getting a blow from a fan whilst in a kneebar, seen it all now.
Let's hope we dont have to try and work out how hard this is with/without knees
Quote from: remus on October 19, 2020, 09:04:59 pmLet's hope we dont have to try and work out how hard this is with/without knees Couldn't be arsed reading the whole thread, but I did watch Mitbo doing Ali Hulk for comparison here:I like DG, but how he can claim 9b for this (front and centre, in the title of his video) given how many times he takes both hands off for a rest is beyond me. Surely they're grades apart.
I like DG, but how he can claim 9b for this (front and centre, in the title of his video) given how many times he takes both hands off for a rest is beyond me. Surely they're grades apart.
Look how much extra beta Dave has to learn and remember on his ascent, grading isn't solely about physical difficulty. Also consider his core was probably shot after those 'rests'.
I wish they’d stuck with the female narrator in that video, and when he got to the top she’d announced, “You’re my wife now Dave”.I’d also like to confirm that London Climber will be collaborating on a limited edition collection of oak bark-tanned leather knee pads, with cast brass buckles.
Quote from: JackPal on October 20, 2020, 09:15:30 pmLook how much extra beta Dave has to learn and remember on his ascent, grading isn't solely about physical difficulty. Also consider his core was probably shot after those 'rests'.No opinion on the grade of Ali Hulk but just to point out that a sport grade is supposed to be *entirely* about physical difficulty and nothing else.(and that DG vid is the most bizarre climbing footage I think I've ever seen, and I've seen plenty from Doylo's cutting room floor).
Is it just me or did they finish different?
1: Ali Hulk (extension total sit start) 9b2: Ali Hulk (sitstart + extension) 9b3: Ali Hulk (fin de extension total sitstart) 9a+4: Ali Hulk (extension) 9a+5: Ali Hulk (extension total) 9a+6: Ali Hulk (sitstart) 9a+
Quote from: petejh on October 20, 2020, 10:10:32 pmQuote from: JackPal on October 20, 2020, 09:15:30 pmLook how much extra beta Dave has to learn and remember on his ascent, grading isn't solely about physical difficulty. Also consider his core was probably shot after those 'rests'.No opinion on the grade of Ali Hulk but just to point out that a sport grade is supposed to be *entirely* about physical difficulty and nothing else.(and that DG vid is the most bizarre climbing footage I think I've ever seen, and I've seen plenty from Doylo's cutting room floor).Is that how it works in the real world though? Certainly isn't on boulders, things with shite footholds or marginal heel hooks get bigger grades because they are technically more difficult. I assumed that in today's world of sport climbing these things would be factored in. To take it to the extreme, surely some of Meltdown or other slab like sport routes grades come from the fact that the feet are terrible and they are technically difficult, no?Regardless i'd wager this isn't a path just cause Dave manages to hang off his knees a few times.
Quote from: JackPal on October 20, 2020, 10:51:30 pmQuote from: petejh on October 20, 2020, 10:10:32 pmQuote from: JackPal on October 20, 2020, 09:15:30 pmLook how much extra beta Dave has to learn and remember on his ascent, grading isn't solely about physical difficulty. Also consider his core was probably shot after those 'rests'.No opinion on the grade of Ali Hulk but just to point out that a sport grade is supposed to be *entirely* about physical difficulty and nothing else.(and that DG vid is the most bizarre climbing footage I think I've ever seen, and I've seen plenty from Doylo's cutting room floor).Is that how it works in the real world though? Certainly isn't on boulders, things with shite footholds or marginal heel hooks get bigger grades because they are technically more difficult. I assumed that in today's world of sport climbing these things would be factored in. To take it to the extreme, surely some of Meltdown or other slab like sport routes grades come from the fact that the feet are terrible and they are technically difficult, no?Regardless i'd wager this isn't a path just cause Dave manages to hang off his knees a few times.I think when Pete says "physical difficulty" then that includes all that technique faff too. The bits that aren't factored into the number are things like it being a long walk in or tricky to find in nick or tricky to work the beta. They might affect the difficulty of doing the route, but not the number.
Quote from: Danny on October 20, 2020, 06:24:25 pmI like DG, but how he can claim 9b for this (front and centre, in the title of his video) given how many times he takes both hands off for a rest is beyond me. Surely they're grades apart.I feel like this is something that happens all the time, people see a kneebar and instantly dismiss the climb as massively easier or just piss full stop, on good kneebars that miss out hard moves this is sometimes the case, but it's damn sure often not the case too. Isla de Encanta for example, I believe Barrows has tried that kneebar and i'd guess will attest to how hard it is. All those kneebars on Pilgrimage would have probably taken me (a kneebar novice) an eternity to learn and get right. Look how much extra beta Dave has to learn and remember on his ascent, grading isn't solely about physical difficulty. Also consider his core was probably shot after those 'rests'.I'm not saying it is 9b still, I couldn't tell you if it is, but perhaps for that reason you shouldn't say it's easier than that grade and we should just take one of the worlds most experienced climbers at his word.
Isla de Encanta for example, I believe Barrows has tried that kneebar
I don't understand the point about some knees being technical. Surely most knees make things at least marginally easier, or doable.
I think when Pete says "physical difficulty" then that includes all that technique faff too. The bits that aren't factored into the number are things like it being a long walk in or tricky to find in nick or tricky to work the beta. They might affect the difficulty of doing the route, but not the number.
Barrows on Pilgrimage is amazing to watch. .
"smash on with the knees, routes change, who cares, let's downgrade the fuckers"