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G again, first of grade etc (Read 17003 times)

Bonjoy

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#50 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 29, 2020, 04:07:29 pm
If that accurately reflects the level of scepticism among climbers. I'm not sure it does though. Some ascents seem more likely than others. I doubt guide writers have any wish to either exclude them all (there are some very low grade ones too remember) or start arbitrarily excluding some and not others. The dagger symbols in old guides were pretty handy for expressing uncertainty.
« Last Edit: September 29, 2020, 04:15:53 pm by Bonjoy »

Nutty

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#51 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 29, 2020, 04:10:08 pm
So we have a choice either leave them all in at the grades suggested and agree he did them or write them out of the history books which means we are saying he lied. I dont think doing the later would be right so we have to accept the former and move on.
Well there's a few things that are written out of/heavily asterisked in the Lake District Bouldering guidebook (as described by carlisle slapper here:https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30355.msg594338.html#msg594338): The Karma of Trees sit isn't mentioned, Atrocity Exhibition is graded 8? with a description of where it 'allegedly' goes. Shadowplay is 'infamous and now broken'.

Teaboy

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#52 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 29, 2020, 10:07:34 pm
I for one totally believe all of Bonjoys ascents and think this witch hunt must stop.

Anyone who knows Bonjoy in real life, as I do, will tell you that he's a sound guy with a solid character and I don't believe he'd be able to lie to a goose.

Yeah, stop hating on the geeze!

shark

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#53 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 09:48:53 am
(including trips to the crag with the man himself)

Did that actually happen in the end??

(and do you have any evidence that it happened...?)

abarro81

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#54 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 10:15:45 am
as we cant prove he didnt we have to accept his word and move on. Its a waste of time arguing and boring.

It's only boring when people use dumb arguments like that ;)

The quoted argument
1) fails if we use "balance of probabilities" as the burden for proof (likely the best option in these scenarios)
and/or
2) becomes absurd (as pointed out by multiple others) if we use something far more rigorous as the burden of proof.

Hubble is 9a according to people who have not actually climbed it, and 8c+ to those who have done it, no?
I think Dawson and Bosi both thought 9a seemed fair, and have done it
« Last Edit: September 30, 2020, 10:31:08 am by abarro81 »

jwi

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#55 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 10:29:39 am
Hubble is 9a according to people who have not actually climbed it, and 8c+ to those who have done it, no?
I think Dawson and Bosi both thought 9a seemed, and have done it
Good knowledge!

iain

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#56 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 11:31:37 am
(including trips to the crag with the man himself)

Did that actually happen in the end??

(and do you have any evidence that it happened...?)

I've got a random memory sometimes. Found what popped into my head from the thread Nutty linked above:
We were going to arrange a session in kentmere to sort out shadowplay but it never worked out.

remus

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#57 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 12:25:58 pm
(including trips to the crag with the man himself)

Did that actually happen in the end??

(and do you have any evidence that it happened...?)

I've got a random memory sometimes. Found what popped into my head from the thread Nutty linked above:
We were going to arrange a session in kentmere to sort out shadowplay but it never worked out.

Good knowledge Iain. Apologies for the misinformation shark.

JamieG

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#58 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 12:59:39 pm
Isn't one of the issues with some of the harder things that G claims to have done (or has done  :shrug:) is that it ended up compressing the top of the grading scale in the UK. I'm sure Dan (and maybe Ned too) said before he didn't grade stuff 8C (particularly in the Lakes) because it wasn't as hard as G's "8Cs". This actually has a knock on effect that wads may be less likely to visit the UK (apart from the weather) to try our hardest problems since they aren't graded that hard, therefore potentially diminishing the profile of UK bouldering internationally.

But perhaps people don't actually care that much, it's only a grade after all. And we don't get that many visitors anyway.

SA Chris

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#59 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 01:05:50 pm
Plus the weather is shite.

Fiend

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#60 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 01:41:23 pm
I'm sure Dan (and maybe Ned too) said before he didn't grade stuff 8C (particularly in the Lakes) because it wasn't as hard as G's "8Cs".
Correct, he said that explicitly in the "Chasing a spectre" thread which for some reason I was skim-reading last night.

Wads should be visiting the UK, weather aside, for the quality and variety of (non-limestone ofc) bouldering, rather than just > 8C grades  :)

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#61 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 03:58:49 pm
I'm sure that now there's a 10a route and 9b boulder for them to go at they'll be flocking over in droves.

I've actually started producing a line of Wad tour ponchos so they can stay relatively dry while thrashing around looking for our esoteric, finger strength dependent test pieces in the pissing rain. I mean why go to font or Switzerland when you can visit wales ?

Fiend

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#62 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 04:09:37 pm
I mean why go to font or Switzerland when you can visit wales ?
Variety and scenery. I've heard the coastal gabbro bouldering in Switzerland is wank and the mountain dolerite solitude in Font is well overrated.

36chambers

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#63 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 04:14:06 pm
I'm sure that now there's a 10a route and 9b boulder for them to go at they'll be flocking over in droves.

I've actually started producing a line of Wad tour ponchos so they can stay relatively dry while thrashing around looking for our esoteric, finger strength dependent test pieces in the pissing rain. I mean why go to font or Switzerland when you can visit wales ?

I'm sure Megos is dreaming about his return to Parisella's.

:off topic: but has Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece had a repeat? Also does the UK have any other problems that have been put up by international wads that have yet to seen a repeat?

Doylo

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#64 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 04:32:56 pm
I'm sure that now there's a 10a route and 9b boulder for them to go at they'll be flocking over in droves.

I've actually started producing a line of Wad tour ponchos so they can stay relatively dry while thrashing around looking for our esoteric, finger strength dependent test pieces in the pissing rain. I mean why go to font or Switzerland when you can visit wales ?

I'm sure Megos is dreaming about his return to Parisella's.

:off topic: but has Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece had a repeat?

I heard Aidan tried it fairly recently  ..... Too hot I expect

Doylo

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#65 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 04:35:04 pm
I'm sure that now there's a 10a route and 9b boulder for them to go at they'll be flocking over in droves.

I've actually started producing a line of Wad tour ponchos so they can stay relatively dry while thrashing around looking for our esoteric, finger strength dependent test pieces in the pissing rain. I mean why go to font or Switzerland when you can visit wales ?

I'm sure Megos is dreaming about his return to Parisella's.

:off topic: but has Das Pumpenhausen Testpiece had a repeat? Also does the UK have any other problems that have been put up by international wads that have yet to seen a repeat?

It’s a long one but Mike Psyche repeated Louis Cut in Cave. And Belly of the Beast at Tor is Webb Parsnips creation . None unrepeated afaik

cheque

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#66 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 04:44:58 pm
does the UK have any other problems that have been put up by international wads that have yet to seen a repeat?

Brad Pit sit start?

Doylo

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#67 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 04:51:40 pm
does the UK have any other problems that have been put up by international wads that have yet to seen a repeat?

Brad Pit sit start?
MAdams has done that. With the heel finish obvs.

Bradders

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#68 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 04:52:23 pm
does the UK have any other problems that have been put up by international wads that have yet to seen a repeat?

Brad Pit sit start?

Didn't Mike Adams do this? Either FA or 2nd ascent.

cheque

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#69 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 30, 2020, 08:05:17 pm
FA was Thomas Willenberg, a German bloke who at the time of the 2006 Stanage guide was also the only known person to repeat the stand via the original Myers method too. I hadn’t heard about Mike’s repeat but I’m far from an authority on these things so thought someone might have.

webbo

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#70 Re: G again, first of grade etc
October 01, 2020, 08:11:29 am
FA was Thomas Willenberg, a German bloke who at the time of the 2006 Stanage guide was also the only known person to repeat the stand via the original Myers method too. I hadn’t heard about Mike’s repeat but I’m far from an authority on these things so thought someone might have.
He was rather tall apparently.

tomtom

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#71 Re: G again, first of grade etc
October 01, 2020, 08:14:30 am
Here’s a picture - of TW in action on the SS.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,574.msg4944.html#msg4944

(Only come around 17 years later... 😀)

 

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