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Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020 (Read 3043 times)

duncan

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Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 25, 2020, 05:30:26 pm
M - 5km shuffle.
T - Shoulder conditioning routine (IsYsTs, handstands, side planks).
W - 5km run.
T - Drove down to Weston. Met up with Sean at Brean. Warmed up on Brean Dream and The Kraken (which felt harder than they used to, have they lost holds or is it just me?). Got on Clashing Socks. Had a flash attempt at this a few years ago but tweaked my shoulder in the process. The lower wall felt much harder than before (more holds lost?). Worked out a good sequence for the headwall, avoiding the big span I’d tried previously. Gave it a try. Turns out the first wall is much easier if you use the blatantly loose hold. The headwall went more or less to plan with only a couple of snatchy moves and delaying the last clip til the crux was done. Get in!
F - Bristol for Mum’s hospital appointment, all good. 6km run on Weston sea front.
S - Considered an early morning Uphill Quarry hit but the rain was due to arrive at 11. Walked around the Toll Road scoping out the bouldering, some of it looks decent though may need multiple pads and spotters so not really optimal for my purposes. Repeated a couple of problems on Knightstone Island I did back in ~1981. Drove back to London through torrential rain.
S - Max. hangs; then 6 x 2 mins sets of repeaters at about 55% (AeroPower?). Forearms blasted.

Happy to have finished off Clashing Socks. It’s a good little route at one of my early stomping grounds. It’s also my first 7b for a couple of years and - by some reckoning - first in the UK. Brean grades are a bit soft but it’s steeper than my usual fare and it didn’t take much trying. The training seems to be working: I seem a bit more tweak resistant even if only marginally stronger.

Plan: get out if the weather allows, continue the fingerboarding.


« Last Edit: October 25, 2020, 05:38:48 pm by duncan »

tomtom

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#1 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 25, 2020, 07:07:12 pm
Nice one Duncan.

Mon: Rest

Tues: Got the grant submitted at 2pm. Then board day. Did better than last week with the new small footholds.. but still only managed 3 problems :D faded after 40 min. Went back and did some more in the evening.

Weds: Felt like shit. Knackered. Had another rest day...

Thurs: Felt better - Off to Burbage South to psyche Dolly up the Rib. Came frustratingly close several times - caught the top unexpectedly on first proper go - and decided not to hang on (its huge too). Came close a few more times, but no cigar. Felt like it was coming in and out of condition all morning. had to dash at 1 for various video conference calls and to pick up the lad from school. Its a long trip on a school day - 1:30 door to crag.. and same on the way back - doesn’t leave much time either side of school pickup.

Fri: 1 arm pull ups for the first time in 4 weeks (elbows rested now!). -18 taking off 2kg down to -10 then down to -8kg - on both arms. Matching left arm but new best for right. Felt ‘easy’ too (as in I did them with effort but without a struggle - but couldn’t repeat straight after...) Back to -10 for a few reps. excellent.

Sat: Board. Good session - only had an hour - and didnt want to stop... STILL can’t do any more than three problems, but homing in on getting stronger/right way to weight my feet to do the other ones...

Sun: Blackstone in the morning. only had the morning off - so picked somewhere fast drying. It was windy - and stuff wasn’t drying that fast. Pottered about - tried some hard stuff but there was quite a lot of green about. Bit of type 2 fun getting back as the wind had picked up and the Bouldering mat sail was in full effect. Despite being a bit of a meh climbing session it was great to get out.


shark

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#2 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 25, 2020, 07:24:56 pm
Well done Duncan

11.4-5 Average 159.0 (up 1.7lbs )

M. DIY

T. DIY

W. DIY

T. FB Recruitment hangs and speed pulls. Lovely autumn day. Perfect DIY conditions Headed out with Ewa aiming for Tor but swung by Crag X which surprisingly had dried back. Only hold that needed drying was the starting break of JR. Otherwise good connies. 3 attempts on JR getting close on the third falling turning the left heel to a toe. Got to work on Moff. Got through into JR after my 3rd or 4th attempt falling off going for the intermediate before the rail. Went down hill after that. Moved to the Tor with a view to doing Tin Of but was occupied when we got there. Went on the crux section of Bens and quickly linked the first 3 of the 4 moves. Then tried from the start and got through to trying the crux move on first attempt had another go and got to the move again but too busted to try it. Took dogs for a walk. Had a go at top roping Tin Of but was too tired.

F. DIY

S. DIY

S. FB warm up then Crag X with Ewa. Another lovely autumn day. Maybe a little glassy to start with. Three goes on JR. Nearly got it on the third attempt - just needed to do the flake match. Struggled to do the first few moves of Moff at first till discovered/rediscovered the best way to use the second hold then had two good burns failing getting heel on JR ledge. Too tired on third go. Drove to Tor. Rammed. Lot of familiar faces. Crappy parking on the bend. Didn’t even get out of the car. Turned around and went home.


Planning for a Kalymnos trip rekindled my motivation on weds. Surprised how well I did on Thursday after a 10 day break and putting on a few extra pounds. Perhaps all the Oak prep wasn’t entirely a waste of time and effort.
« Last Edit: October 28, 2020, 08:08:19 am by shark »

Will Hunt

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#3 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 25, 2020, 07:47:45 pm
W - Evening at the new wall in Bradford trying out the new problems. Massive space - promising stuff.

Su - Troller's with Harry. A couple of goes up Jim Grin warming up. I'd forgotten just how good it was. Had a go on Angel Heart and struggled with the slap out right and was a bit baffled by the moves above this getting heel up on the left. Second go I did from the floor to holding the RH slap crimp but, again, a bit stumped by the bit above it. I don't think I did all the moves.
Broke the big tooth that has formed there but a couple of folk on the Facebook group might be able to fix it on Wednesday.

Wood FT

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#4 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 25, 2020, 07:56:54 pm
Nice one Duncan!

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#5 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 25, 2020, 09:02:05 pm
Effort Duncan

M - Burbage North to try Sitting in Oxford and Strike LH both of which seemed nails last time I tried. SiO still is but at least I made it off the floor this time. 
Did manage all bar one move of Striker LH sit but that last move didn't feel likely at all. Worth another look at some point though. On the right day. When going well.
Moved to Remergence to try Hanging Rib One Sloper Eliminate. Coming up short. Probably worth a look while I'm there for Sloper LH though

T tired

W nowt

Th - Burbage South. Warmed up on Classic Arete which I'd done years ago and felt well soft then realised I hadn't started across right, which why.  Worked it out and had a frustrating time trying to link it all with no success. Went off to meet with tt & Dolly at The RIb. Held the penultimate hold and felt ok on it a couple of times but the last move didn't feel very feasible.
Managed to snatch a quick ascent of Pocket Wall LH to salvage the day.

F - tried to get out as soon as the kids had gone to school but realised how daft I was being and saw sense.  20 mins LI in garage later on

S nowt

S - late afternoon session with Dolly to Mother Cap quarry boulder then Over Owler. Not very successful but lovely weather to be out in



Coops_13

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#6 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 25, 2020, 09:14:15 pm
Nice work Duncan  :2thumbsup:

M: Shoulder mobility exercises. Push. 75 press-ups, shoulder press 40lb, lateral and front raise 20lb *3sets

T: Spot Denver. Wrist not feeling great and poorly puppy emergency meant only 30mins session

T: Drive to Joe's

F: Left Fork. Grim night's sleep led to an early start at The Angler V2, mega-classic. Forded the river (freezing) to get to Low Tide V6 which gave more fight than expected. Went to Wills of Fire V6 and fired that off after a few goes. Unfortunately gave myself some kind of lumbrical strain from the crux pull off pockets (LH). Psyche was low afterwards but pain subsided and definitely felt like a lumbrical strain, not a pulley. Rested a bit and then went to try Kill By Numbers V5. planned to just re-warm up on the moves and ended up getting to the last move on the first go, went next go.

S: Right Fork. Went to Mansize boulders where I failed to do a V2 as a warm-up. L side tendons painful so took some ibuprofen and that cleared everything up. Felt fine all day (no more pills) so think it was just some inflammation. Flashed Dyno Time V5. Went to Great White V6, an amazing shark fin-esque boulder. That went after some effort, got a cheer from the nearby campsite for my effort. Flashed Stand-up Comedian V5, another mega line (minor spotter dab near top :/). Moved on to No Substance V8, hard but so so good. V close to sticking the final crux move at the top, next time... Went to look at Maxipad V6 nearby, what an amazing boulder. Definitely a king line up a massive boulder. Psyched to send that quickly. Moved on to the Dairy Canyon zone, finally an area with some holiday grades :) Almost flashed Baldwin Bash V7 (accidentally ignored a crucial hold), sent it second go. Went and tried another V7 called Coasters which went quickly. Moved to another area and flashed a V6 called Scooby Snacks. Finished up by sending Cook the Patty V6 through a cramping bicep at the top to leave me with 48 V-points for the day :) Weather forecast closing in so cut our losses and drove back to Denver. So psyched to return

Trip video to come in Non-Quality Bouldering Vids... Wrist was good all trip, no pain. LH soreness seems mild and manageable

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#7 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 26, 2020, 07:16:44 am
W/C 19/10/2020

Well done Duncan. Good work.

M - Deadlifts, chest, abs, rehab, stretching
T - Buckstone, deadlifts for speed, triceps, rehab, core, run, stretching
W - Pudsey reds, deadlifts, back, abs, rehab, stretching, run
T - Shoulders, kettlebells, physio
F - Sheffield purples, paused deadlifts, biceps, rehab, stretch
S - Deadlifts, rehab
S - Rest


The start of a new week and back into lower weight more volume and back on the deadlifts trail.

M - Deadlifts are back on the agenda. 5x10 at 60 with maximum tension through the body. Good to be doing these again. Between sets I do a minute plank, which gets tough by the end.
Base exercises are for chest today. Start with flat bench for 5x10 reps at 60 with a minutes rest between sets, as would like to use German Volume Training for this exercise. That is a way off I think. Move on to 3x10 decline with 60, but this time with better rest. To complete the set I do 3x10 @60 for 15° inclined bench on the Smith machine. Move on to dumbbells back on the bench and do 3x8 with the 26s and finish lifting with inclined bench at 30° for 3x12 with the 18s. Feels like a good session as I transition into hypertrophy.
Based on deadlifts and the fact that nothing else is troubling me,  think hamstring recovery is complete. However, I will stick with doing rehab exercises to the end of the week, when I’m seeing the physio again. Do lots of stretching of hamstrings as well as rehab exercises.

T - Quick trip to Buckstone early on. Wander about on easy stuff, just enjoying the views. Do Precious Things Dyno before I leave. Good start to the day.
In the afternoon go to gym. Deadlifts for speed again which is 8x3 at 60%, followed by triceps work. Start with plate extensions and plate presses as a superset for 3x12 each. Move on to a superset of skull crushers and French presses for 3x8. On to a superset of 4x6 with close grip bench press and single arm Tate presses, which feels tough. Finish triceps with V-grip standing presses and leaning tricep extensions for 3x8 each.
Rehab for hamstring as usual and 3x2 minute planks for core today.
I manage one whole kilometre at a steady run with no pain or discomfort.........other than that that you just get from running. Stretch out afterwards. Very chuffed.

W - Morning at Pudsey Depot. Work my way through the reds, managing to flash all but three, which surprisingly are the more technical ones that I can’t muscle into submission. Also do a couple of purples that I haven’t done before and start work on some of the yellows. Circuits at the end, but fingers feel pretty tired as I leave.
Gym on the way home. Deadlifts for weight with ten singles at 90% of 1RM. Take a conservative view of what that is and base it on 140 which is best post injury. Move on to Wide Grip Pull-ups for 3x16. Next is Machine Pull Downs with lock at bottom of the motion for 3x8 with both arms and then with single arms. 3x8 Lat pull downs on the cable machine, followed by V-grip pull downs for 2x12.
Palloff presses and wood cutters for abs today, followed by rehab exercises and stretching.

T - Miserable drizzly day. Potter around at home all morning and hit the gym for shoulders in the afternoon. Start with 3x12 reps on the machine shoulder press. Then drop the weight and do 3x8 half and halves, which get a serious pump going as muscle is under tension for quite so long. Barbell shoulder presses for 3x8, straight into dumbbell seated presses for 3x10. A giant set of lateral raises, alternating front raises and reverse flys each for 3 sets of 8. Finish working shoulders with giant set of prone rows, standing rows and reverse grip bar front raises, each for 2x8 and 3x5 scapular raises. Definitely worked each part of the shoulder complex.
Do Kettlebell swings for core and deadlifts, but do 10x20 reps, as from the last time I was doing this, 20x20 just seemed excessive (and tedious).
Physio after the gym, pretty much recovered, apart from some very minor weakness in a wide position. Got a new set of exercises, but don’t need to go back, so all is good.

F - Trip to Sheffield Depot. Have a decent go at the purples, doing maybe a dozen or so, which is pleasing. Once tired I move on to the reds for a bit doing some of the new ones on the comp wall.
Deadlifts are paused reps today which are always a grind. Six sets of 5 at 100k. For a change do some Roman Chair for lower back and core.
Working biceps in gym. Start with 3x12 Ez preacher curls, which at this number of reps do bother the torn bicep a bit and I have to massage it back into shape. Getting old may be rubbish, beats the alternative. On to cable bilateral curls for 3x8 and standing crossover curls for 3x10. Incline alternating curls, hammer curls and Zottman curls all for 3x10 complete the workout. Lots of reps but not very heavy seems to be the way to go.
Finish in the gym with hamstring exercises and leg stretching.

S - Big weight and volume day for deadlifts. At 120 I pull a rep every 30 seconds for 10 minutes which just becomes a battle of attrition. If anything was going to trouble my hamstring this would be it.
Go through hamstring exercises afterwards which are all going well.

S -Rest

JohnM

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#8 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 26, 2020, 03:12:34 pm
Weight 10st7lbs

M - Trail run. 11km 512m height gain. PB on my local circuit. Finally back up to speed after my 100km.

T - MTBing. 16km 576m height gain.

W - Shoulder recruitment and core. Assisted 1 armers with sling and pulley.

T - NG endurance session. Used 10kg assistance and the big hold on Lattice rung as my index finger tendon is still sore. 8km jog and some speed work.

F - Drove to Tuscany.

S - Bad sciatica. Walked to check out a crag but it was soaking wet.

S - Crippling sciatica and in agony. Still tried to walk a bit and checked out a couple of crags. One had a very impressive wall, a bit Ceuse-esque with a 9a+ and 9a from Ondra. The other also looked good but was deep in the forest and seemed a bit overgrown and abandoned.

My girlfriend's company pressured all the staff to take some of next years leave this year while production is lower which seems like a legal grey area. Anyway, we decided to spend a week in Tuscany and check out the climbing, food and wine. Unfortunately the trip hasn't started well and it has been pissing it down nearly every day, I have had bad sciatica and now all restaurants are closed in the evenings! Hopefully, my sciatica will keep getting better and I will get some climbing in tomorrow. There are some seriously impressive crags here. Unfortunately a lot of the initial development has involved drilling pockets on everything so a lot is manufactured. Found an amazing single tufa line today so will hopefully get on that tomorrow!

Nibile

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#9 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 26, 2020, 03:51:53 pm
F - Drove to Tuscany.
What?
And I have to know it on PC?
Come to Siena, I'll have you try my board circuit!!! It needs dusting off the cobwebs!!! And it's always dry.

Nibile

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#10 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 26, 2020, 07:11:24 pm
Power Club

Mon - boxing bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers garage session, strong at - 6 LH and - 4 RH (2kg added, 68/69 BW). Bar work, snatch deadlift, pulls.
Thu - TB DL 80 kg x5, farmer's 30", 30" rest, loaded carry 38 kg 1', 30" rest x10. Phew.
Fri - rest.
Sat - amazing session outside with lorry wheel.
Sun - weights.

Very happy about the fingers.

Sasquatch

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#11 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 26, 2020, 11:04:10 pm
I'm gonna try again. Maybe it'll stick....

M-AM FB 1-arm on 30mm, and b3 10mm, 3 hr hike
T-Short BW workout at home w Wife
W-AM FB 1-arm on 30mm, and b3 10mm, light bouldering
T-run 4miles
F-AM AM FB 1-arm on 30mm, and b3 10mm, Then outside session at newly developed boulder.  v0,v2,v2,v4,v5,v3,v8 and worked the hell out of two projects.  Sen one, then immediately broke a foot  :slap:  Couldn't do it after the foot break, so now it's still a proj.   Came close on the other, but no dice. Then went and repeated a 7c 2nd go.  Then went to the gym for some volume/movement.  v5,v5,v6,v6,v7,v7,v7,v7,v7,v8. 
S-Rest - Wrecked from Friday
S-Rest - Still a bit tired from friday.

tomtom

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#12 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 27, 2020, 07:57:58 am
Still pulling hard Sasq 👍👍

Sasquatch

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#13 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
October 27, 2020, 04:33:05 pm
Still pulling hard Sasq 👍👍
Thanks,  My goal for next year is to put some serious effort into four projects up here that all are far beyond current ability... I figure it's time to level up and get back to some serious training if i'm gonna do that.  Hopefully I can finally manage a 1-armer as well :)  They're next level lines that I've written off as impossible for years.

JohnM

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#14 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
November 03, 2020, 03:34:34 pm
F - Drove to Tuscany.
What?
And I have to know it on PC?
Come to Siena, I'll have you try my board circuit!!! It needs dusting off the cobwebs!!! And it's always dry.

Only just seen this Lore! Would have been good to catch-up. It has been many years! We didn't make it as far down as Siena and stayed in Camaiore. Back in Innsbruck now.

Nibile

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#15 Re: Power Club 554 19th - 25th Oct 2020
November 03, 2020, 07:29:35 pm
F - Drove to Tuscany.
What?
And I have to know it on PC?
Come to Siena, I'll have you try my board circuit!!! It needs dusting off the cobwebs!!! And it's always dry.

Only just seen this Lore! Would have been good to catch-up. It has been many years! We didn't make it as far down as Siena and stayed in Camaiore. Back in Innsbruck now.
I still haven't climbed the circuit, so you have another chance.
 ;D

 

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