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War In the Franconian Jura (Read 5534 times)

Kingy

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#25 Re: War In the Franconian Jura
October 31, 2021, 10:00:19 am
That is true. True North and Progress are lines of least resistance up that buttress. What makes them so good is that there is no other way of reaching the top of each line. If only one section were blank, each route would be impossible. Same thing with Northern Lights.

 :-\ Apart from Urgent and The Thumb for True North and North Star for Progress  :lol: But they don't feel like link-ups, just like routes that share a short section. I apologise in advance to all link/connection haters for my dubious intentions towards the roof at Kilnsey, which includes establishing a million link-ups... blame it on the PIP joint.

I agree but the existence of Northern Star doesn't really affect Progress as it is significantly harder so there is no question of detouring onto NS from Progress at any point. Urgent and the Thumb similarly don't affect True North as the latter is forced to exit right into Urgent at the top rather than it being a case of ignoring the possibility, there being no direct finish to TN (as Adam Ondra found out to his cost on his near onsight in 2011).

If easy escape possibilities to a route exist then it becomes less appealing IMO, eg. Waddage at the Tor where there are various rules about what you have to avoid or how strict you have to be (e.g, don't go to Chimes belay, don't step right at break for a rest before the dyno), all of which is absent on all routes North Buttress and for almost all routes at the crag, come to think of it.

Kingy

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#26 Re: War In the Franconian Jura
October 31, 2021, 10:07:39 am
And doesn't Magnetic North come quite close to Northern Lights?

I don't think so. No way of getting across from one to the other as far as Im aware.

abarro81

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#27 Re: War In the Franconian Jura
October 31, 2021, 10:19:31 am
Yeah, agree they don't feel like links or eliminates. That's the key really IMO - there's a time and a place for eliminates and it's bouldering not route climbing! Links should be obvious and not confuse things (and adjacent routes that are too close can confuse things, which is where they can detract IMO)

jwi

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#28 Re: War In the Franconian Jura
November 03, 2021, 09:50:41 am

Kingy

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#29 Re: War In the Franconian Jura
November 03, 2021, 07:18:44 pm
I see this linkup finishes up Burn for You, the 8c that was recently purged of its parasitic new companion to the left....

 

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