[Duma]

especially compared to futuras (I appreciate they're very different shoes).

I want something stiffer than my futuras for sport, but trying stuff on is a pain atm for obvious reasons. I've been using tenaya oasi but mine are half a size or so too big, think I'd like something a bit stiffer than these too.

[spidermonkey09]

Probably of limited use given they are different shoes, but my experience with the womens miura lace is that I can go ridiculously small and they'll bag out to a very comfortable level quite quickly, while still retaining stiffness. It took a few incarnations and a bit of trial and error to work it out.

I take a size 8/42 in trainers/approach shoes and with the miuras its 38.5/5.5. With the mens lace its about the same, but they are higher volume and don't fit me as well.

[James Malloch]

A slight caveat is that my futuras were a bit used when I got them so were broken In a little. And this was 4 years ago so I’m unsure i the fit has changed.

My Futuras are a size 41 and were reasonably comfy when I got them - I.e. not a pain in the arse to get on. I found they were painful after doing a route, for example, but I get that with a lot of tight, downturned shoes.

I also wore Miura VS a lot at the time (though this was 4 years ago now so things may have changed). In these I used to buy a 41 or a 41.5.

The 41 took a lot of wearing in and were really painful out of the box. I found myself having to wear them in the house a lot before contemplating climbing in them. Or bouldering in them indoors but taking them off a lot and just putting them on to climb. But after a bunch of sessions I found them to be great but still a bit uncomfortable. I would never subject myself to this again and have bought bigger shoes since...

The 41.5 made a big difference out of the box and whilst they were uncomfortable they broke in way quicker and got to the point where I could wear them for a full indoors session after a while without discomfort. Though I would quite possibly try a 42 next time if I got another pair.

I had a brand new pair of 41 VS’s which I gave away To a friend recently. I could still get them on and have a board session but they were uncomfortable and I took them off between attempts. I now wear a 42 Scarpa Instinct VS and find these super comfortable out of the box. Fit me really well like the Futura and Miura did.

A bit of a ramble but i guess in summary, i would probably go half a size up in the Miura VS compared to the future (or maybe a full size now that I’ve started wearing more comfortable shoes and not noticing any performance difference).

The 41’s were just far too tight and I think the stiffness of them made a massive difference to the comfort.

[iain]

Can't compare directly to Futuras but, the Miura are so supportive you can get away with comfort sizing them a little more.

I wear a 41 in Sportiva approach shoes (TX2/4) and for men's Miura VS use 39 (or 39.5 for swollen holiday feet).
I suspect if I got a 38.5 I'd be in James' painful at the end of a route territory, but I've never thought tighter shoes would make a difference to what I'm standing on.

Having worn both I also feel that the women's VS stretch a little more than the men's, maybe due to Edge rather than Grip rubber. I resole the men's once after which they're starting to get baggy.

[James Malloch]

Can't compare directly to Futuras but, the Miura are so supportive you can get away with comfort sizing them a little more.

I wear a 41 in Sportiva approach shoes (TX2/4) and for men's Miura VS use 39 (or 39.5 for swollen holiday feet).
I suspect if I got a 38.5 I'd be in James' painful at the end of a route territory, but I've never thought tighter shoes would make a difference to what I'm standing on.

Having worn both I also feel that the women's VS stretch a little more than the men's, maybe due to Edge rather than Grip rubber. I resole the men's once after which they're starting to get baggy.

In contrast to this, I wear a 46 in the Boulder X approach shoes, though normally 44/45 in street shoes.

But i did find that the comfort sizing mentioned makes a big difference. I’ve not worn them for 3 years or so now (favouring the instincts) but I always went for the smallest that I could get but this was hugely overkill given how stiff the shoes were. I don’t think that, in general, my comfy instinct VS make me perform worse than the super tight Miura.

[Duma]

Thanks all, much appreciated! I wear 40 in the futuras (for bouldering) and was looking at going up to 40.5 so this is really useful. (Now I think I should be looking at 41's!)

[moose]

I also wear the Miura VS a half size larger than all my Sportiva slippers - Pythons, Futuras, Venoms.

Street 46
Miura lace, Miura VS, Kataki, Katana 43
Future, Python, Venom 42.5

[Duma]

Follow up: got 40.5, bit painful initially but pretty much spot on now after 4 sessions.