[tomtom]

- Mothership reconnection, thorn crag. Just before March lockdown. End of the day. Worked it out move by move. Took absolutely EVERYTHING I had to get up it. ALLEZ. Not the best problem i've done, but I really do like trying HARD.

It is a superb problem! I too had a real fight to get through the top when I got it! Overlooked problem - but one of the best in its grade that I've done.

[dunnyg]

Maybe I am underselling mothership.

I fell off the top the go before I got it. I was broken. At least it was downhill on the way back! I love figuring out a problem bit by bit, its very satisfying. I thought it was better than 'and for my next trick', which seems more popular. Elemental was a proper 'have to climb it' line too.

[tomtom]

I fell off the top the go before I got it. I was broken. At least it was downhill on the way back! I love figuring out a problem bit by bit, its very satisfying. I thought it was better than 'and for my next trick', which seems more popular. Elemental was a proper 'have to climb it' line too.

FMNT is very different problem. MR is a right old grit wrestle!

[Johnny Brown]

Post-March just getting out seemed like a win. Some memorable lockdown escape moments:

Solo trainer sessions on Brown's wall during initial panic, hiding every time walkers went past.

Walked out to the Head stone via Bell Hagg and Reddicar Clough, back via Redmires conduit on a beautiful spring afternoon.

Redmires was fine to drive to well before the Peak, nice walking out to Stanage and some big horizons.

First day we were allowed back in the Peak, full Plantation circuit with El Mocho, great nick and really quiet. Freedom!

Trad:

Gimmer in June - never made it up there before and just great to be on a big crag in the mountains. Surprisingly exposed. After a couple of warm-ups Jase ended up aid/resting his way up Eastern Hammer. Seconded clean by the skin of my teeth. Welsh E5?

Pembroke in late Sept - a dogs-with-two-dicks weekend rushing about. Firecracker was a bit of perfect rock, Wavelength a big line and a lengthy war of attrition against gopping morning rock.

Wilt, Ravensdale - seconding with only one rest felt like a win. Less said about Curbar the better, but was a worrying window into a crapper future.

Boulders

Some brilliant fun days out exploring BJ's new stuff at Wharncliffe, Bradley and Gardoms. New crag ticks/ Dad's days out at Crafnant and Goldsborough. On-sighting Back Street Abortionist a year ago today was about the best tick on-paper.

Retro-ticks

Did Chip Shop Brawl a bunch of times in the early noughties but an increasingly distant memory. Felt like a big tick in October. Burly, high, brilliant.

Fielder's wall, Baldstones. I forget whether I've previously done this since the big pebble broke, but either way it's over ten years ago and doesn't look like anyone else has managed it in the meantime. Hilarious filthy topout scenes.

I've done Shirley's many times, even once in trainers, but after some embarrassingly bad form over the summer this autumn's ascent was one of the most satisfying since the first time: first go, via the harder and more committing 'proper' finish, all while feeling fairly comfortable. An enduring test of skill.

Spankings

Greatly enjoyed cheerleading Cofe up his lifetime zenith Thick End of the Wedge. Didn't enjoy not doing it the session after, or the one after that. I don't remember spending 4+ sessions on anything ever other than my Careless ground-up (18+ years and ongoing, at least in my head). A month on I'm telling myself conditions were sub-optimal and I now have a local proj for lockdown 2...

Previous years' whinges put into context by this year and feel lucky to have weathered the Covid storm fairly well. Less work = better mental health perhaps not a surprise but definitely an opportunity to re-assess.

[ali k]

Ali K didn't post his best of 2019 until May!

Writing this up in May last year was a bit lax! I did even less climbing in 2020 so it wasn't a lengthy task this time. The fire has definitely been burning less and less brightly the last few years. I haven't really trained properly since before my Oz trip in Spring 2019 and I can't really blame that on covid - think I just have to accept I'm going through one of my occasional periods where I'd just rather be doing anything other than climbing at the moment! Anyway...

Top 3 boulder problems / highballs
Little Red Riding Hood & A Company of Bad Wolves, Great Wolfrey - Felt like an absolute mission carrying pads all the way in not knowing how good the crag really was but totally worth it.
Malc's Arete, Torridon - As good as it looks. Thanks to whoever lugged a pallet underneath it.
Stu's Roof, Almscliff - Tried this on and off when I was bouldering a lot in Yorkshire around 15 years ago so it was nice to feel like I'd got better at climbing despite doing hardly any bouldering in between.

Top 5 sport routes
Love Sculpture, Yew Cogar - Had some great days down here while I was attempting to avoid the crowds at Kilnsey(!) and this was the best route I did. Such a beautiful setting for a crag.
Victorious, Victoria Cave, Attermire - Another peaceful crag in a lovely setting and a route that feels pretty unique. Thanks to Eddy for cleaning it up.
Predator, Malham - First Yorkshire 8b and the best route I've done at Malham. Thanks to Jim for preventing me doing an Ondra/Maskell on it.
Fated Path, Tunnel Wall, Glen Coe - Had a week up in Scotland in September with pretty perfect weather. Only had a few climbing days and this was the best of the lot. 40m of great sport climbing on something other than limestone. And no midges appeared!
Defcon 3, Gordale - Loved the variety on this. Had an early morning quick hit with the crag pretty much to ourselves and then I spent the afternoon belaying in the sun up at Stoney Bank.

Top 3 non-climbing stuff
- A few memorable long days out on the bike during the never-ending sunshine of lockdown. Most enjoyable was about 55miles past Fewston Reservoir and then over the tracks on top of Denton Moor and down and back up Ilkley Moor and then back past the Chevin.
- Finally committed to buying a house. Not a done deal but it's a very short simple chain so hopefully it'll go through ok. Actually enjoyed the process of it all so far and I'm very psyched to do a bit of work on it. Interested to see whether that enthusiasm survives first contact with reality. Paid £20k too much for it though, purely thanks to this forum! 
- Bivied in the most amazing spot on top of Bla Bheinn to watch the sunset and sunrise over the Cuillins. Think this was my favourite 24hr period in the whole of 2020.

[highrepute]

Highly recommend clicking through for the clip with the sound up.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDZ1jO7Dp4WCqgYdTfgh574-OrbkRxSWY2wIiU0/

Fuck me! Glad you got off lightly.

Nice pictures too, thanks for sharing.

[JohnM]

Not a bad year in the end and I didn't pick up any really debilitating injuries for most of the year which was good. I think I made some strength gains for the first time in years after coming out of the first lockdown but never really got super fit stamina-wise this year. Disappointing not to do any big limestone walls in the Alps (I am jealous of your list jwi!) but did some nice single pitch stuff.

Top boulders

Did a bit of bouldering up to 7B+ but nothing really memorable. The best was probably Happy Place (7A) at Zillagrund Wald in Zillertal.

Top 3 sport routes       

Hoanata Galtling (8b/+) Schleierwasserfall - A crimpy lower wall with a cool sequence using a heel and undercuts leads to a big move and then 7c climbing with big moves/jumps between huecos in perfect grey limestone. Clipping the second draw mid-crux makes it a lot harder so in the end I opted to pre-clip which probably makes it 8b.

Crux sequence



Grand Salamandro (8a+) Candalla Bassa, Tuscany. Nice climbing culminating in a wild compression sequence at the top. Took me longer than expected (partly due to being ill) but I was happy to finish it by the skin of my teeth last try of the trip. This made it more memorable and the fact it was situated in a beautiful narrow valley with numerous small waterfalls.



Ten' culo (8a) Val Lomasone (Arco). Really beautiful crag outside Arco. This had a techy and crimpy lower wall which I like but then an awesome headwall on small tufas. Really cool.

Top spanking 

Hyperfreiflug (8a+) Martinswand. I have tried this route over 3 winters now and it has become my nemesis route! Previously I could have said that I only had the odd half hearted go on it or that the conditions were bad but this November I really put a concerted effort into finishing it off and still came away empty handed. It is a crimpy slightly overhanging wall climbing so I feel like it should suit me but somehow I just can't get up it!

Crux sequence


                                                                                               
                       
                                                                         

[Dolly]

I've got no idea why the font size was so small when I first tried to post or why [size] is before every line but I cant be arsed to type it out again so...[/size][/size]
[/size]
[/size]Some great reads on here
[/size]I has 5 months off with tennis elbow between mid March and mid August where I couldn't climb, lift weights or even ride a bike for more than 30 minutes so something of a shorter year to chose from
[/size]I didn't do any routes or go abroad but I did go to Woodhouse Scar once
[/size]Top 3 problems
[/size]The Rib  Burbage South. It must have been at least 15 or 16 years ago that I first tried it - possibly longer. I don't remember being that excited on topping out a problem. I was just like a little kid.
[/size]Kidnestone Gardoms. I spent far too many sessions on this, but it did feel great when I did it.
[/size]Faith LH Roche Abbey. I put this in but it could have been lots of the problems on the brilliant rock there. The rock is so good on the top bit though like Nai said. I only came here for the first time in November and even when its been wet or even raining the rock has always felt dry and grippy over the last few weeks. It is strange though when a convoy of 4x4s turn up then a few minutes later you hear the echoing of gunshot as men with short hair and green jackets shoot things "for fun". Its also strange when a teenage lad and 2 other people who turned out to be his keyworkers turn up , walk up to beef buttress and spend an hour digging up the earth with sticks a few yards away. They were all very friendly though, asking me about climbing and I think all 4 of us had a good hour together. Its also strange when you're about to pull on only to hear someone who has no idea that you're there shout "fuckin ell I nearly fuckin pissed misen" followed by the sound of a small stream 30 yards away. I like Roche Abbey.
[/size]Top spanking. Gullivers travels at Church crag. I must have hit that hold at least 25 times, probably more. I just couldnt bloody do it, failing by increasingly small margins. I've got a video on my phone of me hitting and latching the hold, someone shouting "yes" only for me to yet again snatch defeat from the jaws of victory. This year though I might definintely do it.

[Plattsy]

I've got no idea why the font size was so small when I first tried to post or why [size] is before every line but I cant be arsed to type it out again so...[/size][/size]
[/size]
[/size]Some great reads on here
[/size]I has 5 months off with tennis elbow between mid March and mid August where I couldn't climb, lift weights or even ride a bike for more than 30 minutes so something of a shorter year to chose from
[/size]I didn't do any routes or go abroad but I did go to Woodhouse Scar once
[/size]Top 3 problems
[/size]The Rib  Burbage South. It must have been at least 15 or 16 years ago that I first tried it - possibly longer. I don't remember being that excited on topping out a problem. I was just like a little kid.
[/size]Kidnestone Gardoms. I spent far too many sessions on this, but it did feel great when I did it.
[/size]Faith LH Roche Abbey. I put this in but it could have been lots of the problems on the brilliant rock there. The rock is so good on the top bit though like Nai said. I only came here for the first time in November and even when its been wet or even raining the rock has always felt dry and grippy over the last few weeks. It is strange though when a convoy of 4x4s turn up then a few minutes later you hear the echoing of gunshot as men with short hair and green jackets shoot things "for fun". Its also strange when a teenage lad and 2 other people who turned out to be his keyworkers turn up , walk up to beef buttress and spend an hour digging up the earth with sticks a few yards away. They were all very friendly though, asking me about climbing and I think all 4 of us had a good hour together. Its also strange when you're about to pull on only to hear someone who has no idea that you're there shout "fuckin ell I nearly fuckin pissed misen" followed by the sound of a small stream 30 yards away. I like Roche Abbey.
[/size]Top spanking. Gullivers travels at Church crag. I must have hit that hold at least 25 times, probably more. I just couldnt bloody do it, failing by increasingly small margins. I've got a video on my phone of me hitting and latching the hold, someone shouting "yes" only for me to yet again snatch defeat from the jaws of victory. This year though I might definintely do it.

Brilliant! 

[T_B]

Obviously 2020 was a very difficult year for many people. I appreciate that I am very fortunate and in a way reviewing the climbing year feels very frivolous and self-indulgent. But here we go! The silver lining for me was having the time to get back into trad after a 10-year hiatus.

Top three Peak limestone trad:

Eye of the Tiger, Dovedale
The Golden Mile, Chee Tor
Castellan, High Tor

These were the top Peak limestone trad routes that I’d not tried back in the day. Safe to say I fell off all three! Getting on Golden Mile as my 5th trad lead of the year felt like pushing it, but I did it with one fall and was up and running. Castellan was as tough as expected and EOTT was unexpected as I was tired and fell very high on my first (headpoint) attempt.

Top three Peak gritstone trad:

Tin Drum, Curbar
The Crypt Trip, Stanage
White Water, Curbar

I tried Tin Drum GU years ago with a big team and took some exciting falls onto lots of pads. In May I got on a rope, cleaned the ferns out of it, then soloed it above two pads, sans spotters. It’s a 3-star micro route that sees little attention, partly because of the ferns and maybe because it’s a bit of a sandbag. In the autumn I had loads of time but things didn’t always come together, as I tried quite a few harder things on a rope and logistics were tricky (cycling out to the Peak is perhaps not the best preparation for leading E7s). Both Dave Mus and I headpointed Crypt Trip in a session in September (I’d tried it GU years ago). White Water terrified me when I first tried it, then I started thinking about it, went back and worked out a more secure sequence. The stars aligned and with extra pads appearing it was despatched highball-style on a cold November afternoon.

Top three trad abroad (Wales):

Jub Jub Bird, Rhoscolyn
Warpath, Rhoscolyn
Quickstep, Forwyn

I reconnected this summer with a climbing partner whom I did some of my best climbing with nearly 20 years ago. We had a brilliant weekend in Wales. Jub Jub Bird was the best of these three and my best lead of the year - totally pumped, 100% concentration, overbite clamped in place. Just as powerful as the climbing was the experience of climbing above the sea. I’d forgotten that feeling (watching Cheque’s wonderful film ‘The Seaside’ is as close as you can get to it without actually doing it).

Top three Peak boulder problems:

Under the Greenwood Tree, Lees
Batman, Crag X
Isla Grace, Froggatt

Nice to put to bed UTGT which I’d been close to last year. Batman was the only thing I got up at Crag X, though I did stick the first move of Hulk for the first time. Isla Grace at Froggatt is a highball which I climbed on my first post-Lockdown session. I was desperate for a bit of ‘risk’ I think. I didn’t do much Peak bouldering that resulted in success.

Top three boulder problems abroad (outside of the Peak):

Enchantress, Forest Rock
Four winds wall/J Mascis, Gouther
Timmy Tip Toes, Shaftoe

Forest Rock is unique. I did Enchantress at the start of January and really wanted to go back to try Heathen Chemistry again. Family trips to Shaftoe and the Lakes for the other ones. Really struggled with bouldering from the middle of the year onwards.

Top three Peak sport climbs:

Call of Nature, Raven Tor
The Squealer, Lorry Park Quarry
Garderobe, WCJ

Climbing 8a again was on my Aims 2020 list. I did Call of Nature in July and had a great evening visiting Lorry Park for the first time, managing to on-sight the Squealer. Garderobe was probably a better on sight, as the top was soaking wet.

Top spankings:

Lou Ferrino
Beau Geste

I hate to think how many sessions I’ve had on Lou Ferrino over the years and it’s a regular feature in my top spankings. I’d actually sacked it off and not tried it for a few years. Off the back of Lees sessions I felt stronger on burly compression moves and thought I’d have another look on a family holiday. 1st session I re-sorted the moves. 2nd session I got to the finishing hold/slot with my right, came up with my left to match and hold in control, then my left heel popped. So I did it, but didn’t. Gutted.

Beau Geste is not really a spanking, but I fell/jumped off after the crux as I was pumped/lost focus/scared. It was great to belay Dave Mus as he’d really wanted to do it for a long time and totally cruised it.

Top 3 races

Only did the Trigger (Marsden to Edale) in January, pretty much matching my time from 2019 (though worse conditions). This year, despite the experience from the previous race, I didn’t wear enough and couldn’t feel my hands for 3 hours. Luckily my laces didn’t come undone! I did a virtual half mara on a hilly course mid-Lockdown and got a PB.

[HarryBD]

Trad
Heart of Darkness/New Morning - Mowingword. Fucking awesome, first trip to sea cliffs and loved it. Hard to pick a route from the trip as I basically thought every route I did was brilliant...
Great Western - Almscliff. Had spent a lot of days late spring/early summer going out to Almscliff and really didn't want to get on this and mess it up. Got told it was my lead with the sun setting and found myself underneath this. I think I barely stopped until I got into the niche giddy as owt. Romping up the 5 star finish and belaying looking out across Wharfedale was pretty special.
Comet Wall - Guisecliff. On one of the hottest days of the year. New crag to me although have MTB'd and done orienteering in Nidderdale since I was a kid and had been around here lots! Amazing position and the route wasn't even green.
Want to add a 4th of Scar at Baildon Bank. Tried this quite a few times last year and one of the only routes I've felt confident trying real hard without thinking about falling off. Eventually climbed it doing everything wrong, slapping to the wrong slot.

Bouldering
Manson's Wall - Shipley Glen. Spent a lot of evenings lamping here over winter and had tried this quite a lot, always with the crimps feeling slightly too small and slippy. Turned up on a crisp morning and did it first go without feeling like I'd even tried.
Gladiator - Rowantree Tor. Really enjoyed this day and this problem up a gritstone mushroom was the highlight.
Leftism - Ilkley High Crag. Great sequence and location.

Life
Buying our first home - daunted by how big a job it is to turn it into what we want but really excited too. Stressful process too with it touch and go whether we were going to be turfed out of our flat before completing here. It was something we said we wanted to do at the start of the year. Felt really unlikely at times - happy we managed this despite everything.
Great week in the Lake District with my girlfriend. Got out doing bigger walks than she has done before and gently reintroduced her to climbing after pushing her too much previously. She also suggested we go the 'scrambly way' up Crinkle Crags which isn't something I ever expected to hear from her even if it was maybe a step of Grade 1.
Week in Pembroke - so good to stay away from home with mates in a campsite, eating out to help out, climbing etc

[northern yob]

I don’t normally get involved in any of this but I’ll do anything for a break from home schooling. I’m definitely feeling the madness setting in after a tough year. To be fair I’ve climbed more consistently this year than the last few albeit mostly on a board though not as much as I’d like,does anyone over 40 (and under 60)climb as much as they’d like?

TRAD CLIMBING

First proper climbing trip in 6yrs so despite being as unfit as at any point in the last 20yrs, there was a high degree of expectation. It did not disappoint. Exploratory trip to Saudi Arabia only recently opened up to tourists. We climbed  various new routes on extremely adventurous terrain. The climbing was always easier than it looked but fairly involved. We climbed 25+ new pitches up to E5 on towers and walls up to 450m,descending all but 3 in the dark. The highlight was the leaning tower of Dissah.[/url]70ED20B7-D82E-4FD6-A95A-F394104A57F2 by jake75uk, on Flickr[/img]

Amazing trip, so good to explore and have some jeopardy for the first time in a while. Also amazing to climb with Ivo again after the best part of 10yrs. Great times with great friends in a great place.

Gimmer with Johnny Brown! Just good to escape to the hills during a tough summer. Got spanked on Eastern Hammer but it wasn’t really a surprise still one of the better days out this year.

Pembroke with Johnny B, El Mocho and Caff. It felt like a stolen weekend amidst various lockdowns and school traumas. It was nice to sit in a pub and rant with mates. I’m always over optimistic with climbing in general and after warming up on some E3’s it was quite apparent that was the grade for the trip!! My route highlight was Deep Throat. The real highlight was being able to be social...

BOULDERING

After a 4 day lock in at the amazing Fat Lamb pub to see in the New Year I dragged the kids (5 and 1) up to Eastby to do Dead babies. As ever I was overly optimistic with the objective given the kids.... As we pulled up I realised it wasn’t that feasible an option with 2 kids, a pram and 3 pads, but after spying people heading up there decided it was now or never. After battling up the hill we arrived in a sweaty and tearful mess to gate crash the serenity of someone else’s session. Fortunately they seemed slightly amused by the over keen dad and screaming kids. After a couple of warm up goes it was in the bag and we descended to the car. It felt like a stolen send that shouldn’t have happened. A good start to a shit year!

Chip shop brawl with El Mocho and Johnny B. Tried and failed before. Persevered with bad beta for way too long! Actually felt quite easy in the end with the right beta  (don’t they always). Classic grit.

Great day at Zarzalejo with Longy and the Shetland pony. After setting a comp in Madrid we got some amazing weather in February. Whilst it was too hot to climb hard it felt amazing after a shit British winter. Bleeding tips a menu del dia ,family and friends in a great location.

SPORT CLIMBING

literally did one route. Staying power at Yew Cogar. Me and the eldest met john and his boy down there for some mid summer sport climbing. We arrived first so I rope soloed it to get a rope up before sending it first go once the belay arrived. Fun day messing in the river and pic nicking! When it goes well with kids in tow it’s great! It usually doesn’t go well...

All in all a bad year numbers wise but that’s not the point, I had some good days with some good people. Roll on 2021

[northern yob]

Balls photo fail

[petejh]

Highlight the photo link and click on the 'picture' icon.

Cool tower! How high is that?

[jwi]

The highlight was the leaning tower of Dissah.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/75076271@N07/50804549947/

Amazing trip....

On flickr.com, click on "Download this photo" in the right corner (on the icon of a downward pointing arrow). Select "View all sizes".  Right click on the photo displayed and select "Copy image address". In this case the image address was https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50804549947_7d17e765dd_b.jpg. Paste this between the image tags.

Code: [Select]

The highlight was the leaning tower of Dissah.
[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50804549947_7d17e765dd_b.jpg[/img]
[url]https://www.flickr.com/photos/75076271@N07/50804549947/[/url]


[northern yob]

Highlight the photo link and click on the 'picture' icon.

Cool tower! How high is that?

Somewhere between 90 to 120m Ivo jumped it the next day which was cool

This thing was around 400 to 450m around the same size as the Titan.

Another 100m one

Thanks jwi and Pete that wasn’t very straightforward for a Luddite

[Alex-the-Alex]

-   Such a good thread. Brilliant to see Yew Cogar appear twice! And Victoria Cave. And Sinn Fein! I always fancied the looks of that. Hope you haven’t written it off DunnyG? Ive always meant to do Comet Wall too so that’s good inspiration to get it done this year Harry. Walking along the top of Guisecliff over Christmas reminded how impressive those cliffs are. Without the cover of leaves on the trees it was like suddenly seeing the bottom through deep water…
-   
-   I feel ive barely climbed and wasn’t going to bother writing this year, but it’s always a positive thread this and reading through other folks posts has made me reconsider my own highlights. Good to bolster the Scottish contributions too.
-   
-   Not much, but here they are:
-   
-   All of the trad
-   -   Grey Slab – Coire Sputan Dearg – the only mountain route all year, but a lovely adventure with a good friend on a cliff Ive not explored before.
-   -   Beer Engineer – Gallanach – Ive always thought there would be potential for trad routes on the local conglomerate. This takes a nice slab and small overhang to finish up a lovely finger crack at about HVS.

-   Only sport
-   -   Large Boy Stops for No One – Loch Buie – Great to jump on Cal’s FA from last year. The moves across the headwall really are quality, more hero climbing!
-   -   Herbie Mhor – Gallanach – The best of the local stuff yet. 25m of smoooooth sailing up a big leaning face with a well-positioned boulder problem to finish. Around 7b. The wall got its back on me later when it spat a block off the top and ricocheted it into my knee…
-   -   more laps of the Gallanach 6b? It is good!  https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/50821244337/in/dateposted/
-   
-    Boulders
-   -   Brandy Stone lockdown eliminates https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/50820673428/in/dateposted/
-   -   Hunker Down 6C – the best find this year was this beautiful lump of gabbro. I fear the locals got wind of the spot as they banned Mainlanders from the Mull ferry soon after.. Will hopefully get back to scope the others out soon.
-   https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/50820383958/in/dateposted/
-   -   G Arete – High Crags – after two months of sausage fingers and no climbing it was a real treat to be able to sneak in a climb on Christmas day.
-   
-   Top injuries
-   -   Nearly popping a hip out on A Deep Sense of Moss – A high heel early on in a session led to a unholy popping sound deep in the groin. haven’t heel hooked comfortably since..
-   -   Sausage Fingers – my own personal plague of 2020… first appeared during the spring as sore swollen fingers/PIP joints on one hand. Though they felt fine when warmed up, they would burn for days after with the skin drying and going flaky overnight. Almost arthritis like… But likely a series of bad collateral tears… a few weeks rest did little to help. The spring bout eventually healed after a few months off. Returned to climbing in the summer, but the sausage fingers came back with a vengeance this autumn. Havent really climbed since. Tried finger curls, voodoo flossing, and now have a number of small finger-fucker rings to massage it, but still reacting. And physio is too expensive.. Slow rehab and strengthening starting again soon hopefully.
-   
-    Other
-   -   Running – partly through lockdown and the above sausage fingers I finally got through the initial discomfort of running and found joy in burning lungs and muddy trails.
-   -   Sourdoughs – Def something worth celebrating. Think ive nailed the sourdoughs, and even better figured out how to get the old breadmaking machine to do most of it
-   -   Loving work (maybe too much..). I just need to watch the number of late nights for the sake of a happy homelife… And make funding more secure..

[Wood FT]

Highlight the photo link and click on the 'picture' icon.

Cool tower! How high is that?

Somewhere between 90 to 120m Ivo jumped it the next day which was cool

This thing was around 400 to 450m around the same size as the Titan.

Another 100m one

Thanks jwi and Pete that wasn’t very straightforward for a Luddite

Stunning. Would love to read a trip report about it

[dunnyg]

So much to do north of the border, you've reminded me that I have only done a handfull of routes up there! Definitely the best thread of the year. I havent written Sinn Fein off, but I will be going with lower expectations and on a less windy day (and will try not to have a hissy). Lovely spot.

[Alex-the-Alex]

I havent written Sinn Fein off, but I will be going with lower expectations and on a less windy day (and will try not to have a hissy). Lovely spot.

  Bleak and beautiful. Id suggest giving it the pad party treatment, but that might take away from the feel of the place!

[205Chris]

Top 4 Boulders - Home

Les Grand Doigts 7C - Froggatt
Climbed right at the start of 2020. A big slice of Fontainebleau right on the doorstep.

Batman & Cherokee Lane 7b+ & 7B - Crag X
I’d tried Batman the previous year and it felt desperate for 7B+ so it was nice to return this year after some lockdown training and tick it off the list. Also managed Cherokee Lane the same session. Another nemesis but it turned out I’d just been holding the left handhold wrong all along. I suspect I will never get two new CragX ticks in a session ever again.


Back Street Mime Artist - 8A - First of the grade.
Spend 5 minutes on social media and you’d be convinced that everyone is climbing 8A within 6 months of putting on climbing shoes. I’ve been climbing considerably longer than that and despite a handful of 7C+s, some Swizzy 8As that weren’t and another 7C+ that took so much more effort to do it felt like it could have been 8A, I’d never managed to climb in the eight grade of the Fontainebleau scale. I first starting trying BSMA in early 2019 and got close, having a number of attempts that failed right at the end. Winter of 2019 / 2020 saw rubbish weather gave way to COVID restrictions which means I didn’t start trying it again until Winter 2020. Having a small toddler meant most sessions were squeezed in by lantern after work and toddler bedtime. A number of early sessions were disappointing, failing to put together any significant links before colder temperatures and more time on the problem meant I was on Redpoint again. In late November I was though to the end, only to catch my left foot as I turned the lip at the end. It was  the type of dab that would barely register on a snickometer, but a dab is a dab. Snatching defeat from the jaws on victory. Elation turned to disappointment and there was no way I could live with myself taking the tick. I had to sit through 3 weeks of rubbish weather and not being able to get out before finally sealing the deal just before Christmas.


Top 3 Boulders - Away

Grasswind 7B+, Crafnant
Between lockdowns we managed to get to North Wales for the weekend. I’d never been to Crafnant before and it was high on my list of objectives. Fortunately the cottage my Mother in Law had booked was in the next village along. Grasswind was the first tick of the day, although I almost had a moment at the top when I discovered the top out wasn’t the rampant jug fest I was expecting.

Reckless 7B, Bickerton
I’m always keen to explore new places and this was pretty much the closest climbing when we had a weekend in Chester. A baking hot day and the crag was the perfect escape from the heat.

Severus Snape 7B+ (flash)
Having cancelled a trip to Font earlier in the year we just managed to sneak a week in the County before the Tiered system of lockdowns came into play. I’ve flashed a few 7bs before and been close to flashing 7B+ but it’s always proved elusive. Having been turned away from a few of my harder objectives by bad weather I ended up at Back Bowden. I’ve always seemed to climb pretty well on Nothumberland sandstone so I figured this would be good candidate for the flash. I harvested the internet for beta, warmed up properly and was rewarded with my first 7B+ flash.


Top pointless challenge - 100 ‘V’ Points in a day
I’ve toyed with the idea of trying to tick 100 ‘V’ points in a day before. I can’t remember where I first thought of the idea but I know Pete Robins did it in Llanberis pass some years ago. I always thought if I was going to do it anywhere it would be on the grit as you can climb loads of slabs / aretes without really expending much energy. However after a few sessions at Rubicon this year I figured I could maybe do it on Peak Limestone. The outcome was far from assured but it was worth a go. Kudos wall is made of this kind thing as you can quickly rack up half the points without having to move your pad further than 30cm to the left or right. Rattling through most of the stand ups on Kudos wall pretty much first go I was feeling confident. I moved over to Caviar start just as it came into the sun and burnt more energy than I would have liked on something I normally have dialled. Leaving Rubicon with 63 points in the bag I was feeling pretty good as I drove up to CragX. Disaster struck as everything apart from Zippy’s traverse had runoff on. I was banking on at 24-32 points from CragX and now I needed a rethink. I raced up to Blackwell dale, same story, more runoff before pinning all my hopes on Stoney Middleton. A quick text home to apologise for staying out later than planned and then I was up to Tom’s roof. I hadn’t climbed here for a couple of years and was still worried I could fall at the final hurdle. Luckily, Power Allowance, Punker Bunker and Tom’s original all went first go meaning I could head over to minus 10 for what was essentially a victory lap. Who should I bump into but big Ron. He asked if I’d been anywhere else that morning and I told him about the 100 ‘V’ points in a day. I said it’s not quite 100 Extremes but it’ll do for me. I think this made him smile.

[Fiend]

Who should I bump into but big Ron. He asked if I’d been anywhere else that morning and I told him about the 100 ‘V’ points in a day. I said it’s not quite 100 Extremes but it’ll do for me. I think this made him smile.

[bolehillbilly]

Nice write up Chris and enjoyed the film. Well done on the 8A too.

[SA Chris]

Top 3 Local

Yukon Afternoon 6C

Crisp November Friday morning at Clash, unemployed, met a couple of mates, following updates from US that confirmed Trump was on his way out. Easy and great circuit before moving to Yukon boulder. Actually flashed this, after beta from mate. Good moves, nice mix of holds, surprisingly nothing too sharp.

Double Tap into PPE 7A

A multi year project tat has gone through various stages of persisting with shit beta, holds snapping, and getting dogged by poor conditions On the day it went, the conditions started of pretty poor, everything was condensing out, and rock going black. Then wind picked up and everything went OK (sticky damp?), dropped the last rockover once after getting through first crux, then got it next go, as it was getting dark. It a link up of two daft eliminates but actually climbs pretty well. Never trained specifically for moves before, it might be harder, could be easier, probably morpho.

Through It All 6C

Strange times 2020. The torrential storm which caused flash floods and the landslide that fatally derailed the train near Stonehaven also brought an enormous amount of rock down Pheppie Burn, perfectly platforming the landings of the crag closest to the burn. Did 5 or 6 new probs there early summer, this was probably the best, great moves up a vertical face, then over a small roof. Andy E did a couple of good ones there too, and there were projects to go back for. Sadly it didn't last, and the first storms of autumn reduced the landing to its former state, i.e.unfeasible. Ah well.

Top 3 Spankings

Golden Brown Sit 7A Clashfarquar

Can't sodding do it. Did the crouch start at 6C with relative ease, but the extra moves or the sit just seem to trip me up every time. Maybe get it in good nick again might make the difference, also not changing beta every attempt.

South Wall 6A+ Bowden

Sure I've done it before, or maybe I cheated round the corner. Either way, couldn't do it again.

Active Service 5 Kyloe

Had a right wobbler mantelling on to the lip, got everything wrong and out of, with only a small Moon pad below me, kids watching on. Eventually reversed, jumped off and went home. Guess I'm not as bold as I once was.

Trad Routes


Only trad I've done this year is toproping with the kids at Logie Head & Meikel Partans. They both did well and loved the seacliff experience.

Sport Routes

Did some easy stuff for the kids to toprope at Kirrie Quarry. Nice enough, but not suited to shorties.

Clipped some bolts at Bolsheugh one evening. Nice to do them again.

Non-Climbing

Amazing powder day at Praz de Lys. Bluebird, perfect snow, great mates, followed by beer and pizza on the terrace. Marred only by my brother losing phone in the snow with loads of photos on it. So lucky to have got it in before everything shut down.

Ace morning surf at Bamburgh. I first went to the beach a Bamburgh on one of my first visits to Northumberland about 16 years ago and thought it would be amazing to surf, but never got it good until October. Quiet Monday morning, dozen or so cheerful locals in the water. Perfect longboard waves, and I hardly put a foot wrong. Great session.

2nd MSV at Aberdeen winter 3k proms running Series. Managed to do all 6 of the races, with top 3 results counting. Some grim conditions, some vey grim, but always a fun crowd and a great series.

Lastly it's been a joy that the kids have really got into climbing. We've never really pushed them before, treated a trip to the wall as an occasional fun activity, but they've both been loving it this year, especially bouldering outdoors.

[Duncan campbell]

Been avoiding this thread as 2020 didnt seem like a year to be celebrated. But I think it’s important to look back on good bits regardless, there is no real rock bottom, there is almost always more to lose. Good to appreciate what is good.

Top 3 abroad

1. La Crema, Siurana. Just mega this, had wanted to do it forever but as it’s always in the boiling sun it’s hard to do. Luckily we had a good spell of strong winds which made it cool enough to climb at siuranella. Very my style being ratty vert, but still found it tough. Had to skip the final clip as I couldn’t clip it using my sequence. Ace rocking onto the slab.

2. San Carlos de la birlocha, siurana. Tried this when it wasn’t windy enough for la crema. It’s a softy at 8a but really unique climbing on opposing Gaston’s. Looking forward to doing the ones around it.

3. El prado del Ray, siurana. Saved this to give it a good onsight go for ages and glad I got on it when I did. Nearly fluffed the top but managed to get back down to the rest, regroup, spot a foothold and do it. Love onsighting!

Top 3 trad

1. Tweetie pie slalom, Lewis. Great rock, moves and gear and a great spot. Fond memories of being on Lewis with Hannah.

2. Red rag to a bull, split rock quarry. Maybe a bit of an odd choice but I thought this was excellent. Fell off the crux first go, but lowered down and had a right battle up the crack after the crux, then that top slab! Wow - a brilliant finale, it’s all there but you are very aware of how big the fall would be if you blew it.

3. Luke Skywalker, Pembroke. I actually fell off but it was loads of fun and Hannah absolutely loved it, which was ace to see. Shame there will be no future days like that.

Top 3 U.K. sport

1. Unleashing the wild physique, cornice. Such a good route! Really technical but came together quickly for me. On the go I did it it felt pretty steady (technical stuff tends to)

2. Tequila Mockingbird, Chee tor. Amazing, wouldn’t expect anything less from big Ron. Felt desperate first go but again not a total nightmare once sussed. Would recommend this very highly. Apart from the start it’s actually perfectly bolted.

3. Crucifixion, Raven tor. Wow, a bit of Spain in the peak! From the 1st belay to the top is pure class. Felt desperate initially but after a few sessions of it feeling miles off on my 5th session I fell off the redpoint crux at the top having given it full beans. As it was after work I didn’t hold out much hope, but after a big rest I pulled it out the bag.

Top 3 boulders

1. Glass slipper, froggatt. Just mint this, tried it years ago but didn’t make much of a dent so didn’t it expect much, but just got it done before it got dark. So good and techy!

2. Tunnel wall, Cromlech. 2 stars but a fun bit of overhanging rats. Especially good as Hannah crushed it too. The start of a good run of form for her.

3. Early doors, curbar. Outdoor have done way quicker had I explored all beta options. Still a great problem and again, great to see Hannah do it especially as she gets scared easily and wasn’t feeling confident on the top.