[tomtom]

Power Club 555. Shite weather....

M: rest

Tu: Board. Finally, did four problems since resetting footholds. Good session.

We: Assisted 1 arm pull ups. New PB - 5kg assist both sides (previous 8kg). Just felt really strong. Didnt go any further as I felt tired (reps going to down to that weight) rather than not strong enough.. Rather than drop the assist weight below 10kg on the pulley - I start sticking KG weights in my pockets after -10kg - somehow feels more balanced/less of a change as the weight comes off.

Th: Board. Long childcare day - wife ended up working late - a fragmented board session - three small periods of 20-30 min. Did alright in the end but took ages to get going..

Fri: Dried up a little in the afternoon so went up to the Wiltons. Tried and failed on Purple feel SS, Robins, Starship Direct and Abusey SS. Left in the dark at 5... made some progress on all of those despite moving badly. It was just great to be out touching rock.

Sa: Felt really tired all day - and a day waiting to see what the announcement was all about. Anyway, managed to do a few assisted one armers before being forced to watch Strictly. Got down to -7 on both, which was pretty good given I felt fairly spent...

Sun: Weather = Wank. Went to B&Q at 10:30 and the car park was nearly full. Turned around and went home. Stared out of the window repeatedly, then gave up waiting for a lengthy enough spell for it all to dry out (didnt fancy a drive across for a punt on peak crags). Board. OK session. Better than thurs - worse than tues.

Interesting looking back in my diary - and changing the footholds on my board has put me back to what I could do 5 months ago! So I guess thats the desired effect!!

Looking forward to some better weather from Weds onwards....

[nai]

Half term....

M zip
T board power. First time I've trie dhard in there for a while
W Copied Tom's one armers routine, only managed -6kg on left but was happy with -4 on right and could even equal that on the outside slot of BM.
Th - meant ot rest but board volume/.technique.
F legs and core. First for a while, hurty
S - board, working out new "All holds" problems. Bit of shoulders but managed to snap two therabands
S - had nothing planned but a coinciding weather and time window looked like it'd allow a quick hit. Went to Gardoms but heavy blattery showers kept rolling threw. Had a quick look at Neil's as it was dry under the roof.  Liking those crimpers
Leg and hip mobility eve
 

[shark]

11.4-5 Average 159.0 (up 0.1lb )

M. AM FB Ergo Edge hangs up to 25secs then recruitment pulls and speed pulls.
PM Systems board. Various stuff then visit to vet and an hour of leaf shifting then AeroCap 3 sets of 20/10’s

T.

W. AM DIY - almost finished! PM Tor. Warm up. Had several goes on crux of Bens without. Enough power and strength but accuracy lacking. Bit too crowded in there too for comfort. Draws in Tin Of. Led it clean 3x and then a 4th with falls by head torch which was novel

T.

F.M FB warm up then Crag X with Ewa. Utterly fucked. Drove to Tor. Was rammed. Nowhere to park. Seemed greasy. Drove on. In a final act of desperation checked in at Electric quarry. Wet. Went home.
PM Foundry with Ewa. Tied on! Had my arse handed to me. Got pumped on 6’s and failed to redpoint 7a.

S.

S. AM FB warm up then recruitment and speed pulls
PM Systems board. Warm up. 3x gastons sequence. 3 attempts Oak ancap circuit, first decent, second and third didn’t get through first moves. 2x 20/10’s aerocap. Got part way through a 3rd set but lost where I was and gave up

Kalymnos trip on the 11th now kiboshed by covid. Shifting emphasis of climbing/training towards endurance hopefully retaining hard won strength gains.

[spidermonkey09]

A couple of weeks from me.

M - rest.
T - max hangs. Bit tired from weekends exertions at Malham. 4 out of 5 sets at 4kg assist with good form, but last one a shambles.
W - wall. Good session, felt like I was climbing well and had got my 'snap' back.

Week off work so psyched to climb as much as possible. Didn't quite pan out that way.

M - max hangs. Really good session, did full set at 4kg assist easily. Time to move down to 3kg. Managed bodyweight hang on 3FD LH for 7 seconds, RH 5 seconds, which is probably a PB. Gave the Bring Sally Up pushup challenge a go to finish and completed it to my surprise.

T - Raven Tor. Finally I visit the sacred ground, mostly because nowhere else was dry. Got on Body Machine which was good. Got through start last go but binned it going up to final bulge. Wouldn't have done it anyway as top was wet. Struggled with cold hands all day. Had a end of day flash go on Sardine which was a total shambles.

W - Malham. Went to do some bolting work with Ted. Freezing cold and quite unpleasant on the catwalk. Clipsticking and drilling on Baboo like having a cold shower in the runoff and seepage. A satisfying days work.

T - rest.

F - attempted to go out on the grit as forecast looked dry. Got to Burbage but was raining and heavily clagged in. Cursed but went to check out eatswoods on the premise it would be dry. Found the crag ok but it was piss wet through  After getting back in the car I went to Cratcliffe as it looked to be clearing over there but was raining at the parking so carried on home. As I went through Wirksworth the sun was out so I reluctantly went to Black Rocks to see if there was anything good dry. Spent a few hours failing on a shit 7A which I didn't do, before heading home. One of the worst sessions I've had in memory!

S - Filthy weather. Max hangs. First session at 3kg assist. 3 sets of between 5-7 seconds, not bad for first attempt.

S - Deliberated about going out but forecast looked iffy and I was still jaded from Friday's failed exertions so didn't bother. Went to wall instead, probably for last time before The Lockdown 2: This Time Its Raining. Few problems on board, bit of campusing, some problems. Fun session. Later saw Peak was dry and I probably would have got a few hours in. Forecasting that area of the country is a fucking shambles.

Overall one of my shitter allocations of annual leave; only climbed outside once and even that was grim. Nothing to be done but still distinctly vexing. Typically this week looks mint. Considering whether to go back onto lockdown v1 schedule of 2 on 1 off training pattern with weekend grit days where I can.

[shark]

Cursed but went to check out eatswoods on the premise it would
be dry. Found the crag ok but it was piss wet through 

Sorry to hear that. You were unlucky. It wouldn’t have been seepage or run off but condensation. Reckon most places were condensed that day

[nai]

I reluctantly went to Black Rocks to see if there was anything good dry. Spent a few hours failing on a shit 7A which I didn't do

Hat Trick?

Peak was sub optimal yesterday, lots of brief showers coming through that were too small for radar to pick up.  Think it could  have been another frustrating day for you.

[gollum]

W/C 26/10/2020

M- Depot, chest, abs, rehab
T - Triceps, abs, speed deadlifts, rehab
W - Big Depot, rehab, stretching, back, core
T - Biceps, kettlebell swings, rehab, core, party tricks
F - Paused deadlifts, rehab, stretching, Depot Blacks, shoulders, core
S - Deadlifts for weight and volume
S - Rest

M - Go to Depot in the morning. Have taken all the low hanging fruit available so get on the yellows and the purples I’ve not done yet. Don’t actually get up any problems that I’ve not done before, but do make some progress on some, which, I suppose, is better than nothing. Keep on trying. Finish off on the circuit board and starting to link the medium difficulty circuits.
Weights is chest today. Try to do the German Volume Training on the bench press with 60k, get to six sets okay and then it becomes a battle, but do get to the end, which surprises me, as last week, thought this was a way off. Move onto decline bench for 4 sets of 8, starting at 60 and adding 5 each set, so finish at 75. Incline presses at 15° for 4x6 at 60. Throw in my deadlifts for maximum tension at this point for 10x5 with a minute plank between each set. Then go through my hamstring exercises. Back to chest exercises and machine presses for 4x8. On to 30° in the Smith Machine for 3x8 paused reps, which feel tough, particularly as I tuck my elbows to minimise the weight on my shoulders. Do cable flys at high, mid and low levels as a giant set with 3x8 for each to finish.

T - Tricep work today. Start with GVT doing dips, but when I get to end, think I may need to add weight as bodyweight doesn’t seem sufficiently taxing, since there never seems a doubt I will finish all the sets. In the minute between each set, I do a range of floor based abs exercises; planks, side planks, hollow backs, leg kicks and leg raises. Move on to close grip presses at 50k again working to a GVT routine, which is much more like it and needs the level of fight I’d expect. 5x8 strict skull crushers increasing the weight so I can benchmark at what weight I can no longer maintain form. At 22.5 recognise that’s my limit for 8 good reps. Standing French Press for 3x10, pausing at deepest lock on each rep. Next up is a superset of overhead plate extensions and plate press for 3x12 each. On to cables and 3x8 superset of V-grip presses and overhead extensions.
Finish weights with 8x3 deadlifts for speed at 85k. Speed reps are better than last time I was working deadlifts. In rest periods I do my hamstring exercises to start and then some stretching.

W - Wet early on and rain forecast in afternoon, so we decide to visit the Big Depot, first time in a while. Get up most of the purples, all but one of the reds, same for the woods and all the blacks. Good session and a pleasant change, although might just have got a couple of hours outside, if we’d been a bit less risk averse.
Hamstring rehab and stretching at home later on.
Gym in the evening for a change. Deadlifts are singles. Start at 126 work up to 150 and then back down to 130. Feeling okay with this at the moment.  On to wide grip pull ups for my GVT today which again goes well to set 6 and then becomes much more of a battle, but was never going to not get it done. Move on to machine pull downs with 3x8 with both arms and then 3x8 with lock on single arms. Finish back training with some kettlebell rows and then do some core and abs floor work.

T - Biceps in the gym. GVT on Ez preacher curls. Each set is tough by the end but sets don’t particularly get progressively harder. Smaller muscles tire in the set quicker, but also recover infra sets quicker, so it would seem. 21s next for 3 sets, which definitely gets the burn going. Move on to alternating incline curls for 3x10 on each arm. Next is seated curls for 4x12 with a light weight but pausing at bottom of each rep under tension. Follow this with 3x10 drag curls. Hammer curls with one arm and other holding weight isometrically at 90° for 4 sets of 10 each. Zottman curls for three sets with decreasing weight and increasing reps. 3x10 bicep cable crossovers. Then do 3 sets of laid down cable curls but this time decreasing reps and increasing weight each time. As W finisher do standing alternating with a light weight to failure.......and breath.
Today’s deadlift regime exercise is kettlebell swings which works both core and posterior chain, which in turn us good for hamstrings, so kills so many birds with a single (or rather a couple of hundred) stone(s). Still do some hamstring and stretching. Finish session practicing elbow plan he’s (badly), which I haven’t done in many years but saw someone doing in gym yesterday and thought that’s a thing I’d like to do again. Rubbish attempt but far from completely useless, as was reasonably stable in a straddle.

F - Forecast was good, weather is rubbish. Deadlifts first thing; paused reps for 6x5 at 105k. Hate these. Gives me a chance to do some stretching and hamstring stuff between sets though. Play at elbow planche again, as plan to throw in odd callisthenics type stuff for variety and fun.
Telephone call with physio and am now signed off, which is pleasing, although neither of us doubt I won’t break another bit of me in the relatively near future.
Depot to do the blacks up and down, which provides a lot of volume. Make progress on a couple of yellows, a couple of purples and get another one done. Friend does really well on blacks as well, which is pleasing. Good social session.
Gym in the evening with Mrs B. Start with dumbbell shoulder presses for GVT. Feels too light at first, but by the end feels bleeding heavy. Move on to machine presses for 3x12 and 3x8 half and halves on machine. Work on 3x12 clean and press which helps power due to speed of movement involved. Tough pressing session. Do 10x10 L raises for core and to rest shoulders a bit. Next do a giant set of lateral raises for 3x12, alternating front raises for 3x10 and prone front rows for 3x12, all with plates as the additional leverage ups the ante. Finish off with scapular exercises.

S - Deadlift weight and volume day. 120k every 30 seconds for ten minutes. Good battle. Aided by listening to loud Led Zep and the Stones, hindered by the aircon not working in the gym. A brief session but seems to work pretty much everything.

S - Rest.

A pretty good week, although the weather was against me. Looks like I’m going to have to rethink training g from next week onwards, just as things were starting to come together. Hey Ho!!!! Let’s Go!!!!!! as The Ramones said.

[Will Hunt]

Th - board. Set a couple of problems and accidentally did one of them.

Sa - bit of a frantic day trapped in a car sales place. After dinner got warmed up on the board finishing off the second project from Thursday night. Then out with the lamps to Baildon with Ben. I know that I have held the pinch/crimp on Pinch 32 in the past but didn't feel like I could hold it this session - nor make much use of the rubbish arete bit. Not sure if it was connies or crapness. Set about trying to dodge the crux and found that I could make the distance between the better holds without having to use the terrors in between. It took a few goes to stick the move and was a bit of a race against time with skin vanishing rapidly from the RH start hold but got it done. A great, unexpected tick that felt around 7B+ with the beta I used.
We decamped to Eldwick and we both did Racing Raymond but missed last orders at the pub so weren't able to sit outside a drink beer in the howling wind.

Su - a fairly physical day out in chilly conditions with family. Feeling quite battered today!

[spidermonkey09]

Hat Trick?

Peak was sub optimal yesterday, lots of brief showers coming through that were too small for radar to pick up.  Think it could  have been another frustrating day for you.

Thats the one; dire. Maybe good I didn't risk it then! Sat at my desk looking at blue skies now...

Yeah definitely condensed at eatswood. There was barely a dry hold on it. Quite enjoyed the subterfuge of getting in and out though. Traverse looks great, might have a look at that in the next few weeks.

[tomtom]

The Lockdown 2: This Time Its Raining.

Excellent strap line. I'd get it printed for a T shirt - except no-one would ever see me wearing it :D

[nai]

Thats the one; dire. Maybe good I didn't risk it then! Sat at my desk looking at blue skies now...

SHowers still blowing through, it's not great out still.  East Lime might be ok I spose

From about 3:06.

[duncan]

Hey Ho!!!! Let’s Go!!!!!! as The Ramones said.

A motto for life: acceptance and commitment.


M - S: one fingerboard session, two 6-7km runs, five shoulder strength sessions, brisk walking every day.

Elbow a bit sore, weather rubbish, the lad on his half-term, so took an easier week.

On the 31st I reached two milestones: doing some kind of exercise every day for the last 365 (30 mins brisk walk counts) and hit the 10000 steps per day average for the year. Rather obsessive but it’s been fairly critical to keeping afloat.

Hope to get out once more before Thursday.

[spidermonkey09]

Thats the one; dire. Maybe good I didn't risk it then! Sat at my desk looking at blue skies now...

SHowers still blowing through, it's not great out still.  East Lime might be ok I spose

From about 3:06.

Cheers, thats almost exactly what I was trying, was getting my right hand up high (3.19) every time but couldnt drop my left hand into the hold below it and move feet across.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - fingers system pinch with BM back2 middle slot in between. Strong, very very happy. Rings 30" finisher. Clean and press 30" finisher (31 kg x4x10).
Tue - rest.
Wed - TB DL 80 kg x5, pull ups x5, 1' rest, 1' overhead carry 36 kg, 1' rest x10.
Thu - very short on time, 10' of farmer's.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights.
Sun - boxing bag, shoulder, kettlebell.

[nai]

Cheers, thats almost exactly what I was trying, was getting my right hand up high (3.19) every time but couldnt drop my left hand into the hold below it and move feet across.

From memory it was that RF toe scum that made the difference, was doing more trhan it looks like it might be. 

Not that you'll be rushing back to try again

[Sasquatch]

M-FB in AM 30mm 1-arm and 10mm b3, Moonboard in evening 18 BM up to 7B+
T-run 3miles, BW workout
W-FB in AM 30mm 1-arm and 10mm b3, roped session in evening WU, then 7c os, 8a attempts x3(close but no cigar no endurance at all atm, just sprinting up the wall.  I haven't done anything longer than 10 moves since september 4)
T-Cycle 30min
F-FB in AM 30mm 1-arm and 10mm b3, Core
S-Snow Bike 3hrs
S-Moonboard 22 benchmarks up to 7C(3 of each up to 7B+ and 1 7C)

Deload week coming up.  Reassess and then start next cycle. 

[tomtom]

Oof 22 benchmarks on the moonboard sounds like a big session!

How are the elbows holding out with three one arm training sessions a week?

[Sasquatch]

Oof 22 benchmarks on the moonboard sounds like a big session!

How are the elbows holding out with three one arm training sessions a week?

Pretty good.  I got a slight twinge in the left elbow in week 3, but I think the two days off every weekend has really helped. 

Thanks, 22 was indeed a pretty big session. It was over 3 hours total, though so loads of resting. 

[JohnM]

M - Hiking around the hills in Tuscany looking at crags. My sciatica had eased a bit but it had become apparent that I was really allergic to something in the house we were staying in. Awake most of the night sneezing with an itchy throat and eyes. Sneezing with sciatica really hurts!

T - Repeat of the night before and awake most of the night. First climbing day at Candalla Bassa. Warmed up on a 6c. The first developers really went to town in this region with the drill. Nearly every hold was a manufactured thread pocket. Went to check out the awesome tufa I had spotted in the days before. It turned out to be Gran Salamandro an 8a+. Went up and tried the moves which felt steady but got harder the higher you got. It turned out to be mainly wall climbing with only a couple of brief forays onto the tufa. Still good though. Tried to redpoint and got quite high but ultimately I had zero energy and felt like I had mild asthma and fell off. Quit for the day then as I felt exhausted.

W - Climbing at a south facing crag to get some sun. Did a nice 7a, a 7b and then got shutdown with exhaustion on a 7b+. Sacked it off for the day.

T - Visiting Lucca and Pisa. Both impressive historic cities with very view tourists. Obviously good for us to take photos uninhibited, but bad for the local vendors and restaurants.

F - Went back to try Gran Salamandro. Had one try and fell off the last hard move and then stopped for the day as I had no energy. Went for a hike in the hills above. Amazing views of the mountains and Mediterranean. 

S - Back again to try Gran Salamandro. Fell off even higher on my first try but somehow managed to do it second try and salvage something from a poor climbing trip.

S - Drove back to Innsbruck.

It was obviously nice to be on holiday in Tuscany for a week but the trip was not good for climbing or my general well-being. The trip started with bad sciatica and then I had a constant allergic reaction to the house we were staying in. I couldn't identify what it was and it seemed to happen in all parts of the house. This meant I barely slept for a week and was generally exhausted with the feeling that I had mild asthma. Exerted efforts left me gasping. Oh well, on the plus side I managed to scrape up one really good route, my sciatica disappeared and I managed to tame some golfers elbow by doing that stretch Tom Randall goes on about.