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Aims for 2021 (Read 33897 times)

Bradders

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Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 12:53:15 pm
I know it's not exactly easy to set goals at the moment, with everything still so uncertain. BUT....there is light at the end of the tunnel! So, time to get thinking.

Previous years for reference:
Aims for 2008
Aims for 2009
Aims for 2010
Aims for 2011
Aims for 2012
Aims for 2013
Aims for 2014
Aims for 2015
Aims for 2016
Aims for 2017
Aims for 2018
Aims for 2019
Aims for 2020

Andy F

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#1 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 03:29:42 pm
Given my targets for last year were low and achievable I'm going the same this year. Ambitious and unachievable is so 2010's.

Bouldering: 7A
Sport: 7b+

At least I'll have to try at these grades.

abarro81

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#2 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 04:07:22 pm
Kind of hard to make aims due to injury, the fact that my UK goals are all on the wettest bit of the relevant crags, and Brexit/COVID uncertainty around ability to travel, but here goes, in chronological order:

1) All I want for ChristmasQ1 2021 and early Q2 2021 is to fix my god damn PIP joint. Or at least to improve it. With this in mind, the whole of Jan will be spent only fingerboarding to coax it back to tolerating higher loads. No endurance work either, since it doesn't like volume. Obviously the rest of the year is somewhat dependent on achieving this. Hopefully can be back climbing more by March/April - making progress with this thing is like turning a supertanker around.

2) Be sensible enough to abandon all goals apart from Kilnsey proj 1 (which is finger friendly) in favour of rest/rehab any time this rears its ugly head again.

3) Spring/Summer: do some fun, preferably hard, preferably new, UK sport routes
- Kilnsey proj 1 (working title "Preposterous Tales")
- Kilnsey proj 2 (I really hope this climbs how I think it might)
- Cornice proj (not bolted)
- Something at Malham (Something for nothing, Sabotage, Fixation)

4) Do fun foreign climbing in autumn. Some hard onsights would be nice.

AMorris

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#3 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 04:12:01 pm
I am going ambitious but achievable this time.

Bouldering:
1) Another 8th grader would be nice.
2) 10 boulders of 7C and up.
3) One of: the Lotus, Barrel Trav, Clarity at Goitre Coed, the Joker
4) Identify an 8B that I can obsessively train for, and that is feasible for me in the next few years.
5) Explore what south wales bouldering has to offer.

Training:
6) Now that for the first time in my life I can train on a steep board, do it more (once I am recovered).
7) Improve at body strength oriented climbing (squeezing through my lower body etc), rather than relying on finger strength and just pulling on things.
8 ) Consistent 5s on the Hinkley edge.
9) Recover, come back stronger, and do not get injured...

Other:
10) lose 3kg.
11) Rather uncomfortable one this, but limit drinking to weekends. I suspect this will resolve number 10 too. Even writing this makes my skin crawl a little bit, but I want to be reminded of it at the end of the year so...
12) Take a holiday, 5 years is probably too long a gap between them.
13) See friends more. This has been a tough year for that, and it has made me reflect on how much I appreciate them.

Anyway, enough of that rubbish. I would be happy with a handful of those!

If anyone can suggest some nice boulders/areas in the South Wales area, I would be very appreciative!

Fiend

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#4 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 04:25:55 pm
1. Not "Stay At Home".

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#5 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 05:08:57 pm
I mainly want to enjoy myself being myself out in the Welsh wilds this year. However, I'd be keen to break the habit of being out on my lonesome. I love lone exploring, but it can restrict you too, and I could certainly do with some social grounding.

That's all a bit airy fairy, there are some concrete goals too.

1. Climb the Tosheroon project. Going to get scientific and take a stepladder. Ideally I need a spotter for this one, so need a fellow covid free enthusiast. One for the warmer months anyway.

2. Tick the major jamming boulders of North Wales. 4 mountain and 3 coastal to go.

3. Climb the project I bust my ankle on. Need many pads and spotters this time. Another requirement for covid to sort it's act out.

4. Develop a new area I've found with company. A theme is growing here.

5. Climb 10 three star boulders I haven't climbed before (that one's for Panton) just to see what the fuss is about.

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#6 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 05:22:07 pm
Climb & skate with daughter;
Don't let work add to stress;
Jason's roof at crookrise;
Kilter board 7C at shallow, medium and steep angles;
Get side splits;
Flip the step up at revolution bike park;
Freestanding handstand press up;

Wood FT

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#7 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 05:24:38 pm
Climbing:
6 x 7B, 4 x 7B+ and 2 x 7C.
Climb 8a+ (any from the list: K3, GBH, Chimes, Nemesis, Agent Provateur, Pat Pence)
Get on something Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free.
Go climbing with Dan.

Training:
7 seconds 20mm @ 36kg
1-arm 20mm @ -5kg
Campus 1-4-7

Other:
Organise an after school club when such things are allowed, Rugby or photography.
Get everything ready for a big project.
Save up for an electric car.


RobK

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#8 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 06:06:51 pm
1) An LPT 8a - maybe Statement but we'll see what catches my eye.
2) A Malham/Kilnsey 8a - recommendations welcome.
3) First 7C - essentially, finish off Rock Atrocity which I got to the last move of just before the most recent Welsh lockdown.
4) Climb in Europe - if I don't achieve this, something has gone horribly wrong with 2021.

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#9 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 06:11:32 pm
Climbing:
Get back to around previous best (before very long finger injury): 7C / 8a.
Do some good harder multipitch routes.
Develop some decent crags.
Work on guidebook idea.
Don't get badly injured.
Sucessfully organise climbing meet.
Go deep water soloing.

Other:
Move to the countryside.
Decide whether I really want a career in science/academia. If not, quit job and find something different.

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#10 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 06:12:12 pm
Bouldering
- Soft on the G - Gardoms
- Bottom half of Project
- 1x 7a at the School
- 3x 6c/6c+ at the School/Moonboard
- 1x 7a on the Moonboard

Campus board
- 1-4-6 (L&R) (23mm rung)
- 5 reps of 2on:3off Feet on Campusing

Climbing
- Onsight 6c
- 2x 7a in a day
5x Redpoints 6c to 7a+
- Coot Reboot 6c Rubicon
- Superleggers 6c Hidden Quarry
- A Little Bit Extra 7a+ Raven Tor
- ?
- ?

Finger Strength
- 20kg 20mm edge 7secs.

I only managed 26 days outside in 2020 so hopefully I get more this year.

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#11 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 06:16:33 pm

1) All I want for ChristmasQ1 2021 and early Q2 2021 is to fix my god damn PIP joint. Or at least to improve it. With this in mind, the whole of Jan will be spent only fingerboarding to coax it back to tolerating higher loads. No endurance work either, since it doesn't like volume. Obviously the rest of the year is somewhat dependent on achieving this. Hopefully can be back climbing more by March/April - making progress with this thing is like turning a supertanker around.

Hey Barros, I'm sure you will have considered/tried this but I felt that shockwave gave me pretty quick improvements when I had a DIP ulnar collateral ligament avulsion. Might be worth a try.

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#12 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 06:23:17 pm
I've got the bug again and I intend to get back to previous strength and hopefully surpass it. It's been a good few months since the finger surgery and my hand feels good to start trying hard.

Grit goals
Reclimb:
Brad pit, Mossatrocity, Terrace.

Find a 7C+ project.
Try it a lot.

Climb 7C on something other than grit, including boards.

I'd like to hit +50kg on fingerboard
I'd like to be able to do a one arm pull up.
I'd like to do 7B in the moonboard please.

On top of that I'd like to get out climbing more than the 3 times I managed last year.

At a massive stretch I'd really like to be less anti social and get a climbing partner for some sport climbing.

That's all. 

Aussiegav

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#13 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 06:45:49 pm
At a massive stretch I'd really like to be less anti social and get a climbing partner for some sport climbing.

That's all.

I’m in Sheffield, have the same social goals, if you’re interested, get in touch.

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#14 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 07:05:02 pm
Perfect! Thanks for reaching out.

PM me.

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#15 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 07:10:09 pm
No doubt Covid and weather will make a fool of me, but for what it's worth:

Routes
(1) Actually get back into routes (this will require a diminution in Covid for me to feel happy hooking-up with randoms from the Yorkshire Lime facebook page).
(2) Finish off Main Overhang (Malham) and if it goes, find another Malham project.
(3) Identify and work a Kilnsey project (i.e. a >=8a+ that I haven't already done).
(4) Visit non-Kilnsey / Malham crags more - Yew Cogur, Giggleswick, Gordale,  Victoria's Cave, anything in the Peak.

Bouldering
(1) Chance trips outdoors more - resist the easy option of another Depot session when the forecast is dubious, and go to more non-roadside crags.
(2) Try harder, and manage at leat one perennial on my wishlist i.e. do at least one quality 7b+/7c.
(3) Covid allowing, spend a week in the Lakes visiting crags that are out of day-trip range (Coniston, Sampsom Stones etc), or have a week in North Wales.

Training
(1) Keep up current regimen of doing something four out of five weekdays (currently I'm selecting from a menu of weighted pull-ups, TRX, ab-roller, fingerboarding, woodie).

Life
(1) Drink less (as always... ).
(2) Keep cooking and making an effort to try new recipes.
(3) Visit / phone my parents more (Covid has made me realise how much I've taken them for granted).

cheque

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#16 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 07:22:30 pm
Didn’t tick any goals last year so I’ve plenty to roll forward... not setting any specific enough to involve travel.

Two training ones, straight rollovers:

Fingerboarding consistently Going to define this this time- twice a week Jan/Feb/Nov/Dec & once a week for the rest of the year.

Equal or better all my pre-injury strength PBs I’ll be disappointed if I don’t tick this given how much I closed in on it already.

For the climbing goals I’ve used a two-part format to balance the ideal with the pragmatic:

At least 10, ideally 20 routes off my *** Sub-extreme Peak Trad list

At least 1, ideally 5, E1s

Try (as in try ground-up- I’ve no plans to start headpointing) some E2s or even E3s

No sport in there as I have no psyche for it currently. We’ll see whether I can relate to that in a years time.

Good luck everyone and best wishes for a good year!  :2thumbsup:
« Last Edit: January 01, 2021, 07:45:25 pm by cheque »

danm

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#17 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 07:35:59 pm
Climbing:
Go climbing with Dan.


I'm touched mate!

I'd like to tickle the dizzy heights of Font 7a again, even if it's only once, and be steady away on the trad again. Being able to travel and go to Font again will be out of my control but hopefully possible this year. Got a few long routes in Scotland I'd like to do.

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#18 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 07:39:33 pm
Posting on two channels means twice as much peer pressure to hold me to account, right?

2020 was always going to have been a bit difficult to prioritise climbing in - my second child was born at the end of 2019 - but having trained moderately rigourously over lockdown I had a decent second half of the year bouldering that I want to continue into 2021, and having not really focused on harder sport for a few years (2020 as above, and in 2019 my main focus was trad so when I sport climbed it was onsights at 7a-b rather than redpointing anything) I'd like to push back to the upper end of the 7s again. Lockdown #3 obviously complicates things but you gotta dream, right?

Arbitrary training goals:

- 1.5-x-5 solidly on the campus board, then 1-x-5

- L sit to Tuck Planche on the paralettes as a marker point for having worked on a weakness

- pull-ups 5x5 @95kg, and actually do some stuff on offsets

- some progress on a front lever

Climbing goals:

- make use of continued working from home and hopefully greater tolerance of more remote working in future to do some longer hybrid climb/work trips (not ridiculously long, but extending beyond the usual 2 week mark)

- make the June-June 12 months my best period of bouldering yet

- climb route 7c/+ again

- work on my “why haven’t I already” and “harder local things to try” ticklists

- nail at least one of my Portland dws projects, try mark of the beast, and do some more stuff at Swanage and in south Devon.

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#19 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 08:10:02 pm
Goals 2021

How do you plan in such an unpredictable world, but here goes, although broadly speaking the goals are similar to last year’s.

I’m carrying over the goal of climbing 7C again over from last year as by the end of the year I was at least heading in the right direction.

Still aim to get a bit leaner and around 65k still seems about what I should aim for.

Aiming to get outside for at least 50 days next year of good quality pulling.

Train fingers at least twice a week and be diligent about it, even if I’m on a trip of any sort, where portable boards will get used.

Continue with both the abs training and the yoga.

When we are locked down, keep bloody training and don’t wallow.

Stay dry for January.

Aim to get solid at 1-4-7 on both arms again.

At least two trips abroad, if travel is ever allowed again, Scotland and Wales could count if restrictions remain but slacken a bit.

Try to get injured less.

Again the most important goal is to enjoy life, spend plenty of time with Mrs B and keep the demons at bay.

mark s

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#20 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 08:25:05 pm
National acrobat at ramshaw
Ray's roof - newstones

Also plenty of days out climbing the classics
Get to some new venues
Would like to get overseas for a climb

csl

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#21 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 08:32:32 pm
Didn't have any goals for 2020 for some reason, psyche must have been low this time last year.

Main goal is to climb 3 routes or boulders from my lifetime list.
Would be great to do any of the below, I expect which of them will be very Covid dependent.
- Have a good go at onsighting Paradise Lost in one big pitch, anyone keen?
- Flash Empire of the Sun at Anstey's
- Do Jerry's Roof and Paul o Grady SDS, perhaps have a recce on Will on the Mallory Boulder.
- RP Illusions
- RP New Dawn or Dominatrix, haven't climbed at Malham or Kilnsey since 2012.

Number chasing
- 7c sport in a session
- 7B boulder in a session
- 7C boulder

Training
- Get my groin 40cm off the floor in box splits, currently 60cm
- 5 seconds 1 arm hang half crimped @ 75kg, currently ~71kg for 5 seconds

General
- Climb at 5 new crags
- Climb outside with >= 2 new people

Wil

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#22 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 09:00:05 pm
I've never really managed to stay focussed on any goals I've set in the past. I think the few that I was focussed on I ended up with unrelated injuries which prevented success. Anyway. Having moved up to Edinburgh, and now likely to be in Scotland until at least Sept 2022 I should be thinking about adventures up here, which is great as I've hardly scratched the surface.

Climb some winter classics.
I'm not that bothered by the grades, I'd just like to have some great days in the mountains. Doing something on Creag Meaghaidh, Lochnagar or Etchachan would be amazing. It might be touch and go this winter depending on restrictions.

Mountain Rock
So many big routes to do up here. Having been to Lewis this year I'd like to return because we never did the Prozac Link - it was too wet for the mountains on our trip, but adding that to The Big Lick and Stone would be an awesome trip and I have a partner who would be keen and is moving north in a couple of months.
I'd like to get some routes in on the Ben and Shelterstone too.

Other Trad
Chemin de Fer at Dumbarton is a must I think. I'd also like to have a look at Wild Country and Dalriada on the Cobbler as well as some fo the trad at Dunkeld.

Sport
Marlene at Dunkeld. Had a look this autumn, did the moves but I had no fitness, a good spring goal I think. It would be great to do a few of the routes on this face, it's a lovely bit of rock.

Other outdoor
We'd love to do another sea kayak trip, probably around Skye this time. I'd also like to take SO for a few overnight walks in the hills.

Life
I've got really lazy this autumn. I've lost a lot of motivation for exercise and have drunk too much (more like too regularly) for most of the year. I'd like to get back into good habits with this, running and fingerboarding regularly as well as doing some more yoga - I had a new user deal at a place last year and after a month I was getting the hang of it and seeing some gains. Sharkathon is my starting point.
Get my book to the point where I can pitch it to agents with some hope of success.
Get funding for an overly ambitious new climbing podcast/book project I've been working on.

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#23 Re: Aims for 2021
January 01, 2021, 09:56:23 pm
Decided to finally stop lurking and put some goals up. Mostly just rehashes of last year's goals as trad and sport didn't really happen.

Boulder pyramid
10x 7B; 5x 7B+; 2x 7C
Plus attempt something harder. Just a continuation from last year, hopefully I make it to the top of the pyramid this year!

Climb some >= 7B boulders that aren't on grit.
Limestone or whatever! Basically stop only climbing on grit.

Actually do some sport climbing and try and figure out my level on Peak lime.
Try for something around F7b+/c? Anything is fine as long as it takes several sessions. Need to find a partner!

Attempt every problem set at the Works.
Have a good few goes and not just ignore something because it's steep and might be too hard.

Try hard on some harder trad
Get on some E4s/E5s that are reasonably safe. And try some lime trad too!

Make more of an effort to climb with new people.
Past year hasn't been great for meeting new people and still know far too few people in Sheffield. Make more of an effort. If anyone here is looking for a partner for anything get in touch!

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#24 Re: Aims for 2021
January 02, 2021, 12:52:20 am
Finally feel like I'm rounding a corner of back-to-back injuries and (relatively) good news from the knee surgeon so optimistic for 2021!

Climbing

- Heal current injuries and remain uninjured for the year
 - 5 V9s
 - V10
 - Boulder in at least three new areas in the US
 - Crush with the lads in RMNP


Training

- Get down to 10% BW assistance hangs on one-arm BM2k slot
 - Be able to consistently do one-armers again
 - Front lever
 - Reach novice lifting benchmarks (1.5 BW Squat, 2 BW Deadlift - already have bench)
 - Get weight down below 82kg and keep it there, 80 would be even better
 - Start campusing again (so therefore back to 1-4-7 solid)


Life

- Get married (requires inter-continental travel to be back on the table)

 

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