[tomtom]

Was quite demoralised until I realised I had tape over my pinky split which was reducing friction a bit. Tried 24kg without tape and all OK but rather painful and no way split is going to heal doing that so sacked it off.

Try taping with a single layer overlapped at the nail with superglue smeared all over the sticky side. That way you get feel and no slippage. Shown a few doubters this and it’s always worked well for them. Recently showed one wad this technique (which I got years ago from John Welford) and he was able to pull on the crimps of Evolution with a split tip.

I've used this method and ended up with a split right along the line of the edge of where the (superglued on) finger tape was... The glued tape effectively made that bit of skin more rigid (and resistant) so the next point of failure was where non glued skin met glued skin/tape.

This second split was much deeper and wider than the original one.

I've avoided this method from now on and just use regular tape over a split - knowing its imperfect but at least it won't make it worse.

Its something I might still consider if I was that one go away from completing a big project, or on the second to last day of holiday etc.. but not for my own board/training :D

[shark]

I've used this method and ended up with a split right along the line of the edge of where the (superglued on) finger tape was... The glued tape effectively made that bit of skin more rigid (and resistant) so the next point of failure was where non glued skin met glued skin/tape.

This second split was much deeper and wider than the original one.

I've avoided this method from now on and just use regular tape over a split - knowing its imperfect but at least it won't make it worse.

Its something I might still consider if I was that one go away from completing a big project, or on the second to last day of holiday etc.. but not for my own board/training :D

Interesting. Yes I’ve mainly used it to save either my climbing day or someone else’s but not had it make the split worse in any way.

Presumably if the tape was wide enough to cover more than just the split itself that might prevent the issue you had.

[tomtom]

I've used this method and ended up with a split right along the line of the edge of where the (superglued on) finger tape was... The glued tape effectively made that bit of skin more rigid (and resistant) so the next point of failure was where non glued skin met glued skin/tape.

This second split was much deeper and wider than the original one.

I've avoided this method from now on and just use regular tape over a split - knowing its imperfect but at least it won't make it worse.

Its something I might still consider if I was that one go away from completing a big project, or on the second to last day of holiday etc.. but not for my own board/training :D

Interesting. Yes I’ve mainly used it to save either my climbing day or someone else’s but not had it make the split worse in any way.

Presumably if the tape was wide enough to cover more than just the split itself that might prevent the issue you had.

No - that’s the point - the tape (let’s say 8-10mm wide) was spanning the split. And it led to a new split at the edge of the tape.

[shark]

No - that’s the point - the tape (let’s say 8-10mm wide) was spanning the split. And it led to a new split at the edge of the tape.

That just sounds unlucky

[Nutty]

No - that’s the point - the tape (let’s say 8-10mm wide) was spanning the split. And it led to a new split at the edge of the tape.

That just sounds unlucky

I've had similar to what tomtom reports when taping even without superglue - the taping seems to cause the stress point to migrate to the edge of the tape and splits occur there. This has been when my skin hasn't been in great condition (hence the original split) and probably quite susceptible to splitting at the time.

[tomtom]

Not just me then - at the time my skin was in good nic...

BTW - back to the OP, heel balm - great for split healing.