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The Prince, Avon (Read 9117 times)

abarro81

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#25 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 22, 2021, 03:44:31 pm
If you want something in the same style and difficulty then check out Statement of Youth which is up the left end of the Sea Walls. Barrows gave me a spot on that back in the day when he was a punter.
That is a hard straight up crimpfest

Hi Guy! I'm still a punter, just own more kneepads than back in 2006 or whenever that was :) Probably worse at vert crimping than I was back then anyway!

Did the newer name for Statement ("Two gay dads" IIRC?) get ditched as being too at risk of causing offense?

P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you..  :wave:

Duma

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#26 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 22, 2021, 04:55:00 pm
If you want something in the same style and difficulty then check out Statement of Youth which is up the left end of the Sea Walls.
How about statement of youth? Saw Guy down at sea walls the other day and he said that was worth a look too.

I am definitely going senile...

Stu Littlefair

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#27 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 22, 2021, 10:04:41 pm
P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you..  :wave:

Itís the same Rich Smith, Alex. Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldnít have a burger?

And can someone post a picture or beta vid for Crystal Tips. Apparently Iíve done it but I have absolutely no memory of this. Itís making me feel senile and I hate it.


guypercival

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#28 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 23, 2021, 09:28:15 am
Alex Letís agree that you are an Łber-punter.
Adam originally thought of Two Gay Dads and Martin Crocker asked him if he could think of a different name before in went in the book. So I guess Martin thought it might be offensive

abarro81

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#29 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 23, 2021, 10:35:41 am
Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldnít have a burger?

The injustice of it all would be too much for the population of ukb to take...

Ally Smith

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#30 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 23, 2021, 11:04:37 am
And can someone post a picture or beta vid for Crystal Tips. Apparently I’ve done it but I have absolutely no memory of this. It’s making me feel senile and I hate it.

You've definitely done it: I was there.  You might even have done the first ascent? Can't remember if it was you or Rob Sutton who got up it first. 

No beta video but I recall a Gaston edge for left hand and rocking over rightward on to the ramp feature that is close to the start of connoisseurs choice.  The key was not to pull too hard on the sharp crystal edge/pocket. Just use it for balance and get a foot up on a horizontal band of texture before reaching up to a scoop and then the top.  Typical avon dirt vert; feels hideous and then you can lap it.

richsmithinbristol

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#31 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 23, 2021, 11:16:37 am
Donít take my only first ascent away from me Ali  ;D You are right though Rob Sutton was there as well as Stu. I will post some video or pictures if I can from recent ascent. Might even be there later today. I crank on the Crystal hole though to get out left. It starts of the hideous crimp to the right of the Gaston.


richsmithinbristol

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#32 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 23, 2021, 11:20:52 am
P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you..  :wave:

Itís the same Rich Smith, Alex. Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldnít have a burger?


Hi Alex! Long time no see. It is indeed BGS Rich. The burger story is not mine to tell Stu. Suffice to say that Alex was in training for climbing Equadorian volcanoes at the time with another teacher who was much meaner than me.

Ally Smith

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#33 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 23, 2021, 11:58:34 am
Donít take my only first ascent away from me Ali  ;D You are right though Rob Sutton was there as well as Stu.

My bad!  :sorry:

Senility all round it seems

richsmithinbristol

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#34 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 23, 2021, 12:06:56 pm
 :lol:  No worries. Glad you at least remember the problem unlike Stu.

Yossarian

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#35 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 23, 2021, 05:33:05 pm
P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you..  :wave:

Itís the same Rich Smith, Alex. Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldnít have a burger?


Hi Alex! Long time no see. It is indeed BGS Rich. The burger story is not mine to tell Stu. Suffice to say that Alex was in training for climbing Equadorian volcanoes at the time with another teacher who was much meaner than me.

You must also be the Rich Smith I went to Siurana with in the early 2000s, with Luke G and Roger W...

andy popp

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#36 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 23, 2021, 06:48:38 pm
No idea about any of these routes, but got to say I loved the Gorge with a passion - what a crag.

richsmithinbristol

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#37 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 23, 2021, 07:13:28 pm

You must also be the Rich Smith I went to Siurana with in the early 2000s, with Luke G and Roger W...

You definitely arenít senile then. That is quite some memory recall. I think that was the trip I worked out how to red point rather than sport climb like a trad climber. Luke had been on some coaching trip I think with Neil Gresham? and I got all the benefit despite not being there  ;D

Duma

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#38 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 25, 2021, 05:54:10 pm
Did this today. Heel instead of toe for rockover move meant could get first move more consistently. Clip is okish, but def adds something to the moves after! Anyway, really pleased to climb as much of the face as I could manage.

remus

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#39 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 25, 2021, 07:57:47 pm
Did this today. Heel instead of toe for rockover move meant could get first move more consistently. Clip is okish, but def adds something to the moves after! Anyway, really pleased to climb as much of the face as I could manage.

Good skills! Another avon classic in the bag.

andy popp

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#40 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 26, 2021, 08:52:48 am
Congrats Duma!

SA Chris

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#41 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 26, 2021, 09:12:16 am
Nice Duma.

Is this the one Vickers (or someone) named after Prince Naseem, because it's "short and hard"?

nik at work

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#42 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 26, 2021, 10:05:22 am
Nice one Duma  :2thumbsup:

Duma

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#43 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 26, 2021, 10:08:31 am
Cheers gents. Had a play afterwards at eliminating the arete completely, and think it may go, though pretty contrived. Will probably have another look as owe a belay or two anyway.

Chris, no idea, Ben may know?

SA Chris

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#44 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 26, 2021, 10:41:20 am
I seen to recall reading it in an OTE, for some reason it just stuck..

Ally Smith

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#45 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 26, 2021, 11:30:37 am
Is this the one Vickers (or someone) named after Prince Naseem, because it's "short and hard"?

That's my recollection too.

Nice work Duma  :2thumbsup:  :strongbench:

Fiend

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#46 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 26, 2021, 01:18:51 pm
Good skills! Another avon 7m high finger-nasty blinkered pico-eliminate in the bag  ;)

richsmithinbristol

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#47 Re: The Prince, Avon
January 27, 2021, 08:43:58 pm
Nice one Duma.  :punk:

 

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