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[Peak][Curbar][Tideswell Dale][Turkey Dip Rocks] (Read 2986 times)

El Mocho

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A few things from as recent as today to as long ago as maybe around 2010...

Curbar

Bees in a Wood 7B+

On a block way below the crag almost into Bee wood. Follow the path across the field below the trackside path. Levels off going along wood. After c 300m?? there is a path which angles off down left to eventually join the road below the Checkers. About 150m along here is a boulder on the right above a bit of a bog (just after an easy boulder on the right)

Sit start. Stand start is about 7A+. If it ever got popular (ha ha) it might clean up and go down a grade.

Vid:



L'Horla buttress

Cognitive Dissonance E5 6c

Arete between Insanity and Committed. Start up the arete climbing au cheval for a few meters. Place a side runner in Insanity as high as you can reach (the Insanity crack is in reach for the start, I didn't use it but it makes no dif.) As soon as pos swing round onto the right side of the arete (crux) and then continue up. A poor solution to a nice line.

Tideswell Dale.

Jacobite Rising 8a/+

Bolted line to right of Culloden. Climbed this years ago but only just got around to bolting it. There are 2 10mm stubs (I used 12mm bolts) with no hangers on - the last bolt and 1 on the belay that were placed by someone else, I have 2 10mm hangers now so hopefully I'll go put these on some time. No idea if this was any good or not.

Turkey Dip Rocks

Turkey Coq 8a+

Climb back to the Future to where is joins The Land That Time Forgot, continue all the way right essentially dropping down and joining Onslaught finish along this. Silly.

Cold Turkey 8a+/b

Climb Onslaught (or Overkill) to the jug in the middle of the lip then go straight up the fridge hugging prow above. Quite fun. Did this a couple of years ago but only got around to bolting it this year

Fiend

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Yes that's all well and good, but what about the dogs' onesies!!  :wub:

Bonjoy

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Good stuff.
Was pondering the Insanity arete at Curbar the other day.

mark20

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Also spotted the Curbar arete the other day, then got home and saw this thread! Still, went back at weekend and climbed it with Pat. Some good moves. Can't really go wrong with the rock on that buttress.

How hard is Culloden and Jacobite Rising in terms of font grades? Thanks

Ru

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How hard is Culloden and Jacobite Rising in terms of font grades? Thanks

Culloden is about 7C.

haydn jones

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I went to do culloden last week but it was piss wet through :(

El Mocho

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A few things from as recent as today to as long ago as maybe around 2010...

Curbar

Bees in a Wood 7B+

On a block way below the crag almost into Bee wood. Follow the path across the field below the trackside path. Levels off going along wood. After c 300m?? there is a path which angles off down left to eventually join the road below the Checkers. About 150m along here is a boulder on the right above a bit of a bog (just after an easy boulder on the right)

Sit start. Stand start is about 7A+. If it ever got popular (ha ha) it might clean up and go down a grade.

Vid:




Did the more direct finish today. Where I get a left hand hold at 26sec in the vid above get it with your right instead and go straight up. It's maybe a grade harder for the stand start (although I didn't climb the original today for direct comparison) not sure if it was enough to bump the sit up a grade but it's more of a mantle which I know everyone loves.

Also another new (ish) one. Reclimbed Al's Broken Problem on The Gun Show block near Chatsworth edge (http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/162-gun-buttress/boulders/742-al-s-boulder/problems/3859-al-s-broken-problem#.X_B4FDRxdPY) but from the original sit start, finishing maybe slightly more directly as well. I thought it was pretty good.

Little vid here:



Ru

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That looks great Ben. Looks quite hard.

Fiend

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Nice canine cameos / spotting / photobombing. Cool looking problem too.

 

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