The ideal solution would be to have an 8 lane speed wall, of course this is logistically impossible - a time trial is the next best thing in my opinion.
I have to agree with Duma - your examples in boulder and lead don't address the core point... In boulder/lead, the second best on the day comes second.
If Igor fluffs it in bouldering or lead, Bob does not get rewarded any more than the rest of the field.
If Igor has a slip up in speed, Bob benefits, but only Bob. Because of the multiplication, Bob also gets a boost to his other scores. Igor’s slip has improved Bob’s bouldering and lead scores, but only Bob’s. Seems a little unfair.
Is the problem with comparing head to head speed with heats in a sprint not that speed climbing involves an element of risk which increases significantly as you try and give a better effort?Runners might have to expend more or less effort depending on who they're up against in a heat, and this might affect their recovery for the next round, but it's unlikely that they'll have to try hard and end up tripping over and getting eliminated. As speed climbers go faster they have to use sequences that might be riskier or they might catch a hold badly/miss a hold etc which will result in them being knocked out.
I'm pretty sure there us seeding for the spend round in combined finals? Based only on the pairings for the recent Euro Champs where I'm pretty sure the fastest four speed climbers in the final (based on combined qualis i think?) each faced one of the slowest four. Partly why Bosi's first round race against Sascha (4th & 5th fastest in qualis if i remember correctly) was so crucial.I still don't like the format though, i like the suggestion above of following a similar format to that used in track cycling - best of both worlds imo.
Quote from: GraemeA on November 30, 2020, 02:40:45 pmLudo is a speed specialist but pretty much fluked his way to winning the World Championships in Hachioji. How do you fluke your way to a World Championship?
Ludo is a speed specialist but pretty much fluked his way to winning the World Championships in Hachioji.
Quote from: bigironhorse on November 30, 2020, 04:11:54 pmThe only reason I can think of for the current format is that they think it makes it more entertaining.Isn’t the current format how speed comps have been run for years or have they changed it for the Olympics?
The only reason I can think of for the current format is that they think it makes it more entertaining.
Can anybody explain how the speed climbing pairing are determined?I assume they are seeded in some way. This must be based on a speed only seeding right?
If its so good, why don't we pair up the climbers for the bouldering and run it the same?Its not the speed climbing that I object to per say, its the fact that its assessed using a totally different methodology.
In defense of speed.It's a head to head event not a time trial.Like the FA cup. You draw the eventual winner in the 3rd round and lose when otherwise you would've made it through to the final. well tough luck.Sometimes the best don't make it and a plucky minnow does. That's what makes it so great.
the combined event is there because the IOC wouldnt allow climbing to have three separate events.