UKBouldering.com

G again, first of grade etc (Read 17005 times)

Will Hunt

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
G again, first of grade etc
September 26, 2020, 07:38:36 pm
I'm a Cattellite which means I revere the prophet Danny C who brings glad tidings of The G. Danny teaches us that "believing in G is an act of faith. Believing in G enriches people's lives".

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#1 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 26, 2020, 07:55:06 pm
I'm a Cattellite which means I revere the prophet Danny C who brings glad tidings of The G. Danny teaches us that "believing in G is an act of faith. Believing in G enriches people's lives".

Can’t wait to tell the LittleCunt about all this if I ever speak to him again...

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#2 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 26, 2020, 10:18:37 pm
Good to see from the comments that there’s at least one disciple of the G left!

So Aidan basically did all of his projects in around a week? That’s so cool. I wonder if having people around to try them with rather than climbing on his own helped!

Such a good feeling when you're riding the wave!

RE John Kettle's comment; it's really not true that no one has raised their doubts with G. Shark did just that in his interview! And all he came back with was vague and completely unconvincing explanations! I'd much rather celebrate truly genuine monsters like Aidan.

Would have said that on the Insta post but don't want to make the post into a slanging match.

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6
#3 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 26, 2020, 10:35:14 pm
Was his comment serious?  I had presumed it was a piss take.

I try not to get involved in the gaskins thing and try to believe him but things like this make it difficult.
It would have been cutting edge at the time.

thekettle

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 203
  • Karma: +27/-0
    • johnkettle.com
#4 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 09:10:09 am
My comment on Aidans' post wasn't a piss take!
I don't know either way whether Mr G is telling porkies, but I get the distinct impression he has no idea anyone doubts his credibility. When he was openly accused of lying by Marcus Bock, he strenuously defended himself. If someone pointed him to some of the accusations cast on UKB, I expect he would:
a) be very upset
b)respond
Whether his response changed anyones' opinion is another matter.
It's the idea that you can be accused and convicted behind your back (writing off your entire climbing career) without ever knowing which really irks me. People should always be given the opportunity to state their case in my view.
I care more about that, than which way this particular case swings.

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6
#5 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 10:12:06 am
I am not getting involved either way as I have always been more in the innocent until proven guilty camp.

I don’t agree with you saying he has no idea about the doubts though. He must live in the smallest of bubbles for that to be true.

Not for this tread anyway and not worth it’s own. History will sort it out.
Effort aiden, looks a great addition and hilarious that he’s given it 8B+ but only that grade for 8C strong climbers.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
#6 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 10:33:14 am
He must live in the smallest of bubbles for that to be true.

 :agree:

JamieG

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1278
  • Karma: +80/-0
#7 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 10:45:32 am
innocent until proven guilty

This is tricky in climbing since you can't prove someone hasn't climbed something. You can only express your doubt and ask for reassurances. Perhaps for them to show you the moves/holds. Eyewitnesses etc. That's why trust is so important.

Edit - amazing effort by Aidan. I can't even imagine being this strong. Looking forward to the video(s).

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
#8 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 11:04:50 am
Let's consider it a civil case and "proof" can be on the balance of probabilities... on which Gaskins seems  :-\ by all I've heard

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#9 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 11:11:50 am
It is not that easy to confront people when you doubt their ascents. I have done it once face-to-face with a climber that I did not know very well (but we had quite a lot of friends in common). It was extremely uncomfortable, for me at least.

A friend of mine told me that he did a route which I had good reasons to believe that he did not climb. I just let it slip, which is what I think that most people would do.

This asymmetric power in a situation where proof is hard to ask for is what makes certain sports like golf ask for signed scorecards as a default, every time.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9932
  • Karma: +561/-8
#10 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 11:24:27 am

It's the idea that you can be accused and convicted behind your back (writing off your entire climbing career) without ever knowing which really irks me. People should always be given the opportunity to state their case in my view.
I care more about that, than which way this particular case swings.
JG's output has been publicly doubted and dissected in minute detail on and off line for literally decades now. This includes questions directed to John in a UKB video interview. At this point there is absolutely nothing 'behind your back' about this. On that front I don't think you need to be irked. And this in turn represents decades of opportunity for John to 'state his case'. At what point, having had 'the opportunity to state their case' does the lack of said case start to speak for itself?
After this long people will draw their own conclusions, and when these represent a consensus the community will treat these as the mostly likely version of events. This includes treating claimed ascents as invalid when this seems more likely than not.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#11 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 11:53:11 am
I'm a Cattellite which means I revere the prophet Danny C who brings glad tidings of The G. Danny teaches us that "believing in G is an act of faith. Believing in G enriches people's lives".

Can’t wait to tell the LittleCunt about all this if I ever speak to him again...
What happened?

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#12 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 12:18:51 pm
I'm a Cattellite which means I revere the prophet Danny C who brings glad tidings of The G. Danny teaches us that "believing in G is an act of faith. Believing in G enriches people's lives".

Can’t wait to tell the LittleCunt about all this if I ever speak to him again...
What happened?

I'm guessing a succession of three hour late arrivals to the crag threw Doyle over the edge....?!

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6
#13 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 12:20:59 pm
I think we should just drop it now as climbing has moved on an his problems are not the highest graded things in the country any more.

To my knowledge no one is going to put any effort into his hard stuff as its pretty shit so just leave them in the history books at the grade he gave them and they will become irrelevant when the grades have moved on another notch in 10 years. Only if he had stolen some future 4* classic lines from the next gen would it matter.

Bit like the is Hubble 8c+ or 9a thing, does not matter now we are climbing 9c.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#14 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 01:44:55 pm
I'm a Cattellite which means I revere the prophet Danny C who brings glad tidings of The G. Danny teaches us that "believing in G is an act of faith. Believing in G enriches people's lives".

Can’t wait to tell the LittleCunt about all this if I ever speak to him again...
What happened?

I'm guessing a succession of three hour late arrivals to the crag threw Doyle over the edge....?!
I was thinking just the same.

Will Hunt

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#15 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 01:58:48 pm
I'm a Cattellite which means I revere the prophet Danny C who brings glad tidings of The G. Danny teaches us that "believing in G is an act of faith. Believing in G enriches people's lives".

Can’t wait to tell the LittleCunt about all this if I ever speak to him again...
What happened?

I'm guessing a succession of three hour late arrivals to the crag threw Doyle over the edge....?!
I was thinking just the same.

He might have left his phone at a crag again?

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#16 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 03:11:33 pm
I'm a Cattellite which means I revere the prophet Danny C who brings glad tidings of The G. Danny teaches us that "believing in G is an act of faith. Believing in G enriches people's lives".

Can’t wait to tell the LittleCunt about all this if I ever speak to him again...
What happened?

I'm guessing a succession of three hour late arrivals to the crag threw Doyle over the edge....?!
I was thinking just the same.

He might have left his phone at a crag again?
Spoke to his old man, DrHowardCattell  :wub:. Said he’s at work.  I awoke 10 minutes later with some concerned passers standing over me trying  to bring me round.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#17 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 05:04:34 pm
Bit like the is Hubble 8c+ or 9a thing, does not matter now we are climbing 9c.

Of course it matters. Especially Hubble as it would be the first in the world.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#18 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 05:08:59 pm
If no grades under 9c matter the world might aswell leave Megos and Ondra to it .  :lets_do_it_wild:

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6
#19 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 05:16:07 pm
Bit like the is Hubble 8c+ or 9a thing, does not matter now we are climbing 9c.

Of course it matters. Especially Hubble as it would be the first in the world.

It really doesn't 

JamieG

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1278
  • Karma: +80/-0
#20 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 05:17:10 pm
That would be one strange looking love child! Mondra?

spidermonkey09

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2815
  • Karma: +159/-4
#21 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 08:31:21 pm
Bit like the is Hubble 8c+ or 9a thing, does not matter now we are climbing 9c.

Of course it matters. Especially Hubble as it would be the first in the world.

It really doesn't

History doesn't matter? What a half witted thing to suggest. Obviously it's not groundbreaking now but it was groundbreaking then. There's no logic at all to saying it's irrelevant because people piss that grade now. I might warm up on VDiff on a good day. but it still matters when Puttrell was first scratching up them.

Edit, it's so half witted I now wonder whether it's a wind-up, in which case I'm a sucker, apologies.

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6
#22 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 08:39:35 pm
It was a wind up.

But in the grand scheme of things what was the first 9a AD or Hubble isn’t important.
What was the 1st 8a or 7c or 7a. I have no idea.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#23 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 08:45:46 pm
It was a wind up.

But in the grand scheme of things what was the first 9a AD or Hubble isn’t important.
What was the 1st 8a or 7c or 7a. I have no idea.

8a - Grand Illusion
7c - Chasin the Train?
7a - dunno

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6
#24 Re: G again, first of grade etc
September 28, 2020, 09:08:49 pm
I did know the 8a one but like Hubble it may now be upgraded.

Think your about 5-6 years out  on the 7c.



 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal