[teestub]

I guess they’ve considerably changed their tune since then as there’s 2 separate events for Paris I think (boulder lead combined plus speed)?

[Pope B]

I imagine that the IFSC were just trying to get their foot in the door. Concede one Olympics with a rubbish system, and hope that in subsequent ones that climbing has been proved popular enough to have different medals (with Climbing growing in popularity perhaps they were happy to give it a couple of medal for Paris before seeing how it performed in Tokyo?).

I'd have thought they decided to have the Speed segment run like this is because that is how it has been done historically, and when the events are run under separate medals in the future it will be run in this format.  Perhaps they are hesitant of introducing new viewers to a system and then having a different system in place in all other events/ future Olympics. Or maybe the Olympic committee refused to have the Speed format changed and demanded that Boulder & Lead be fit around it.

Whether this really justifies having a rubbish scoring system in place is another matter. 

[duncan]

Good interview with Jacky Godoffe on route setting including his thoughts on the speed route

You created the universal speed climbing competition route—can you tell us more about it?

The idea of the speed route was to make something absolutely different from the rest of climbing. The unique holds are designed to be grabbed in three different ways, and they are supposed to be a caricature of a bird flying. [laughs] I don’t know if it’s that obvious, but, yes. I set the route in a couple of days, and in total with the hold design, I would say, it was done in three months. I think for how fast it was, it was cool.

Do you think they should change the speed competition route every now and then?

Oh, yes. It was not my idea at the time to create a route that lasted for 15 years or longer. When I was on the IFSC commission I asked them, maybe three or four times, to change it after five years or so. But now that every gym or team in the world has bought all these holds, I think they were probably afraid if they change everything it could be a mess. In my opinion, it should be changed to be more connected to our world now, because it exists in the world of 15 years ago.

[Fiend]

Just caught up on the Combined Finals (and Combined Bouldering Qualies). Haven't read the thread. A few things stand out:

The climbing was generally great. A bit dynoey on M Boulder final but otherwise a lot of good entertaining climbing.

The whole Olympic pressure thing and people getting shuffled around as lead positions change was a bit grim to watch. It's an overly stressful aspect that I don't like as much as seeing people try really hard on really cool moves.

Speed being part of combined is still a massive pile of dick, including for the speed specialists.

#bringbackboscoe

[Ballsofcottonwool]

Having watched a couple of combined comps, I think that the format works but only when the three rounds are distinct, not speed-Boulder-speed. The lead routes in finals were far too easy but why, was the lead wall too small, not steep enough or just a route setting mistake? I appreciate it must be hard to set a route where speed specialists can safely make it to the third clip without decking out, perhaps stop worrying and pull over the crash pads from the bouldering to make the start of the route safe.

[bigironhorse]

the third clip without decking out

Someone did deck out in the mens semi IIRC!

[Fiend]

Catching up on some stuff...

Never imagined I'd be typing this a couple of years ago but was sorry to hear Boscoe's retired from ifsc commentating.  Back to the old routine of muted sound in the interests of maintaining steady blood pressure with Groom at the helm which is a shame as the wall mics are great and was enjoying the background europop too.

Quoted for truth. TBF, Boscoe was a bit annoying at first in a vaguely similarly banal sort of way, and got a LOT better over the course of a season (to the point that I genuinely liked his presentation and reliable one gem of a quip per round), maybe Matt G can do the same although he does seem to have more of a starting handicap on the banality stakes. Jernej (sp?) co-commentating later on was very good though.

What's the deal with the Stasa towel dab? Can't see how it makes any difference if you dab the mat or your towel?

I was wondering this too. I had presumed there was a "no dabbing anything on the mat rule" to prevent the chance of a carefully dropped chalk-bucket being used to help kill a swing. But maybe starting towels are an exception or there's some judges' discretion??

Big ups to Staša Gejo for the chalk up whilst catching combination dyno!

+1. That was the best bit so far.

That was class but I think the best bit I saw was in the bouldering qualies with Chloe hands-off tapping the top off of a knee bar rest on that fluoro orange / green problem. Barrows would be proud!!

And you can't have a '9' in the mix

That slipped beneath the radar a bit.

Anyone throwing shit about the Russians care to elaborate? And do you think the same about the Israelis?

I don't really see anything to worry about -
Home event, so larger, better rested, more motivated team.
Depleted field allows more lesser known competitors through.
Strong speed really helpful in combined, Russians unsurprisingly good at this.
Rubstov was no surprise surely.
Meshkova was excellent as a junior in 2018, made a couple of semis in her first senior year, and has continued to improve.

Good post. As much as the whole Olympic stress and watching Sascha / Stasa's reactions was a bit horrible, I'm glad Alexei got through, he's a beast and I respect his determination and grumpiness.

Groom on Alexei's tears of joy: "That's the most emotion he's shown all week"

Chez Fiend shouting at the monitor: "That's the most emotion he's shown since we've seen him compete!!"

Agree with other comments about the quality of the camera work, I thought the setting was pretty good if too dyno-heavy as usual. No further comment on speed "climbing".