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Topic slit Hubble with kneepad (Read 51365 times)

DAVETHOMAS90

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#250 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 25, 2020, 02:52:13 am
Great link, for anyone that's interested:

https://elanguageworld.com/perks-of-being-multilingual/

Rob F

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#251 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 25, 2020, 06:25:29 am
Ace photos.

Ben needs to sort himself some language lessons, get back on the Hubble wearing glasses and a kneepad and put this grade thing to bed once and for all...

Moo

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#252 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 25, 2020, 11:02:54 am
Similar tangent then dave, Undercooke, at St bees was originally climbed with a horrendously powerful undercut sequence by john cooke and given something around 7c+. Along comes Nige who decides to utilise the back of his foot instead of the front and the grade drops to around 7a.

Should Undercooke remain at 7c+ as it'd be a shame not to take in to account the effort put in by the first ascentionist or should the new more logical sequence be accepted ?

I think you're dragging the argument in the realms of the metaphysical because in some way you know it's fundamentally flawed as what you feel about the route should have no impact on its grade. The grade is purely reflective of the effort/difficulty found in climbing it.

I agree totally that routes grow to be more than their physical standing as the history develops but that will only be on a personal level.





DAVETHOMAS90

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#253 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 26, 2020, 11:35:15 pm

I am not saying that "the grade is for the ascent and not the route", but that what we call "the route" doesn't really exist in some fixed, thing-in-itself sense.


He's right about this though. The route is more than the line up the rock. It has history, it has stories, it has character, it has quality of movement (which is not just where the holds are, but the fact that us humans are climbing it), it has a line of chalked holds, it has a relationship to other routes and other standards, it has a reputation, an emotional impact.

Director's Cut (or whatever the rubble in the cave that barrows halved the grade of is) with a bunch of kneebars is the same route, but it's not the same route - otherwise we wouldn't have Doylo sobbing into his pumpkin spiced latte. Hubble with a kneebar is the same lump of rock, but it's not the same route as dreadlocked Ben gurning up a line of English 7b underclings.

Semantics, abusing the definition of the term "route", nebulous meanings and whatever, DT90 still has a good point that there's a lot more to the things we climb than the, errr, things we climb.

Nice post. Made me think that "What is a climb?" would be a good thread in its own right.

However, far from being a matter of semantics, that is the issue really - the idea that we merely apply words that point to some other fixed thing.

We don't, and I think that understanding this will help us see that we're not really fighting over what to call the same thing.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#254 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 26, 2020, 11:47:28 pm
Replying to Moo, this isn't dragging the argument into the realm of the metaphysical, but perhaps away from some of the mistakes we make about how we see the world around us.

This isn't an argument over "names".

Ref your example/Undercooke it would be nice to see a mention of the change in Beta/grade, but in cases like this, it's not unusual for the grade to reflect some of the difficulty in finding the right Beta.

Or just give a hint to the Beta, and the 7A grade. That's quite a common solution.

Nibile

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#255 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 27, 2020, 08:30:34 am
Ace photos.
Nope. I reckon they're Vectors.

SA Chris

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#256 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 27, 2020, 09:14:57 am

Ref your example/Undercooke it would be nice to see a mention of the change in Beta/grade, but in cases like this, it's not unusual for the grade to reflect some of the difficulty in finding the right Beta.

Or just give a hint to the Beta, and the 7A grade. That's quite a common solution.

Or mention the harder version as an eliminate.

As someone said (Will?) no new grades for bad beta..

Rob F

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#257 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 27, 2020, 01:35:06 pm
Definitely need the kneepads this week.

Mop up the damp from all of the wet undercuts...

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#258 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 27, 2020, 05:35:40 pm
Replying to Moo, this isn't dragging the argument into the realm of the metaphysical, but perhaps away from some of the mistakes we make about how we see the world around us.

This isn't an argument over "names".

Ref your example/Undercooke it would be nice to see a mention of the change in Beta/grade, but in cases like this, it's not unusual for the grade to reflect some of the difficulty in finding the right Beta.

Or just give a hint to the Beta, and the 7A grade. That's quite a common solution.

I seem to recall some 8a in the DWS guidebook that was graded 8c by Chris sharma. I remember reading it and thinking, wow I wonder how many holds he missed/what that beta must have been like. Nice to have a think about the process of creating/realising/materialising/whatever the route, and then know where it fits compared to what I know I can climb, if I‘m thinking about giving it a go.

jwi

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#259 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 29, 2020, 08:59:09 pm
Adam Ondra found a knee bar on Perfecto Mundo:

Wood FT

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#260 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
October 29, 2020, 10:59:18 pm
Adam Ondra found a knee bar on Perfecto Mundo:

This is like Eder findings kneebars all over Yorkshire - admirable but essentially making a new crux trying to use them

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#261 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 09, 2020, 02:32:31 pm
Full uncut knee scum action for the thread that just keeps giving


spidermonkey09

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#262 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 09, 2020, 02:48:10 pm
Full uncut knee scum action for the thread that just keeps giving

That was actually quite good. I have *not* enjoyed other films on that channel but he gets much more engagement out of Ben Moon in that than in a lot of other footage e.g. that Sean McColl Mammut one. Particularly liked the Megos swipe! Obviously neglects to ask Ben the most important question though; is Buster going to be dropped from the Moon team for using a pad?  :lol:

dunnyg

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#263 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 09, 2020, 03:17:33 pm
Agree, really enjoyed that! It being ming outside probably helps too.

tomtom

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#264 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 09, 2020, 03:24:55 pm
Its good. Ben looks especially uncomfortable being interviewed though!

Rob F

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#265 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 09, 2020, 04:45:41 pm
Thought we were on No Neebar November???

JohnM

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#266 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 09, 2020, 06:27:40 pm
Maybe this was mention before but, out of interest, who was the first person who suggested the upgrade of Hubble to 9a?

Wood FT

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#267 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 09, 2020, 07:23:34 pm
I thought it was Adam Ondra.

SA Chris

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#268 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 09, 2020, 07:52:35 pm
fucking punter, what does he know about hard climbing, bet he's never even been to minus ten.

shark

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#269 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 09, 2020, 10:45:01 pm
Re the BMC guide Zippy suggested 9a and it sounded fair so I changed the text and no one on the email chain contested it except Grimer  :lol:

grimer

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#270 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 09, 2020, 10:57:24 pm
That might be because I was the only one who had actually been on Hubble.

Duncan campbell

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#271 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 10, 2020, 06:30:42 am
8c+ you with a rack on is it??  :lol:

bigironhorse

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#272 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 14, 2020, 05:26:03 pm
https://youtu.be/OwpR5mB-HXw?t=2096

Quote
Climbing without a kneebar, is climbing without dignity

 :lol:

jwi

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#273 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 14, 2020, 06:31:47 pm
My new motto!

abarro81

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#274 Re: Topic slit Hubble with kneepad
November 14, 2020, 07:57:43 pm
So good! I want that on a t-shirt
« Last Edit: November 14, 2020, 08:05:07 pm by abarro81 »

 

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