[Bonjoy]

Another bunch of new ones. The usual caveats apply. They’re largely problems I’ve put up but there’s also a random handful of other folks’ ascents. The odd one or two are shown on Instagram.com/jonfullwood/ and I’ve got pics/vids of other if anyone has anything they’re particularly interested in seeing.

Bradley Tor
The Crust and The Crumb 6C+ – The roof right of Reborn Again (the nice prow in previous update).

Bradley Edge

This includes a major redevelopment of the House Boulder after clearing blocks out from under the Birdsong and north face. Have kept deliberately quiet about this for a while as knew it would probably end up fairly popular (it’s good), and wanted to enjoy it as a quiet/locals venue for a while before this happened. But the cat is pretty much out of the bag now and I’d rather accurate info is out there. I’ve not listed the link-ups, and probs done by other, but most are now on UKC logbooks.

* Winchcraft 7A+ - Central line from sitting on the north/downhill face of the House boulder, from sit start. Topout direct, rocking right into Hoist to Water is a bit easier but still probably 7A+.

* Loose Lips Sink Ships 7A – Full r-l lip trav of the same face, finishing up Possibly. The meat of the problem has been climbed in the way back when by Mike Adams, likely from a slightly higher start point due to the landing change.

A Hoist to Water 6C – Sit start 1.5m right of Winchcraft with rh in pocket. Top out direct. There may be easier non-eliminate beta, the grade is for going off the pocket to the lip.

<no name yet> 6B – Sit start right of Possibly. Climb to the lip, then move left and climb the arete on its rhs.

* Punch n Judy 7B+ - Direct sit start into the end of Pinch Punch. Climbed and named first from a slightly higher pull on pre-landing work) by Ben Meakin.

** Trill Seeker 8A – Low sitter to Birdsong, start matched on the shield feature. The right arete is not in at this grade (have no idea if it would help but might for the v tall)

* Goldrush 7C – Sit start matched on the shield as per Trill Seeker and climb directly leftwards into the end of Pinch Punch

Cheep Trill 7A+ - The easiest way up the Birdsong face from the big flatty. Exit right by gastoning the rh sidepull on BS. Rock out onto the slab.

Cheepsong 7C – Start as for Songbird (matched on left arete), exit as for Cheep Trill.

Dig For Victory 7B+ - Very low sitter to the right arete of the BS face, starting matched on the thin pinch of Trill Seeker. Finish up the arete (South Western Front).



Tony Crimps On 6A+ - Start as for Crimp Master Nasty then bust out left to exit via the shoulder. I also cleaned and re-climbed both versions of CMN. The direct is about right at 7B the RH variant is more like 7A.

Blackwell Dale – Black n Deckout Buttress

* Rattus Rattus 7B+ - Sit start 1m right  of BnD, climb straight up to high jugs.

Below Deck 7B – From the RR sit position make a big move over into BnD, finish up this.

Lawrencefield

Ant Hill Mantel invert start 6C – Very silly but actually the only viable way to sit start this problem i.e. invert and gain the ledge feet first.

Gardom’s

Pogles RH 7A – Pull on as for Pogles Wood sit start, then climb up into a finish on the right side of the arete.

* I Like Ya Cut G 7C (stand start 7B+) – The face between Shelf Isolation (see my previous update post) and the arete from a sit start. Undercuts and nano hoists.

<Drum Roll arete> 7a+ - The hanging arete left of Drum Roll from standing.

Crimps etc. Direct 7A+ - A more direct and easier version of Ned’s prob described in my previous update. Climb direct (heading for the hairline crack) with assistance from the right arete.

Long Shrift 7A – 50m left of 2020 Vision. Climb the quarried looking face with a blunt rib for your right hand.

Fearful Orange Direct 7A – A direct finish to the stand start. Nice long move, adds a bit of spice and just tips the problem into a grade 7.

* Ned & Shoulders 8A+ - The scooped bulge right of Fearful Orange. Long move off a palm to gain slopers. – Ned Feehally

Cratcliffe

Rouge SS 6B – Sit start to an overlooked gem on the left side of the Braindead block
 
Rough 6A+ - Left side of arete climbed by Smooth (left of Rouge), from a cramped sitter.

Lost/Little Arete LH start 6B – This is the biggish slabby arete 30m right of Braindead. Start on the left side of the slab, cross the slab rightwards to finish up the arete.

Persistent Vegetative State 6C – The right wall of the Braindead arete, starting on a big crescent hold next to the right arete. Tricky move to gain a thin flake.

La Petite Mort 6A+ - The next block right of Braindead. Small fridge hugging prob from a sit start.

Upon a Star 6C+ - The right arete of Hueco wall, starting in a wide horizontal break.

* Jiminy Cricket 7A+ - Behind the crag, 60m left of Hueco wall is a short north facing wall with a recessed bay. In the bay is a shapely roof block. Start in the break under the roof and climb out to an archetypal rounded mantel.

Not Cricket 6B – Just left of Jiminy Cricket. Climb the sidewall from sitting via slopers.

73 7A – On the P Crack block. Gain the finish of 72 from a sit start on the sharp fin under the roof.

Minted P 7B+ - Extension to (recently cleaned and re-patioed) P-Crack, starting up 73.

Pincher’s Arete 6A+ - left arete of Pincher’s Wall from sitting.

Wharncliffe

Dapples SS 7A+ - Sit start to Dapples of My Heart. Good, but oft wet.

* Amateur Phylactics 7B – From the Dapples sitter climb into and up the left side of the arete. 7A+ from standing.

Plongitude Inspector 6C – The right side of Platitude Inspector. Good one mover, even better name. FA – Dave Parry

[Stabbsy]

Gardom’s
Crimps etc. Direct 7A+ - A more direct and easier version of Ned’s prob described in my previous update. Climb direct (heading for the hairline crack) with assistance from the right arete.

Is this the steep face with a patioed landing that's at a similar level to I Like Ya Cut, but maybe 50m to the right? Spotted some cleaned crimps there and wondered what it was.

[Bonjoy]

No, it's a bit further on from there.
It's on the face to the right of the climber on this pic (behind a mossy block that I moved out from the landing), direct up to where the moss streak is (was).


The thing you spotted might be a new 6A+ I did on Oreade Buttress, detailed in the last update. Though that's only 20m or so to the right of ILYCG.

[Stabbsy]

Gardoms Edge

Shelf Isolation 6b – On the crag between Blacksmith’s and Oread buttress is a wall of overlaps. Climb this right of centre, from sitting, mantling a sloping shelf along the way.
<no name yet> 6c – Right of Heartland, climb the bulge from sitting.
* Shelfless Act 7a – Eliminate but good. As per Shelf Isolation but avoiding the shelf.
Classic Dom 5 – Left arete of the overlapped wall
China Sneezed 6b+ – Vert wall right of Shelf Isolation. Sit start on the right arete and go left then up to finish on the left via hanging flake/groove
<no name yet> 6a – Wall as far as the break between Nymph Arete and Oread

This update? Difficult to say for certain without being there, but I don't think it's the 6A in the above - I think I can see where that is from the picture in the definitive guide. I think we left pads by Oread and wandered over to check out ILYCG, passing it on the way so I'd guess down and left a touch. Didn't look 6A+, but it was getting dark and we didn't pull on.

[Doylo]

Ned & Shoulders is a genius name.

[Bonjoy]

Gardoms Edge

Shelf Isolation 6b – On the crag between Blacksmith’s and Oread buttress is a wall of overlaps. Climb this right of centre, from sitting, mantling a sloping shelf along the way.
<no name yet> 6c – Right of Heartland, climb the bulge from sitting.
* Shelfless Act 7a – Eliminate but good. As per Shelf Isolation but avoiding the shelf.
Classic Dom 5 – Left arete of the overlapped wall
China Sneezed 6b+ – Vert wall right of Shelf Isolation. Sit start on the right arete and go left then up to finish on the left via hanging flake/groove
<no name yet> 6a – Wall as far as the break between Nymph Arete and Oread

This update? Difficult to say for certain without being there, but I don't think it's the 6A in the above - I think I can see where that is from the picture in the definitive guide. I think we left pads by Oread and wandered over to check out ILYCG, passing it on the way so I'd guess down and left a touch. Didn't look 6A+, but it was getting dark and we didn't pull on.

Yeah, that's the one I meant. I did clean an overhanging arete about 50m right of ILYCG. Reckon about 6C from stand 7A from sit but didn't get round to finishing as I felt like I wanted a spotter for the topout.
A further 20m on from that is Drum Roll which I recleaned while doing the arete to its left.

[Ross Barker]

Gardoms Edge

Shelf Isolation 6b – On the crag between Blacksmith’s and Oread buttress is a wall of overlaps. Climb this right of centre, from sitting, mantling a sloping shelf along the way.
<no name yet> 6c – Right of Heartland, climb the bulge from sitting.
* Shelfless Act 7a – Eliminate but good. As per Shelf Isolation but avoiding the shelf.
Classic Dom 5 – Left arete of the overlapped wall
China Sneezed 6b+ – Vert wall right of Shelf Isolation. Sit start on the right arete and go left then up to finish on the left via hanging flake/groove
<no name yet> 6a – Wall as far as the break between Nymph Arete and Oread

Didn't look 6A+, but it was getting dark and we didn't pull on.

I think I've seen this thing you're on about, it's further north than Drum Roll, where the edge is very broken and cluttered. It's a roughly 4m tall slightly overhanging thing, it has a right arete but the left side sort of adjoins an adjacent boulder. The patio is built up around a single small tree. Looks absolutely nails, just a few rows of slopey crimps then not very much before the lip. Maybe it's somebody's secret project that they don't want anybody describing in detail?

[Stabbsy]

Yeah, that's the one I meant. I did clean an overhanging arete about 50m right of ILYCG. Reckon about 6C from stand 7A from sit but didn't get round to finishing as I felt like I wanted a spotter for the topout.
A further 20m on from that is Drum Roll which I recleaned while doing the arete to its left.

Thanks. That sounds about right - we walked past Drum Roll on the way out, so makes sense. Can definitely see why you'd want a spotter.

I think I've seen this thing you're on about, it's further north than Drum Roll, where the edge is very broken and cluttered. It's a roughly 4m tall slightly overhanging thing, it has a right arete but the left side sort of adjoins an adjacent boulder. The patio is built up around a single small tree. Looks absolutely nails, just a few rows of slopey crimps then not very much before the lip. Maybe it's somebody's secret project that they don't want anybody describing in detail?

This also sounds right, only marginally north of Drum Roll as Bonjoy says. Looked like you would climb the arete more than the crimps.

[Bonjoy]

Yeah, the intention is to climb the arete. You might be able to climb the face but it would be dynamic, hard, and unfriendly with the narrow landing.

[Ross Barker]

With arete does make more sense from a punter's perspective, though it does look like an ace line straight up the face for anyone with steely fingers. Could possibly use some rope around the tree and adjacent boulder to stop you from falling off the patio, too?