[Bradders]

I've recently used several different liquid chalks, so thought I'd do a lil review in case it's helpful to anyone.

For context I have fairly dry skin naturally, although quite warm hands which seems to translate to my skin warming up very easily and therefore sweating more. I therefore find liquid chalk really helpful as it cools my skin down as well as providing a good baselayer.

1. Carbon Grip Dry
The best I've used by some distance. Dries quickly, forms a really nice even coverage and has a consistency that seems to cool my skin really nicely. Doesn't smell at all. If it has a downside it's that it's almost a little difficult to get rid of, e.g. with all the others I can just rinse my hands with water before getting in the car and it's fine, whereas with this stuff I have to wash quite thoroughly otherwise it leaves residue on the steering wheel!

2. Rock Technologies
Does everything the Carbon stuff does but just not quite as well.

3. DMM
Deeply average. Doesn't smell as bad as the Edelrid and isn't as runny, doesn't dry as well as the RT stuff.

4. Edelrid
Dries quickly and does cool skin down nicely. However, it absolutely stinks, seems to have a really high alcohol content and doesn't give very even coverage, plus seems to disappear quite quickly. Also very runny and easily spilled.

5. Friction Labs Secret Stuff (alcohol free)
Absolute shite. I suppose it does say it's meant for drier places, whereas I've used it in the humidity of SW Ireland and Austria, but honestly it's terrible. Doesn't dry properly without using a fan, poor coverage, doesn't cool skin down and genuinely seems to make skin wetter instead of drier!

[T_B]

Interesting. I rate the Friction Labs 80% alcohol but only in comparison to the Ocun and Decathlon stuff.

Do you know any UK shops who stock Carbon Grip? I can only see it on Amazon.

[Bradders]

I've only ever bought it from Amazon I'm afraid.

[tomtom]

If where something is sourced from is relevant (local produce - reduced carbon footprint etc..) then bear in mind that Rock Technologies LC is a small firm based in Oldham

https://rocktechnologies.co.uk/about-us/

DMM UK based too Obvs.

[kingholmesy]

DMM UK based too Obvs.

The bottle I’ve got says it’s made for DMM by another company in the Czech Republic.

[slab_happy]

Interesting. I rate the Friction Labs 80% alcohol but only in comparison to the Ocun and Decathlon stuff.

Do you know any UK shops who stock Carbon Grip? I can only see it on Amazon.

Yeah, I like the Friction Labs 80% too. Switched to it during the pandemic when we were all more worried about fomites than (with hindsight and more science) we probably needed to be, sticking with it for now because it seems to work well for me.

[jwi]

None of the bouldering gyms in Toulouse allow loose chalk any more, so I am a bit of a connaisseur of liquid chalk.

All liquid chalk is really bad compared to loose chalk. Simond/Decatholn is the worst I have tried. Beal is a bit better. EB is better still. The “best”/least bad is Easy-Grip https://easygrip-france.com/p/25-flacons-de-magnesie-liquide-200ml-easygrip

[SA Chris]

Agree the decathlon stuff is foul. The psychi stuff is a bit better, but i don't use it much, and it seems to be separating or settling out more each time i use it, does it have a limited shelf life? Just need a good shake regularly, or any other options.

[Paul B]

None of the bouldering gyms in Toulouse allow loose chalk any more, so I am a bit of a connaisseur of liquid chalk.

All liquid chalk is really bad compared to loose chalk. Simond/Decatholn is the worst I have tried. Beal is a bit better. EB is better still. The “best”/least bad is Easy-Grip https://easygrip-france.com/p/25-flacons-de-magnesie-liquide-200ml-easygrip

Like Kendal Wall circa 2000 then. Anyone else remember Earl's booting of his not quite fully closed chalk bucket during the BBCs (semis perhaps)?

Liquid chalk is serving a different purpose to me; as someone who's hands (and feet) seem to sweat a lot I've always thought of liquid chalk as delaying that point on a route where I was chalking every other move.

I think people suggesting what works for them on this thread needs to come with a disclaimer as to how much hand spooge they naturally generate. I've always loved Superchalk but many with drier hands don't like it at all.

[jwi]

Liquid chalk cleans the hand from grease as it has alcohol, and it temporary cools the skin as the alcohol evaporates. Since been forced to climb only with liquid chalk when training indoors, I've stopped using it outdoors. It is clearly worse than loose chalk at every aspect.

Re OP. Wooden hangboards in gyms that enforce liquid chalk are much more slick than gym hangboards elsewhere.(n≈

I have very thick hard skin that is pretty moist.

[Dac]

I possess naturally very sweaty hands, and have never had any real success with liquid chalk. I've always found that repeated applications seem to leave a slippery residue on my hands.

As an aside I am not convinced that liquid chalk does clean oil and grease from your hands. The oil and grease may be dissolve in it due to the high alcohol content, but once it has evaporated surely any oil and grease will still remain on your hands.

[sdm]

5. Friction Labs Secret Stuff (alcohol free)
Absolute shite. I suppose it does say it's meant for drier places, whereas I've used it in the humidity of SW Ireland and Austria, but honestly it's terrible. Doesn't dry properly without using a fan, poor coverage, doesn't cool skin down and genuinely seems to make skin wetter instead of drier!

I had a similar experience with the Friction Labs 80%. Didn't mix well at all. Despite shaking vigorously before each use, I had to throw about half the bottle because it had separated and dried out.

It was also slow at drying on the skin, and felt slightly cakey, never fully drying, leaving a slightly slippery surface.

The best liquid chalk I've used was the old pof-free Petzl formula. It looks like the only formula they sell now has pof in it. People seem to really rate it but I can't bring myself to buy chalk with pof in it.

I'm currently using Rock Technologies which is OK. Doesn't dry as quickly or cool your skin as much the Petzl did. It's got a slightly unpleasant odour but it took me a few weeks to notice so I don't think it's a big deal.

I use liquid chalk as a base under loose chalk and I have thin, sweaty skin (used to favour Super Chalk).

[SA Chris]

but once it has evaporated surely any oil and grease will still remain on your hands.

This. I have been experimenting with giving hands a thorough wash with washing up liquid before hangboard sessions and it seems to help.

[Duma]

Liquid chalk cleans the hand from grease as it has alcohol, and it temporary cools the skin as the alcohol evaporates. Since been forced to climb only with liquid chalk when training indoors, I've stopped using it outdoors. It is clearly worse than loose chalk at every aspect.

Re OP. Wooden hangboards in gyms that enforce liquid chalk are much more slick than gym hangboards elsewhere.(n≈

I have very thick hard skin that is pretty moist.

The other thing is that if liquid chalk is all that's allowed, no one carries a brush...