mistakes along the way (I don't consider getting an FA one grade out to be a hefty mistake), but he's also been instrumental in developing and pushing standards in a significant UK climbing area, including doing the documentation. That deserves a lot of credit.

It might bother you that he's different and hasn't followed the approved path through climbing, but that doesn't mean that his FA's are all piss.

He did make big grade mistakes and you do come across as his cheerleader Will (sorry, but it's true)

I'm not knocking his development of a previous backwater, I've always questioned his yardstick. Think Edwards, O'Connor and further away Fred Rouhling.

But this takes away from an otherwise excellent thread.


remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
Just to clarify, I'm trying to keep the list focused on people who have done E9/E7 or harder, not listing out every single ascent. A couple of ascents per person is enough for my liking (preferably on stuff that's established at the grade).

Fair enough, but Nick Dixon deserves more than one route next to his name.

Agreed, Nick's a total legend! Added his FAs of thousand setting suns and gribin wall climb.

Thanks for all the suggestions for the women, I've added them all in (other than Naomi B, anyone got anything specific?)

reeve

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 435
  • Karma: +81/-1

Possibly unpopular opinion; is Unfamiliar E7 with pads?

Having tried it (but not done it!) I think this is better classified as a highball with some gear for the top, assuming you use pads.

Another one for debate: Robin Barker and Sean Myles for Captain Invincable at Burbage South. I know it was originally E8 but given the lack of repeats, TRandall thought it was E9 (I belayed him and he was huffing and puffing), and it's another one I haven't done but have tried (on TR, couldn't do some of the moves after s couple of visits), I think F8b was bandied about, surely it's E9?

reeve

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 435
  • Karma: +81/-1
Thanks for all the suggestions for the women, I've added them all in (other than Naomi B, anyone got anything specific?)

Three in a week for Naomi a few years back
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/05/three_e7s_in_a_week_for_naomi_buys-68911

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1

Possibly unpopular opinion; is Unfamiliar E7 with pads?

Having tried it (but not done it!) I think this is better classified as a highball with some gear for the top, assuming you use pads.

Another one for debate: Robin Barker and Sean Myles for Captain Invincable at Burbage South. I know it was originally E8 but given the lack of repeats, TRandall thought it was E9 (I belayed him and he was huffing and puffing), and it's another one I haven't done but have tried (on TR, couldn't do some of the moves after s couple of visits), I think F8b was bandied about, surely it's E9?

On a similar theme I wonder whether Marbellous at Stanage is due a bump to E9? I guess Bransby must have put a bit of time in (on the quest to tick stanage) and he's no punter.

Andy F

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1985
  • Karma: +129/-13
  • Ex-ex-climber
Is Heartbeat City at Rylstone still thought to be E8? It'd be nice if Dave Pegg made the list.

reeve

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 435
  • Karma: +81/-1
On a similar theme I wonder whether Marbellous at Stanage is due a bump to E9? I guess Bransby must have put a bit of time in (on the quest to tick stanage) and he's no punter.

Ah, you've reminded me of John Welford doing Mother of Pearl; if we're considering Marbellous for E9, the MoP must be

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
Is Heartbeat City at Rylstone still thought to be E8? It'd be nice if Dave Pegg made the list.

Still E8. Never heard any differing opinion aside from the obvious that it's a complete horrorshow.

turnipturned

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 715
  • Karma: +107/-1
Is Heartbeat City at Rylstone still thought to be E8? It'd be nice if Dave Pegg made the list.

Still E8. Never heard any differing opinion aside from the obvious that it's a complete horrorshow.

I heard a pebble snapped or something! Which does add to the terror!

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
It'd be nice if Dave Pegg made the list.

MaDMAn is any case an utter nightmare and well worth E8.

Springchicken

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 5
  • Karma: +2/-0
Mary Jenner has also done Bleed in Hell.

Lucy Mitchell - Divided Years

Lucinda Whittaker - End of the Affair

Anna Taylor - numerous E7’s


Sidehaas

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 295
  • Karma: +12/-0
Neil Furniss did Meshuga, assuming you keeping it in (in Cheque's film).

Springchicken

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 5
  • Karma: +2/-0
Glenda Huxter - The Bells The Bells

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
Open to suggestions on what to do with highballs. Andy Earl is one who springs to mind here, stuff like The Prow and The Dark Side seems pretty full value without pads, but then these are typically done with pads nowadays.
:worms: :worms: :worms: we're gonna need a bigger can! Pad protection is universal but the vast majority of relevant E9s were either done before them or graded without them (there's photos of a few pads in shot for The Dark Side), so good luck sorting all that out.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
Andy, to clarify the cutoff for men is E9 so Dave Pegg isn't currently on the list (despite having some wild lines to his name).

Another one for debate: Robin Barker and Sean Myles for Captain Invincable at Burbage South. I know it was originally E8 but given the lack of repeats, TRandall thought it was E9 (I belayed him and he was huffing and puffing), and it's another one I haven't done but have tried (on TR, couldn't do some of the moves after s couple of visits), I think F8b was bandied about, surely it's E9?

I wonder whether the grade of this has been affected by the state of the pegs? I chatted to Tom about it a while ago and got the impression the pegs weren't up to much, but maybe they were in a better state for the FA? Even then 8b seems pretty chunky for E8.

Thanks for the link to Naomi B's E7 spate, added those in.

Mary Jenner has also done Bleed in Hell.

Lucy Mitchell - Divided Years

Lucinda Whittaker - End of the Affair

Anna Taylor - numerous E7’s

Good shout springchicken, added them in. Women's list is starting to look a bit healthier now.

Neil Furniss did Meshuga, assuming you keeping it in (in Cheque's film).

Added him. I was only joking about the Meshuga downgrade (silly in joke about keen roof being popular, and therefore due a downgrade). I don't have an opinion on how hard Meshuga is.

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
Open to suggestions on what to do with highballs. Andy Earl is one who springs to mind here, stuff like The Prow and The Dark Side seems pretty full value without pads, but then these are typically done with pads nowadays.
:worms: :worms: :worms: we're gonna need a bigger can! Pad protection is universal but the vast majority of relevant E9s were either done before them or graded without them (there's photos of a few pads in shot for The Dark Side), so good luck sorting all that out.

True, but pads vary a lot in how much difference they make to a route. They might bring an E9 down to E8. Some routes they turn into boulder problems - so it's case by case really.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
Glenda Huxter - The Bells The Bells

Didn't Nick Bullock mention this in a Jam Crack? Am I right in thinking Glenda onsighted it?!

Springchicken

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 5
  • Karma: +2/-0
Yes Glenda on-sighted The Bells The Bells - awesome effort.

Other women who’ve O/S E7 include:-

Lucy Creamer
Hazel
Emma
Karin
Maddie?

Ged

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 922
  • Karma: +40/-1
Tim emmet, muy caliente (and possibly more in n Wales)

reeve

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 435
  • Karma: +81/-1
Been Heason - muy caliente and Oz Bound

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal