[gme]

Neither will or molly into the final.

Jernej on a different level to everyone else.

[abarro81]

Bosi said that they have to do the three individual events to qualify for the combined, so it must be top 20 through to combined qualies (or something like that)

[mde]

I believe that in every discipline (Speed, Boulder, Lead), they do a ranking with only climbers that compete in combined (i.e. did all 3 disciplines). These 3 ranks are then multiplied and the best 20 advance to the combined semis.

As per event there were only ~30-35 competitors so far and not all may compete in combined, advancing to the combined semis is not a very high hurdle I believe.

[Wil]

I believe that in every discipline (Speed, Boulder, Lead), they do a ranking with only climbers that compete in combined (i.e. did all 3 disciplines). These 3 ranks are then multiplied and the best 20 advance to the combined semis.

I think this is right as it's how it worked before. The only reference I can find in the IFSC rules is that combined events start with 20 athletes in a qualifying round, it doesn't specify how they are chosen.

[GraemeA]

I believe that in every discipline (Speed, Boulder, Lead), they do a ranking with only climbers that compete in combined (i.e. did all 3 disciplines). These 3 ranks are then multiplied and the best 20 advance to the combined semis.

Correct. So Will has an effective rank of 9 for speed as 5 of those ahead of him in speed aren't doing the Combined.

[Duma]

Does anyone have a link to who's already qualified? Was wondering which countries have filled their quota but still sent athletes? ie Stasa Gejo - Slovenia have filled their women's places haven't they?

[Duma]

Also anyone know what happended to Petra?? Great speed round and blank boulder?

[scragrock]

Think she got injured (not sure what) in the Boulder qualifiers. Might be bad, she was visibly upset by it. Poor soul.

[abarro81]

ie Stasa Gejo - Slovenia have filled their women's places haven't they?

Pretty sure she's Serbian (at least according to Google, and she doesn't compete in Slovenian colours)

[Duma]

Doh! Apologies for stupid question!
Is there anyone there who's already qualified then?

[bigironhorse]

Does anyone have a link to who's already qualified?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sport_climbing_at_the_2020_Summer_Olympics_%E2%80%93_Qualification

I think Iuliia Kaplina, Petra Klingler, Aleksandra Miroslaw are the only qualified climbers who are at the comp.

[GraemeA]

Does anyone have a link to who's already qualified?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sport_climbing_at_the_2020_Summer_Olympics_%E2%80%93_Qualification

I think Iuliia Kaplina, Petra Klingler, Aleksandra Miroslaw are the only qualified climbers who are at the comp.

And 2 of them got injured! Maybe everyone else who is already qualified made the right decision to stay away. Iuliia didn't do boulder so isn't in the Combined.

[Steve R]

Never imagined I'd be typing this a couple of years ago but was sorry to hear Boscoe's retired from ifsc commentating.  Back to the old routine of muted sound in the interests of maintaining steady blood pressure with Groom at the helm which is a shame as the wall mics are great and was enjoying the background europop too.

[lagerstarfish]

Bronze for Molly in the lead comp


https://www.bbc.com/sport/amp/olympics/55079558

[galpinos]

Both qualified for the combined (Will in 8th, Molly in 10th) so still in with a (slim) chance.

[Stabbsy]

Both qualified for the combined (Will in 8th, Molly in 10th) so still in with a (slim) chance.

If I were in their position, I'd recognise that I had a few days of competing before the "real" qualification actually starts. They need to complete all the 3 individual events to get into the combined qualification, but could probably do just enough to make sure they're on the start list. 3 rounds of bouldering, 4 (?) lead routes and a few runs up the speed wall will take it's toll - particularly the bouldering I'd have thought. Arriving at the combined qualifications without being totally battered would seem to be the best way to get the Olympic slot. Who knows if that's what they're doing (or if that's what others are doing), but I'm not sure the qualification position will be the best guide.

[Wil]

It will be interesting to see who has held back to maintain skin/better recover to improve their chance at the combined.

Molly looked solid in the lead. She was a little unlucky to drop it at the chains in the semis (not that it makes much difference). I thought it was a strange choice to make clipping the lower off reachy. It looked to me like a few sneaky fingers and thumbs keeping people on while they were clipping it, but I might be being unfair.

What was with the downward dyno in the bouldering? I didn't think that was allowed.

[sdm]

I'm surprised anyone is bothering at all once they have qualified for the combined.

If they aren't allowed to pull out, I would have expected to see a load of "footslips" by the second bolt.

They really go out of their way to come up with terrible formats.

[bigironhorse]

What was with the downward dyno in the bouldering? I didn't think that was allowed.

Yeah I thought that too. The commentator seemed to suggest that if its a downward dyno with a low risk of injury then its OK.

[teestub]

I'm surprised anyone is bothering at all once they have qualified for the combined.

Well there’s still the small matter of a European Champion title up for grabs, not a bad thing to be able to add to your palmares.

[Steve R]

Did notice Molly had quite a few tips taped up in the bouldering.  Presumably (hopefully!) preventative with a view to the lead and combined rather than fully necessary.  I'm no sports psych guru but I'd have thought gunnning all out  for victory in the single events and doing well would provide an edge well worth having compared to holding back once you know you've done enough.  The gained confidence, knowing you can beat most of the rest there would comfortably offset any slight increase in fagtigue?   That is, as long as you don't completely bugger your skin on those brand new raspy big fibreglass holds I've been wincing at people slapping around on, of course.

[tomtom]

Bronze for Molly in the lead comp


https://www.bbc.com/sport/amp/olympics/55079558

Well done Molly! 👏👏👏

I have to say I really enjoyed watching the leader finals... both Women and Men.

Men’s route was good and great suspense the whole way through...

[sdm]

The gained confidence, knowing you can beat most of the rest there would comfortably offset any slight increase in fagtigue?   That is, as long as you don't completely bugger your skin on those brand new raspy big fibreglass holds I've been wincing at people slapping around on, of course.

I think skin management and reduced fatigue would be far more important.

Especially as any boost in confidence would be reduced due to the expectation that others were holding back for the combined event.

This should have either been a combined only competition or they should have scheduled sufficient rest to allow people to give it their all for the individual and combined events.

[sdm]

I'm surprised anyone is bothering at all once they have qualified for the combined.

Well there’s still the small matter of a European Champion title up for grabs, not a bad thing to be able to add to your palmares.

True. But with all of the absentees, the title is devalued.

They might as well have renamed it The Olympic Qualification European Playoffs.

[Steve R]

or they should have scheduled sufficient rest to allow people to give it their all for the individual and combined events.

What's sufficient?  Genuine not sarcastic question.  They've got a full rest day today and only did/attempted two routes yesterday.  Based on my punter levels, I'd say that's about optimum to recover, muscularly speaking.  Skin would be more of an issue if it was thin, granted.