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Kentmere, little font etc. (Read 3757 times)

Graeme

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Kentmere, little font etc.
October 18, 2004, 03:31:01 pm
Might head up there at the weekend if the weathers good. How long does it take to dry out, and does it seep?

Oh and are there any really quality problems, (upto about V7/8)

Nigel

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#1 Kentmere, little font etc.
October 18, 2004, 03:50:02 pm
Well it don't seep 'cos its all boulders.

Badger Rock is sat in a field and dries dead quick. Some good stuff on here in the easier grades and a tidy place to warm up. Good arete sitter at V6 too, obvious which it is.

Little Font is in the trees about 30 secs away, plus some of the boulders have grassy tops. So there may be a bit of dampness about. Some sweet stuff though - Negative Reality Inversion V5 is a lovely thing, the stuff around Runs On Weasel V6/7/8 is nice too. I also like the basic V7 on the Elven Claw boulder, accessed through a little hole into a 'pit'.

Garburn Pass Boulder is the best spot here. Again out in the open so dries quick, but the landings may well be damp this time of year. Loads at V7/8 and all brill, this is where you should save some for.

Haven't been to Valley of the Kings or Tongue Scar, but they are minor venues and you'll have enough to go at already!  :8)

Graeme

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#2 Kentmere, little font etc.
October 18, 2004, 03:53:19 pm
Cheers

Monolith

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#3 Re: Kentmere, little font etc.
September 10, 2009, 06:28:15 pm
Pointless starting a new topic I suppose...

I was at 2000% effort crimping the living daylight out of the tiny incut on the 'pod' on Middle Earth and wasn't even moving. I presume you're only allowed that for your right and the micro shit pinch in front of you for your left? Was doable with a low left pinch and right on crimpy pod but am aware this won't be cricket. I heard crouch had similar difficulties with this and is the same height as me (just over 6.2). Is it just 8c if you're not a pygmy?

With Weasel Power, I think I'm right in asserting feet go on dinks and no heels out right? That quartz hold although not bad was tearing the living shit out of my left hand. The slap from the crimp to the rail and up was joyous so it'd be a shame not to come back to this in cold temps.

The Karma of Trees was in the blazing sun this afternoon but would love to go back for it. A stand out line indeed..

Badger Arete SDS is one of the best problems of it's grade in the country I'm sure. Lovely stuff.

The Hole was well swizzy and of a pleasing length even though it eases off after latching the jug. If only it were blessed with a tricky headwall!

Just some questions and thoughts. Have to check out Garburn Pass boulder soon.

tomtom

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#4 Re: Kentmere, little font etc.
September 10, 2009, 06:52:44 pm
 :agree: great spot. Badger arete superb (even though I've not done it all in one go.. so thats I havent done it then,..... :-\) ANYWAY - you might find parking a wee bit wanky if the weathers good and it being the weekend and all that. Wilfs cafe in Staveley is worth checking out too..

chummer

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#5 Re: Kentmere, little font etc.
September 10, 2009, 09:49:43 pm
Quote
With Weasel Power, I think I'm right in asserting feet go on dinks and no heels out right
Can't see why not as once you're into the sequence it doesn't feel like an eliminate, quite blind to place though, great problem. Worth getting up to Garburn Pass boulder before the sun goes off it if it's quite a cold and windy day, ditto the damp comment too, but plenty to get stuck into if you don't make it up there.

Monolith

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#6 Re: Kentmere, little font etc.
September 11, 2009, 11:25:00 am
Yeah am keen to check out the Garburn Pass boulder soon. So many Lake District venues I've yet to discover.

Greg C

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#7 Re: Kentmere, little font etc.
September 11, 2009, 01:14:13 pm
Few points:

*Tongue Scar is banned (not that great any who).
*Valley of the Kings is ok, however it's better in winter (no bracken), and if you do go make it the last port of call.
*My esteemed colleague Nigella is correct, in that most things don't seep. However, the "Release the Pressure" side of the Garburn Pass boulder does take a fair bit of run-off, from its heather glad top. The north face it pretty much always dry. As Chummer says: if you want sun go in the morning.
* With "The Hole", few people start in the right place - it starts on the right. 6c if you start direct.

BenF

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#8 Re: Kentmere, little font etc.
September 11, 2009, 01:20:49 pm
* With "The Hole", few people start in the right place - it starts on the right. 6c if you start direct.

Nicely put Greg "them's the rules" Chapman. 

Monolith

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#9 Re: Kentmere, little font etc.
September 11, 2009, 04:25:40 pm
Luckily I've become adept at anticipating these sort of things and so made sure to do both versions. ;)

Did you have to blow a blood vessel Greg in getting off the ground on Middle Earth? Totally at a loss with that!

 

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