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Japanese comp 31st October (Read 4104 times)


Fiend

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#1 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
October 28, 2020, 11:00:45 am
Thanks G <3

sherlock

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#2 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
October 28, 2020, 04:21:23 pm
Excellent, case of Punk IPA moved in from shed....
Cheers for the heads up.

lagerstarfish

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#3 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
October 28, 2020, 06:30:13 pm
case of Punk IPA moved in from shed....

Off topic, but have you tried Aldi's Anti Establishment ?
Their knock off version of Punk IPA
Good stuff

SA Chris

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#4 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
October 28, 2020, 10:35:20 pm
You mean this? Not sure it's a knockoff as such, was produced collectively?

https://metro.co.uk/2020/10/14/brewdog-and-aldi-team-up-to-launch-limited-edition-ald-ipa-13419567/

lagerstarfish

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#5 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
October 28, 2020, 11:08:58 pm
Ald IPA is also good. That's the one that was produced by BD.

Anti Establishment is the Aldi knock off that sparked the conversation.

Just drink them all. Lots of each.

sherlock

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#6 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
October 29, 2020, 08:59:58 am
No, not tried that,we usually get all our alcohol delivered so don't really look in the beer aisle when food shopping.I'll have a peek next time I'm there, cheers.

Fiend

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#7 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
October 31, 2020, 09:11:55 pm
Women's bouldering final was great - NICE, even  :) Some really cool climbs and heart in the mouth moments.

Psyched that there's a lot to this comp, will be catching up for a while.

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#8 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
November 02, 2020, 10:47:02 am
Men's bouldering final was interesting. Spoiler #1 - the problem balance was all over the place, which was a pity. Spoiler #2 - despite this the climbing was still pretty damn exciting, was definitely willing people on the whole way. Nice to see some familiar faces even in a slightly reduced field. Commentary was understandably basic, but endearing.

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#9 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
November 02, 2020, 12:52:42 pm
Watched the Women's last night, thought it was excellent.
Fiend, could you find an English commentary? Sure it said on the JMSCA site that it would be available but no luck.It didn't really spoil anything but all the same... :shrug:


Spoilers


And where was Miho, did I miss something,did she even compete?
Noguchi was fabulous as always.

Fiend

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#10 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
November 02, 2020, 01:40:10 pm
If you go to the Videos section of their Youtube channel, they have an {en} version of all of them, I think. Don't expect Boscoe's endless rambling b2b cutting edge insights from some ex-WC austrian legend, but if you're like me you'll not get bored of the lady announcing each climber  :)

Dunno about Miho, I missed seeing her in it. Ms Fiend says Miho's insta has been quiet recently. Akiyo was on fine warrior queen form tho. Love the dyno outwitting as usual.

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#11 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
November 02, 2020, 02:04:40 pm
Doesn't youtube do near real time subtitling now (and translations?)

Fiend

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#12 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
November 02, 2020, 02:21:03 pm
Translating is very hit and miss indeed, from experience watching a lot of foreign climbing videos. I don't think their algorithms are quite up to date with guppies, dynamic crossovers, and heel-toes.

sherlock

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#13 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
November 02, 2020, 03:04:36 pm

If you go to the Videos section of their Youtube channel, they have an {en} version of all of them, I think. Don't expect Boscoe's endless rambling b2b cutting edge insights from some ex-WC austrian legend, but if you're like me you'll not get bored of the lady announcing each climber  :)

Cheers, might give that a go while watching the Men's tonight

Dunno about Miho, I missed seeing her in it. Ms Fiend says Miho's insta has been quiet recently. Akiyo was on fine warrior queen form tho. Love the dyno outwitting as usual.

[/quote]Yup,so obvious when she does it,raised a big cheer from our couch.Well, the people say on it.

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#14 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
November 02, 2020, 09:47:08 pm
Cheers Fiend, watched the Men's tonight and thanks for the info re. english ommentary,worked really well!
Jeez, M3, how nails was that....

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#15 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
November 02, 2020, 09:55:40 pm
I thought M3 looked potentially really cool - maybe cos as a trad biffer I like the squirming - and had high hopes for some funky manouvres, but yeah pity there wasn't much progress on it. I was wondering about a body bridge between L arm and both feet out right, rolling over to the bonus....

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#16 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
November 05, 2020, 12:20:51 pm
Well what do you know, both Lead finals were great too. Shorter routes, lots of traversing, lots of bouldery bits, but not gimmicky. A good watch. Commentary was more in-depth than for bouldering too. Highlight was probably at the top of the Ladies, which got a laugh from us.

Apparently there is a European championship coming up at some point too??

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#17 Re: Japanese comp 31st October
November 05, 2020, 03:00:08 pm
Yeah, really excellent entertainment.
Spoilers









Akiyo had us both yelling "it's up there!" as she was looking for the last clip.
Think the European co
MP is in Moscow and both France & Austria have already said they won't be taking part.
Personally I'm expecting it to be cancelled, another victim of this shitty IFSC season.And yes I know it's trivial in the greater scheme of things.
I feel for climbers like Akiyo who has had a long and brilliant career but given her age might only have one shot at the Olympics.

 

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