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Best of 2020 (Read 23061 times)

Fiend

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#50 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 04:13:48 pm
Cheers, sounds typically charming. I  :wub: The Range

Also....

Quote
you can work it out from the description on UKC, except I think the description gets its left and right mixed up at one point which doesn't help the situation.

 :lol:

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#51 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 05:16:11 pm
The crag was unpleasantly crowded and I won’t be going back until the Bristol climbing walls have reopened.
Love it when someone drives from London and then complains that the locals are making the crag busy

Hey, I'm from Bleadon! I'm a lot more local than grockles from Bristol  ;)


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#52 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 05:41:52 pm
the rock is comprised of very hard bits which are too brittle to be trustworthy, held in place by talcy-mud which is too soft to be trustworthy.
:lol: sounds like my idea of hell

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#53 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 06:30:49 pm
Quote from: Duma
[Sacre Coure is ...]
Just brilliant isn't it? We ran out of time/tide for Jamaican Dub, but I'd like to go back for that too.

The Archtempter is well worth doing if you do go back.  Same grade but very different character to Jamaican Dub - a steep corner, a bit loose and scary, but brilliant. Non-tidal too.

Fiend

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#54 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 08:02:33 pm
Addendum / post-script. I completely forgot about last winter's grit bouldering, partly because of the shitting lockdown redefining the year, but partly because really a climber's year is defined by the seasons anyway rather than any arbitrary nonsense like calendars. It turns out I did some great bloques then so...

Top 3 Grit Bloques Last Winter:
Hours Of Practise, West Nab - WESTSIDE - done in about 10 minutes and very nearly flashed due to cheatingly perfect conditions, a wee eliminate slab but it was the best bit of climbing I did all season, with a wonderful "falling upwards" finish.
Rudolph, Shipley Glen - YORKSIDE - just really cool and committing and intimate to do it on my own, with the best finishing hold around. Bryony's Arete at Hitching Stone a verrrry close second.
Dark Horse Direct, Bank Quarry - EASTSIDE - aka Back Street Abortionist - what a line, what a problem, what a shark wrestle of a challenge for me. Varied and action-packed and sneaked in on a day when the main Peak was rain-swept. Peaches And Crust at Shining Cliff a verrrrry close second (hardest thing I did all winter, a fierce fight in a light snow shower). English Voodoo at Gardoms third and a decades old inspiration of Ten Inch Zombies fourth.




Edit: Barrows the Range and South Stack is absolutely full of kneebars. Albeit mostly between brittle quartz fins embedded in talc.

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#55 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 08:15:21 pm

Grasshopper 7C+, Stronstrey Bank this traverses via a crossover into and then up Noisy Cricket 7C. I’d managed to do NC in a session (!) but the move after the crossover was powerful - and hard - and then you had to do some fairly stiff pulling to get to the top. It took two sessions - but it was super satisfying to figure out my own way of doing it, working out where I was going wrong and figuring a way to overcome it. Something Pete Robins said in Grimers Podcast about climbing smarter rang true for me with this. First of the grade for me - and its probably soft - but felt like a real achievement, and that the hard work training had paid off.

Was it originally graded as an eliminate, without foot locks / heel- toes? That was my thought after a morning's work.

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#56 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 08:18:19 pm
Top 3 grit
- Zoo York, 8A. In early 2020, I finally climbed Zoo York. I have been trying to send my project route for 4 years. I am sorry that it took so long. I am proud of myself for doing my lifetime project. I had a fun time bouldering. I will enjoy my golden years.

ZY has been right at the top of my dream list since I first stumbled across it whilst exploring Caley, for 7As, in 2013. And now, it is done. A big fat YYFY.

- Ben’s Groove Sit Start, 7C+. Number 2 on my dream list. YYFY.

- Crucifix Wall Eliminate, 7A, Almscliff. The wall literally left of Crucifix. Tried it loads in the past and genuinely thought it was unclimbable since the sloper is so polished. Anyway, I eventually figured out that with a magical, barn doory, deadpoint, it is possible to fall rightwards into the only position that the sloper works. The psyche was unreasonably high when it first stuck. A 3 star experience on a 0 star climb eliminate.

Top 3 limestone
- Ribtickler 7C+
- Under The Greenwood Tree 7C+
- Mr Meseeks 7B+ / A6 Girls 7C
I wrote these last and I'm bored of my writing. Great problems. Limestone bouldering FTW.

Top 3 other
- Malc’s Arete, 7B. Torridon was the silver lining after a shitty lockdown and cancelling a big trip to America.

- Squelch SS 6C+. "Watch me Darling"
- North Face Direct 5+ / Katie’s Arete 5+ / The Dandy Don's Arete 6B / all the low grade highballs at Torridon. Fuck me all those problems are brilliant.

Top 3 crag moments
- Eskdale (Will Hunt has already mentioned this, but whatever.)
Strong George was, uncharacteristically, getting spanked on Rob’s Wall 7A+, the birthday boy rocks up and casually flashes it as his strongest flash by a long way. Sterling effort, big psyche. 8c Jim arrives, puts in a good flash effort but peels off the top. He then mutters the immortal words “it’s piss up to there, probably only about 6B”. An hour, and 20 goes, later and 8c Jim can’t get back to his original high point and has to call it a day ;D

- Cliff siege. Watching my friend climb DWR, for his first of the grade, after a good ol' fashion siege and a couple of sessions dropping the undroppable! It finally went down with an unnecessarily wild slap to the top. I’d almost given up bringing send beer for him.   

- January Peak weekend. Pre-pandemic weekend trip to the Peak with a hot tub and a good crowd. Finished the weekend by stumbling across those perfect gritstone problems at the far end of Curbar crag, past Art of Japan, just as the sun was setting. Bliss.   
 

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#57 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 10:00:31 pm
Honoured that my world class hubris at Robs Wall has made it into two "best moments of the year" lists.

I went and finished off those problems in the Trench at Curbar today. So good!

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#58 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 10:15:13 pm
How did you do that bastard lanky super-sandbag one in the middle that stars off two decent holds and then requires a Will Hunt / Tomtom manoeuvre to reach the next hangable sloper, a few different postcodes above??

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#59 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 10:23:10 pm
I believe you're referring to the sandbag Trench Flakes at 6B+? Flick left hand to hidden undercut after getting first sloper with right hand. Brilliant sequence and a good idea to try it soon, was mint on them slopers today.

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#60 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 10:25:47 pm
the rock is comprised of very hard bits which are too brittle to be trustworthy, held in place by talcy-mud which is too soft to be trustworthy.
:lol: sounds like my idea of hell

I'd love to trick you into doing some more trad with me - ideally choss obvs - but sadly I suspect that you're less suceptible to being conned into it than Marie is

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#61 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 10:37:51 pm
I believe you're referring to the sandbag Trench Flakes at 6B+? Flick left hand to hidden undercut after getting first sloper with right hand. Brilliant sequence and a good idea to try it soon, was mint on them slopers today.
Christ. I was trying it on a day that was so cold and windy any climbing felt like flirting with injury, and still couldn't imagine holding that first "sloper". Still it's a nice enough spot I guess I'll keep dabbling on it through the years.

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#62 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 10:49:10 pm
I love reading about all your adventures, glories and heartbreaks on here, thanks everyone. I also am grateful for this opportunity to remember all the 'wins' of the year, it definitely cheers me up.

Top Sport
A trio of Yorkshire 8a+'s:
Supercool
The climbing is just fantastic. It was a strange experience as I ended up being filmed for TV and the chosen day was pretty much a write-off due to seepage. Thankfully they seemed pretty happy with 'big fall' footage. Got the actual send on my next session when the route dried back briefly.

Mandela Wow, I never imagined that I would ever be able to climb this. I made good progress after lockdown no 1 but heavy rain stopped play. One day we were driving past Kilnsey and it looked loads drier so I had a 'quick look to refamiliarise' and snuck up on it. Loved taking the victory whip!

Love Sculpture Best route at Yew Cogar? Three tough boulder problems separated by good rests, a perfect route for applying my lockdown no 1 board training. I was really chuffed to climb this as my health was really bad for a couple of months and there were too many days missed when I was out of action.

Holiday Sport
OK, this is a cheat because we didn't have any holidays this year.... But Wales always feels like a holiday...

The Waiting Game I nearly put this on my top spankings list (again) but I did actually climb it in the end... 'only' 8a but boy did it put up a fight! Lost track of how many times I dropped the last move! Also feels sacrilegious to spend that much time on such a short bit of rock on a cliff like the Diamond. Great climbing though.

The Shining Supposedly the same grade as the waiting game? But incomparable I suppose. A huge pitch of technical endurance, fine position especially in the evening light. Undoubtedly soft and a bit of an ego boost after TWG.

Battle of the Little Big Orme The last of the classic LPT 8a's on my list after climbing most of them last year. Great fun with plenty of kneebar action.

Top Limestone Boulders
Not Bad Dave, Woodwell
Pre lockdown send, technically my hardest tick of the year. Took a while to get the heel to work.

Ned's sit, Trowbarrow The first move took sooooo long to figure out. Then it just clicked. The moves on the stand are some of the most funky, class problem.

Sugarfix sit, Warton Think I made this easier with a kneebar so 7B+ only... In a session though. Beautiful place to boulder with stunning views across the bay.

Top grit boulders
Hmmmm.... I'm definitely out of practice at this! However, I ticked 3 problems that had repelled me in previous years:
Sweet Dreams stand, Rocky Valley Dropped the top out in the dark, did it first try next session.

Who Are We Without Moon stand, Baildon Bank
Scary last moves, might have squealed a bit on this!

Slapstick Arete sit, Caley crag I have recollections of being frustrated on this year's ago, but did it in a couple of tries last month. Very aesthetic sequence.

Top spankings
The Keel
So close! Had this all lined up, only to be thwarted by two bouts of pulled neck, several bad health days, some inclement weather and finally covid tier restrictions.

Hannibal Only had one session on this, managed the 7B+ cop out up the corner but too tired to seal the deal on the proper finish and didn't get back to Tom's Roof.

The Power and the Glory / Glorified Finish, Yew Cogar This has a stupidly hard and run out crux, I never felt good on the dry days unfortunately. The one that got away off my sport list.

Can't believe I did no trad whatsoever in 2020!! But we did loads of DIY, reignited our love for our board and got a wonderful kitten. All in all, can't complain.

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#63 Re: Best of 2020
January 02, 2021, 11:47:50 pm
Top 3 Wales

Roof of a Baby Buddha
Special K

Inkerman

Top 3 Lakes
Grand Opera

Stella

Coconutter

Top 3 Peak (Apparently I only go to the peak for the lime...)
Hannible

Pink Indians
Cave Problem

Top 3 Yorkshire (only went to two crags...)
The Keel

Underhand
Karjala


Top 3 Spankings
Flick of the Wrist
Came off hand over the jug at least once and it derailed my decent form in Sept-Oct after investing 5 sessions then the weather capping out.
The Punk SS
Did the stand quickly in January, went back to try the sit in November, could do the sit moves easy but couldn't touch the stand anymore...
My legs after doing Lad Stones and Sampson Stones in one day...

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#64 Re: Best of 2020
January 03, 2021, 02:27:06 am
Top 3 Boulder

Tufa Line V8/9
What a fantastic line. Desperatley hard, somehow surprised myself up it on 2nd session this year. Had tried it twice before but with 3 years between visits, kind of hard to remember beta.




Running On Empty V7
Tried this on and off over the years, fantastic roll-over move.




Cry Baby V8
Very picturesque bloc at a micro-crag. Was put up a few years ago, with me doing the 2nd ascent. Has since had 2 more repeats with both of them sayings its the best V8 in Sydney.

Was pretty happy with the video too.







Top FAs

Made better by actually walking a post-fire crag I found years ago. Found some of the best lines around.

Lolly Pop Cyclops V4/5
Just a fantastic feature with awesome balancey moves.




1841 V5/6
Somehow walked right past this 7 years ago! Aren't you glad when your tastes change?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CCQkneHjdG7Sg5c652v-p8bLyvxFudyGhH34HE0/



Top spanking

There were some others that I spend way more time on but nothing compares to the biggest bouldering fall I've ever seen in person, let alone taken.



Highly recommend clicking through for the clip with the sound up.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDZ1jO7Dp4WCqgYdTfgh574-OrbkRxSWY2wIiU0/

This was the first attempt without a rope and with someone else there. I had built what I thought would be a adequate landing for the 4 pads used, turns out I was wrong. Fell out a bit further than expected, caught right foot on the edge of a pad and left foot on a large sloping rock, these flipped me upside down into a fallen tree.
Thought I shook out for much longer at the break just below the fall, messed foot placement up for the top, glad I came off where I did because the next move was a right heel hook which would've put me straight onto the rock to the left.

Got away extremely lightly. Only injuries at the time were pretty well sprained ankle, some good whiplash and getting stabbed a bunch of times by the fallen tree. Within a few weeks I came to the conclusion that I'd fractured at least one metatarsal as well, which is still plaguing me one and off since August.

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#65 Re: Best of 2020
January 03, 2021, 10:08:23 am

I'd love to trick you into doing some more trad with me - ideally choss obvs - but sadly I suspect that you're less suceptible to being conned into it than Marie is

I hated choss even when I was a trad climber! If you trick me into trading again I reckon it'll be Pembroke or similar.. though Ella and I could both be keen for eye of the tiger and final round if you fancy dovedale and the pandemic allows...

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#66 Re: Best of 2020
January 03, 2021, 11:25:56 am
My list seems a bit lowly compared to some of the impressive lists on here, but it’ll do for me....for now.

The problem with returning to climbing after a long break is that all those things you used to warm up on now become multi visit sieges and there aren’t many problems at easier grades that I didn’t do twenty odd years ago.

It’s also only been this year that I’ve grown to love going out again.

3 Problems I've never done before (which to be honest are thin on the ground)

1. Eat the Light at West Chevin. Tried this in May and fingers were in no way strong enough but went back in May and it went fairly quickly.
2. Precious Things, more of a campus session than a problem.
3. Mickey Luv, not the best problem but the conditions and lighting were just phenomenal.

3  Problems I've not done for fifteen years but repeated this year

1. Whisky Galore, always a favourite and I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve done this in the past. Have used lots of sequences over the years, just whatever worked best on a particular day.
2. Si’s Arête, took a few trips and think the foothold at the start is bigger than it used to be. Worked lots of sequences and got the tick on a cooler day.
3. Manson’s  Wall, close to giving up and then found the ear that you use rather than a two finger crozzly pocket. Always loved this problem.

 3 Crags I've never been to before this year

1. Buckstone Edge, really local and pottered up there quite a lot this year on days when I just wanted to be outside
2. Lindley Moor, even more local and most definitely esoteric.
3. West Chevin, can’t believe I’d never been here before, think it’s great.

Actually had a few more, with Norwood, Shaftoe, Holmfirth, West Nab as well.

3 Spankings

First two are also crags I’ve never been to before.

1. Shaftoe, drove up for a day out and virtually didn’t get up a problem between us. Looking at YouTube, we used some of the worst sequences ever, but still got a beating.
2. Norwood Edge, took a hiding on the boulder we intended to warm up on. Will go back for more.
3. Silver Trout without block or toe hook. So many attempts, so close and yet so far.

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#67 Re: Best of 2020
January 03, 2021, 11:32:38 am
Good cold day helps for silver Trout. One of those that (with the toe around the corner) feels really really soft when you get it. But spits lots of folk off.

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#68 Re: Best of 2020
January 03, 2021, 11:46:49 am
Good cold day helps for silver Trout. One of those that (with the toe around the corner) feels really really soft when you get it. But spits lots of folk off.

Will take your advice and hopefully get it done over the winter. Thank you.

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#69 Re: Best of 2020
January 03, 2021, 12:47:34 pm

I hated choss even when I was a trad climber! If you trick me into trading again I reckon it'll be Pembroke or similar.. though Ella and I could both be keen for eye of the tiger and final round if you fancy dovedale and the pandemic allows...

North Pembroke tho. Amazing stuff there. Get up something at Rainbow Zawn and you'll remember it on your deathbed no matter how much counselling you have after. Don't get up something there and the deathbed will be a lot sooner....

Gollum, fatneck is your man for silver trout I'd have thought??

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#70 Re: Best of 2020
January 03, 2021, 12:49:54 pm
Great reading over these posts, and also to look back over the year and remind myself of the long summer days after the first lockdown where there was time to get out and have a boulder, go for a cycle and cool off with a swim. There were some nice things about 2020 after all.

Top 3 sport routes abroad

Father and Son, Frankenjura
It was such a stroke of good fortune to be able to snatch a trip abroad between restrictions this year and this was one of those classic days that will stick in the mind forever. Top company at the crag with Sam W unable to hold back from throwing himself at his project on his Nth day on, everyone ticking and plenty of banter. Something I've missed a lot this year during socially distant crag sessions. Plus, this was a butter-soft graded route that I did second go, making up a sequence on the hoof. Proof that Barrows is an idiot, and that you shouldn't over-work everything before RPs.

L'Espiadimonis, Margalef
Climbed almost exactly a year ago. After nearly ticking this in a day four years back I was keen to finish it off. The day was misty and freezing; Jules was having a miserable time at the crag. It was incredibly satisfying to snatch this on the "last go, again" after my four previous RPs were ruined due to poor beta. Proof that Barrows is right and you should get an optimal sequence before RPs.

Aitzol, Margalef
Been meaning to do this for years, but you know there are those routes that intimidate you for no good reason? That look foreboding, or seem to have impossible cruxes. This is one of those for me. Graded easier than the two above, but I found it harder and was quite surprised to actually do it. Climbing, eh?

Top 3 Sport (UK)

All at Lorry Park. Spent some time here this summer working my way from right-to-left. Really enjoyed the style of climbing here; vert but not grim.

Dark Matter
An 8b with a crux at the top which is on easy climbing, if that makes any sense. Satisfying.

Confidence Trick
Bit of an odd one to include here since it's really a 7c with one hard move, but I loved it. The easier climbing is really cool and it's a rare thing indeed to find a one move, slab 8a+ with a nice crux move.

Ground Zero
Took me four days to climb a 7c+ but it's a really good one. Climbing, eh?

Top 3 Boulders

Superman
End of an era for me. Came so close years back before it broke, but not been able to get near it since. Bit of gym work over lockdown and some sneaky heal tech made the difference. My first proper 8b boulder and it was really nice in the end to not use the intermediate - that I had persuaded myself was legit because Ben uses it in One Summer...

Gulliver's Travels, Church
The first thing I did after lockdown ended. Maybe because of that, or maybe there's just something really nice about the climbing on this but one of my fave problems ever.

Infinite Suspense, Tideswell
The second thing I did after lockdown. Beautiful climbing, gorgeous spot and just high enough.

Top 3 Spankings

Intercooler, FJ
Everything I hate about failing in one route; dropped the last move on my first RP and got into what I call "Andy Murray" mood, where you become progressively angrier with yourself with every go. Injured my elbow on the second RP and should have walked away but due to self-loathing continued to hurl myself at it, buggering elbow in the process. Idiot.

Keen Roof, Tor
It's only 8a, blah, blah. Why can't I do this? Most days I can piss the move in isolation even when tired, but always drop it on the link. Then, at random, come spells when I can't touch the move. Why? Why? Damn this problem to hell.

Everything since October
Took a three week break at the end of October and haven't been able to climb since. Only just starting to be capable of climbing harder than 7A...

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#71 Re: Best of 2020
January 03, 2021, 01:27:42 pm

I hated choss even when I was a trad climber! If you trick me into trading again I reckon it'll be Pembroke or similar.. though Ella and I could both be keen for eye of the tiger and final round if you fancy dovedale and the pandemic allows...

North Pembroke tho. Amazing stuff there. Get up something at Rainbow Zawn and you'll remember it on your deathbed no matter how much counselling you have after. Don't get up something there and the deathbed will be a lot sooner....

Some great choss in south Pembs too. You don’t even have to go to the Range West briefing to find it either. Most horrific thing I’ve ever climbed is in South Pembroke.

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#72 Re: Best of 2020
January 03, 2021, 04:23:25 pm
Top 3 Alpine Boulders

Tommy's Arete V7, Lower Chaos - Definitely in my top 5 list of all time and best thing I've done in CO


Windy in a Basket V7, Upper Chaos - Such a good line and set of moves on this one


Ball That Jack V5, Camp Dick - Early season mission to a snowy Camp Dick, maybe the best V5 in CO?!?


Top 2 Front Range Boulders - Injuries prevented me doing others quite as good

41st Street V7, Clear Creek Canyon - Amazing rock and movement on this stout boulder


Turning Point V8, Satellites - One of the first boulders I touched moving to CO, good to put it down


Top 3 Other Boulders

All in Joe's Valley:
 - Wills of Fire V6 - Mega classic boulder deserved of reputation even if it did injure me in the send
 - Great White V6 - Unique shaped boulder that climbs very well, applause from the campsite added to the experience
 - Maxipad V6 - Basic and powerful, the dream.


Top 3 Spankings

Injuries - Off for 4 months of the year with injuries and the remaining 8 spent trying (and failing) to recover and get back to form. Keen to see what I can do in this country when I'm fit

Ludder's Pinch V6, Mount Evans - Nails boulder, could not touch it...

Face Full of Brian V8, Satellites - Saw a weather window on the radar and threw myself at this boulder to zero success. Close, a lot.

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#73 Re: Best of 2020
January 04, 2021, 12:08:20 am

Some great reads on here

I has 5 months off with tennis elbow between mid March and mid August where I couldn't climb, lift weights or even ride a bike for more than 30 minutes so something of a shorter year to chose from.

I didn't do any routes or go abroad but I did go to Woodhouse Scar once

Top 3 problems
The Rib  Burbage South. It must have been at least 15 or 16 years ago that I first tried it - possibly longer. I don't remember being that excited on topping out a problem. I was just like a little kid.

Kidneystone Gardoms. I spent far too many sessions on this, but it did feel great when I did it.

Faith LH Roche Abbey. I put this in but it could have been lots of the problems on the brilliant rock there. The rock is so good on the top bit though like Nai said. I only came here for the first time in November and even when its been wet or even raining the rock has always felt dry and grippy over the last few weeks. It is strange though when a convoy of 4x4s turn up then a few minutes later you hear the echoing of gunshot as men with short hair and green jackets shoot things "for fun". Its also strange when a teenage lad and 2 other people who turned out to be his keyworkers turn up , walk up to beef buttress and spend an hour digging up the earth with sticks a few yards away. They were all very friendly though, asking me about climbing and I think all 4 of us had a good hour together. Its also strange when you're about to pull on only to hear someone who has no idea that you're there shout "fuckin ell I nearly fuckin pissed misen" followed by the sound of a small stream 30 yards away. I like Roche Abbey.

Top spanking. Gullivers travels at Church crag. I must have hit that hold at least 25 times, probably more. I just couldn't bloody do it, failing by increasingly small margins. I've got a video on my phone of me hitting and latching the hold, someone shouting "yes" only for me to yet again snatch defeat from the jaws of victory. This year though I might definitely do it.

Other stuff
I know it's lockdown cliche but I got really good at baking bread. Sourdough, wholemeal with seeds, flatbread, chapati, the lot. Managed to score 16kg of high protein Manitoban bread flour in November as well.


dunnyg

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#74 Re: Best of 2020
January 05, 2021, 12:20:31 am
All these in no particular order, and i'm having more than 3 for some
Trad:
- Desperate Dan, had a top rope, but hadn't done the crux when I was trying it. Was buzzing my face off at the top. Good psyche, great climbing. Exciting but reasonable with the coating of pads. Ace.
- Lost Horizon, baggy point Post lockdown breakout to Devon. Double ab approach, down crumbling paths, crowds watching from afar. Gripped for the entire thing. Pleasant, interesting, well protected climbing for almost 50m. Proper bo.
- Daytona wall direct. Long been on the to do list! Dirty headpoint again, the crux of daytona wall felt nails for a while, until I re-figured it out. Cow's mouth was actually busy the day I did it. One of those days where you climb as smooth as a smooth thing and all feels good in the world.
Time after time west chevin. E1 ish. A cool 6Aish boulder problem, to an escapable but ultimately comiting top out. I found this very rewarding, not sure why. Felt like uncovering a rarely climbed gem. Should get more traffic, and the top can be brushed easily. Get to it!

Grit Boulders:
- Horror arete. On the list for a decade, I did some of my first bouldering at the bridestones with a tea-towel but never pulled on. Sublime. Up there with the best problems I've ever done. Jump off tops it off. Magic. Buzzing on the top like on desperate dan.
- Mothership reconnection, thorn crag. Just before March lockdown. End of the day. Worked it out move by move. Took absolutely EVERYTHING I had to get up it. ALLEZ. Not the best problem i've done, but I really do like trying HARD.
- Brimham - had a bit a brimham blitz for a few weeks, highlights include murky rib (amazing moves) pair in a cubicle/the governor (fat sloper action at its best), pinky traverse (for making me think I can climb hard again), and finally ticking a couple of nemesis (Rachels box, black chipper arete).

Not grit boulders
- Rickshaw derider - Had a few failed attempts to visit Goyden when it was in condition and finally got it after trying hard! Went on to do some FAs at another crag afterwards and rounded it off up at alsmcliff as I was still psyched (if massively dehydrated). Proper good day.
-Neds problem (stand) Trowbarrow - Solo mission, warmed up on red wall. Came over to the boulder, got shut down on the 7A so had a sunbathe. Random suggested I get on this. Funky moves, toes hooks, heel hooks, rock over, slopers, crimps. Classy as fuck and I felt like a hero climbing it. Top of my current grade too. Thanks for getting me on it and spotting me if you are reading this! (A guy and a younger Dr chap from liverpoolish on the 5th of Oct?).
- Cream traverse, Hound tor - After an ace day wombling round Hound tor with the Mrs, finally found this boulder. Nearly got the flash, and then had a battle to get back round the corner again!  This was my post phd holiday and first holiday in a looooooong time. This problem was the cherry on the top of all that. Climbing quality problems from f3 to f7B(ish) on boss rock, I felt like a kiddy in a sweet shop with some poor bastards credit card.

New (to me) crags
- Thorn crag, you all know its good,  but im gonna tell you again. It. Is. Good. Inspired to visit by a purchase of the lancashire bouldering guide, top stuff!
- Stony edge. The less vistied cousin of blackstone edge. Great day, some of the rock needs a brush, but loads of low 7s to go at, and the location is lovely. I'll be back on a less windy day (see spankings). Sponsored again by the Lancs guide.
- West chevin - a secret gem in the woods. My escape during lockdown, from early morning sessions to solo lamp sessions among the rope swings (felt like I was in a horror film!). I'm not good with words, but this place made me feel good again after not leaving the house. Under-rated venue.

Spankings theres a few...
- Fight on black. Two sessions and just holes in my finger to show for it. One day...
- Bull rider, attermire. Dropped the 'Easy' end repeatedly, now tis lost to the cows
- Sin Fein (E5), healaugh. Went on a windy day, thought I would piss it. Did the crux once on TR and couldnt do it again. Left a wire. Had a strop. Shitshow all round!
- Beast in the field, shelter cliff. IT WILL GO. One day. it will. I swear it. It better. Now between my house and work, so if we are ever back in the office, I will siege it. It will go... etc. etc.
- Roundhill The walk in. Baltic and I stood in a f'ing puddle in my trainers. Climbed some (poor) 4s and 5s, one (good) 7A and called it a day after an hour as we were both frozen. Wear wellies and jumpers kids. You have been warned (as I was ...).
- Stony edge If its gusting 40, carrying a pad here is a solid workout. Met my mum on the walk out, and she wouldn't even carry it half way back for me  (she might have ended up in littleborough to be fair)

Good year for boulders, but i didn't clip a single bolt. Soz for the essay

 

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