[Wood FT]

or should that be 'Making the best of 2020'

Amid the chaotic world comes the annual solace of the 2nd best thread on UKbouldering (poo-gate takes that honour).

You have all done this before I'm sure but for new entrants, it's your top 3 lists for the year.
E.g. Top 3 boulder problems UK, Top 3 boulder problems abroad, Top 3 sport routes, Top three spankings 
You can get creative as the abroad lists might be slim tickings this year...

As Fiend said that last year, there are still a few days left yet so feel free to hold back and mull it over..... Ali K didn't post his best of 2019 until May! I just wanted to get this thread set up as it always a great source for motivation in an otherwise gloomy ending to the year.

Cheers.

Past year inspiration:
Best of 2006
Best of 2007
Best of 2008
Best of 2009
Best of 2010
Best of 2011
Best of 2012
Best of 2013
Best of 2014
Best of 2015
Best of 2016
Best of 2017
Best of 2018
Best of 2019

[tomtom]

Ace. Been thinking about this a bit this week but was holding back in case an 8A tick came from out of the blue tomorrow :D

[kingholmesy]

Thanks for kicking things off Wood FT - I’ve been looking forward to this thread for a few days.

My fave three routes were my only three E5 onsights of the year - brilliant lines that were all the more special cos I really had to dig deep on them:

1. The Serpent King on the Lizard -  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/vellan_head_area-1305/the_serpent_king-575900

A rarely (never?) repeated Littlejohn route.  We went the week before but it was wet, so did the adjacent E3 (which is also good). Returning the following Saturday it was in the blazing sun. A strenuous well protected start with wide bridging and lay backing leads to an easier, bolder second half. 50 metres in one big pitch. Great stuff.

2. Cornish Roulette on the Lizard - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/choughs_ogo-28247/cornish_roulette-595083

After seeing via Facebook that we’d climbed The Serpent King, Pat himself messaged me to recommend this and it didn’t disappoint. A steady start, a hard roof that I only just scraped through, then sustained wall climbing above. Another 50 metre pitch, this time up a huge, black intimidating wall in the back of a wide zawn. A fab day out and good to get the second ascent.

3. Oceans at Maer Cliff (aka Northcott) - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/maer_cliff_aka_northcott_mouth-2437/oceans-69875

I’ve been looking at this for years, usually while pottering around with a boulder mat on the beach below, but never summoned up the courage to try it previously.  A huge overlap of culm, which forms a truly striking line with climbing to match. Brilliant 3D udging up the groove that is sustained all the way. Marred only but the loose top that requires pulling out on a pre-placed rope.

Bring on 2021 and more Cornish esoterica!

[lagerstarfish]

I did a few easy routes this year. Climbing with my main snowboarding partner from the mid 90s. He's not climbed for 20 years, so I got to rediscover a load of routes that I soloed back in the day, but this time on lead. Highlight of this partnership was...

Hells Bells at Millstone - what an amazing route for HS. As much gear as you want and a big variety of moves. I didn't want it to end.

Next best was Great Crack at Burbage North. Did this with Nai. Hadn't done it since the holly tree was removed and this proved to be a huge improvement. Lovely clean rock. Great climbing and gear.

Slightly different vibe was the direct on Now Or Never - Too Good To Be Forgotten (I think). I did it a few times on self top rope and one day a few weeks later just felt the need to solo it. It used to be a regular of mine, but now I use a different sequence at the bottom. Felt very comfortable. Nice feeling afterwards.

[jwi]

Top three multipitch routes.

Hard to select just three as I almost only did good long routes this year. Thanks to spending a lot of time checking Mussato's book, Bodet/Petit's book and good suggestions from friends.

Patent Ochsner, 7a (6c oblig.) ED1, Wendenstöcke
First and only route in Wendenstöcke. Absolutely amazing place, but tricky weather and very expensive country. Unbelievably good rock. Like Céüse but taller and no polish. Mostly really secure climbing, except for some water runnels that I was shit at climbing, which is good as this route could have a few more bolts imho. Supposedly really well bolted for the area though... I would love to try Millenium or Caminando.

Ayahuasca, 7c (7a oblig.) ED3, Verdon.
As classy as Alix to its left or Série Limitée to its right. Lots of tufas, lots of jugs and lots of small crimps on the vertical parts. Alas, it also has a really hard move on pitch 8 (has to be close to 7a+ obligatory?) that takes down the quality a tiny smidge. Great day out. It would have been even more fun if I had been in better shape for steep climbing.

Les Premier pas d'Elsa, 7a+ (6c oblig.) ED2, Dévoluy (Les Gillards)
50 min from Céüse you can climb in cooler temps on a massive face all by yourself. Hard to choose one route at Gillards, as all three I did were equally brilliant. Selected this one more or less on random. Great day out. Very sustained at the level.


Top three sport routes.

Coliseum, 8a, Rodellar. Sika gone right. This has to be one of the better 8as in the world? Only Les Nouvelles plantation de Christ in Tarn can compete imho.

Pendant qu'il est encore trop tard, 8a/b, Capucin - Saint Antonin Noble Val. A Daniel Grimal route from 1991. On the same day as I did it I also fell on the very last move of the route after 35 m of relentless crimping on slightly overhanging rock. The best route I've done on the sector.

Vielles glories, 7c+, Rodellar. Endurance climbing doesn't get much better than this. First day of sport climbing in 2.5 months, after having been too busy for climbing most of the autumn, so that made it so much sweeter.


Top three edges for finger boarding.

20 mm, one armed with counterweight. Old but gold. Slightly uncomfortable for the skin on the pinkies though.

8 mm, both arms. Nice but not too nice.

One finger 12 mm no hang contraption. Great when not allowed overhead work, and no stretch on the skin on the upper back.

I did no other forms of climbing this year.

[tomtom]

Top three edges for finger boarding.

😂😂

[Plattsy]

Top 3 boulder problem UK
Made in Sheffield, Houndkirk - 7A+
Great roof problem and makes for a decent summer grit project with the right conditions. Over two summers finally managed to suss out how to hit and hold the lip without using a left heel hook which seemed beyond me.

More Cheese Gromit, Burbage South 7A
I'd always dismissed this as a one pad solo boulder because of the landing. One day just decided to give a go and was pleasantly surprised with a quick tick. Lovely moves.

Knick Knack Paddywhack, Burbage South 7A
This one flatters to deceive. It feels super burly and the right hand side pull is a bit fierce. A problem I'd tried years ago and struggled on so really quite nice to come back and tick.

Top 3 1 boulder problem abroad
Movement Activated (droit), Manoury 7A
Tricky, knacky, balancy and a pop for the top.. lovely

Top 3 plat/s boulder problems
Le Plat de Noah, Le Segognole 7A
Popped over the road to have a look at this and it's not much to look at but with a name like that I thought I'd have a go.

Pas à Plats, Apremont Butted aux Dames 4+
A tricky little number with lovely holds. Great name.

La Théorie des Plats (retour), J.A. Martin 7A
Knocked off the R>L a couple of years ago and whilst there with some mates had a play on the retour. Bit tired and duly spanked. Still it's a good name.

Top 3 circuits
This year made an effort to follow some of the circuits from the guides and it's been great to go and search out stuff I'd probably not normally go and try.

BMC Stanage Far Right Heather circuit D
Great circuit of 30 problems. Took me a few goes to complete in a oner after spending too much time and effort working out a couple of the traverses. Nice to finish it and add Crimpy Roof Problem as a finisher. Repeated the circuit since and really enjoyed it.

Rockfax Froggatt Pinnacle Orange circuit AD+
Not really climbed on these boulders before. A short circuit with one really "interesting" problem. Lovely spot for a summer evening bimble around.

Rockfax Ramshaw Orange circuit D+
First trip to Ramshaw. Another short circuit with some great problems and what a finish. I think I climbed the Shark's Fin about 6 or 7 times and every one was brilliant.

[Stabbsy]

Top 3 boulder problem UK
Made in Sheffield, Houndkirk - 7A+
Great roof problem and makes for a decent summer grit project with the right conditions. Over two summers finally managed to suss out how to hit and hold the lip without using a left heel hook which seemed beyond me.

How does this work, Andy? Do you just flick for the lip and pick your feet up or can you keep your feet on elsewhere? Tried briefly post first lockdown and struggled a bit with the heel, been back twice since - once to find a queue and once to find it quite wet.

[RobK]

Top 3 UK Sport Routes
El Rincon 8a (Dinbren) – Oddly not my first 8a (which I did a few weeks prior and one line to the right) but my second. This one felt more unlikely (harder) and I had half written it off as a project for next year. So when I got through the crux and held it together to the chains, it was even more satisfying.

Comedy 7c (Kilnsey) – Took longer than expected but every session was fun. Wanted to do this ever since I first got dragged to Kilnsey back when I was struggling to redpoint 6b+.

Fat Slags 7a+ (Frogsmouth) Is the rock good? No. Are the moves good? Not really. But after two months of lockdown this felt so good.

Top 3 Boulders
Deliverance 7B+ (Stanage) – I rarely boulder on grit and hadn’t even planned to be at Stanage the day I tried this after bailing from a wet Ramshaw. Rocked up at the Plantation for my first ever visit and oddly this was the only thing free. Not a bad piece of rock.

White Rider 7A+ (Rhiw Goch) – This was the first boulder I put on my Welsh to do list when I moved to Chester after seeing a cool photo somewhere. Finally got around to visiting and it didn’t disappoint.

Central Wall SS 7A (Braichmelyn) – Really enjoyed piecing this one together.

Top 3 Euro Sport Routes (not that many to pick from!)
Samsara 7a (Ambolo, Costa Blanca) – A contender for the best route I’ve ever done. Got a tip off about a newly developed sector up the coast from Calpe. Got there and our jaws hit the floor, 25-30 metres of 20 degree overhung immaculate flowstone. Only 4 lines there (6b+ - 7a+) when we went but they were all exceptional, although this was the pick of the bunch. Steep, juggy, pumpy fun from ground to chains. Awesome.

Arete Nord-Est 7a (Casse De Prelles, Ecrins) – A relatively newly developed line that I did on the first day of our summer trip to Briancon (which, looking back, was a stroke of genius). Fantastic steep arete climbing overlooking the valley.

Tout Arrive 7a (Falaise de Fessourier, Ecrins) – 40 metres of everything: slab, techy vert, steep jugs. Lovely.

Honourable Mention That I Didn’t Manage To Tick
Punishment Park 7c (Face Bouc, Ailefroide) – Oh my. One to go back for and one that I can’t forget. The best route I have ever been on? A 35-metre-long granite flake line tipped back at about 30 degrees set high on the side of an Alpine valley. If ever I’m thinking of sacking off an endurance session, I just think of this.

[Plattsy]

Top 3 boulder problem UK
Made in Sheffield, Houndkirk - 7A+
Great roof problem and makes for a decent summer grit project with the right conditions. Over two summers finally managed to suss out how to hit and hold the lip without using a left heel hook which seemed beyond me.

How does this work, Andy? Do you just flick for the lip and pick your feet up or can you keep your feet on elsewhere? Tried briefly post first lockdown and struggled a bit with the heel, been back twice since - once to find a queue and once to find it quite wet.

Yep pretty much a flick for the lip and pick your feet up. A slightly lower profile mat helped reduce the dab potential.

[Fiend]

Prepared well in advance....

Top 3 Trad:
Mantrap, Gogarth - A double injury consolation prize in an abandoned Autumn, but one to treasure. Properly lovely Type 1 ledge-shuffling fun, or maybe Type 0 if that's what looking up at the monstrously majestic magnificence of Mousetrap Zawn with anticipatory glee counts as.
Lady Of Satan, Avon Gorge - Very much a kindred spirit with the above, despite a somewhat different location and being a mere single pitch, albeit one packed full of the smile-raising curios and qualities one desires. The first adventurous shuffle I'd done for a while and quite life-affirming.
Crich Almighty, Intake Quarry - Also a kindred spirit. That day I chatted to Mick Fowler at the crag, got committed on an usually dodgy E3 that I only continued up because Mick was nearby and I couldn't let the side down, and then finished off with what turned out to be an Almighty romp up steep and protectable cracks arching over to a brilliant belay ledge on the crest of this possibly temporary buttress.

Top 3 Sport OS / Flash:
Prickly Heat, Pinfold Crag - I christened August "A Muerte Month" which lasted exactly two weeks before fucking my knee, elbow, and rechristening it "Fuck this cunting shit month". But it started well with a lovely day up at Pinfold, Andy F was gracious enough to put the clips in this route and confirm it was a total sandbag, whilst I managed to avoid falling off any of the multiple cruxes despite myself. Walking back down was possibly the most chilled and calm I've felt all year.
What's Going On, Pinfold - The other end of the Pinfold day and the other end of the challenge spectrum. Delightful and elegant off-vertical teetering in a fine position with the usual Pinfold exposure, we both agreed this was a really charming and underrated route.
This Is Not A Drill, Darlton Quarry - A diamond amongst the very rough, this gem nestles amongst a wasteland of choss that makes Horseshit look half-tolerable. And one of the many nice things, after blasting through the techy, cranky, blind, "think quickly" crux, you get a lovely little rest niche to turn around, wriggle your toes and admire that choss from the sanctuary of a good route.

Top 3 Sport Rotpunkt:
Lightweight, Two Tier - Halycon days lounging on the flat dry grass, watching the rain tinkle down onto the bubbling Wye, chatting geekiness with Stone and Haydyn. And lying awake the night before, running over the fantastic first half of this route in my mind, taking in the pure pleasure of movement.
The Squealer, Lorry Park Quarry - 12 years after my first dabbling with redpointing with Duncan Disorderly in the grotty summer of '08, we both returned for a rematch. One session scraping the moves in mediocre connies, and another session to do it in crisp breezy conditions. A very rare occasion of a redpoint feeling smooth and calm instead of a still-desperate battle.
Coming Up For Air, Moat Buttress - The start of my redpointing season at the ever lovely Moat. Great climbing that perfectly suits me, the redpoint  was good, but blowing the final teeter and taking a good fall on the first session was even better.

Top 3 Bloques:
Yate's Layaway, Harmer's Wood - a Fatneck pro-tip 2 days before the first fucking lockdown. Much easier than the Harmer's V4s, and very good, what an elegant line.
AT148MP, Stanage Plantation - the first vaguely tricky thing I did after knee recovery and elbow stabilising. Mint connies at the Plantation and as always lovely to be above and distant from the Zippy's dabtrain bellends, on this elegant mezzanine with this eliminate and appallingly-named but cool, underrated, cranky teetering frictional wall problem.
Short Problem, Blackwell Dale - Why did I enjoy this given how awful lime bouldering is?? Maybe that it's an actual line of least resistance with an obvious start and finish. Maybe because it's the equal hardest lime problem I've done and required a good battle. But mostly because I went there in the pissing rain and it was bone dry....

Top 3 Abroad:
Fuck off.

Top 3 Nu Stuff:
Nope.

Top 3 Spankings:
Actually obeying the first lockdown unlike half the other cunts around.
Twatting my knee and elbow in quick succession whilst at peak fitness.
Digestion still minorly but persistently cunted.

Top 3 Learnings:
I can, theoretically, come back from the bleakest pit of non-climbingness after a long time off, and with a suitably steady / gentle path, regain my normal form.
Pushing sport climbing is good enough to give me confidence / fitness for trad, assuming it's done in the right way (mixing redpointing, onsighting, and lots of falling practise).
Drop knees are stupid. Hammering the fingerboard straight after getting a lower limb injury is even more stupid. Keeping pushing at wall and gym with a tweaky elbow is really stupid.

[csl]

Had a surprisingly good year considering I didn't climb outside till the end of July, taking a month off work in the summer really helped. Managed to get psyched on sport and trad. climbing again having just been bouldering outside irregularly for the past few years. Looking forward to 2021 and hoping I can maintain the psyche.

Top trips

Weekend in Pembroke. Did a bunch of the easier classic's I'd not done before including Chimes of Freedom and Riders on the Storm. Dropped the ropes in the sea, shat myself on some hanging belays - perfect.

A couple of trips to Portland to meet up with Duncan. Great company as ever and on the last one I climbed Road Rage at Cheyne Weares which was amazing, especially considering how hard 6b had felt 4 weeks prior. Went and climbed Temporary Lifestyle afterwards, a great easy DWS.

Had a stag do to attend in Oxfordshire which didn't start till midday, so naturally I woke up at 6am, drove 3hrs to Biblin's Cave and did the excellent Pop for the Top and The Bulge, was all packed up by 10am, and the stag do was quite fun too.

[Stabbsy]

Bit of a lean year - no climbing over lockdown 1, then took me a while to get comfortable with the idea of climbing on a rope again. Think I managed two or three trips out before the lime conditions meant it was back to bouldering again. Saved by the addition of a shed board (thanks to highrepute for joiner/carpenter recommendation).

Top 3 1 routes, UK
Main Motor Mile, Cowdale 7a+ - I remember looking up at the crag from the road some years ago on the way to Staden and thinking I should check it out at some point. Was pleasantly surprised by the climbing, less so by my (lack of) fitness for anything more than 5 moves long.

Top 3 boulder problems, UK
Chiggers with Attitude, Lees Bottom 7A+ - To be honest, I'd have tried this just for the name but also a good problem.
Goose Grease LH/Sweet Cheeks, Lees Bottom 7A - Just a link-up, but a pleasant way to climb that bit of wall. Avoids the snatchy start of Toit du Cul de Lees and the finish of Goose Grease (as the undercut was hanging off) to give a nice series of moves. Not sure it deserves it's own identity, but someone had claimed it as Sweet Cheeks on UKC.
Cock o' the Rock, Stanage 6/7 something - Who knows what grade it is, but it's a really nice move pulling on with left hand on the sloper and left foot on the lip. I should go back and try from lower.

Top 3 shuffles, UK
Cripple's Crab, Freda's Buttress 7A+ - Lovely place to be of a summer evening.
My Little Conie, Conies Dale 7A+ - Enjoyable afternoon out with a good mate. Possibly the first time I climbed with anyone post-lockdown and nice to get back to Conies again. Picked this one at random from a number of similar link-ups and shuffles we did on the same day which were all pleasant.
Zippatricks/Beach Bum, Secret Garden 7A - Don't think I'd ever done the harder finish to this before?

Top 3 2 "new" problems, UK
Dancing Man Indirect, Smallfield 7A/+ - Dancing Man LH into Smallfield Lip.
Dancing Man Superindirect, Smallfield 7A/+ - Reverse of Boning Technology into Lager Lout to finish along Smallfield Lip.
Probably not new as they're relatively obvious, but Dancing Man Indirect is really worthwhile and one of the nicest sequences of moves in the roof IMHO. Incidentally, having had a couple of visits here this year, I wonder if the problems as currently described on UKC/Peakbouldering are a bit out when compared to Mike/Tony's originals - RHS of the roof makes sense, but LHS less so. This may well be why their grades seem a bit overcooked as I think what they call Lager Lout is what we now call Dancing Man LH Direct and what we/UKC call Lager Lout is what they called Boozed Up.

Top 3 board problems, my shed
Stabbsy Five Bellies (Blue Feet) 6B+ - First long term project, probably took a few sessions in the end. The other problem I set on the same day is still holding out and may even reach the heady heights of board 6C+.
Easy Come, Easy Go (Wood Domes) 6B - Hardest problem I've managed on the shit wood domes.
Power Pinch LH (Blue Feet) 6B+/C - Last new problem of the year, unless I manage anything today. Totally basic, but really satisfying.

[spidermonkey09]

Been looking forward to this, some good posts already, keep them coming! On balance this wasn't a bad year for climbing considering I couldn't get going at all until May. Everything UK based as I never managed to escape.

Top 3 Malham routes

Spent a good chunk of the summer and autumn here so seems fair to give it proportionate exposure.
GBH the first hard route of the year, managed on the last day of a week long trip to Yorkshire in the van. Amazing pumpy climbing with barely a pulldown hold on it.
Mighty Fine Ass Was really impressed by this. After binning it one move from the end it felt like a path in mint conditions the next session. Should get way more traffic as it isnt too bad for the grade either.
Overnite Sensation A 4 star experience after nearly falling off about 5 times on the lower wall. A marginal kneebar allowed me to get my breath back and top felt pleasingly steady. Clearly the kneebar tames this and probably makes it soft 8a+ but still satisfying.

Top 3 routes everywhere else
Actually did a reasonable amount of sport climbing in other places as well this year so plenty to choose from.
The Sea Is A Brown Paper Bag, Chee Dale absolutely nails but brilliant as well. Brutal technical crimping into a butch middle and extremely fluffable top sequence. Took several trips up there to sort it out but eventually did it the first time through the lower wall. Would have liked to do Vision next door but it was getting so hot there we sacked it off.
The Boltest, Long Tor had to settle for a variation start after getting shut down on the slab by my T rex reach, but the upper wall on this is so good. One of the best 7cs in the Peak.
Staying Power, Yew Cogar a brilliant day down there doing Cruisin, this and Devils Grip, but this was easily the best. The initial flake looks piss but really makes you work. The headwall is tough to onsight but steady when you know where the holds are. Lovely crozzly rough rock all the way; ace.

Top 5 boulder problems
A reasonable amount of bouldering this year prior to lockdown 1 and in the autumn, so have allowed myself 5.
West Side Story, Burbage
A brilliant zen experience where every move felt piss after getting closer and closer during the session. Climbed the top wall in about 3 seconds to avoid thinking too much. The best problem in the peak I've done, possibly the best full stop.
Small Is Beautiful, Burbage The last problem prior to lockdown but what a beauty, a John Allen masterpiece. Took a while to unlock the starting moves before I took some scary spills from the top break. Retreated to fight another day and ticked it swiftly the next week with spotters nearby. One of the best of its grade anywhere.
Squelch, Torridon This felt like a consolation prize after not doing Malcs but was still an excellent problem in its own right, especially from the sit. Amazing line, amazing movement, scary top out. Mega.
Hurry on Sundown, Baslow Toss up between this and Balls Test but this just squeaks it by virtue of being the better line. Gritstone distilled and better than Flatworld.
My Apple, Rowtor a Christmas Eve tick, by myself. I had only intended to suss it out for another day but the initial section was easier than expected and I was quickly falling/bailing from the move onto the slab. After considering my options I fetched another pad from the car and went all in on the next go. With a massive effort I got my feet onto the slab and wobbled my way to the top with the pads in completely the wrong place. A massive wave of relief having topped out; a 5 star experience! Quality problem, probably a bit easier for the short and well worth seeking out.

Top 3 spankings
Some good contenders here that are still winding me up today!
Malcs Arete, Torridon I really should have done this but just didn't have the guns after a summer sport climbing. Optimistic it will go swiftly next visit but that top move is hard. With the sun setting on the last day of the trip I revved up for the hail mary go, with Andy E and 36C giving moral support. Pulled on ready to give it the beans and binned the first move straight into the bog. You have to know when you're beaten!
RnP, Cornice Got through the start of this once at the end of a session and dropped it 2 moves from the rest, completely powered out. Inevitably it got wet and that was it for the season. Another one that a lack of bouldering power held me back on. I would have sacked it but was sucked in by the upper wall, which is probably 7c+ and has some amazing moves on it. One for the future.
Vision of Loveliness, Chee Dale
Only a few goes at this but found it really hard despite enjoying the moves. A few return visits but made no headway and went backwards if anything.

[Wil]

I did very little climbing this year, but still managed a few good days and did a few really good routes.

Top 3 trad routes

Very little to choose from, but a few of real quality. I had a trip to Lewis at the end of July with unreliable weather, but we climbed every day. Hard to choose the best of them.

The Painted Wall, Mangersta
I interviewed Cubby at the start of the year. He made the first ascent of this route the week I was born. It's a great setting in the zawn with several good routes on this face. This one gets E4, and seemed to have a reputation for being bold. The climbing is very steady and there's plenty of small gear, and some bigger pieces. I'd wanted to climb this one for years and it was great to be able to send Cubby a pic afterwards too.

C Route, Dow crag
Dragged So up this as part of our training for the Cuillin Ridge (which didn't happen). Had the route to ourselves, quite lucky given how busy the Lakes was. Met a chap on the top who was walking around holding his pants in the breeze, he'd been for an impromptu swim and was trying to dry them out. He looked so happy to be out on the hill, if a little embarrassed to be caught.

Neptune, Dalbeg
I seconded this one. A wonderful piece of rock, a shame that a few wet streaks (and a lack of climbing fitness) meant we didn't try any of the other routes on the face.

Top 3 sport routes

I don't think I can justify these! I did a bit of sport climbing. A quick hit at Moy Rock on the way back from Lewis was probably the highlight. I had a muddy weekend at the Cuttings and did a few local routes since moving to Edinburgh, they were ok.

Top 3 bouldering

I don't think I could name many problems I did this year except Teck Crack. I had a great day on the Spring Boulders in May, I'd somehow avoided them before. Great easy problems and a few scrittly scares - this was the first trip out after lockdown as a birthday treat. I spent some time in the Churnet too, and had a lot of fun there, having only visited once before.

Top 3 spankings

I tried Want Out at the Cuttings years ago and didn't get it. We didn't have great conditions or fitness for the only trip to Portland of the year, but I really should have put this to bed.

I had a day out at Hen Cloud before moving north. Didn't take enough clothes and was freezing all day. Couldn't feel my hands and wasn't fit/confident for grit at any rate and got spanked by Bachelor's Left Hand.

Fickle Finger of Fate. I actually did all of the hard climbing after a few goes, and felt good, if a little surprised, but I totally bottled the topout and got my mate to drop a rope. I was glad!

Top 3 Life

With climbing being curtailed my real top 3 this year is a bit different.

We had a wonderful 5 days sea kayaking around Applecross and Raasay at the end of September. We learned new skills, saw dolphins, porpoise, sea eagles, some great fossils and more. Our final day was spent paddling across one of the deepest sounds in Scotland in low mist, which was magical, just that hint of blue sky above and quickly feeling completely isolated until we sighted the run down the coast back to Applecross.

Bla Bheinn traverse We'd hoped to do at least part of the Cuillin Ridge, but we only had a 1 day weather window. So we did this traverse, which is a brilliant day out and was a proper hard-to-escape mountaineering adventure for SO, who is gaining confidence scrambling. I think the ridge would have been too much to be enjoyable for her at this stage, so this was a good stepping stone.

Finally accessing counselling. I've been in (mostly out) of the system for a few years trying to get a meaningful intervention for anxiety issues. A few events at the end of the summer pushed me to do it privately, despite the cost and insecure income on my part. It's been a worthwhile investment, even if it left me pretty broken for the first month or so, and it's begun a fairly lengthy process of untangling the major from the minor which can hopefully continue in 2021.

[Hoseyb]

Gonna have to be creative as its been a weird year, limited access and a lot of hoovering / tidying up before the next instalment of NWB.

I've not been on a rope at all..

5 Best new boulder experiences.

Not nessarily the best boulders (need repeats to determine that)

1. Trev's last wave at Marchlyn.
A bloc I've ignored for several years turned out to be ace, and climbed in memory of a friend who passed on this year.

2. Waiting for Vizzini at Clegir
A highball arete I've known about for years but the landing was dog dirt. With the clegir resurgence in lockdown I was keen not to lose it to a young buck (or Panton) so built a fun patio, and borrowed pads from the local mob.

3. My Personal Space Rocket on Fron Llwyd.
Just when all my esoteric spaces were invaded, I visited someone else's and found this soaring highball grit arete, the best thing is it's only 6A!

4. Seamus Low Start at Marchlyn
Finally breached the steepness on the Marchlyn super boulder. Confirmed at 7A+, and sort of closing a chapter up there.

5. Arrietty at Ymyl Gwyn.
Opening a new chapter at a new spot, one that will work best with friends. A lovely highball arete.

3 Best adventures in sillyness

1. Reopening the tunnel between filmset and Gideon, a decade after I last did it. Lots digging and trundling.

2. Moving a massive boulder using a small crowbar, a car jack and a brain. Been blocking the end of one of my esoteric boulders since I developed it a decade ago. Finally managed to get a scheme together to shift it.

3. Getting myself off the mountain after crocking myself on a highball.
Not everyones idea of fun, but it involved a lot of ingenuity, determination and no third party.
This also counts as this year's spanking.

[James Malloch]

Crap year for climbing.

Top 5 boulders: (all at Birkrigg Quarry, Ulverston).

1) L-R Traverse
2) R-L Traverse (climbs very different)
3) L-R-L Traverse (all the experiences)
4) L-R-L-R-L Traverse (was novel)
5) L - halfway right - up - all the way right - down - halfway left - up - all the way left (to the start). A project of one of the locals which I was happy to get done before getting injured and then not climbing since.

Did (I think) one sport route at Masson Lees. Really nice 6C before injuring myself on something a little harder.

Went on a lovely 3 day canoe trip too which was great fun. Nice to do something a little different.

[turnipturned]

Not a bad year considering all things.

Top 5 boulders

Superbloc (8A+), Gardoms- got to be one of the best 'hard' boulders in the UK. Went relatively quickly which was both a surprise and a relief.

Vault (8B), Hartland- had a lovely family holiday to Cornwall. Managed to get out for quite a few, half day boulder sessions (which I guess tidal bouldering is quite good for). First 8B in a session, probably means it is not.

Master of stone (8A+/B) Hepburn- Great rock quality and climbing on this. Again went pretty quickly which was nice.

Colonel Hathi (8A+)- Swarth Beck- awesome board style climbing on a really steep face. Once I figured out what a 'Clock' move was, it all came together. I did the cop out right exit as I was on my own, so keen to return for the full line and Aidan's new addition.

Before the rain (8A+/B)- Cloughton- little known venue on the east coast of Yorkshire (probably better known for its point break). The infamous 'wedged block project' first climbed by Mike Adams, randomly remembered about it on a family visit to the east coast. Another surprise quick one.

Top 5 sport routes

I had big plans to hit the sport climbing hard this year as I had no summer bouldering trips planned, but after my second session at Hollywood bowl, I went to Gisburn and feel off my mountain bike and ended up doing a grade 2/3 shoulder separation. I did however do illywacker 4 weeks after as I said I would to Ben on the way to A&E. Probably a bad idea. Managed to get back climbing relatively hard after 6-8 weeks. Lucky.

Top spankings

After many years off a mountain bike, I decided I would buy one during lockdown, third time out, 200m from the carpark I fell off and broke my shoulder. Quite funny in retrospect.

Cypher, the saga continues. God I find it hard, really spanny, so do slightly different beta to the norm. I did have an ever so close go today, so maybe I can start 2021 off with a bang.

Top life success

Became a father in Jan. Was all a bit stressful as my wife got diagnosed with ICP in early Jan, so the little one came a bit early and was very small. Been a challenging year not being able to see grandparents for large parts of the year. But what an amazing year, she is awesome.

Finished my Masters in Flood risk and coastal management and got a distinction. Pretty proud of this, did it over three years while working full time. I am also quite dyslexic and not very academic, so always struggled with education. (I also finished my final assignment in the hospital, nightmare)

Started a new job in April working for the National Rivers Trust. Bizarre time to start a new job, but really loving the work. Leading on a project looking at establishing the first of its kind ecosystem service market at a catchment scale using green and social investment. If it works, it could really provide a solution to funding nature recovery at the scale and pace that is required. Really rewarding working on something that could truly make a difference.

[monkoffunk]

My climbing year was characterised by a handful of great days out on routes I really enjoyed, but mostly didn’t tick, and I’m totally fine with that.

Top three spankings

Putting this top, because they were the better routes/experiences. All of these were stamina/power endurance based, which I lacked. All were probably also effected by weight. My lowest weight this year was about 5kg heavier than my lowest in 2019, and I maintained it for only the shortest period of time (). With that said and done, trying these routes brought me the most joy and were the most inspirational. Got me back to enjoying a process without knowing if it would ever result in ‘success’ and pulling moves for the sheer fun of it.

Tennessee 7c

A dream route for me. One of the better Portland 7cs. A route that would be good if it was somewhere else, and unlike the style of the popular crags. Sustained, overhanging, big moves on big holds, but with two cool, techyish boulder problem cruxes. I was really pleased to do every move on this on my first attempt. I feel like this one would have gone with more time, but conditions weren’t often on my side (its soaked without the right wind and sun), and the window of opportunity to get it done within the tides isn’t long. All that added to the experience like having to bail at the last minute off the route and escape from the incoming sea. One of my best climbing days.

Zinc Oxide Mountain 7b+

An ongoing battle, and again, no where near the fitness. But it did seem doable if form at some point coincides with a visit. I still enjoy this route every time I reacquaint myself with it. So far I’ve yet to become frustrated and each time I fail I’m happy that I get to come back.

Road Rage 7b+

One session on this (I think) which was my second session in total, separated by a number of years. Also fantastic, something well within my potential when I get it together. Another great day out meeting new people (socially distanced at a time when local cases were at their lowest). Watching another climber on Illusions from the top and seeing how amazing the moves on that looked was worth it in its own right!

Top three sport routes

A short list of actual ticks above 7a. 5 in total. 2018 was worse, but 2019 was 8a year, so I had hoped to do a bit better! However....

England’s Dreaming 7a+

Took me far too many goes, quite incompetent! One move I kept falling off even though it wasn’t that hard. Hannah pulled off an awesome on sight. Great movements, and again, my style. On the red point I pulled so hard that the tip of my left index finger went numb for several days, but it got the job done.

Psychosomatic Addict 7a+

A left over from another year! Again several goes to get it finished before realising that there was an incredibly easy sequence at the top that I had totally missed. Every day is a school day.

Spanner Eyes 7b

The only thing I did quickly. Very soft, but I needed the encouragement.

Top three one boulders

Way more sessions than sends!

More days that were good just for being out, pandemic was a chance to visit less popular crags.

Cavity Search 7A+

The only thing from my the list of problems I wrote at the start of the year that I got done! This has been a 4 year on off battle, with a number of sessions unable to do the moves. Finally all came together and went first go one day in September. Excellent problem, cut loose on a mono in a roof. Want more could you want? I still think its pretty stiff for the grade!

Top three life (Last but not least)

1. Having a baby in October. Basically the best thing ever. She’s great.
2. Watching an incredible sunset on Portland in summer after a full day climbing and swimming in the sea.
3. Seeing everyone pull together at work during the height of covid. As hard as it was at times in PPE in the heat, was good to be able to do something.

[teestub]

Counted back and I had 49 days on rock this year which was more than I had thought. Quite a number of these were in horrendous conditions during the summer but I still feel fortunate to have had the opportunity. No trips abroad this year, and no roped climbing of any sort as usual!

Short on volume and difficulty of ascents this year, but some quality to make up for it.

Top  Boulders UK
Severus Snape, Back Bowden. Last outdoor session before most of us decided it was a bad idea shortly before the first lockdown started. Great climbing on good spaced holds, glad I'm not any shorter! The sort of thing Fiend would write off as indoor climbing nonsense

Texas Hold 'Em, Trowbarrow. Got stuck into the S Lakes lime after lockdown easing, lots of 6AM starts to try and get some half decent connies, but still climbing in hot and humid weather most of the time. Day I did this one I was finished by 9am! Great problem for any rock type not just limestone and certainly the best I have done in the South Lakes.

Bull Wrangler, Attermire. Finally got around to checking out Attermire this summer after Will going a couple of years before and noting the potential. Great spot in a beautiful setting. I thought this one was better than its neighbour with nicer holds and more horizontal climbing. Matador it the plum line of the crag and one of the best harder lime problems I've seen. Shame about all the cow poo and mud, it was nice early season when it was completely dry underfoot!

Occam's Razor, Honister. Everything I look for in a lakes venue, classic problem in a beautiful location off the beaten track so you don't have to deal with any tourists. The lack of indoor climbing or board climbing left me with very poor session fitness this year, so everything has been a bit of a race against the clock. Was happy to pull this one together before the tank was empty, look forward to another day up there art some point trying the harder variation. ALs collected a pad full of various car trim from the scree around the boulders, not sure how fast the crash must have been for the debris to end up there!

The Terrace, Portland. Good rock,  beautiful setting, great climbing, and a beach 10 minutes away for the family to go to. I thought Portland had great potential for a family holiday destination, we were staying in W Dorset so only had a few days over there.

Top Spankings
Anything hard on Portland. Confirmation for me (if any was needed) that Huffy is a total beast.

Matador, Attermire. After taking the piss out of Will for falling off the easy bit a the end of Bull Rider 2 years ago, I fell off Matador in exactly the same spot. Karma is a bitch. Then it rained, almost constantly.


Top Stupid training things that aren't any good for climbing
Lockdown left a lot of time for messing around in the garage which is too low to build a wall. I still felt fortunate to have the space, several fingerboards and a lot of iron.

32 kg Kettlebell Snatch. Right hand only, left hand lagging behind!

2.4x BW Deadlift. Equalled a previous PB but 2 kg lighter bodyweight, didn't quite manage to add any more weight to the bar as I found that heavy deadlift sessions would ruin any other sort of training for at least a couple of days, so I kept it lighter after that and worked on speed.

[Bradders]

Happy New Year everyone. Lots of great posts already 

Top 5 Boulders Grit

- Various on Demon Wall Roof; I had a nice little run in January & February just going up and ticking off things on here that had always eluded me previously, including Stu's Roof, Bruno's Roof and, hardest boulder of the year, Earocist. Came out of it feeling really fit and strong, only for life and lockdown to ruin things.
- Ian's Roof; absolute nemesis problem finally conquered. I lived 10 mins away from Woodhouse Scar for 18 months, and had lots of sessions, falling off the end loads of times. Moved away and left it for a year, then came back and managed to smash it out in a couple of hours, utilising that fitness from Demon Wall Roof. Great feeling of progression.
- Small is Beautiful; just a great problem on a lovely day.
- The Fox; one of Almscliff's best lines? Should really see more attention. Done on a warm but wonderful day in February. I'd gone to try to finish Earocist but as it was so warm I had to wait until the sun went. In the meantime there was a big pad party down at the Virgin boulder (remember when those were still a thing?!), so I got involved to do this, The Gypsy, Gypus and The Lady. Good times.
- Karjala; further evidence that Crookrise is Yorkshire's best crag. Great to flash it having saved it for such a long time.

Top 5 Days / Boulders Rest of UK
- Stella; had been wanting to visit Lad Stones for ages. Finally made it happen on my own, which made it a pretty scary experience, so it felt great to do this in a few goes.
- Once Upon a Time in the West Sit; on one of the few team days out of the year, which was great in itself. Good weather made it extra enjoyable, and it was even better to just scrape up this by the skin of my teeth at the end of the day, fully cutting loose at the top, having struggled on the top moves earlier.
- Coconutter & Atom Smasher Sit; had a brilliant first visit to Gouther with Yetix. I'd wanted to go for ages, and somehow managed to get there on an absolutely perfect day in November. We had the place to ourselves, I felt good, the weather was mint, and I somehow managed to pretty much climb everything I wanted to do there, including these two stunners.
- Severus Snape & Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy; both really nice markers of progression, in slightly different ways. Last weekend before first lockdown, Severus Snape was one I'd looked at years ago, when it was way above my level, and I couldn't for the life of me work out how it was even possible. Did it in a handful of goes in the end. Meanwhile I'd tried Hitchhiker's a couple of years ago and been completely shut down, despite 7A+ normally being well within my capabilities. Lots of board climbing later and again it went in a few goes. Perfect day at the crag too.

Top 5 Sport
- Smooth Torquer; after saying I should try sport climbing for years, 2020 was the one, and this was the first route I'd ever tied in for, so it was nice to wobble my way to the top on the flash. Probably couldn't have picked a better first route for a heinously unfit boulderer.
- WYSIWYG; tried this same day as ST and it felt a lot harder, then had another session shortly after and, although I did all the moves, I couldn't quite imagine stringing them all together. Happily went away and did some training, came back in a month or so and it felt like a different route, although the finish was still pretty close to the wire!
- The Jim Grin; just a great route at a great crag. Spent some thoroughly enjoyable days and evenings here over late summer. Perfect crag for a boulderer to get going with sport climbing. Notable because my first go up it was a total shambles, but next go, knowing where the holds were, it all went pretty smoothly.
- Haslam; another banger, with a cool hard crux move and great, flowy climbing lower down.
- Cold Turkey; not as good as the others but notable because I basically fell up it on my 2nd go, last go of the day, knackered and not really sure how I was still holding on I was so pumped.

Top Spankings
- Life in general; pretty much everything that could go wrong, did, the only exception being moving house to a great place.
- Pinch 32 Sit; so, so close in a couple of sessions just before first lockdown. Still haven't been back. High on the list for the next month given it's so close.
- Low Rider; why can I not just go back to things quickly?! Two sessions in January, dropped it at the break on my best link. Still haven't been back. At least I've written down my beta now.
- Launch Control; everyone else seems to piss this but I find it absolutely nails. Three sessions this year, two in previous years, and no tick.

Top walks with my partner
- Blencathra; on an utterly perfect day in Summer, with the place bizarrely quiet.
- Snowdon; cold and soaked to the skin in August, but loads of (type 2) fun.
- Whernside; great way to spend Christmas Day, freezing cold and only saw a handful of other people out.

[Wood FT]

Great posts already.

Top three sport routes:
Ouijaboard, Cheedale Cornice 8a
I had written this route off as nasty in the past. Watching a better climber than I use a rather flamboyant sequence got me interested again. A very cool route with not a single wasted move from floor to top. I fell from the chains the go before I did it and found myself able to laugh about it which was refreshing!

Vision of Loveliness, Upper Two-Tier, 7c+
A lovely evening on the ledge with a good friend on a gem of glued-up Peak limestone.  I had been extolling the Cedric Lachat raspberry blowing technique and was so wasted on the 5th go, that we just shouted at each other in ‘French’. The route has a memorable ‘bowl-over’ move after a small traverse and felt fantastic to reel it back in after a wild slap. Worth the abseil approach.

Orange Sunshine, Two-Tier, 7c+
I think this is my first Jerry Moffatt route? Small, powerful and perfectly formed. ‘That’s just like me’ I kept repeating to myself, trying to follow Jerry’s guidance from Mastermind. It isn’t like me but it did help to back myself on routes more, with a relatively quick ascent (for me) being a product of that self-talk.

Top three Frankenjura sport routes:
Dala, Obere Schlossbergwände, 7b
When the going gets tough…. find something steep and juggy. Climbed with dripping sweat stinging my eyes. Off at the chains onsight after a momentous 3-bolt battle…

Isolation, Grüne Hölle, 7a
The first route out of the van and absolutely buzzing to be in the ‘jura jumping between pockets. A highpoint it would later appear!

Verlobungsweg, Weissenstein, 6a+
‘Yeah, I climbed a few Gullich routes…’ even with this lower grade route you could feel the measure of the man. Lucky bar stewards lording it up around the Frankenjura putting up first ascent classics across every grade.

Top three boulder problems:
Woolly Mammoth Stand, Hollin Hill, 7A+
The first venue after lockdown, I ran to the crag I was so excited. A one move wonder on a slightly suspect patch of mag-lime but this may as well have been Ceuse for me at the time. Saw a Bullfinch on the way out. Very, very happy.

Punker Bunker, Stoney Middleton, 7A+
I was always shit in Tom’s Roof, I’m still shit but slightly less shit now. If you can have fun in here you’re alright by me.

White Rabbit, Hueco Boulder, 6C
Climbed in what will now be known as the BC period again (before covid). I’ve been going to mag-lime venues for years but over the winter started going to more esoteric venues and the Mad Max vibe of this area provides a full experience in particular.

Top three Deep Water Solos:
Manilow Magic, Berry Head, 7b+
He strikes again. Ken Palmer Magic. Wonderful flowstone with a crux at the top tucked away in Terminal Zawn. After some shoulder slapping the sequence naturally takes you left at the top which makes the grade a bit of a giveaway, Ken may have quested on higher up and right. Climbed with a few friends I hadn’t seen in a long time.

Chrome Bum, BH, 6b+
A repeat but this is still the best section of rock on one of the best faces of rock I have ever climbed. 15m or so up stretching up for a flowstone side-pull, pure excitement.

Up Yer Bum, BH, 6b+
Easier partner to Manilow in the same style.

Top three Rugby matches:
All Blacks Vs Australia, Bledisloe 1
Fantastic match that went on 10 minutes after the whistle, loads of drama and stand out performances. Liquid Rugby.

Exeter Chiefs vs Racing 92, Heineken Cup Final
I love watching Racing 92 play but it was a real treat to watch the Chiefs grind them down and achieve the double.

Argentina vs All Blacks
Pure passion, lots of tears. Not as good a game as Japan vs South Africa RWC '15 but a similar passion.

Top three Spankings:
GBH, Malham, 8a+
Another year. Off the back of a successful Peak Lime summer, I started going back to Yorkshire with confidence. Started well, feeling stronger and really enjoying the movement again. Repeatedly falling in the same position, and a slightly different scene at Malham, started to kill my motivation and even with a change to more reliable beta I felt like I was carrying on for the wrong reasons finding excuses to climb on something else. I will approach it differently when I head up next time  (creep up on it from the side?)

The Frankenjura.
I was very lucky to get away for a short and very hot trip at the end of July, with a predictable spanking on anything I tried above 7b. Absolute fell in love with the place. My least successful trip since Buoux but I can’t wait to go back.

Bouldering
Realistically, I’m not going to achieve my local sport goals if I don’t raise my bouldering grade by at least two grades. I will dedicate more time to it this year. Anyone selling a fan and a ladder?

[andy popp]

Liking the love for Cheedale there.

[cheque]

I always love reading these. Thanks to everyone who puts the effort in to write them.

For me 2020 was a year so split between the absolutely terrible (my parents’ health and the obvious global situation) and the really pretty good (great home & work situation, great family news for some of my oldest mates, getting hitched myself a fortnight ago ) that the middling stuff like not being able to travel etc. paled into insignificance. Climbing was in fact squarely in the good category as I think I’m quite easily pleased, there are challenges everywhere for someone of my locale and current modest abilities and most importantly my oldest and most trusted climbing partner has been in a very similar situation to me so both available and very psyched to climb loads.

I only did one very specific type of climbing so just two Top Fives. It’s all straight punter shit so bear with me.

Top Peak Grit Trad routes

Legacy, Ashop Edge, Kinder In many ways this is the best crag on grit (in many ways it absolutely isn’t but on the right day those ways don’t matter at all) and this is one of its best routes. On our first time there my partner and I decided that on our next visit we’d be good enough to do this- little did we know that day would be almost 9 years into the future. Saw that giant bird very close up too.

Lyons Corner House, Millstone Myself and Slab Happy were on a mission to have a big day at Millstone this autumn but got thwarted every time- first time we did the classic escape-to-Lawrencefield-in-the-face-of-a-Baltic-gale (not before Slab had led one of the most windblown routes on the crag though), second time the whole place was soaking wet and the third the dodgy SMS reception in my flat led to Slab standing alone in the Surprise car park for hours.  Fourth time lucky I wasted no time in doing this straight off- it’s one of those amazing grit routes that has an obviously straightforward solution you can see from the ground that turns out to be nothing of the sort when you try to perform it. Absolutely exhilarating climbing and the rest of the days dreadful time-management left us loads to go back for this spring. 

Cioch Crack, Curbar I’ve chosen this more as a representative route of the crag than anything else- my mate lives near Matlock and early in the summer we discovered that the crag parking that’s equidistant from our homes is those bays near Trackside. Cue weekly (at least) afterwork visits ticking off gradually harder routes at all sorts of places along the edge that I hadn’t been to before, getting a lot better at climbing (the motto “if we can climb this grade at Curbar in the summer heat, we’ll be cruising at Stanage in the Autumn” proved true) and building a very strong relationship with a crag I’ve always loved but never previously felt at home at, creating great memories that I’ll always associate with this year.

Orpheus Wall, Birchen This was (and still is) the hardest trad route I’ve climbed since my accident and the only really technical thing I did all year. I’d seconded it six years ago but had to use different beta so as not to require sticking my weak/ inflexible leg in the break and it turned out that also meant I had to use a worse handhold too. Nothing like a bit of triumph over adversity! 

The Rainbow, Shining Clough This was the first rock climb I’d done for five and a half months. I didn’t feel like climbing in the first couple of weeks or so after the big lockdown but then suddenly regained the psyche, talked Reeve’s ears off all the way to the crag and had so much fun leading incredibly easy routes like this, flailing on second and taking pictures.

Top Spankings

Martini, Agden Rocher Putting this down as a spanking even though I got up it first go. I was psyched to prove to my partners how much steadier I’d become at leading but the disconcerting rock of the Rocher (in my defence you do have to climb an arête with a 2m square hollow block that you can see through on every side) turned me into the gibbering wreck they were probably expecting. 

Barney Rubble, Dovestone TorWhen you haven’t been able to boulder for years steep and/ or powerful climbing can feel very hard and intimidating and I had a real unexpected meltdown on this (and then seconding the E1 next to it), so bad that I can’t turn into something funny as much as I’d like to, particularly as I used to find much harder versions of this style of climbing easy peasy . This was back in June though and I didn’t freak out again all year so I’m putting it behind me.

Goliath’s Groove, Stanage Plantation I got pretty good at cracks of all sizes this year, even offwidths, which gave me the idea of finally getting on this classic which I’d “saved for the onsight” since I first started climbing. On a glorious but slightly midgey summer evening I gave it absolutely everything I had (including quite a lot of skin from my left ankle), which sadly was not quite enough to get to the top of the offwidth section- abbing for the gear confirmed I was one move away from easy street. Needs a rematch in 2021 with the offwidth footwork skills I’ve learnt since.

The Giant’s Staircase, Cratcliffe A family had oohed and aahed as I frolicked up the lower two thirds of this southern Peak weirdfest, their dad giving them a shit explanation of what I was doing the whole way. I have no shame in my climbing these days but the sound of them shuffling off as I repeatedly slithered out of the top mantel was not a highlight. 

Tower Crack, Burbage South This was a team spanking- my mate got his knee fully stuck in the starting offwidth crack twice (second time was like, “Boogie ‘til you Poop” stuck  ) and had to fully aid on huge cams to get it out. Unnerved, he then made a right meal of the upper layback flake and bailed. The whole time I was doing that thing where you’re sure that they’re making a fuss about nothing and itching to cruise it yourself- this felt justified as earlier I’d warmed up on another offwidth that he’d done a hilarious feet-level-with-hands layback trying to second. So I gladly took over on this one, got my own leg stuck in it twice and we had to ab for the gear. 

[GazM]

Ah, the best of .... thread. Always a good read - great to see what others have been up to and put a bit of context to the who's who of UKB. On the other hand, I always get a twinge of FOMO when I see how much everyone seems to get done and how relatively little I seem to manage!

Pandemic or not, for me 2020 was always going to be a quiet year based on local exploration because our 2nd child was born in late 2019, so trips away and even long days out were off the cards. Lone bouldering and development fits so much more conveniently into quick hits. Fortunately, the nearby forests and glens seem to be hiding enough new things to keep me busy. Despite years of hunting, I'm still labouring under the illusion that the perfect boulder with the perfect project is lurking out there and I guess that's what keeps me going.

Top 4 boulder problems
It was mainly a year of doing new things so I didn't repeat many established problems. Of the ones I did that I'd not done before the best were:
Booting Up, 6C+, Torridon - an unsung gem from Richie Betts at the Boot Flake area, up the glen from the main jumble.
True Forge, 7A, Rhue - a bit of a pebbly graunch.
Ninth Day, 6B+, Reiff in the Woods - highball. Great fun on my own after a look on a rope.
Touching From a Distance, 6C, Inchbae - shout out to other people putting in the effort to find and clean new things. Ian Abbot put in the hard work on this one so I just got to arrive and climb it. Lovely spot.

Top 3 new boulder problems/DWS
Reckoner, 7A,  Tarvie Wall - this one took quite a few trips to clean, work out the moves and then get in good enough condition to do. Good moves and quite committing up high.
Heartbeep Lefthand, 7A, Achilty Wall - last session of 2020. This was a surprise find late in the year on a wall that I'd written off before but then went back to with a different perspective. Not sure how I missed it the first time. Steep squeezy fun, which I'm absolutely shit at!
Under the Greenwood Tree, 7a (DWS), Conon Wall - again, I looked at an old wall with a different perspective and after giving it a scrub realised I'd missed the plum line of the crag. Really good climbing with the crux at the top, as it should be.

No trad (except one rather crap new thing that isn't worth mentioning) and no sport to mention.  Will try to remedy that in 2021.