[duncan]

I've started using liquid chalk when finger-boarding. The driver was to minimise dust in the living area but it seem to be helping hang on a second or two longer when doing repeater-style aerobic power work. Perhaps because it's hard to chalk-up during the three seconds rest. Or perhaps it's placebo.

I'm using the Wild Country version due to availability rather than anything else. It's described as "pure chalk" but - after buying it - I noticed the third ingredient is Colophonium ie pine resin.

Will the resin screw up the (wooden) fingerboard? Will it screw up the rock if I use it outside?

Do any of the different liquid chalk formations work better or worse than another? The ingredient are much more varied than dry chalk but recent discussion here and elsewhere has focused on their antiviral properties.

[tomtom]

Good topic Duncan - was thinking of posting something similar.

Like you I use it mainly at home on the board - where it works great. 2-3 applications does me a session. I use the RockTechnology stuff - that also has some resin in it. I also have some Decathlon elite (or something) LC that is a bit gloopier but seems to work well too.

It leaves my beastmaker a bit sticky (the resin) but I think thats mainly because I have used it before the chalk has dried properly. No such problems on my board - on the wood or plastic holds - all nice and clean still.

I have tried using it outside and my (n=1) findings are: 1. Its shite on grit. I don't bother after trying it a handful of times. Makes things worse rather than better. 2. Its about the same as regular chalk on lime. Sometimes feels better - sometimes feels worse.

I don't have sweaty hands - and appreciate for some its semi essential.

[slab_happy]

I've not noticed any problems using liquid chalk containing resin on wooden fingerboards, but out of caution I have switched to a resin-free version ( https://rockrun.com/products/kletterretter-seventy-liquid-chalk-200ml , since it's also got the required alcohol for hand sanitizing) for use outside.

I do find that liquid chalk seems to keep my hands effectively "chalked" for longer and require less re-chalking.

[Fiend]

Decathlon Strong and DMM are nicest, although the former dries slowly.

Rock Technologies is a reliable workhorse and gives a good drying crust but I think they've got a new formula as it smells like regurgitated bellend.

Decathlon normal is pretty lame and dries so slowly you might as well apply it during your fingerboard warm-up before the 2 hour drive to the crag.

Secret Stuff should be renamed Secret Slime as it's so slippery it's like applying talc mixed with moisturiser.

Camp (?) Power Liquid is like the worst aspects of the above two combined and the only power is the extra training benefit having to try even harder as you slip off.

[Will Hunt]

Secret Stuff should be renamed Secret Slime as it's so slippery it's like applying talc mixed with moisturiser.

IDK but I think you're supposed to let it dry before climbing.

[Dac]

I too find friction labs liquid chalk to feel a bit slimy upon occasion, but I don’t seem to find any advantage of Any of the limited liquid chalks I have tried over the normal powdered variety.

As an aside I noticed that Friction Labs also do an alcohol free liquid chalk, which intriguingly they describe as “ ideal for arid climates or climbers with naturally dry skin “. So it’s nice to know that if I ever find myself not needing chalk that there’s a chalk out there that perfect for the job.

[mrjonathanr]

 

[Fiend]

As an aside I noticed that Friction Labs also do an alcohol free liquid chalk, which intriguingly they describe as “ ideal for arid climates or climbers with naturally dry skin “. So it’s nice to know that if I ever find myself not needing chalk that there’s a chalk out there that perfect for the job.

Genius 


Will, no shit, that's part of the problem.

[duncan]

Thanks all. The Friction Labs Clayton’s chalk sounds ideal 

[Fultonius]

As an aside I noticed that Friction Labs also do an alcohol free liquid chalk, which intriguingly they describe as “ ideal for arid climates or climbers with naturally dry skin “. So it’s nice to know that if I ever find myself not needing chalk that there’s a chalk out there that perfect for the job.

Genius 


Will, no shit, that's part of the problem.

Any recent updates on this? I had a bottle of the alcohol free friction labs, wasn't impressed.

One online review seemed to say the Petzl stuff was very good for friction, longevity and cost. But then another said:

The fine powder gets deep into the cracks and creases on your hands, providing more friction and better grip

So basically I don't trust anything else they said...

What the current favourite? Main aim is to reduce chalking on a short sport project.... (that is highly friction dependent)

[Nike Air]

Has anyone tried cheese?

[SA Chris]

Decathlon Strong

I got some of this, but it says it contains Colophonium (resin) so I've always been reluctant to use it outdoors, is it so low a concentration  that it's OK? Might be why it's so slow to dry.

[mrjonathanr]

Has anyone tried cheese?

Brie for sandstone. Roquefort works best on volcanics. Do let me know how it goes 

[Nike Air]

Primula travels well

[Fultonius]

Primula travels well

A mate at uni once brushed his teeth with this. Day 4 of a massive bender. As you do.

I would have though those nasty packs of Napolina dried parmesan, that everyone used in the 80s would work? Dry and dusty! No idea why anyone thought that was even halfway good as a substitute for The Real Deal.

[ali k]

I would have though those nasty packs of Napolina dried parmesan, that everyone used in the 80s would work? Dry and dusty! No idea why anyone thought that was even halfway good as a substitute for The Real Deal.

My parents still buy that stuff. Makes me gag 

[mrjonathanr]

Primula travels well

Righto. I'll give this a go at the Depot later 

[cheque]

it contains Colophonium (resin) so I've always been reluctant to use it outdoors, is it so low a concentration  that it's OK? Might be why it's so slow to dry.

I started using liquid chalk on my fingerboard last year and from

How effective it is compared to chalk
How sticky and hard to clean it leaves my BeastMaker
How much it reeks of pine resin and
How it says it’s got pine resin in it on the tube

I can’t help but feel that liquid chalk (the two types I’ve used anyway, Rock Technologies and Ocun) is to pof what “eco pegs” are to bolts. 

[webbo]

I was using liquid chalk on my board as it’s in the garage along side the washing machine, tumble drier, boiler and the wife’s bike, plus mine. The missus didn’t want chalk getting on all those. I found it ok but I find the sensation of it on my hands uncomfortable.
So I’ve gradually started using normal chalk and just take the flak or say nothing when it’s mentioned.

[Fiend]

Pretty sure the tiny amount of resin in Decathlon Strong will make fuck all difference to greasy flaky schist that gets swamped by the sea twice a day.

I got something from a London wall recently that was kinda weird, dried really quick into a very fine powder on my paws. Not sure I'd recommend it.

I think on reflection the DMM stuff is my current favourite. Reasonably long-lasting and less like rotting bellend than the 5 stuff.

[cheque]

the tiny amount of resin in Decathlon Strong

The website says it’s 21% Magnesium Carbonate, 5% Colophonium & 1% Styrax benzoin gum so it’s a little over a 4:1 chalk-to-pof ratio.

The ingredients list for my Ocun stuff (from the tube, they’re not on the Ocun website) is exactly the same but it doesn’t give the percentages.

[SA Chris]

Pretty sure the tiny amount of resin in Decathlon Strong will make fuck all difference to greasy flaky schist that gets swamped by the sea twice a day.

Yup, you got me that's the only place I climb..

If it wasn't obvious actually it isn't

[danm]

I've been really impressed by Gekco chalk, both for it's performance and for their environmental/community policies. The chalk itself is derived from processed seawater rather than being mined in China. I've not used the liquid chalk yet but I do remember Ben (company founder) saying none of their chalk contained resin or additives. Might be worth a go? The standard chalk is as good (OK, I'm a punter, how would I know really?) as the Friction labs stuff.

[andy_e]

I have a bottle of Gekco liquid chalk that dried out very quickly, and is now a near solid lump of incredibly high viscosity white goop. I'm yet to try adding alcohol to it to reinvigorate it.

[Duma]

I've been really impressed by Gekco chalk, both for it's performance and for their environmental/community policies. The chalk itself is derived from processed seawater rather than being mined in China. I've not used the liquid chalk yet but I do remember Ben (company founder) saying none of their chalk contained resin or additives. Might be worth a go? The standard chalk is as good (OK, I'm a punter, how would I know really?) as the Friction labs stuff.

This stuff is awful, it's like flour. I'm not fussy about chalk, but would never get it again.

[Bradders]

I've recently used several different liquid chalks, so thought I'd do a lil review in case it's helpful to anyone.

For context I have fairly dry skin naturally, although quite warm hands which seems to translate to my skin warming up very easily and therefore sweating more. I therefore find liquid chalk really helpful as it cools my skin down as well as providing a good baselayer.

1. Carbon Grip Dry
The best I've used by some distance. Dries quickly, forms a really nice even coverage and has a consistency that seems to cool my skin really nicely. Doesn't smell at all. If it has a downside it's that it's almost a little difficult to get rid of, e.g. with all the others I can just rinse my hands with water before getting in the car and it's fine, whereas with this stuff I have to wash quite thoroughly otherwise it leaves residue on the steering wheel!

2. Rock Technologies
Does everything the Carbon stuff does but just not quite as well.

3. DMM
Deeply average. Doesn't smell as bad as the Edelrid and isn't as runny, doesn't dry as well as the RT stuff.

4. Edelrid
Dries quickly and does cool skin down nicely. However, it absolutely stinks, seems to have a really high alcohol content and doesn't give very even coverage, plus seems to disappear quite quickly. Also very runny and easily spilled.

5. Friction Labs Secret Stuff (alcohol free)
Absolute shite. I suppose it does say it's meant for drier places, whereas I've used it in the humidity of SW Ireland and Austria, but honestly it's terrible. Doesn't dry properly without using a fan, poor coverage, doesn't cool skin down and genuinely seems to make skin wetter instead of drier!

[T_B]

Interesting. I rate the Friction Labs 80% alcohol but only in comparison to the Ocun and Decathlon stuff.

Do you know any UK shops who stock Carbon Grip? I can only see it on Amazon.

[Bradders]

I've only ever bought it from Amazon I'm afraid.

[tomtom]

If where something is sourced from is relevant (local produce - reduced carbon footprint etc..) then bear in mind that Rock Technologies LC is a small firm based in Oldham

https://rocktechnologies.co.uk/about-us/

DMM UK based too Obvs.

[kingholmesy]

DMM UK based too Obvs.

The bottle I’ve got says it’s made for DMM by another company in the Czech Republic.

[slab_happy]

Interesting. I rate the Friction Labs 80% alcohol but only in comparison to the Ocun and Decathlon stuff.

Do you know any UK shops who stock Carbon Grip? I can only see it on Amazon.

Yeah, I like the Friction Labs 80% too. Switched to it during the pandemic when we were all more worried about fomites than (with hindsight and more science) we probably needed to be, sticking with it for now because it seems to work well for me.

[jwi]

None of the bouldering gyms in Toulouse allow loose chalk any more, so I am a bit of a connaisseur of liquid chalk.

All liquid chalk is really bad compared to loose chalk. Simond/Decatholn is the worst I have tried. Beal is a bit better. EB is better still. The “best”/least bad is Easy-Grip https://easygrip-france.com/p/25-flacons-de-magnesie-liquide-200ml-easygrip

[SA Chris]

Agree the decathlon stuff is foul. The psychi stuff is a bit better, but i don't use it much, and it seems to be separating or settling out more each time i use it, does it have a limited shelf life? Just need a good shake regularly, or any other options.

[Paul B]

None of the bouldering gyms in Toulouse allow loose chalk any more, so I am a bit of a connaisseur of liquid chalk.

All liquid chalk is really bad compared to loose chalk. Simond/Decatholn is the worst I have tried. Beal is a bit better. EB is better still. The “best”/least bad is Easy-Grip https://easygrip-france.com/p/25-flacons-de-magnesie-liquide-200ml-easygrip

Like Kendal Wall circa 2000 then. Anyone else remember Earl's booting of his not quite fully closed chalk bucket during the BBCs (semis perhaps)?

Liquid chalk is serving a different purpose to me; as someone who's hands (and feet) seem to sweat a lot I've always thought of liquid chalk as delaying that point on a route where I was chalking every other move.

I think people suggesting what works for them on this thread needs to come with a disclaimer as to how much hand spooge they naturally generate. I've always loved Superchalk but many with drier hands don't like it at all.

[jwi]

Liquid chalk cleans the hand from grease as it has alcohol, and it temporary cools the skin as the alcohol evaporates. Since been forced to climb only with liquid chalk when training indoors, I've stopped using it outdoors. It is clearly worse than loose chalk at every aspect.

Re OP. Wooden hangboards in gyms that enforce liquid chalk are much more slick than gym hangboards elsewhere.(n≈

I have very thick hard skin that is pretty moist.

[Dac]

I possess naturally very sweaty hands, and have never had any real success with liquid chalk. I've always found that repeated applications seem to leave a slippery residue on my hands.

As an aside I am not convinced that liquid chalk does clean oil and grease from your hands. The oil and grease may be dissolve in it due to the high alcohol content, but once it has evaporated surely any oil and grease will still remain on your hands.

[sdm]

5. Friction Labs Secret Stuff (alcohol free)
Absolute shite. I suppose it does say it's meant for drier places, whereas I've used it in the humidity of SW Ireland and Austria, but honestly it's terrible. Doesn't dry properly without using a fan, poor coverage, doesn't cool skin down and genuinely seems to make skin wetter instead of drier!

I had a similar experience with the Friction Labs 80%. Didn't mix well at all. Despite shaking vigorously before each use, I had to throw about half the bottle because it had separated and dried out.

It was also slow at drying on the skin, and felt slightly cakey, never fully drying, leaving a slightly slippery surface.

The best liquid chalk I've used was the old pof-free Petzl formula. It looks like the only formula they sell now has pof in it. People seem to really rate it but I can't bring myself to buy chalk with pof in it.

I'm currently using Rock Technologies which is OK. Doesn't dry as quickly or cool your skin as much the Petzl did. It's got a slightly unpleasant odour but it took me a few weeks to notice so I don't think it's a big deal.

I use liquid chalk as a base under loose chalk and I have thin, sweaty skin (used to favour Super Chalk).

[SA Chris]

but once it has evaporated surely any oil and grease will still remain on your hands.

This. I have been experimenting with giving hands a thorough wash with washing up liquid before hangboard sessions and it seems to help.

[Duma]

Liquid chalk cleans the hand from grease as it has alcohol, and it temporary cools the skin as the alcohol evaporates. Since been forced to climb only with liquid chalk when training indoors, I've stopped using it outdoors. It is clearly worse than loose chalk at every aspect.

Re OP. Wooden hangboards in gyms that enforce liquid chalk are much more slick than gym hangboards elsewhere.(n≈

I have very thick hard skin that is pretty moist.

The other thing is that if liquid chalk is all that's allowed, no one carries a brush...